Daily Driver Mod Thoughts

[nfancera]

I'm looking to start work on my '18 and wanted input on what kind of mods I should be thinking about. Not looking to race my car, drag or track, just want a bit more speed, a bit more noise, and a bit more fun going A to B.

I currently have a K&N Performance Air Intake System, Stoptech Slotted Cryo Rotors, and Hawk HPS 5.0 pads. Those are the only non-OE items I've installed.

I've considered upgrading the intake to a Cobb CAI, exhaust (catback probably), and Accessport tune. What does everyone think as far as just upping the fun factor?

 

[gtx3076]

The only mod I had done for 2 year was 93 and E30. And I mostly ran the E30 tune on stock plugs.

I did finally switch to a V3 whoosh intercooler, 7psi wastegate, step colders, and RMM. In retrospect I would have gone with the V1 intercooler, I lost some torque and response on the V3, and I'm thinking about putting the RMM back to stock. I get a lot of chronic buzzing from my cluster from the vibratech. The tune is the best bang for buck in my opinion.

 

[NOVA_Ranger]

Stock besides wheels, a Livernois 93 tune, and Whoosh intake here. Pretty happy with it as my fun commuter car after 10k miles.

 

[Stkid93]

In my limited experience here are the levels of mods for the fist

stage 1- this will get you to around 200-225 wheel horsepower and 280-320 wheel torque with amazing handling if you chose to do tires and suspension)

- at this stage you will most likely do a motor mount, tune(go e30 if you can trust me), intake/exhaust/wastegate upgrade are all optional as it’s pretty much understood that exhaust on the stock turbo doesn’t do anything but add noise, Intake is the same maybe adding 4 horsepower on stock turbo

-tires/suspension (will make a huge difference)

bigger intercooler (especially in warmer climates, keep in mind that you don’t want to end up buying 2 intercooler, so if there’s any chance you will upgrade down the road. Get an intercooler that’s bigger than you need right now. I ended up getting a whoosh v3, which is way overkill on a stock turbo. But if I upgrade to the whoosh hybrid one day like I want, I wont have to buy another intercooler)



stage 2 - hybrid turbo

On a stock fuel system this will get you around 300 wheel horsepower. 350 with aux fuel, but you shouldn’t need it. You should trap about 115-117 in the 1/4 mile. That’s faster than a 2024 performance pack mustang gt and about 4 mph faster than a 2024 nissan Z with its twin turbo v6. And your car should be reliable enough to go for 100,000 miles and not break down constantly. Make sure you change your oil, you have enough coolant, and you use good quality fuel (and you don’t run too lean)

This will be plenty fast for about 85% of people, I’m a world today with 1100 horsepower gtrs and 800 horsepower hellcat cherokees it’s really easy to look at 300 wheel horsepower and think it’s not that much.

But these cars with a full tank of gas, and spare tire and everything is 2700 lbs. 300 wheel is plenty. Don’t believe me? A hybrid turbo fist has a power to weight ratio of 7.7 lbs per horsepower. Thats the same power to weight as a track hawk.(they put down low 600s at the wheels) 700 horsepower is great sure, but people forget it’s moving around 5400 lbs. literally twice the weight of the fist.

more evidence? The power to weight is better than a bolt on 5.0 coyote as well.

Stage 3: big turbo

this isn’t for your every day driver. This is for people who want to turn their fist into half mile or standing mile legend or roll racing legend. I don’t think the average person can ever use 400 wheel horsepower in a 2700 lb car on the road, and if they try they will end up without a car cause it was crashed or impounded or broken, or dead.

 

[dhminer]

I drove my car for the first 70k miles with just an intake, cat back exhaust, intercooler, tune, RMM, and lowering springs. It was my DD then. Ran mountune’s mp215 tune which is phenomenal and had precisely zero unscheduled maintenance. Can’t recommend this route highly enough for a daily driver.

Also I ran the Cobb exhaust and it’s the best sounding one for our car, in my opinion. I wish I hadn’t sold it to a homie on here.

I wouldn’t swap the intake from your K&N unless you just don’t like how it looks or sounds. Until you start pushing way more power, the intake isn’t a limiting factor as long as you have an aftermarket intake of some sort or drill holes in your stock air box and use a high flow filter.

 

[dhminer]

In my limited experience here are the levels of mods for the fist

stage 1- this will get you to around 200-225 wheel horsepower and 280-320 wheel torque with amazing handling if you chose to do tires and suspension)

- at this stage you will most likely do a motor mount, tune(go e30 if you can trust me), intake/exhaust/wastegate upgrade are all optional as it’s pretty much understood that exhaust on the stock turbo doesn’t do anything but add noise, Intake is the same maybe adding 4 horsepower on stock turbo

-tires/suspension (will make a huge difference)

bigger intercooler (especially in warmer climates, keep in mind that you don’t want to end up buying 2 intercooler, so if there’s any chance you will upgrade down the road. Get an intercooler that’s bigger than you need right now. I ended up getting a whoosh v3, which is way overkill on a stock turbo. But if I upgrade to the whoosh hybrid one day like I want, I wont have to buy another intercooler)



stage 2 - hybrid turbo

On a stock fuel system this will get you around 300 wheel horsepower. 350 with aux fuel, but you shouldn’t need it. You should trap about 115-117 in the 1/4 mile. That’s faster than a 2024 performance pack mustang gt and about 4 mph faster than a 2024 nissan Z with its twin turbo v6. And your car should be reliable enough to go for 100,000 miles and not break down constantly. Make sure you change your oil, you have enough coolant, and you use good quality fuel (and you don’t run too lean)

This will be plenty fast for about 85% of people, I’m a world today with 1100 horsepower gtrs and 800 horsepower hellcat cherokees it’s really easy to look at 300 wheel horsepower and think it’s not that much.

But these cars with a full tank of gas, and spare tire and everything is 2700 lbs. 300 wheel is plenty. Don’t believe me? A hybrid turbo fist has a power to weight ratio of 7.7 lbs per horsepower. Thats the same power to weight as a track hawk.(they put down low 600s at the wheels) 700 horsepower is great sure, but people forget it’s moving around 5400 lbs. literally twice the weight of the fist.

more evidence? The power to weight is better than a bolt on 5.0 coyote as well.

Stage 3: big turbo

this isn’t for your every day driver. This is for people who want to turn their fist into half mile or standing mile legend or roll racing legend. I don’t think the average person can ever use 400 wheel horsepower in a 2700 lb car on the road, and if they try they will end up without a car cause it was crashed or impounded or broken, or dead.

As much as I like to give you shit… this is a well thought out post sir.

 

[Stkid93]

@dhminer

yesssss! Wait…. Why do you like to give me shit lol.

it’s all fun and games man. Most of the time I probably deserve the shit. I’m modest enough to admit I’m new to the platform and I’m not always right. I also post some redundant stuff from time to time.

 

[dhminer]

@dhminer

yesssss! Wait…. Why do you like to give me shit lol.

it’s all fun and games man. Most of the time I probably deserve the shit. I’m modest enough to admit I’m new to the platform and I’m not always right. I also post some redundant stuff from time to time.

Mostly because I’m a grumpy bastard lol

 

[gtx3076]

I’m not a fan of “stages”. E30 full stock is what stage? Dizzy custom tuned me for 93 and E30 completely stock even though it’s generally not recommended. I was hitting over 300wtq.

I also disagree on the V3. Someone else ran a V1 on their s280 and it sounded like it was just fine. The V3 is not a perfect fit, it leaves a tolerable gap between the front and hood, and I snugged everything up as much as it would go. Tune+ also confirmed what I saw which was a loss of torque on the V3. I’m down 10-20 wtq, compared to the stock intercooler and crossover pipe. I have not ruled out swapping the V3 for a V1.

 

[Stkid93]

@gtx3076

I don’t know how big the depo front mount intercooler is compared to the v3. But dizzy did a Dyno test before and after he added the depo front mount. He ended up losing about 7 ft lbs of torque peak. And about the same under the cover. But his horsepower went up from 208 to 229. I assume this is from the computer not having to pull timing and boost like it would with the stockintercooler.

but yes even with the depo he lost some torque. I did notice that I lost a little torque with the v3. But, it keeps my charge temps much lower, which makes my car much happier. So I’ll take the trade off. Especially if I get another 20 horsepower on the top end.

With the stock intercooler I have datalogs where the ambient temp was 35 ish degrees. And by the end of a single third gear pull. My charge temps rose rose from 40 degrees to 80. And like I said that was a single 3rd gear pull. I never bothered shifting into 4th and seeing how high the temps got. Or testing repeated pulls.

But if we assume the charge temps rise the same amount in the summer. On a 90 degree day the charge temps would get up to 130 degreees possibly even more. At that temperature i assume the computer is doing all it can to save the motor by pulling tons of power. It can cause breaking up, limp mode, all sorts of issues.

with my v3, my charge temps are about 3-5 degrees above ambient cruising and once I start a pull then fall to right around ambient. So me personally, I will take a 10 ft lb loss on torque for 40+ degree difference in charge temps.

 

[pixelzombie]

I'm looking to start work on my '18 and wanted input on what kind of mods I should be thinking about. Not looking to race my car, drag or track, just want a bit more speed, a bit more noise, and a bit more fun going A to B.

I currently have a K&N Performance Air Intake System, Stoptech Slotted Cryo Rotors, and Hawk HPS 5.0 pads. Those are the only non-OE items I've installed.

I've considered upgrading the intake to a Cobb CAI, exhaust (catback probably), and Accessport tune. What does everyone think as far as just upping the fun factor?

Highly recommend the Stage 1 mods from Cobb, the rear motor mount and the front traction bar. I've been using the Raceland coillovers since summer and they have really improved the handling.

 

[Dpro]

I’m not a fan of “stages”. E30 full stock is what stage? Dizzy custom tuned me for 93 and E30 completely stock even though it’s generally not recommended. I was hitting over 300wtq.

I also disagree on the V3. Someone else ran a V1 on their s280 and it sounded like it was just fine. The V3 is not a perfect fit, it leaves a tolerable gap between the front and hood, and I snugged everything up as much as it would go. Tune+ also confirmed what I saw which was a loss of torque on the V3. I’m down 10-20 wtq, compared to the stock intercooler and crossover pipe. I have not ruled out swapping the V3 for a V1.

This is interesting as I am running a Mountune Bar and plate on my s280 and making great power I have found it runs about 5 degrees over ambient . I have a CPE delta core which is the same size as the Whoosh except it’s got the airflow fins in the end tanks which make it more efficient. I was going to put it in my buddy Danny runs a Whoosh V2 which was dead copy of the CPE hence why it is no longer sold. On his S242 vs his old Mountune tube and fiin and he did not notice any torque loss going to the bigger intercooler. I think I might have to contact him to see if I am going to see a TQ loss by switching.

 

[akiraproject24]

I'm looking to start work on my '18 and wanted input on what kind of mods I should be thinking about. Not looking to race my car, drag or track, just want a bit more speed, a bit more noise, and a bit more fun going A to B.

I currently have a K&N Performance Air Intake System, Stoptech Slotted Cryo Rotors, and Hawk HPS 5.0 pads. Those are the only non-OE items I've installed.

I've considered upgrading the intake to a Cobb CAI, exhaust (catback probably), and Accessport tune. What does everyone think as far as just upping the fun factor?

Grab an accessport, upgraded intercooler, RMM and shortshifter.

 

[nfancera]

300 wheel is plenty. Don’t believe me? A hybrid turbo fist has a power to weight ratio of 7.7 lbs per horsepower. Thats the same power to weight as a track hawk.(they put down low 600s at the wheels) 700 horsepower is great sure, but people forget it’s moving around 5400 lbs. literally twice the weight of the fist.

I'm with you on this. I've driven some powerful cars and honestly, the experience is not for me. I much prefer to feel connected to the car, be able to throw it around, and not worry about outdriving the suspension to just crazy power.

I appreciate all the feedback and it looks like everyone agrees on, at least, a tune, RMM, and intercooler. I'm not planning to ever do any fuel mods and currently run Michelin Pilot Sport A/S so I'm sorted on the tires for now.

Cobb has a bundle that includes the Accessport, RMM, Intercooler, and Intake. For the price, the intake is basically a throw in: https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/stage-package/ford-stage-2-power-package-fiesta-st-2014-2019.

Would this be worthwhile as a bundle or am I better off piecing together from various companies?

 

[gtx3076]

@gtx3076

I don’t know how big the depo front mount intercooler is compared to the v3. But dizzy did a Dyno test before and after he added the depo front mount. He ended up losing about 7 ft lbs of torque peak. And about the same under the cover. But his horsepower went up from 208 to 229. I assume this is from the computer not having to pull timing and boost like it would with the stockintercooler.

but yes even with the depo he lost some torque. I did notice that I lost a little torque with the v3. But, it keeps my charge temps much lower, which makes my car much happier. So I’ll take the trade off. Especially if I get another 20 horsepower on the top end.

With the stock intercooler I have datalogs where the ambient temp was 35 ish degrees. And by the end of a single third gear pull. My charge temps rose rose from 40 degrees to 80. And like I said that was a single 3rd gear pull. I never bothered shifting into 4th and seeing how high the temps got. Or testing repeated pulls.

But if we assume the charge temps rise the same amount in the summer. On a 90 degree day the charge temps would get up to 130 degreees possibly even more. At that temperature i assume the computer is doing all it can to save the motor by pulling tons of power. It can cause breaking up, limp mode, all sorts of issues.

with my v3, my charge temps are about 3-5 degrees above ambient cruising and once I start a pull then fall to right around ambient. So me personally, I will take a 10 ft lb loss on torque for 40+ degree difference in charge temps.

Nonsense. I live in Texas, 113* is not abnormal for summer and the car never went into limp mode on E30 or 93 on the stock intercooler and I did not baby the car commuting 70 miles a day.

 

[Stkid93]

@gtx3076

Honestly that’s surprising given our cars issue with overheating in stock form. Even if we forget about limp mode and such. I’m sure you lost a ton of power in 113 degree weather with the stock intercooler. The car probably felt dead like you wer driving in super high elevation right?

 

[gtx3076]

@gtx3076

Honestly that’s surprising given our cars issue with overheating in stock form. Even if we forget about limp mode and such. I’m sure you lost a ton of power in 113 degree weather with the stock intercooler. The car probably felt dead like you wer driving in super high elevation right?

Of course the car won't make as much power in hot weather, even with a better intercooler it's still over 110 degrees. My point was the car is not on a knife's edge because it's hot outside. It's not "doing everything it can" to prevent grenading the motor, and it should not be going into limp mode unless there is an issue that needs to be addressed.

It's hot, air is less dense, you and everyone else on the road will be making less power unless they're running something like meth. It's not like the car cant get out of it's own way. I owned a 2.3 97 Ford Ranger, it was slow no matter how hot or cold outside it was.

 

[dhminer]

I'm with you on this. I've driven some powerful cars and honestly, the experience is not for me. I much prefer to feel connected to the car, be able to throw it around, and not worry about outdriving the suspension to just crazy power.

I appreciate all the feedback and it looks like everyone agrees on, at least, a tune, RMM, and intercooler. I'm not planning to ever do any fuel mods and currently run Michelin Pilot Sport A/S so I'm sorted on the tires for now.

Cobb has a bundle that includes the Accessport, RMM, Intercooler, and Intake. For the price, the intake is basically a throw in: https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/stage-package/ford-stage-2-power-package-fiesta-st-2014-2019.

Would this be worthwhile as a bundle or am I better off piecing together from various companies?

Cobb’s intercooler isn’t the greatest, but definitely a huge improvement from stock. Their RMM, from what I understand, is one of the softer ones of the aftermarket which again isn’t a bad thing as it’s a huge improvement from stock. Their intake however is top notch. I’d pull the trigger on it without hesitation unless you could piece together a CP-E intercooler combo for close to the same price.

 

[Stkid93]

I have always seen Mountune and Cobb as oem+, they are a very respected tuner companies with a great reputation and they don’t want to do anything to jeopardize that.

They turn things up a bit but try to keep as much oem feel as possible. Their off the shelf tunes are a great example. They turn boost up a little, add a little timing, play with the fuel a little. But everything is kept super safe. They are trying to keep the tune as factory as possible while giving you a little extra.

So I assume this mentality transfers to other parts such as intercoolers and motor mounts. They don’t want someone buying a Cobb motor mount and getting pissed because the NVH is so bad. So they keep it mild. Imagine if Cobb tunes were blowing up engines left and right and their motor mounts were rattling the shit out of cars and their springs were so rough people immediately got rid of them. They would go out of business real quick.

So yes, you can find parts that will take things up a notch compared to Cobb. But the fact that they have stayed in business so long, and make parts for dozens of different platforms while retaining their great reputation says a lot.

 

[Gone in 60]

I'm in California, so emissions is a factor. I've got a Cobb Stage 2 kit that's CARB legal (Rear motor mount, cold air, intercooler, charge pipes, 91 octane tune). I have a Borla cat back that's not obnoxious, but gives a little growl (It's actually an old NOS "Ford Racing by Borla" catback that I stumbled on). EBC rotors and grippy pads, and a rear sway bar. Currently running Firehawk 500 tires.

This setup is more than enough for me as a daily driver. Enough power to point-and-shoot in traffic, stops and corners like a gokart, and isn't unpleasant for sound on long drives.

Plus, when our gas prices go stupid, I can knock the tune down to "economy" with the cruise buttons and run 87 and drive like a granny.