What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

[Sam4]

Towed it home from the Tennessee border because my alternator died 4 hours away from home and no auto parts stores in the mountains carry in on the store. Between renting a U-Haul truck and trailer and buying the new alternator this is going to be an $800 alternator job.
First time towing my car, everything went fairly smoothly although the fiesta being lowered made it a pain to get on the trailer.
View attachment 59237

I hate to say that sounds cheap....good luck!

 

[felopr]

I've had all 3 styles now* The Whoosh version...The Mountune version and now the Boomba shifter assembly. Out of all 3 the Boomba is the best IMO. The install wasn't too hard but if i ever wanna revert to stock it'll be easier. The Mountune is the best out of all the adapters though and the most smooth operating by far.

isnt the boomba and the whoosh technically the same?

 

[FiestaSTdude]

I hate to say that sounds cheap....good luck!

Alternator is in and the car is maintaining 14.5 volts. I used an ultima reman alternator because that’s the only one O’Reillys had and I didn’t feel like waiting for a rock auto one to come. Since neither one of my XJs are drivable at the moment I kinda need the fiesta.

 

[Dialcaliper]

One other point is, how many nearly 400HP engines are running a belt instead of a chain? You did great to get what you did out of it; even though you've only been running 250-400HP relatively recently.

Not sure I follow the logic - nearly every Evo except the last, Subaru and pretty much every car except Honda K-series and the Germans up to about 10-15 years ago ran a timing belt and are regularly tuned to >400whp with 16 valve heads with far more abuse than our engines see. Even high revving engines like the S2000 used them

The three things that kill timing belts are heat, oil leaks and fatigue of the fibers due to the cycling load from repeated valve actuation - what you do with the throttle, and any sort of “jerking” doesn’t play into it - the valve train sees the same forces at a given RPM no matter how much power the engine puts out at the crank, as the primary resistance comes from valve springs and valve inertia.

That said, higher RPM puts more stress faster. Turbo engines like the Ecoboost that use low valve lift with higher torque at low RPM stress the belt a lot less than higher RPM tuned engines, combined with better thermal protection for the belt, which is how Ford gets away with 160k miles on a timing belt.(3000RPM peak torque and 6250 RPM stock redline is on the average to low side for a 4-cylinder). Belts are much cheaper than chains for an OEM, mostly due to the fact that chains require a sealed chamber with lubrication.

Raising the rev limiter with a tune and operating more frequently at high RPM (which also cooncide with tunes turbo upgrades) do stress the belt more and looking at a 100k mile belt change is not a bad idea if you do flog the engine a lot.

But honestly the increased stress there is nothing compared to what happens when you start increasing the stresses upgrading valve springs and cams which is less common on DI engines just due to fueling constraints. But other platforms with belts and older highly tuned engines due tend to replace belts more frequently than recommended, but that’s mostly due to the fact that most engines then were designed around a 60k mile belt change interval, and rewritten to 100k when California started requiring it by law (of course with a “check” at 60k miles in the maintainance schedule)

Of course older belt engines tuned to the moon for racing tend to replace them even more often, but there’s not really any standard interval that anyone can give you.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

isnt the boomba and the whoosh technically the same?

BOOMBA does make one like Whoosh's. I'm talking about the Entire short shifter assembly they make not the adapter.

 

[tri-pedaler]

Changed the oil and filter - FL400S. Out of curiosity, what volume do others run with the larger filter? This is my second time using it, and I filled up to 4.2 liters/4.5 qts. Dipstick is impossible to read as always, but seems to be in the right range.

also put the winter tires on - bring on the ❄️

 

[Intuit]

Changed the oil and filter - FL400S. Out of curiosity, what volume do others run with the larger filter? This is my second time using it, and I filled up to 4.2 liters/4.5 qts. Dipstick is impossible to read as always, but seems to be in the right range.

also put the winter tires on - bring on the ❄️

Interesting factoid. The FL400S was the stock filter for my 1.9L SOHC 88HP engine from the early 1990s Ford Escort.

The 1.9L SOHC read timing from the teeth on the harmonic balancer which is a pulley attached to the crankshaft. I did "best effort"** for torque on that bolt. It later backed off, allowing the crankshaft key to gradually widen the groove in the pulley. This dynamically altered timing; pulley rocking back/forth. Needed a little help with open loop operation but that engine was a totally different animal under closed loop.


**At the time I didn't have an air tool and the strap wrench wouldn't hold the required torque; didn't have anyone to step on the brake while in gear

 

[akiraproject24]

Changed the oil and filter - FL400S. Out of curiosity, what volume do others run with the larger filter? This is my second time using it, and I filled up to 4.2 liters/4.5 qts. Dipstick is impossible to read as always, but seems to be in the right range.

also put the winter tires on - bring on the ❄️

I normally put in the 4.2. Start it, check for leaks, lower it. Wait an hour or so then check it again...usually I end up just dropping in a few more splashes to creep it closer to the top and call it good. Its not much more.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Out of curiosity, what volume do others run with the larger filter? This is my second time using it, and I filled up to 4.2 liters/4.5 qts.

I generally slightly overfill mine to 4.5 liters (or even a tiny bit more), since I use the even bigger yet than the FL400S, Fram ULTRA (NOT their 'orange can of death'! ) 3600 filters, and if possible, I usually let it drain for HOURS, until there is not even a slow drip from the sump pan.

 

[benkats]

View attachment 59206 View attachment 59206 View attachment 59207 View attachment 59208
New continental DWs 205/45/17

Have you experienced any rubbing with the 205/45/17?

 

[gtx3076]

Have you experienced any rubbing with the 205/45/17?

A little on the driver side rear. Looks like there’s a bit of slack in the felt-like panel.

 

[benkats]

View attachment 59292
A little on the driver side rear. Looks like there’s a bit of slack in the felt-like panel.

Doesn't look very bad at all. Good to know, thanks for the response.

 

[SteveS]

Even though it was 54 degrees out today and we have temps as high as upper 60s forecast the rest of the week I swapped the Indy 500s for the snow tires today. There's rain forecast next weekend and we start having Christmas parties and stuff to go to every weekend so I didn't want to get caught having to do it in the dark after work because a cold front is coming. But it's done and the TPMS trained just fine so all is good.

 

[Dialcaliper]

View attachment 59292
A little on the driver side rear. Looks like there’s a bit of slack in the felt-like panel.

As you mentioned, looks like the felt is sagging. Next time you have the wheel off it’s worth taking a look if one of the push fasteners holding the felt on is loose or missing

 

[foodtruck]

As you mentioned, looks like the felt is sagging. Next time you have the wheel off it’s worth taking a look if one of the push fasteners holding the felt on is loose or missing

I noticed the same issue on mine and all of the fasteners are securely in. Seems like a design deficiency.

 

[the duke]

Sold 🥲

Been fun Bros. Bought a house, need upgrades. I’m confident I’ll regret it, but after a Japanese’s super-tech STI, a definitive European Hot Hatch, I’m looking for an American Muscle car (HEMI!)

No worries. A friend bought it, I still get to see it 👍

 

[Bull Run]

This is an update to the passenger seat occupancy sensor part 1 from other day.

Ecosport's occupancy classification sensor looks physically identical to Fiesta's with only difference being the part number on the label. However, plugging it in and turning the car on results in RCM throwing "Incorrect Component Installed", followed by OCSM throwing "Lost Communication with ECM/PCM A" error.


As a follow on test, I moved the bag from Ecosport's sensor to Fiesta's and did not end up with any low fluid errors. For the next step, I connected passenger seatbelt to its buckle to simulate someone occupying the passenger seat. "PASS AIRBAG OFF" light came on with nothing or a light object on the bag. Light turned off when I set on the bag, so it appears that Ecosport bag works fine with Fiesta's OCSM.


I installed the bag bottom of a Corbeau Forza seat. Sides fit snugly, so I only needed a couple of zip ties to prevent it from moving forward or backward. I ran the above test again after installing the seat and it still worked as expected. Cost of both used Fiesta OCSM and used Ecosport OCSM + Bag end up being about half of a new Fiesta OCSM + Bag, so I'm still happy with the result.

 

[Roboticrocket]

Finally installed my AWR 70 durometer PMM. Goodbye passenger shift sounds. Shifting feel once again has improved to where I would recommend this upgrade to anyone. NVH increase is minimal. AWR makes great products; I’d recommend them to anyone.
Install was pretty easy apart from fitment since I was doing this myself.
Still waiting on an ITG filter from Whoosh, postal service once again living up to it’s reputation.
I realized with my plugs from Whoosh I stopped getting so much negative correction- I now bet the old NGK plugs I bought on Amazon were counterfeits. Lesson learned!

 

[Intuit]

I noticed the same issue on mine and all of the fasteners are securely in. Seems like a design deficiency.

One that just happens to sell liners. I thought the dealership did this after "service" but was apparently coincidence. Rubbed through, replaced mine earlier this year as it helps limit road-salt exposure for the strut tower structures. I think this would've happened with stock size too; not just the Continental 215/45R17 I've been running through the Winters.

 

[pixelzombie]

Finally installed my AWR 70 durometer PMM. Goodbye passenger shift sounds. Shifting feel once again has improved to where I would recommend this upgrade to anyone. NVH increase is minimal. AWR makes great products; I’d recommend them to anyone.
Install was pretty easy apart from fitment since I was doing this myself.
Still waiting on an ITG filter from Whoosh, postal service once again living up to it’s reputation.
I realized with my plugs from Whoosh I stopped getting so much negative correction- I now bet the old NGK plugs I bought on Amazon were counterfeits. Lesson learned!

Which RMM are you using?