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Light Weight Wheels and why, add yours to the list, read the requirements first

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RAAMaudio

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Konig, parent company of Advanti, is making some damn fine wheels that are nearly as strong as forged wheels, great looking, great sizes for those that can use them, great prices, they are ahead of the game on every other manf right now.. I just like to make sure new people find out about the great things they are doing and learn about the huge differences in lower weight wheels and where to get the best deals.

I built up a very quick Forester XT, fast enough I passed a full race STI on track and the head instructor came down from the tower and walked the 1/2 mile just to check out the car, said he was shocked at how fast it was. I do not plan to put $30k into the Toyota like I did on the FXT, we need room for our dogs and something reasonably fun to drive for site seeing, errands and go see the grand kids on the other side of the Sierras in bad weather. I have already tested one a few years back and was shocked at how competent it was stock but it will never be anywhere near the FXT of course which was not as fast as my FiST is now and far more expensive to mod, got rid of it because I did not want to put another $20k into making more power and driving a grenade as those engines just are not that strong.

The FXT had 18x9.5 Enkei NT-03 flow formed wheels for the track with R888 slicks and an 18x10.5 set with 305 V710s for autocross as well as 17x9 Rays forged wheels(bought used for half price) for the street on Ultra high performance all seasons. They all fit nicely over the Stoptech BBKs.

I have had everything from 19" custom 3 piece Iforge Vette wheels, custom monoblock big wheels to dirt cheap aftermarket wheels depending on budget and the project and many many sets of Enkei flow formed wheels (MAT) and am so dang glad to see others bring out more wheels like this as they are by far the best value ever in high quality low weight wheels.

If this was 5 years or so ago I would invest the tens of thousands of dollars to get 16x8, flow formed, 4x108 wheels made for this car just so others could get them but I have been retired for close to 4 years and not going back into the automotive business though I still own one I do little with how it runs.
 


BronxBomber

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Hey I have a Saturn Vue with the 3.5L Honda V6 and Trans. It's my 4th vehicle we use it on the weekends or to commute at times. I'm getting some wheels and believe me I am looking for the nicest, lightest wheels I can afford. I've drive with heavy wheels before, and it makes a very noticeable difference. On any car lighter is better, but to each his own.
 


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I went with 6ULs in 17x8. I wanted to stay on a 17" wheel because I didn't want to shorten the gearing or go with a higher profile tire, I have the Wilwood BBK, and I like the look of a 17" wheel on the FiST. Without spending BIG money the 6ULs are the lightest 17x8 that I could find and have a great reputation. I did the 4x100 conversion instead of waiting for the FSWERKS 4x108 version because I'm toying with the idea of giving the 17x9 6ULs a shot for a set of A/C wheels.
Wow! Those look great!!! I can't wait for them to be available in 4x108[emoji1360]


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M-Sport fan

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I ended up finding a set of the TR motorsports wheels second hand for dirt cheap, swapped on the stock Bridgestones to finish them off this summer. Plan to move to a 205/45 for ride comfort reasons when the time comes. I was surprised how light they were for a cast wheel.

Specs: 17x7 +42, low pressure cast/flow formed. 14.7lbs each.

It's a cryin' shame they don't make those in a 17x8, or a 16x8 in our PCD/offsets![bigcry]
 


LILIKE16ST

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It's a cryin' shame they don't make those in a 17x8, or a 16x8 in our PCD/offsets![bigcry]
I agree those are nice wheels and even in the 17 they are a tad lighter than my 15x8 TD PR 1.2 wheels but I still like the TD better because I personally like the smaller wheel taller sidewall look on this car makes it look aggressive and I also dig having a wheel that is a full inch wider at around the same weight. I like that the 15 inch tires with 1 inch taller sidewalls ride much better and they're also significantly cheaper when comparing the same tires between 15s and 17s. I'd rather have a 15x8 wheel around 15 lbs each than a 17x7 wheel around the same weight for the reasons I just mentioned. For those wanting to stick with a 17 inch wheel and do not care about having a wheel wider than stock these are hard to beat and they look nice too....
 


M-Sport fan

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^^^True, but for those wanting a 16 or 17 with an 8" width, those would be a VERY light option, and still look really good (to me at least, much better than the 6ULs), and be killer with either a 215/45-16 Kumho XS, or Rival S on them or a 215/40-17 Dunlop Direzza SS2 on the 17s.

Ultimately I STILL like the looks of the Pro Race 1.2s over these wheels above, but never hear the end of it over their (albeit still much lighter than factory) 'heft'.[dictate]
 


BronxBomber

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Everyone's got their own personal preference. A likes little wheels with chunky tires, B likes 17" wheels as wide a tire as he can fit, C likes the stock size so he can run in whatever class of autocross, yada yada yada ad nauseum. We all have our own taste. I fall in the prefer 17" with a wide low profile tire. 17x8" 215/40/17 tire or even a 205/45/16 if I were to go smaller. 16" is probably the smalles wheel I would want to run because I'm not a fan of the little wheel look. But again, that's me to each his own.[shakehands]
 


Quisp

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Axis sport XT BFG sport comp 2Size:
17x7
Offset:
42mm
Backspacing:
5.63"
Bolt Pattern:
4-108
Rec. Tire Size:
205/40-17
Weight:
17.0 lbs.
 


neeqness

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I agree those are nice wheels and even in the 17 they are a tad lighter than my 15x8 TD PR 1.2 wheels but I still like the TD better because I personally like the smaller wheel taller sidewall look on this car makes it look aggressive and I also dig having a wheel that is a full inch wider at around the same weight. I like that the 15 inch tires with 1 inch taller sidewalls ride much better and they're also significantly cheaper when comparing the same tires between 15s and 17s. I'd rather have a 15x8 wheel around 15 lbs each than a 17x7 wheel around the same weight for the reasons I just mentioned. For those wanting to stick with a 17 inch wheel and do not care about having a wheel wider than stock these are hard to beat and they look nice too....
Were your TD PR wheels 4x108?

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HardBoiledEgg

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This is a dead thread. I read through all 28 pages and still didn't find a nice 15 inch wheel smh


Any idea on how 16x8 plus 38 fits with a 215 45 16?


Really debating the RPF1 in 4x100 and re drilling for street and track use. I want NT03 but they don't come in 16s
 


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RAAMaudio

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Thread Starter #273
Do the not very costly DIY 4x100 mod or spend a bit more and have it done then buy something like 11.4 lb flow formed 6UL, 15x8 +35mm. You can do this for less than the cost of one set of forged wheels and flow formed are nearly as strong, more than strong enough to race on let alone street driving. Then if you get more serious there are 15x9, 10 and 11" versions or quite a few 15x9 in other wheels for very good prices.
 


HardBoiledEgg

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It comes to looks and performance. I'd loose some performance for 16s. The 15s on this car look way too funny


And I just bought my car, I'm not really into drilling rotors and hubs. Much rather redrill a set of 4x100 wheels. Cheap, and not doing anything I don't want to me car.


Nobody seems to redrill or run 16s anywhere online. I'm guessing that's cause tire choices? I want to run RPF1 for cost, color and strength. A re drill is plenty safe and cheap
 


M-Sport fan

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This is a dead thread. I read through all 28 pages and still didn't find a nice 15 inch wheel smh


Any idea on how 16x8 plus 38 fits with a 215 45 16?


Really debating the RPF1 in 4x100 and re drilling for street and track use. I want NT03 but they don't come in 16s
Are the NT03s even made in a 4 bolt pattern in any PCD?
I also think that is the sweetest looking wheel made by Enkei. [thumb]
 


HardBoiledEgg

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No the NT03 is not. But man I wish. I've wanted that wheel on three different cars lol


It's always two big or two small smh
 


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RAAMaudio

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Thread Starter #277
Redrilling wheels is not an option in many cases as the design of the mounting area is cast with weight reduction steps meaning no place to redrill in. I have seen wheels filled then redrilled but welding into aluminum can add serious degradation in the strength due to several issues unless very very carefully done including controlling heating, cooling, etc.....Some wheels can be just drilled but not many of the modern light wheel wheels.

Then you run into spare wheel issues, having one or two more done at the same time is a smart move.

I have had many RPF1 wheels and loved them but they are not the strongest flow formed wheel, great but not the best, never where.

NTO3 is one of my all time favorite wheels, I ran 18x9.5 for track wheels, 18x10.15 for autocross and had a used but mint set of Rays in 17x9 for the street, all for a highly modded 07 Forester XT that was quit fun and shockingly quick, stock fenders, not even rolled:) Of course the car was only lowered enough to maintain proper suspension geometry which means not that low as in most cars setup correctly.

The NTO3 is made in very limited sizes, do not recall seeing 16's or 15's but it is possible with how long they have been around to have been made in those diameters and even bolt pattern. If one found a set that would be cool but spares would be impossible to find unless really lucky. Having had custom made wheels or really rare and expensive or even cheaper wheels and having to replace one can end up being a very expensive proposition up to buying different wheels if none are around.

I have had dozens of modded cars and trucks and hundreds of sets of wheels and tires over the last 49 years but still have to do my research and learn new things all the time but have doing wheels swaps pretty well figured out.

Redrilling hubs so you can buy high quality low cost flow formed wheels that fit, spares easy to get, etc....just works the best for this car, why I did mine which was the first one done 3+ years ago with 293 miles on the car:)

Once done you can drill new rotors with simple tools, drill, bit, etc, they do not need to be done at a machine shop, etc because rotors are hub centric and have oversized holes for the studs.

I too would of loved 16" wheels for this car and actually bought some 16x8, +35, 4x100 RPF1's but when I figured out a way to redesign the DIY BBK to bring the calipers in just a bit more I could fit 15x8 6ULs on the car. I have had around 30 wheels for this car alone, mostly in 15x9 with Rival S in 225 or RA1 track tires.

Ford should of built this car with a 4x100, 5x100, 5x114.3, etc bolt pattern instead of the very limiting 4x108, one of the few things that sucks about this car, that and the NAV is pure crap but I had to get it with the sunroof I had to have for airflow for our two 100lb dogs, if not for them no sunroof(I have removed them from cars more than once including replacing the whole roof one a brand new car).

Sometimes it may seem I am a "know it all" but I just have done most every real performance mod known to man for a very long time now and just want to help others as much as I can, really:):)

Rick
 


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M-Sport fan

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No the NT03 is not. But man I wish. I've wanted that wheel on three different cars lol
Same here, as they WERE eventually going to find their way onto my 4th gen LS1 Z28 IF I had been able to keep that car (Enkei actually made the exact GM, 5x120.65 bolt pattern in the NT03s, I'm guessing for y-body [Vette] fitment [:)]).
 


HardBoiledEgg

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Well you killed my dreams Raam lol I just don't want to drill into a brand new car. I don't even have 300 miles on it yet. Wheels are way down the line. I really really like this car on Rota Reece but I will not daily or track a Rota lol

I'm going to PM you right now about other stuff not for this thread. But yeah I guess 4x100 mod is down the line smh
 


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RAAMaudio

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Sorry buddy, not my intention but I have a different attitude about cars than most, they are a pallet to play around with, 293 miles on my car when it went on the lift and only 5 of them by me. 8 months later it was very highly modded, 10 times more than planned, it is my last major project as now full time RVing and it is for sale as just does not fit our needs, I will miss it greatly of course!

One thing nice about the 4x100 mod is how easy it is to go back to 4x108 if needed, just pop out the studs and move them back, pull them back in with an impact gun, done:)
 


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