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Trader history for ron@whoosh (1)

Alkoran

Alkoran

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#722
Alkoran said:
No, and yes.

The centering pieces won't fit inside the pierce bolting cups. What you'll have to do is make some spacer to get the chambered center, which normaly is used for the bolt big washer, flush to the outer edge. Then the pierce bolting cups will sit flat on those spacers/edge. If you try to bolt the bar without some spacers, you won't have a good strong mating surface between the centering kit and the bar cups.
View attachment 55805
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I think I spoke too soon. I just realized that the front cups of the bar that are fastened with the lower control arm bolt will be offset down by the thickness of the centering piece (so approx, 3/8") and I don't think there's enough room to offset the bolt in the cup as it's also a flanged bolt. My bad if someone bought a kit thinking this could fit together without issue.
 


akiraproject24

akiraproject24

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#729
I am guessing that this is the next step for guys who have already done injectors and high pressure pump?
 


dhminer

dhminer

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#730
akiraproject24 said:
I am guessing that this is the next step for guys who have already done injectors and high pressure pump?
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Or aux fuel. Basically if you want to run E85 straight from the pump (on a bigger turbo), you should get one of these.
 


akiraproject24

akiraproject24

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#736
gtx3076 said:
Any benefit of these over stock?
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cant speak to the metal composition but generally the anti corrosion coatings keep the non braking surfaces from rusting and looking like crap. I ran some zinc coated rotors a while back on another car and it did stop or at least severely slow rust forming on the areas the pads dont wipe clean
 


Dialcaliper

Dialcaliper

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#740
akiraproject24 said:
cant speak to the metal composition but generally the anti corrosion coatings keep the non braking surfaces from rusting and looking like crap. I ran some zinc coated rotors a while back on another car and it did stop or at least severely slow rust forming on the areas the pads dont wipe clean
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Mostly cosmetic to prevent rust buildup (which doesn’t hurt function unless you’ve got extreme road salt in your area). The metal is usually similar to other “high carbon” cast iron rotors.

One note is that coated rotors used in aggressive track situations (high temp, track pads), the coating can “craze” or develop what looks like spider-web fractures in the coating. This is not really a problem unless the coating actually starts coming off. But it can make it more difficult to spot an actual crack in the rotor in the unlikely situation that actually happens.
 


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