Really Should Stop Modifying my Daily Driver into a Track Car

[Dialcaliper]

I’d be down for a kit as well when you get them made

 

[Jabbit]

Next week? Have to make a new set of bushings and get more bolts.
Has your beam shifted before?

It's nearing 100k miles and has seen decent track time. Never checked to see if the beam actually shifted.

 

[Fusion Works]

Check your beam and see if its shifted. (just another data point to see if these are really necessary or if its a small population of owners that see this issue.)

 

[Erick_V]

Also interested

 

[Jabbit]

Check your beam and see if its shifted. (just another data point to see if these are really necessary or if its a small population of owners that see this issue.)

How do you propose I do that? Is there a baseline measurement I can compare to?

 

[Fusion Works]

Take it to an alignment shop. They will measure the thrust angle. If there is a toe angle across the two rear wheels that is opposite of each other, your axle isn’t straight.

I have a set going out to a Fiesta track guy Monday. He is gonna take his car to the alignment shop and have his guy install them while the car is on the rack. I hope the shop owner will call me while he is installing the parts and monitoring the alignment. Be interesting to see how accurate the bolt holes are in relation to proper thrust angle.

 

[Fusion Works]

Finally got the hardware for my rear beam closeout panel. I think this turned out pretty nice for my first time forming this plastic material. Its got a nice rounded nose on the leading edge and I turned up the back edge to help fair that air smoothly off the panel. Kinda sucks now I won't have my central jack point at the rear of the car now though.

 

[WannabeST]

Looks awesome, I'm sure this would help in combination with a future rear diffuser.

 

[Fusion Works]

I kinda have plans for a rear diffuser, but doubt it will get built before Barber. I am one coat of paint ready from prepping the splitter for install, as soon as the brackets ship from Send Cut Send. (I got you a set).

Will be interesting to see how well it works with the OE floor covers, the splitter, and the beam cover panel. I also wonder how well that cover will last twisting with the beam. The plastic is pretty flexible, so it should be OK.

 

[WannabeST]

Can't wait to see the final product on the splitter

 

[Jabbit]

I kinda have plans for a rear diffuser, but doubt it will get built before Barber. I am one coat of paint ready from prepping the splitter for install, as soon as the brackets ship from Send Cut Send. (I got you a set).

Will be interesting to see how well it works with the OE floor covers, the splitter, and the beam cover panel. I also wonder how well that cover will last twisting with the beam. The plastic is pretty flexible, so it should be OK.

Send Cut Send is fantastic - I've only ordered samples from them before but I've followed them for quite a while. Hoping to design a couple bits soon to have them cut by them.

 

[Fusion Works]

This is my first go with them, obviously I just make my own parts, but Its time to grow up and properly draw up my ideas and have them laser cut. Plus once my designs are proven, I can make more for other people.

Got a set of 17x8 Hypergrams today. They don't come with centering rings and the center bore on the wheel is 73.1mm. Guess I am gonna have to make my own aluminum hub centric rings. Konig doesn't even show an aluminum one. Not using the plastic ones. They will help under track usage.

First bolt up, no spacers, just wheel on the rotor like my Rotas.


Houston, we have a problem!!!!!!

 

[Fusion Works]

Welp, that is a fail. These are a 17x8 ET40 wheel. Lets try that with a generic 3mm/.125in spacer.

Well that is a little on the close side. That is about .5mm/.020in. Good sign though. That is my closest contact point. Lets try a 6mm.

That is a little more than 2mm/.088in. Plenty of clearance without going to a HUGE spacer. So I can order 5mm spacers from H&R but they only sell them with the longer studs, I already have the longer studs and I happen to have a hunk of 6in 6061 aluminum round bar. Guess I am making my own spacers and hubcentric rings.

I am a little disappointed in what I would consider an odd machining finish on the back of the wheel hub face. Anyone else run into this? There is a weird step halfway through the hub face.

 

[Dialcaliper]

This is my first go with them, obviously I just make my own parts, but Its time to grow up and properly draw up my ideas and have them laser cut. Plus once my designs are proven, I can make more for other people.

Got a set of 17x8 Hypergrams today. They don't come with centering rings and the center bore on the wheel is 73.1mm. Guess I am gonna have to make my own aluminum hub centric rings. Konig doesn't even show an aluminum one. Not using the plastic ones. They will help under track usage.

First bolt up, no spacers, just wheel on the rotor like my Rotas.
View attachment 57318 View attachment 57319 View attachment 57320 View attachment 57321

Houston, we have a problem!!!!!!

The step shouldn’t be a problem - it will help them sit flat near the studs even if the hub face isn’t as flat as it should be. I believe the Dekagrams are the same. Why they didn’t bring the step all the way under the bolt, who knows?

I could have made my own, but ended up finding a set of cheap aluminum hubcentric rings on eBay that were reasonably well made (for flea bay stuff - read decent surface finish and actually concentric), with clever silicone orings to hold them in. Between the orings and anodizing, I’d have a hard time making them cheaper myself.

73.1mm is a common aftermarket size that Konig and many others also use.

Linky:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2645335101...nvKyLozQzy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Fusion Works]

Damn those are WAY nicer than I expected some Flebay parts to be. I was kinda thinking about making mine a shrink fit and just warm the wheel a little and push the rings in. I really see no reason to make them removable. Now you have me re-thinking making those. Were they machined or cast?

I don't see how the lug nuts don't put a bending force on that hub face when tightened down, plus I am not sure there would be enough contact patch to keep from introducing a shear load into the lug studs.

 

[Dialcaliper]

Damn those are WAY nicer than I expected some Flebay parts to be. I was kinda thinking about making mine a shrink fit and just warm the wheel a little and push the rings in. I really see no reason to make them removable. Now you have me re-thinking making those. Were they machined or cast?

I don't see how the lug nuts don't put a bending force on that hub face when tightened down, plus I am not sure there would be enough contact patch to keep from introducing a shear load into the lug studs.

The rings are machined, claim to be 7075-T6 and anodized. They appear to have come from a shop in SoCal, I’m guessing some small company that outsources the machining (not unlike how Ron sources “Whoosh” brand parts). They even came packed in a slick looking fake carbon fiber skinned wooden box and not just loose in a bag.

I’m sure there’s theoretically some bending going on with that step, but the hub is so thick between the lug nut seat and the hub face that I’m not that worried. Still an odd design, but I’m sure there’s a reason for it.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I’m sure there’s theoretically some bending going on with that step, but the hub is so thick between the lug nut seat and the hub face that I’m not that worried. Still an odd design, but I’m sure there’s a reason for it.

I'd love to have my Dekagram's hub faces machined/milled down about 5mm-6mm to pull them inboard that much and lessen the (excessive to ME) 'poke' they currently have.

But that would be more co$tly to do than just buying new, higher numerical ET, TD Pro Race LTs or KE Motorsport Pro wheels (but not more $$$ than the Braids I really want! )

 

[Fusion Works]

I'd love to have my Dekagram's hub faces machined/milled down about 5mm-6mm to pull them inboard that much and lessen the (excessive to ME) 'poke' they currently have.

But that would be more co$tly to do than just buying new, higher numerical ET, TD Pro Race LTs or KE Motorsport Pro wheels (but not more $$$ than the Braids I really want! )

I doubt there is enough material to safely pull 6mm out of the hub face on an aftermarket wheel.

 

[dhminer]

The step shouldn’t be a problem - it will help them sit flat near the studs even if the hub face isn’t as flat as it should be. I believe the Dekagrams are the same. Why they didn’t bring the step all the way under the bolt, who knows?

I could have made my own, but ended up finding a set of cheap aluminum hubcentric rings on eBay that were reasonably well made (for flea bay stuff - read decent surface finish and actually concentric), with clever silicone orings to hold them in. Between the orings and anodizing, I’d have a hard time making them cheaper myself.

73.1mm is a common aftermarket size that Konig and many others also use.

Linky:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2645335101...nvKyLozQzy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Those are nice, thanks for sharing. Just ordered a set

 

[Fusion Works]

Because I am a dork, have a machine shop at hand, and have 200lbs of titanium bar in the corner, its time to make some splitter rub blocks so I can shoot sparks on corner entry. These are 2.5in of 6AL 4V titanium .750in thick. That will get them within 2.25in of the track at ride height and once the car rolls into the corner and settles on the springs, hopefully sparking away. HAHA.


Also got the last coat of paint on the splitter today. It should be dry tomorrow. Also got a shipment notice from Send Cut Send on the splitter brackets. Hope those show up next week. Now to play with where I want to mount these blocks on the splitter.