Engine Code P1450

[Ecmdrw5]

Yeah, it took some digging to find the part. If you search the name Tube - Fuel Feed it doesn't show up. I had to get the "local"(45 miles away) Ford dealership to find it. It took him a few minutes to find it in their system. Something about that part number for the whole assembly isn't categorized correctly. Apparently the part number is F2BZ-9C047-C.

 

[ShadowBlackMower]

Hey guys, well mine finally took a dump.

Which is it?

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-tube-fuel-feed-d2bz9c047e

OR

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-tube-fuel-feed-f2bz9c047c

 

[MauiRoads]

Hey guys, well mine finally took a dump.

Which is it?

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-tube-fuel-feed-d2bz9c047e

OR

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-tube-fuel-feed-f2bz9c047c

I was getting the P0456. I cleaned all hose and electrical connections to the canister, and cleaned and lubed the "filler cap". Now I'm getting P1450 and P0456.
Did we get an answer: d2bz9c047e or f2bz9c047c? Mine's a 2017 if that matters. I read elsewhere that 16-19 owners sometimes use the 14-15 part, to be compatible with some aftermarket parts. Maybe the C is the earlier one and E is the later one?

 

[MauiRoads]

Problem fixed: no more CELs, Codes or Permanent Codes, no more near-stalling after fill-up.
Here's my experience. See Post 23 above for background.
After that post, I started getting CELs and codes 0456 and 1450 more often. I do not "top off", and I wait 30 seconds before removing the nozzle. One day, the car wouldn't fire up at the pump. After about 2 minutes of trying it finally started. (I noticed that when I would hold the start button down to keep cranking the starter, the starter would keep cranking after I released the button. Pressing the button again would stop the starter from cranking. I guess you're probably not supposed to hold the starter down? Another rabbit hole?)
I don't like the "throwing parts at it" method, but there are so many possible things that could be bad in the EVAP system (and even with my FORScan I couldn't narrow it down) so...I went with the evap purge valve. There's one at the canister itself, and one in the engine bay. Based on the posts here, I went with the one in the engine bay. Then there's the question about the part number. The parts diagrams all gave me the d2bz9c047e, but that had more tubes and connectors than the part in my car. Mine looked like f2bz9c047c, with the single offshoot from the main tubing/valve, so I went with that. Compare yours to the two options before ordering. I got an OEM part from Ebay with free shipping to Maui.
After installation, no more CELs, and the 0456 Permanent Code went away after a few stop/start cycles and miles. The 1450 Permanent Code remained until after the first time I filled up, then went away.
Hopefully this will last, but for next time I bought some fuel line (5/16 i.d.) that fits nicely over the valve's tubing nipples and over the tubing. I can cut out the bad valve and just replace that ($27), clamped into the fuel line "adapters".

 

[FiestaSTdude]

Does yours still stumble/stall at idle right after filling up or did the purge valve fix that? Mine still had the post fill up stumble even after I replaced the purge valve, so I assumed that they were two different things

I recently replaced my purge valve and haven’t had the post fill up stumbling since then.

 

[MauiRoads]

I recently replaced my purge valve and haven’t had the post fill up stumbling since then.

Same here.

 

[BleehbleBlahble]

Problem fixed: no more CELs, Codes or Permanent Codes, no more near-stalling after fill-up.
Here's my experience. See Post 23 above for background.
After that post, I started getting CELs and codes 0456 and 1450 more often. I do not "top off", and I wait 30 seconds before removing the nozzle. One day, the car wouldn't fire up at the pump. After about 2 minutes of trying it finally started. (I noticed that when I would hold the start button down to keep cranking the starter, the starter would keep cranking after I released the button. Pressing the button again would stop the starter from cranking. I guess you're probably not supposed to hold the starter down? Another rabbit hole?)
I don't like the "throwing parts at it" method, but there are so many possible things that could be bad in the EVAP system (and even with my FORScan I couldn't narrow it down) so...I went with the evap purge valve. There's one at the canister itself, and one in the engine bay. Based on the posts here, I went with the one in the engine bay. Then there's the question about the part number. The parts diagrams all gave me the d2bz9c047e, but that had more tubes and connectors than the part in my car. Mine looked like f2bz9c047c, with the single offshoot from the main tubing/valve, so I went with that. Compare yours to the two options before ordering. I got an OEM part from Ebay with free shipping to Maui. View attachment 56461
After installation, no more CELs, and the 0456 Permanent Code went away after a few stop/start cycles and miles. The 1450 Permanent Code remained until after the first time I filled up, then went away.
Hopefully this will last, but for next time I bought some fuel line (5/16 i.d.) that fits nicely over the valve's tubing nipples and over the tubing. I can cut out the bad valve and just replace that ($27), clamped into the fuel line "adapters".

So is F straight up wrong? Normally the new letter indicates a revison? I thought a was 14 and 15 c now f would be 16 up. But c looks like it has one more leg to it. I have a 17 I’ll confirm when I do mine

 

[MauiRoads]

It sounds like different parts work on different cars. I ignored the recommended parts numbers and searched until I found the part that looked like what was on my 2017. Sonny at Ford World OEM Parts has been very helpful and knowledgeable. When he looked up the part for my 2017, he confirmed that was the right part. See photo above.

 

[BleehbleBlahble]

There are two harnesses 4 leg and 3 leg. The 3 leg is the 16 and up the 4 leg is 14-15 but works with aftermarket intakes and is sold by whoosh.
D2BZ-9C047-E is the 14-15 4 leg or for aftermarket intakes
F2BZ-9C047-C is the 3 leg for 16 and up.

also the back clip by the firewall is a pita to reach with an intake in the way fwiw

 

[BleehbleBlahble]

Also fwiw 440 miles 20 warm up cycles for ECM to clear the permanent code. At least 15 warm ups and 250 miles seems to be the minimum but it took a while to set the Evap due to traffic. Best of luck to anyone who runs into the purge valve issue what a PITA perm codes are now.

 

[GabzRK]

It sounds like different parts work on different cars. I ignored the recommended parts numbers and searched until I found the part that looked like what was on my 2017. Sonny at Ford World OEM Parts has been very helpful and knowledgeable. When he looked up the part for my 2017, he confirmed that was the right part. See photo above.

How long has it lasted?

 

[MauiRoads]

How long has it lasted?

Looks like I'm going on a year and a half. I don't put on a lot of miles, maybe 5-7K in that time, but there's been no hint of a problem since then. Just out of paranoia from reading all the other posts, I'm cautious about overfilling and after the gas pump clicks off, I wait 20 seconds or so to remove the handle. I have no idea whether this matters or not.

 

[GabzRK]

Looks like I'm going on a year and a half. I don't put on a lot of miles, maybe 5-7K in that time, but there's been no hint of a problem since then. Just out of paranoia from reading all the other posts, I'm cautious about overfilling and after the gas pump clicks off, I wait 20 seconds or so to remove the handle. I have no idea whether this matters or not.

Gotcha, I'm having this issue with mine. It even stalls while coasting (in neutral) and does the post-refill clicking, so I have to fix it asap. Could you do me a favor and highlight what exact line I'm supposed to replace? Since it's best to look at it to determine what part I need, I could use some direction cause idk what I'm looking at lol. Appreciate it!
View attachment IMG_9657.jpeg

 

[MauiRoads]

Best case: see the photo and part number in my Post #24 above.
Yours looks a little different from mine, but it may just be the angle, etc. I've marked the part on mine, and my best guess on the part on yours.

 

[rallytaff]

Gotcha, I'm having this issue with mine. It even stalls while coasting (in neutral) and does the post-refill clicking, so I have to fix it asap. Could you do me a favor and highlight what exact line I'm supposed to replace? Since it's best to look at it to determine what part I need, I could use some direction cause idk what I'm looking at lol. Appreciate it!
View attachment 64428

 

[rallytaff]

"It even stalls while coasting (in neutral)". That's one thing you should NEVER do!

 

[BleehbleBlahble]

I have a 17 and replaced it early last year so roughly 6.5 years or 65k miles or so. That however was on a Cobb one as an adapter made for their air intake. I replaced it with an oem one for the 2014 (D2BZ-9C047-E) and it seems much better made. Hoping it lasts at least as long as the first.

 

[GabzRK]

"It even stalls while coasting (in neutral)". That's one thing you should NEVER do!

What's wrong with coasting instead of breaking? Or are you referring to automatics

 

[rallytaff]

What's wrong with coasting instead of breaking? Or are you referring to automatics

Your driving instructor never taught you correctly, did he/she? I would NEVER get in a car with you if that's how you drive!

 

[GabzRK]

Your driving instructor never taught you correctly, did he/she? I would NEVER get in a car with you if that's how you drive!

bruh.. I asked for you to tell me why its bad not to insult my driving smh

I did some googling, and it's suggested not to because of MPG, but I live in a really hilly area, so sometimes driving in neutral downhill seems better than putting excessive wear on my clutch by keeping it pushed in for long periods of time.