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Car won’t go into gear once started

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#21
Which is definitely possible but I don’t see how it could be messed up if the cables are in the bracket and on the correct stubs on the trans no ?
I honestly don’t know without being there, my friend. But, if you can’t properly find all 7 gears, and since we can’t find a problem with the clutch, it seems logical to look at the gear selection/linkage.
 


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#22
I am going to ask a really obvious question. If you put the car into gear and depress the clutch and then hit the starter, what happens. As in does the car try to roll while the starter is cranking or does the car start smoothly? If the car starts smoothly with the transmission in gear it's pretty obvious that the clutch is working. Which would lead to a conclusion that the shifter connection is not working properly.

BTW it's not uncommon for a transmission to block some gear selections when at rest with the engine off.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#23
Did you not Crack the Trans open before Clutch install? That would've been what really set you free on the shape of the internals! [driving]
 


Sam4

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#24
I recall my 1980 Mk1's tranny replacement had a 'no gear' problem. (Trying to remember exactly here) Haynes Repair Manual - "select 4th gear, block the selector"......something like that. Determine what was required before disassembly. Because my mechanic at the time did not. It took a while....
 


OP
T
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Thread Starter #25
I am going to ask a really obvious question. If you put the car into gear and depress the clutch and then hit the starter, what happens. As in does the car try to roll while the starter is cranking or does the car start smoothly? If the car starts smoothly with the transmission in gear it's pretty obvious that the clutch is working. Which would lead to a conclusion that the shifter connection is not working properly.

BTW it's not uncommon for a transmission to block some gear selections when at rest with the engine off.
No the car tries to lurch forward when doing so.
 


OP
T
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Thread Starter #26
I recall my 1980 Mk1's tranny replacement had a 'no gear' problem. (Trying to remember exactly here) Haynes Repair Manual - "select 4th gear, block the selector"......something like that. Determine what was required before disassembly. Because my mechanic at the time did not. It took a while....
Yes I did figure this out the car will go into reverse and 2nd and 6th now had to do a neutral reset
 


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#27
No the car tries to lurch forward when doing so.
If its lurching, then we are back to a clutch system issue. You're going to have to pull the transmission down.

It sucks. I just did a motor replacement and, when it was all back together, the clutch was slipping. I had to pull it all down and buy all new clutch parts. My only conclusion is that, when the motor exploded, the clutch got contaminated.

Point being . . . it sucks, but you're not alone.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #28
If its lurching, then we are back to a clutch system issue. You're going to have to pull the transmission down.

It sucks. I just did a motor replacement and, when it was all back together, the clutch was slipping. I had to pull it all down and buy all new clutch parts. My only conclusion is that, when the motor exploded, the clutch got contaminated.

Point being . . . it sucks, but you're not alone.
Well I’m glad I’m not alone 😂 but what should I even look for what am I exactly looking for
 


Sam4

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#29
I'm going to piggyback on your posting: Can I get a vote on Pumaspeed for transmissions? I saw one horror picture, but no glowing praise from satisfied customers. How about the core process from Clarke?
 


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#34
Another obvious question that has probably already been asked. Are you certain you do NOT have the lines between the clutch master cylinder and the transmission reversed? It may be worth the time to try reversing these lines and see what that does for the clutch.
 


Jabbit

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#36
I'm going to piggyback on your posting: Can I get a vote on Pumaspeed for transmissions? I saw one horror picture, but no glowing praise from satisfied customers. How about the core process from Clarke?
I ordered a "low mileage" trans from them with a Quaife LSD. Packing seemed janky but to be honest, it was adequate. That same trans was then pulled apart by my mechanic and upgraded further. Everything looked great, just dirty. I have an OEM trans on the ma/NH border if you are interested. 95k miles, was opened and inspected by my mechanic and was given a clean bill of health. It drove great in my car before swapping with the built one.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #37
Another obvious question that has probably already been asked. Are you certain you do NOT have the lines between the clutch master cylinder and the transmission reversed? It may be worth the time to try reversing these lines and see what that does for the clutch.
Could it be possible that the clutch pressure plate is torqued down too tight ? I didn’t torque it down insanely tight but could that be an issue ?
 


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#38
Could it be possible that the clutch pressure plate is torqued down too tight ? I didn’t torque it down insanely tight but could that be an issue ?
I doubt it …. although the service manual has a very specific torque rating and sequence that you really should follow
 


Sam4

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#39
I ordered a "low mileage" trans from them with a Quaife LSD. Packing seemed janky but to be honest, it was adequate. That same trans was then pulled apart by my mechanic and upgraded further. Everything looked great, just dirty. I have an OEM trans on the ma/NH border if you are interested. 95k miles, was opened and inspected by my mechanic and was given a clean bill of health. It drove great in my car before swapping with the built one.
My mekanickel days are long over, so I'm going to have to find a local shop - so anything less (more?) than a swap isn't really my call. I'm going to have to determine their interest (ahem, $$) in even doing the work in this day of Firestone Stores and Jiffy Lubes. I know you're out there Jabbit - I appreciate your response!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #40
Not to revive a older thread but.. I still CANNOT figure this out. Since this thread the car has all new lines from master to slave. New master cylinder from Tasca. As previously said the car has a fidanza flywheel , spec stage 3+ clutch and a new slave. Tried over and over and over to get this car to bleed and no matter what I do I cannot get this clutch to engage/disengage . And i can never get the clutch feel to not feel spongey. Even with the power bleeder. I’ve hooked it up pumped 1-2 quarters through the system pumped the clutch and tried over and over and over again . I’m at a loss
 




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