Virginia Safety Inspection/ Emissions

[Blk16 FiST]

I went to get my safety inspection/ emissions done today and the guy told me I need to put the sound symposer back on (I told him it’s not part of the emissions system) and he also told me the catted DP I have one probably won’t pass. I told him I bought the car with a catted downpipe from a dealership in VA (different one than the current whoosh catted DP) and he just shrugged and said we can try it but if it fails he has to report it. I also have a bung on the O2 sensor to kill the code that popped after putting the whoosh DP on and he said that has to come off too.

Anyone in Virginia with this stuff done get emissions and safety inspection done and pass??

Parts: mishimoto intake, whoosh symposer delete, mishimoto radiator, mishi coolant expansion tank, whoosh catted DP, MBRP exhaust with a different muffler welded on, dizzy stage 2 tune


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[Mycooking]

Id say bring it somewhere else and send it. Doesn't sound like it will fail and I'm saying this from Massachusetts who is nearly as strict as California emmision. The catted dp without the sensor may screw you but as long as the ECU tells the inspection OBD reader all is good then nothing to worry about.

 

[Blk16 FiST]

Id say bring it somewhere else and send it. Doesn't sound like it will fail and I'm saying this from Massachusetts who is nearly as strict as California emmision. The catted dp without the sensor may screw you but as long as the ECU tells the inspection OBD reader all is good then nothing to worry about.

That’s basically what I was thinking, But I’ll just throw the symposer back on and remove the O2 sensor bung.. if the code pops up between here and a different inspection shop I’ll clear the code and then give it to them to do emissions/ inspection..

Do you think having tune on will cause issues?


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[Dialcaliper]

That’s basically what I was thinking, But I’ll just throw the symposer back on and remove the O2 sensor bung.. if the code pops up between here and a different inspection shop I’ll clear the code and then give it to them to do emissions/ inspection..

Do you think having tune on will cause issues?


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I don’t know Virginia’s stance is, but Cali is checking ECU checksums now so there you need to have either a stock or CARB approved tune. Virginia is one of the states following CARB’s lead, but they have their own implementation of it and may or may not be checking it (yet?)

If an emissions code pops on the way to the inspection station, don’t go - check your readiness monitors (in Accessport or what ever you are using) because setting a code will reset one or more of them, and you’ll fail the OBD part of the inspection unless you drive around long enough to complete the readiness drive cycle. Which unfortunately means that whatever internal test failed (probably rear O2 sensor) won’t clear readiness until the ECU completes that test successfully.

The extra bad news is that if switching to the Whoosh downpipe is what threw the O2 code that required installing the O2 defender (which basically sends a fake “ok” signal), then there’s really no easy way to make it pass the test without resorting to something shady, or reinstalling the stock cat/downpipe

 

[Blk16 FiST]

I don’t know Virginia’s stance is, but Cali is checking ECU checksums now so there you need to have either a stock or CARB approved tune. Virginia is one of the states following CARB’s lead, but they have their own implementation of it and may or may not be checking it (yet?)

If an emissions code pops on the way to the inspection station, don’t go - check your readiness monitors (in Accessport or what ever you are using) because setting a code will reset one or more of them, and you’ll fail the OBD part of the inspection unless you drive around long enough to complete the readiness drive cycle. Which unfortunately means that whatever internal test failed (probably rear O2 sensor) won’t clear readiness until the ECU completes that test successfully.

The extra bad news is that if switching to the Whoosh downpipe is what threw the O2 code that required installing the O2 defender (which basically sends a fake “ok” signal), then there’s really no easy way to make it pass the test without resorting to something shady, or reinstalling the stock cat/downpipe

That's really frustrating.. guess ill take the defender off and see if the code comes back, after 75 miles (what the guy told me to drive after removing it). If it does come back on I guess ill have to get a different Cat, the car didn't have the stock one when I bought it and I didn't get my old one back from the shop that installed this one. If I have to go back to stock tune, does it need to also be on that for ~75 miles or so?

 

[Dialcaliper]

That's really frustrating.. guess ill take the defender off and see if the code comes back, after 75 miles (what the guy told me to drive after removing it). If it does come back on I guess ill have to get a different Cat, the car didn't have the stock one when I bought it and I didn't get my old one back from the shop that installed this one. If I have to go back to stock tune, does it need to also be on that for ~75 miles or so?

Do you have an Accessport? If so, you can go into diagnostics and check the readiness monitor status.

If you do it intentionally, you can probably complete the drive cycles and set the readiness monitors in a day.

Heres a neat guide on the specific drive cycles you need to complete:

http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/...cle/View/41/7/ford-motor-obd-ii-driving-cycle

As far as making sure the catalyst code doesn’t come back, it might be worth driving around for a while, even if you get the code to clear quickly, just in case because the ECU is basically checking these tests periodically any time you “accidentally” complete a cycle similar to the ones described above