Fiesta ST Intercooler Info Thread

[danbfree]

Interesting. I rarely push it that hard but even when I do I don't get more than maybe 15 degrees above ambient in my experience.

I know what you're saying, until this major heat and taking back to back full 2nd and 3rd full pulls I had seen the same thing... I'll see if I can replicate it today after work.

 

[danbfree]

I drive a similar route......from Hillsboro to Beaverton (near Nike), my charge temps got pretty high, but usually no more than 10* over

Well, unless you go out to River Road and it's wide open side roads then you won't be able to replicate what I did.. until this heat wave and having the space to do back to back full 2nd and 3rd gear pulls I had seen the same thing, MAYBE 15-20 degrees over ambient... but in a way that gives those of us in more mild climates a good gauge to go off of, is being able to keep charge temps down in back to back full pulls during a heat wave make upgrading the IC worth it? Or maybe once you add in the fact that you can then run more aggressive tunes as well for more power THEN make it worth it? Interesting to think about, but with a good IC down to under $300 it sounds like it may indeed be worth it for some of us.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I am just curious as to the 'upgraded IC to coolant temp gain' results using a FACTORY radiator.

Of course, there are MANY variables here as well; IC size, bar & plate vs. tube & fin, ambient temps, etc.

I am just wondering IF my reluctance to install the bar & plate CP-E IC (sitting in my basement) while keeping my factory radiator is justified in my general summer climate, especially considering that I sometimes have the Skid Plate Guy bash plate mounted up twice during the summer for long trips/working rallies.

Would installing the Mountune/CSR radiator even be enough leeway/'headroom' for me to confidently use the CP-E IC, given the above conditions??

 

[redmoe]

As I mentioned a couple posts earlier I noticed increased coolant temps with an upgraded ic (Whoosh bar and plate). Since the factory radiator was not performing so great in the Az heat anyway I went with the Mountune radiator. I would highly recommended it. My temps have dropped an average of 20 degrees keeping the coolant temps at the thermostat threshold most of the time (188 F in ambient up to 100 F).

 

[Dirttwurk]

I am just curious as to the 'upgraded IC to coolant temp gain' results using a FACTORY radiator.

Of course, there are MANY variables here as well; IC size, bar & plate vs. tube & fin, ambient temps, etc.

I am just wondering IF my reluctance to install the bar & plate CP-E IC (sitting in my basement) while keeping my factory radiator is justified in my general summer climate, especially considering that I sometimes have the Skid Plate Guy bash plate mounted up twice during the summer for long trips/working rallies.

Would installing the Mountune/CSR radiator even be enough leeway/'headroom' for me to confidently use the CP-E IC, given the above conditions??

FWIW I have a mountune radiator & R-Sport pro 300 I/C. I also have an ADF belly pan. In the nasty heat/humidity we've been having up here lately, my coolant temps don't go over 200*, they usually sit right around 195-196. This is at 3:00 in the afternoon (ambient between 90-100*), leaving work with the A/C on full, doing about 90-95 mph on I-95/91. Driving like a human, temps are more around 188* or so.

 

[TDavis]

FWIW I have a mountune radiator & R-Sport pro 300 I/C. I also have an ADF belly pan. In the nasty heat/humidity we've been having up here lately, my coolant temps don't go over 200*, they usually sit right around 195-196. This is at 3:00 in the afternoon (ambient between 90-100*), leaving work with the A/C on full, doing about 90-95 mph on I-95/91. Driving like a human, temps are more around 188* or so.

I find that amazing. Can't wait to get my Mountune rad. Mine occasionally will get up to 205-230 depending conditions.

 

[alexrex20]

Ya I'm jelly too. Unfortunately I blew my radiator money on new tires (again), even though I just got them 2 months ago.

 

[M-Sport fan]

FWIW I have a mountune radiator & R-Sport pro 300 I/C. I also have an ADF belly pan. In the nasty heat/humidity we've been having up here lately, my coolant temps don't go over 200*, they usually sit right around 195-196. This is at 3:00 in the afternoon (ambient between 90-100*), leaving work with the A/C on full, doing about 90-95 mph on I-95/91. Driving like a human, temps are more around 188* or so.

THANK YOU!

THIS is what I needed to hear!

 

[Dirttwurk]

THANK YOU!

THIS is what I needed to hear!

No problem. I bought the rad before I ever took delivery of my car from the dealer, based on other people's reports of high coolant temps here on the forums. It's been in the car since new, so I don't really have my own baseline for comparison as to what temps I'd have on the stock radiator. Also part of my reasoning for going with a tube-fin style I/C, as I feel that it flows air through the cooling pack slightly better than a bar-plate style. That's a purely subjective observation, not trying to start an argument about the merits of tube-fin vs bar-plate, so take that with a grain of salt I guess.

I've prioritized upgraded the cooling systems on all of my vehicles for a while now, boiling over sucks. Back in the day, I once had to fill up one of my fox mustangs with river water and a plastic water bottle that I found in a park trashcan after a major boil over. F. That.

I should also note that I got some adhesive backed foam and replicated the foam pads stuck all over the stock rad on the mountune rad, created a "gasket" of sorts where the fan shroud sits against the mountune unit, and I also removed the little flappers off of the shroud. I also used an airlift tool to fill the system after I swapped out the radiator.

 

[danbfree]

I drive a similar route......from Hillsboro to Beaverton (near Nike), my charge temps got pretty high, but usually no more than 10* over

Interesting. I rarely push it that hard but even when I do I don't get more than maybe 15 degrees above ambient in my experience.

Confirmed on my commute home, was reading 97 degrees ambient, hit 130 charge temp on first 2nd/3rd pull, 138 on 2nd and after some cooling time, about 137 on a 3rd... Hit about 213 oil temp, 211 coolant temp so I'm doing OK considering how hot it is... I'm pretty sure Stratified runs a much more aggressive fan profile than stock, seems like it's always blasting full speed in the heat, which is good I guess...

 

[XanRules]

Damn dude, I'll take the highway tonight (pending traffic) and see what I hit. Even city driving I'm never more than 12 degrees above ambient.

 

[danbfree]

Damn dude, I'll take the highway tonight (pending traffic) and see what I hit. Even city driving I'm never more than 12 degrees above ambient.

It takes the full pulls to do it, in city driving I was only 10-15 degrees above too...

 

[M-Sport fan]

Also part of my reasoning for going with a tube-fin style I/C, as I feel that it flows air through the cooling pack slightly better than a bar-plate style. That's a purely subjective observation, not trying to start an argument about the merits of tube-fin vs bar-plate, so take that with a grain of salt I guess.

This has been discussed on here extensively, and the above at least seems to be the general consensus, which if one thinks about it logically, makes sense.

Where the 'argument' comes into play is in the dispute over which style/type IC actually cools the charge air itself more efficiently, and more in actual temp drop, AND repeatably after many all-out pulls.

 

[stascom]

On custom Mountune 91 map, I've hit charge temps of 50F over ambient with stock IC On Woosh I/C now. Haven't seen more than 15F over (at stop). While driving, they're somewhere between 6F and 10F over ambient.

I've drilled out 2 rows of the honeycomb cells and put a few holes in the skinny bar that's right in front of the radiator. Seems my temps are about 10F lower now Though that's inconclusive.

 

[Quisp]

I am just curious as to the 'upgraded IC to coolant temp gain' results using a FACTORY radiator.

Of course, there are MANY variables here as well; IC size, bar & plate vs. tube & fin, ambient temps, etc.

I am just wondering IF my reluctance to install the bar & plate CP-E IC (sitting in my basement) while keeping my factory radiator is justified in my general summer climate, especially considering that I sometimes have the Skid Plate Guy bash plate mounted up twice during the summer for long trips/working rallies.

Would installing the Mountune/CSR radiator even be enough leeway/'headroom' for me to confidently use the CP-E IC, given the above conditions??

Hotter than a spoon at Demi Lovato's house here and no noticeable change in radiator temps with Cobb style intercooler.

 

[Quisp]

This has been discussed on here extensively, and the above at least seems to be the general consensus, which if one thinks about it logically, makes sense.

Where the 'argument' comes into play is in the dispute over which style/type IC actually cools the charge air itself more efficiently, and more in actual temp drop, AND repeatably after many all-out pulls.

I wish someone on here could lend you a garage or work area to install that I.C . So you could load that tune.

 

[danbfree]

On custom Mountune 91 map, I've hit charge temps of 50F over ambient with stock IC On Woosh I/C now. Haven't seen more than 15F over (at stop). While driving, they're somewhere between 6F and 10F over ambient.

I've drilled out 2 rows of the honeycomb cells and put a few holes in the skinny bar that's right in front of the radiator. Seems my temps are about 10F lower now Though that's inconclusive.

I was wondering about drilling holes in the lower grill where it is solid, good to hear it actually helps somewhat... Did you just use a Dremel tool and does it leave clean looking surfaces?

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[M-Sport fan]

I wish someone on here could lend you a garage or work area to install that I.C . So you could load that tune.

At this point I am considering taking a road trip out to Dizzy Tuning to get it road/dyno tuned IN PERSON by Jason, and get the AP set up the exact way I want it to be.
(I need an excuse to go back out to the East End anyway, I MISS that area!!)

I am holding out on the IC install at this point (even if I had a work space) until I can get either the Mountune/CSR or Whoosh's (IF that is a reality, kind of hinted at by Ron ) radiator, and do them, and the coolant hoses ALL at the same time, BEFORE loading any tunes.

 

[Dpro]

I was wondering about drilling holes in the lower grill where it is solid, good to hear it actually helps somewhat... Did you just use a Dremel tool and does it leave clean looking surfaces?

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Basically if you drill holes in your bumper crossbar as well it would make a difference. The solid part is right in front of the bumper bar which is why Ford did not leave the part of that honeycomb drilled out.

 

[deadlast]

Basically if you drill holes in your bumper crossbar as well it would make a difference. The solid part is right in front of the bumper bar which is why Ford did not leave the part of that honeycomb drilled out.

Isn't it counter intuitive to drill holes into a crossbar that is there for the sole purpose of keeping you safe? Do you need lower temps that bad?

Guys, don't cut holes in safety devices.

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