Mountune Radiator Interference Issue.

[scooter123]

A really joyful problem caused by my Mountune 3 Pass Radiator just popped up it's ugly head 3 years after being installed. The issue is that the fan shroud is shifted towards the engine. Close enough that it can rub on the hose going from the Reservoir to the front of the engine. After 3 years of use that will then rub a hole through that rather critical hose. A molded hose that I expect will take anywhere from a month to a year to get to my local dealer. Right now I'm scheming on how to splice in a patch to serve as a temporary but am concerned that may not be doable. One thing for sure is that I'm going to have to pull the fan shroud and already know that wont be at all fun.

Note to Mountune, it would have been nice if you had pointed out this problem potential and detailed how to grind the rib on the fan shroud that acts to cut this critical hose. I know, nobody has ever mentioned this before. I have a one word response and the word starts with a B, has LL in the middle, and ends with a T. YOU GUYS DROPPED THE BALL ! ! !

 

[TyphoonFiST]

A really joyful problem caused by my Mountune 3 Pass Radiator just popped up it's ugly head 3 years after being installed. The issue is that the fan shroud is shifted towards the engine. Close enough that it can rub on the hose going from the Reservoir to the front of the engine. After 3 years of use that will then rub a hole through that rather critical hose. A molded hose that I expect will take anywhere from a month to a year to get to my local dealer. Right now I'm scheming on how to splice in a patch to serve as a temporary but am concerned that may not be doable. One thing for sure is that I'm going to have to pull the fan shroud and already know that wont be at all fun.

Note to Mountune, it would have been nice if you had pointed out this problem potential and detailed how to grind the rib on the fan shroud that acts to cut this critical hose. I know, nobody has ever mentioned this before. I have a one word response and the word starts with a B, has LL in the middle, and ends with a T. YOU GUYS DROPPED THE BALL ! ! !

Pics of problem?

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk

 

[M-Sport fan]

Could actual warpage of the fan shroud be the culprit here?

Mine has warped so much in the 6 years since being built that I feel the need to fill in the gaps to the factory radiator with high temp foam and that silver high heat duct tape.

(Or is it 100% due to the additional thickness of the Mountune radiator??)

 

[green_henry]

I just checked mine and didn't notice any issues (mine was installed 4 years ago). A photo would be helpful, in case I'm looking in the wrong place.

 

[stadlxr]

Side question, what are the dimensions of the core of the mountune radiator?

 

[scooter123]

Have not a clue as to the measurements but it will fit the envelope of the standard radiator with one exception, that is that it's roughly about 5/8 inch thicker and shifts the fan shroud towards the engine by that same amount. As for the problem point, it's so cramped in that area a photo would not be informative. However if you trace the hose going from the bottom of the reservoir down to the point where the hose is mounted to quick disconnect fitting near the thermostat you'll be in the correct area. Go back about 2 inches from the end of the hose and look to the fan shroud. There you will see a corner for the raised rib that surrounds a pass thru opening in the shroud and it's that corner that cuts the hose.

Had to stop in at Autozone today to pick a new battery for a work vehicle and had the store manager helping me out with that. Once the sale for the battery was complete I then asked her if she could find a "lower hose" or "Outlet hose" for a 2019 Fiesta ST. No luck on the in store system but she went a bit beyond and used her phone to search the Autozone web site where she found the required hose. It's made by Continental and the part number is D91606. So the hose is on order and cost for the hose was $18.46. It should be in the store either late tomorrow or Wednesday, all dependent on how fast FEDEX gets it to the store. BTW, also stopped at the dealer and they only sell the complete assembly (2 hoses and the quick connect fitting) and the cost is 106 dollars and change. On my way home tonight I stopped in a local autoparts shop and picked up some hose clamp plyers and a pair of double jointed super long extension needle nose pliers. Did some testing and the hose clamp pliers are perfect for the hose end at the reservoir and the super long needle nose pliers will work on the hose clamp at the quick disconnect fitting in the front of the engine but it will be a royal PITA. When I get it all back together I plan on using screw type hose clamps because I flat out hate those spring clamps.

BTW, I have the Ford service manual on CD for the Fiesta and it combines the Duratec and Ecoboost powertrains so it covers both the ST and Standard model. In the instrucitons for removal of the Degas Bottle (what Ford calls the reservoir) it's called the "lower hose". For the instructions for removing the thermostat it's called the "Outlet Hose". One miserable tidbit about that "official" Ford Service Manual is that the only part numbers listed in the entire manual are the part numbers needed for tools needed for doing specialty jobs such as locking in the camshafts to replace the timing belt. So a note to those considering purchasing one of these manuals, it's good at describing the steps for a repair but NONE of those documents can be printed. So you are hamstrung into having a laptop with the CD loaded on your work bench or tool cart. Basically due to Ford's obsessive concerns about someone bootlegging these service manuals they have made them as inconvenient to use as is possible. To the point where it is almost unusable.

 

[Dpro]

The factory service manual is floating around on the net in pdf . I have a copy on a thumb drive that D-Resonant gave me. I know that DJ1L also has it that way as well.
As for the MOUNTUNE rad being thicker I have not experienced an issue with my fan shroud and mine has been in for over 3 years as well. I was not able to put a Whoosh cold side pipe on the car because it would not clear in the area because of the Mountune rad. It’s a thicker rad it’s thicker than the Mishimoto. I am not sure how it compares to the Koyo but the Mountune is made by CSF which is reputable company.

 

[koozy]

It’s a thicker rad it’s thicker than the Mishimoto.

False

 

[M-Sport fan]

One miserable tidbit about that "official" Ford Service Manual is that the only part numbers listed in the entire manual are the part numbers needed for tools needed for doing specialty jobs such as locking in the camshafts to replace the timing belt. So a note to those considering purchasing one of these manuals, it's good at describing the steps for a repair but NONE of those documents can be printed. So you are hamstrung into having a laptop with the CD loaded on your work bench or tool cart. Basically due to Ford's obsessive concerns about someone bootlegging these service manuals they have made them as inconvenient to use as is possible. To the point where it is almost unusable.

The printed, book form GM Helms manuals are the same way as concerns hard part numbers and tool numbers.

I know it is now considered way, way old school pre-dinosaur, but yes, I would MUCH prefer a PRINTED BOOK form of manual like that old GM Helms deal, and wish that Ford offered that option.

I only own one laptop, not 4, (one for each specific purpose like some have the privilege of doing), and refuse to have it near oil, grease, automotive fluids/solvents/etc.

 

[Jabbit]

The printed, book form GM Helms manuals are the same way as concerns hard part numbers and tool numbers.

I know it is now considered way, way old school pre-dinosaur, but yes, I would MUCH prefer a PRINTED BOOK form of manual like that old GM Helms deal, and wish that Ford offered that option.

I only own one laptop, not 4, (one for each specific purpose like some have the privilege of doing), and refuse to have it near oil, grease, automotive fluids/solvents/etc.

I have a Panasonic Toughbook for tuning/logging that is pretty durable. Also have a PC in my garage for pulling up YouTube videos and the like, full screen, while I follow along with complicated repairs. It helps that I'm in the IT industry - I have 8-9 computers but I've only ever paid for 1 of them.

 

[Dpro]

False

prove it.

 

[koozy]

prove it.

You can look it up, the specs are available.

 

[koozy]

here’s a shot of the Mishimoto and Mountune radiators.

 

[Dpro]

here’s a shot of the Mishimoto and Mountune radiators.
View attachment 49973
View attachment 49974

you may be right I might have mixed them up. That’s why I said prove it since you called me out on it. It’s all good I was having fun with the prove it but ya I can admit I might have been mistaken.

 

[stadlxr]

Reason for asking for size is I wanna get this radiator. Dimensions in picture. They’re metric

 

[scooter123]

Today's update on the hose. It turns out that Autozone's inventory system is NOT kept up to date. Checked in today on the statue for the hose that was supposed to be delivered Tuesday or Wednesday and the order had been cancelled by Autozone. So took a drive up the road about a mile do the Ford dealer and ordered the complete hose assembly for 106 plus change. Which is composed of the hose I need plus a quick connect fitting and another hose I do not need. Note the hose that is damaged came off pretty easily without any need to fuss with the fan shroud and installation is just as simple. That quick disconnect fitting would require complete removal of the fan shroud so I'm going to have some parts I don't think I'll ever need.

Once I got home I let the car cool down for 3 hours. Then I pulled the damaged hose using hose clamp pliers for the reservoir end and some extended double jointed needle nose pliers for the fitting end of the hose. Took me about 10 minutes to find the best approach for those super long pliers but in total time invested it took me about 15 minutes to have the hose in my hand. It's pretty tight in there so those with fat hands may have to pull the fan shroud, fortunately I have pianists hands that are nice and skinny. I then took the damaged hose and whittled out a stray bit of rubber to fit the cavity worn into the hose. After gluing that in place with contact cement I then got out some 60 grit sandpaper to scuff up the repair area to a complete matte finish. Then I took a bicycle tube patch kit and used that to patch the hose. To get a good tight bond I then wrapped that entire area of the hose with electricians tape that I put a lot of stretch into and went end to end about 4-5 times. Then I mounted the hose using screw type hose clamps on both ends. After the hose was mounted I then took a spare hose clamp and positioned it so that it is centered over the defect in the repaired hose. Hopefully all that additional support will keep that patch secure enough to drive the car until the new hose assembly arrives. Note the dealer say's Monday but the way thing have been going I'm not placing any bets on that happening. To finish up I then got out the vacuum filler kit out to refill the system.

Note, pulling the damaged hose at the quick connect end served to drain the cooling system and I had a catch pan placed there when I started. The manual probably states to drain the cooling system by pulling the bottom radiator hose but I just didn't see any sense in pulling two hoses when the one that needed repair had to come off anyway.

One the repair was done and the cap put back in order I then took some paper towel and stuffed it into the cavity in the repaired area to act as a "Tell" if there is any leakage. Took the car out for a 5 mile test drive and when I got home there was no trace of moisture. Yeah, not much of a test but I have to do the gym, groceries, and run some other areas tomorrow so I'll get a bit more testing in. Sunday will be a sort of high mile day because it's Skeet practice at a range that's 18 miles from the house.

PS; The screw clamps are position for easy access to the screws and due to this they also act as a "guard" to protect the hose from the fan shroud.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Today's update on the hose. It turns out that Autozone's inventory system is NOT kept up to date. Checked in today on the statue for the hose that was supposed to be delivered Tuesday or Wednesday and the order had been cancelled by Autozone. So took a drive up the road about a mile do the Ford dealer and ordered the complete hose assembly for 106 plus change. Which is composed of the hose I need plus a quick connect fitting and another hose I do not need. Note the hose that is damaged came off pretty easily without any need to fuss with the fan shroud and installation is just as simple. That quick disconnect fitting would require complete removal of the fan shroud so I'm going to have some parts I don't think I'll ever need.

Once I got home I let the car cool down for 3 hours. Then I pulled the damaged hose using hose clamp pliers for the reservoir end and some extended double jointed needle nose pliers for the fitting end of the hose. Took me about 10 minutes to find the best approach for those super long pliers but in total time invested it took me about 15 minutes to have the hose in my hand. It's pretty tight in there so those with fat hands may have to pull the fan shroud, fortunately I have pianists hands that are nice and skinny. I then took the damaged hose and whittled out a stray bit of rubber to fit the cavity worn into the hose. After gluing that in place with contact cement I then got out some 60 grit sandpaper to scuff up the repair area to a complete matte finish. Then I took a bicycle tube patch kit and used that to patch the hose. To get a good tight bond I then wrapped that entire area of the hose with electricians tape that I put a lot of stretch into and went end to end about 4-5 times. Then I mounted the hose using screw type hose clamps on both ends. After the hose was mounted I then took a spare hose clamp and positioned it so that it is centered over the defect in the repaired hose. Hopefully all that additional support will keep that patch secure enough to drive the car until the new hose assembly arrives. Note the dealer say's Monday but the way thing have been going I'm not placing any bets on that happening. To finish up I then got out the vacuum filler kit out to refill the system.

Note, pulling the damaged hose at the quick connect end served to drain the cooling system and I had a catch pan placed there when I started. The manual probably states to drain the cooling system by pulling the bottom radiator hose but I just didn't see any sense in pulling two hoses when the one that needed repair had to come off anyway.

One the repair was done and the cap put back in order I then took some paper towel and stuffed it into the cavity in the repaired area to act as a "Tell" if there is any leakage. Took the car out for a 5 mile test drive and when I got home there was no trace of moisture. Yeah, not much of a test but I have to do the gym, groceries, and run some other areas tomorrow so I'll get a bit more testing in. Sunday will be a sort of high mile day because it's Skeet practice at a range that's 18 miles from the house.

PS; The screw clamps are position for easy access to the screws and due to this they also act as a "guard" to protect the hose from the fan shroud.

I could've told you that* They are as up to date as my Soccer cleats from highschool!

 

[New_Daily]

With my Mountune rad, I’ve noticed that one of the flaps on the fan shroud hits one of the AC lines. I can take a pic tomorrow. It definitely prevents the flap from opening all (even most) of the way. I don’t recall any interference with any cooling lines though.

 

[TDavis]

Sounds like installer error. Never heard of a problem fitting the Mountune, or any after effects. If anything its the Mishi with the issues since its thicker and such a tight fit. As for the cooling fan flaps. I just removed all of those when I had the cooling fan out.

 

[New_Daily]

Sounds like installer error. Never heard of a problem fitting the Mountune, or any after effects. If anything its the Mishi with the issues since its thicker and such a tight fit. As for the cooling fan flaps. I just removed all of those when I had the cooling fan out.

I wouldn't advise removing the flaps, they serve a purpose. In this case, helping to create a vacuum on the radiator side of the fan / radiator interface to ensure adequate air is pulled through by the fan when you're sitting and not moving, then to open when incoming air is moving through the radiator from the front and giving it somewhere go after it flows through. Sure, especially with a larger rad, it's possible you'll never have any issues, but one of those things I wouldn't want to lose.