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Still having suspension issues, what to check next?

OP
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Thread Starter #41
Maybe I missed it in your diagnoses, but is it possible that subframe mounting bolt got broken when you spun the car?
Also, you should check the braces.

View attachment 49291 View attachment 49292

You also said that you were going to check the steering rack mounting bolts however, I did not see that it was done.
Totally forgot to mention the steering rack bolts, I did check them and they were all tight. I'll get under it again and check those sub frame bolts though.

Also gonna find a more performance oriented shop around me to have them do some legitimate diagnostics, there's one that only does Porsches but I've heard of them working on FiST's so we'll see...
 


OP
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Thread Starter #42
There is another issue that can be caused by a spin and hitting a bump or berm.
I see that you have had your car aligned more than once however, most shops do not perform a 4-wheel alignment because of the non-adjustable nature of this car.

A 4-Wheele alignment is VERY important because it can diagnose improper tracking.
You should also check the twist beam mounting bolts and bushings.

View attachment 49293
I did check the bushings and there was no play, but not too sure if I did it correctly, what I did is take a pry bar and stick it between the bush and metal tab above it and, well, pry, and there was no play.

Didn't check the bolts though so I'll have a look at that when I re-torque the RMM.

I do feel like whatever's up is in the front end, and whatever's the cause of that slight wobble I mentioned is what's giving me trouble when moving, getting more intense as speed increases. Also noticed the car is affected when more passengers are on board.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #43
Alrighty got underneath the car to check subframe bolts, everything was on tight. Really hoping there's no frame damage, seems unlikely but I'm kinda running out of options, or maybe I just got defective shocks/struts given the wobbles when the car is stationary. Took it on the freeway again today and it doesn't feel stable still.

Thanks all for your help on this, really bummed I still haven't gotten it fixed after this long but the advice is massively appreciated and y'all seem very knowledgeable.

I'll check back in again if anything gets figured out
 


OP
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Thread Starter #45
You've not fitted springs upside down at the front have you .....
That'd be really embarrassing for mountune if they're upside down, I got the Clubsport suspension which comes pre-assembled.
 


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#46
Hah. Can rule that one out then! I'm still thinking it's a bush that has twisted on fitting and is under tension when at rest. And are the bushes in the arms etc polybushed or just new standard bushes?

In terms of what can let a car move around at a standstill, that's not a long list!

Top hat bushings all good? Have you had a skinny mate lay under the car whilst you rock it to see if anything visibly moves .... or if no skinny mate (.or no mates) what about a go pro or a phone camera?
 


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D1JL

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#47
Did you ever have a 4-WHEEL alignment done?
That should tell you if something got bent.
 


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OP
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Thread Starter #48
Hah. Can rule that one out then! I'm still thinking it's a bush that has twisted on fitting and is under tension when at rest. And are the bushes in the arms etc polybushed or just new standard bushes?

In terms of what can let a car move around at a standstill, that's not a long list!

Top hat bushings all good? Have you had a skinny mate lay under the car whilst you rock it to see if anything visibly moves .... or if no skinny mate (.or no mates) what about a go pro or a phone camera?
All OEM bushes on the arms, I noticed the bigger bushing has some play to it so I'm wondering if that's already shot, but I know there's supposed to be a small amount.

There was also some slight play in the end links which the dealer suggested replacing but I said no since they were new, I might just replace those since they're inexpensive.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #50
Resurrecting this thread. I just noticed something on my alignment spec sheets, everything looks good but I noticed that the rear toe is at 0.19 and 0.26 for the left and right respectively. Do these measurements seem high at all? I'm wondering if this is where my issues have stemmed from and feel a bit stupid for not noticing it earlier.

I'm guessing that this measurement would surely indicate that perhaps the torsion bar might be bent and needs to be replaced?
 


TyphoonFiST

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#51
Resurrecting this thread. I just noticed something on my alignment spec sheets, everything looks good but I noticed that the rear toe is at 0.19 and 0.26 for the left and right respectively. Do these measurements seem high at all? I'm wondering if this is where my issues have stemmed from and feel a bit stupid for not noticing it earlier.

I'm guessing that this measurement would surely indicate that perhaps the torsion bar might be bent and needs to be replaced?
Looks [emoji106]...Drive that ma facka

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OP
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Thread Starter #52
Looks [emoji106]...Drive that ma facka

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
Might put the OEM shocks and struts back on and see if that changes anything. The rears are blown I'm pretty sure but that seems like the only answer at this point.

The car still doesn't feel right, I paid the dealer for a full inspection and all they said was maybe endli ks, but weren't certain. That'll answer if my new dampers have been the problem all along.
 


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#53
Hi all, I've posted here a few times looking for advice, tried different things and am still dealing with issues in the way my car handles and feels. I'm gonna start off with what I'm experiencing then go over what's been replaced.

I had a spinout in some pretty bad weather and right off the bat could tell something wasn't right with my car. I've put a ton of money into my car to fix what I thought was wrong with it, then taken it into the dealer but they couldn't figure anything out. I'm still here not being able to enjoy my car the way it's meant to be.

When the car is stationary I can push on it from the side and it wobbles a decent amount, it will wobble when I close my door, get in and out of the car. There's a decent amount of bump steer, which I know is from lowering it. There's a ton of torque steer, especially on uneven road surfaces. The car tramlines considerably. And overall the car just doesn't feel very stable, I avoid going on the highway now because it doesn't feel safe, I really have to keep my car going in a straight line. When taking a corner aggressively, the car feels kinda wobbly and bouncy as opposed to flat and composed, it still handles well, but it just doesn't feel right.

I'm hesitant but not opposed to saying that one of the parts I've changed might be bad, but after driving around after installing new parts I can't say there were any huge improvements in how the car drove except for getting the broken tie rod end replaced.
I've hit a limit for how long my post is I think so I'll make another post in this thread with what's been replaced and the work that's been performed. One thing to note is the car has been aligned multiple times, and had it's most recent one less than a week ago after getting the second tie rod end replaced.
have you got this figured out? i’m dealing with what seems to be the exact same problem you are describing.
 


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#55
OP posted the front alignment specs a long time ago and the toe was not what I would recommend for a street car that feels unstable. It would do everything he described and I don’t know why folks didn’t press him to get that fixed or to post the thrust & rear alignment numbers, or the whole alignment sheet for that matter. They let him mess with the top hat bolts (which would have altered the alignment further) just because he thought they were crooked, but the alignment tech would have moved them to where they were during the alignment. There are small amounts of camber and caster at those bolts and when they move, so does toe. Toe out is not stable in a straight line & our cars are extremely sensitive to it.

Now for the claim that I always seem to hear & it always bothers me, “within spec”. This just means that the suspension is not even side to side & this is what the factory allows for laziness instead of matching those specs side for side during an alignment. You will notice if a damper has a different caster setting from the other, it will feel like bumpsteer. .5 of a degree difference is not insignificant, I don’t care if it’s within spec.
 




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