Fiesta ST Intercooler Info Thread

[dyn085]

I haven't seen any third-party data supporting the need of replacing charge pipes on the OEM turbo, so you should do some datalogging the day you replace it, if you do, and report back.

 

[RAAMaudio]

It was easy, no benders, welding, etc......

I think I sold it, that might be the easiest way to find it so going to take a look.

Wiped down with a bit of solvent it looked nice and clean but I did not take a picture that way.

PM for link, more info, etc....

 

[RAAMaudio]

I might have a full length 2" outlet to IC hose unit for sale as soon as I see what the EFR will need.

 

[Perfblue15]

After talking to ram im gonna just buy the pipe. I love diy and all but im to paranoid about charge pipes blowing off to do this diy style.

 

[RAAMaudio]

DIY "roll beading", not really but works.

Pliers, sliding wrench, whatever, work around the end of the tubing and bend a lip out a bit, it does not take much, put on hose, hose clamp, good to go. I have done this many times but I also use my rotory tools to clean it up for the best flow but I port everything intake to exhaust tip so for one part it might not matter much, have never had anything come loose after doing this.

Actually done right it will have the potential to flow better than bead rolling as most do not taper the inlet side of the following pipe, as I always do no matter how I make a part.

 

[Perfblue15]

DIY "roll beading", not really but works.

Pliers, sliding wrench, whatever, work around the end of the tubing and bend a lip out a bit, it does not take much, put on hose, hose clamp, good to go. I have done this many times but I also use my rotory tools to clean it up for the best flow but I port everything intake to exhaust tip so for one part it might not matter much, have never had anything come loose after doing this.

Actually done right it will have the potential to flow better than bead rolling as most do not taper the inlet side of the following pipe, as I always do no matter how I make a part.

Hmmmm i may mess with it to save the 150 bucks we'll see. I'm all for diy mods.

 

[MOFiST]

I haven't seen any third-party data supporting the need of replacing charge pipes on the OEM turbo, so you should do some datalogging the day you replace it, if you do, and report back.

I'd like to see this as well. A before and after WOT log should reveal what is up.

 

[OCDFist]

If you cut the turbo outlet pipe on the doughnut-side of the weld, the weld acts like a bead to hold the hose. I used the hose that RAAM suggested, but I crossed it to a Gates number at my local O'reilly's. Don't remember the Gates number, but it was NAPA #8825.

 

[Perfblue15]

If you cut the turbo outlet pipe on the doughnut-side of the weld, the weld acts like a bead to hold the hose. I used the hose that RAAM suggested, but I crossed it to a Gates number at my local O'reilly's. Don't remember the Gates number, but it was NAPA #8825.

After looking at it more im just gonna do exactly that. Thanks for the cheap mod guys. Now i just gotta get that number to cross with the computer at my work (pepboys). So after seeing this hose i take it i trim some of it off lol

 

[koozy]

just want to clear up some facts, I have no interest if one chooses to replace the hot pipe or not, but this is straight from ATP product page with regards to the STOCK turbo.

"NOTE: ATP Turbo high flow charge air pipe NOT recommended or necessary for Fiesta ST owners without turbo upgrade plans. Stock charge pipe system provides adequate flow for stock turbo and bolt-on performance modifications. The choking point occurs at turbo outlet (1.5? outer diameter and slightly above 1.25? inner diameter). Alternatively, intercooler upgrade will yield better returns and greatly enhances performance from even the stock turbo."

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...tp&Product_Code=ATP-FIE-004&Category_Code=FIE

 

[Perfblue15]

I removed the donut last night,noticed no gains. I did notice a little more turbine noise from the turbo though lol. Im gonna order the whole pipe anyways as i plan to upgrade turbos at some point.

 

[RAAMaudio]

The doughnut is just a resonator, why you hear the turbo more, the small volume of it was for a specific frequency bandwidth noise reduction.

 

[Sourskittle]

Even if its 5hp, and its 5hp that you can't feel, its still worth $30. But that's just me. 5 things of 4hp = 20hp. That's a 10% increase in power. We pay $500 for an accessport that claims a 6% increase in power. Just saying

I haven't done it, but just pointing out how lots of small things add up essp if you race most other FIST, lol

 

[RAAMaudio]

Well put SS

I build my cars from one end to the other, no stone unturned in reducing weight, balancing the chassis, braking, intake to exhaust tip porting and heat shielding...and have had huge success in defeating many "superior" and more powerful cars so this all does matter for those of us willing to take the time to bring out the best in our cars.

 

[dyn085]

That's a horrible way of putting it. You can't just 'add' modifications-that's ricer math and everyone should already understand that (clearly not, though). It's even more so when discussing the OEM turbo, in which some of the highest-hp versions are only using a FMIC and are just well-tuned for their fuel.

If you want to do things just to say they've been done or if you want to prep for a larger turbo is one thing, but if someone thinks they're going to nickel and dime power on the OEM turbo they will ultimately find that they're basically just wasting money. The FiST community is wrought with misinformation and speculation, and that's only further worsened by the spreading of guesses and assumptions that are not backed with any form of data.

 

[Sourskittle]

That's a horrible way of putting it. You can't just 'add' modifications-that's ricer math and everyone should already understand that (clearly not, though). It's even more so when discussing the OEM turbo, in which some of the highest-hp versions are only using a FMIC and are just well-tuned for their fuel.

If you want to do things just to say they've been done or if you want to prep for a larger turbo is one thing, but if someone thinks they're going to nickel and dime power on the OEM turbo they will ultimately find that they're basically just wasting money. The FiST community is wrought with misinformation and speculation, and that's only further worsened by the spreading of guesses and assumptions that are not backed with any form of data.

Good point. From now on, everyone just PM dyn085 with your questions since he has done all the testing and knows from experience obviously.

Its $30, not $300 like some other useless mods. If each 4hp was $300 a piece, then fine. But at $30, its sorta hard to go wrong.

Some of the guys on here are already at Stg3, but don't want the cost or complexity of upgrading the turbo ( at all ), so a $30 mod to help its efficiency all you can; isn't a bad idea.

Would it be my first mod? No. But really, if we're talking about being worth the money, then leave the car bone factory stock, add E85 and get a tune. Nothing else you can do will touch that ( short of upgrading the turbo ).
Does that mean everything besides a turbo upgrade or E50+ tune is pointless? No...

By Dyn0's reasoning, we shouldn't even add a AP because its $500 and adds... Well.... Nothing if your really asking me. Dyno the car. Then dyno the car on stg1 ots tune. Then rest the ecu to stage0 and dyno again. Bet you don't gain 5hp.

 

[Perfblue15]

I honestly just did the mod to experiment i was hoping for hp gains but the sound gain is more then enough for me. For a 20 dollar half hour mod I'm not complaining . Once i removed the pipe and saw that the resonator was straight through i pretry much knew there would be no gains. But yay for turbine noise!!!!

 

[dyn085]

Good point. From now on, everyone just PM dyn085 with your questions since he has done all the testing and knows from experience obviously.

Its $30, not $300 like some other useless mods. If each 4hp was $300 a piece, then fine. But at $30, its sorta hard to go wrong.

Some of the guys on here are already at Stg3, but don't want the cost or complexity of upgrading the turbo ( at all ), so a $30 mod to help its efficiency all you can; isn't a bad idea.

Would it be my first mod? No. But really, if we're talking about being worth the money, then leave the car bone factory stock, add E85 and get a tune. Nothing else you can do will touch that ( short of upgrading the turbo ).
Does that mean everything besides a turbo upgrade or E50+ tune is pointless? No...

By Dyn0's reasoning, we shouldn't even add a AP because its $500 and adds... Well.... Nothing if your really asking me. Dyno the car. Then dyno the car on stg1 ots tune. Then rest the ecu to stage0 and dyno again. Bet you don't gain 5hp.

Great, now we start the reading comprehension problem and start adding words/meaning to what people say.

A. I never claimed to 'know everything'. If you look at my initial response to the initial question, my response didn't say to avoid it. I simply said that there's no data to support the need and that if he did he should datalog it. See how that could have legitimately helped the community? We would have actual proof in one direction or the other.

B. You're assuming that there's a power gain. With no datalogging proof, we can assume there to not be one as well. That would make it a $30 noise-maker and would therefore be a complete waste of money, with the exception of those that wanted noise without power. And there's nothing wrong with that, because it can be a legitimate desire.

C. Not recommending the AP3 (or any tuning device) and using me as the person that would give such advice is ludicrous as I'm one of the few people that tries to actually look at and analyze data, and without a tuner that's nearly impossible without dumping a ton of money into dyno work.

D. HP isn't the only measurement of power (considering the fact that it's just a mathematical equation based on what's actually measured), and regardless of what the top-end gains are/aren't, that one single number doesn't paint the entire picture. Significant torque gains in the mid-range contribute to an entirely different driving experience, and as a vendor you should know that. If there were any gain whatsoever I would probably endorse the concept, but not surprisingly there's no actual data.

I'm never surprised when vendors team-up to make claims or want to argue against me using logic or trying to collect data. Just because I don't profit on information/thoughts that I share doesn't make them of any less value, and if anything the inverse is true. I never have to debate these things with Cobb or ATP or any of the other respectable vendors...

 

[rodmoe]

Well Put Dyno and Keep it on topic Guys we been there done that already... aka Play NICE .... or the thread will be cleaned up ..

 

[antarctica24]

So Im reading the Mountune website on their intercooler, and I see this

The packaging for the OE intercooler and radiator on the Fiesta ST is very compact leaving little space to effectively and safely install an upgraded intercooler. The mountune intercooler upgrade was engineered to retain the original Ford cooling pack or air ducting system. This helps maintain engine cooling temperatures thereby avoiding "over-heat" conditions that reduce engine power. Removal of the vehicle's original cooling pack and using a larger intercooler core would cause a dramatic increase in engine coolant temperature, inducing engine protection software strategies that reduce engine power for protection.

Most importantly what the hell are they talking about "Removal of the vehicles original cooling pack and using a larger intercooler core would cause a dramatic increase in engine coolant temperature" This is the first I have heard of this from anyone installing different intercoolers.

Can anyone shed any light on this?