AWR 95a Race Mount

[CreepyOldMan]

I have a daily driven S280 powered FiST and am considering the AWR mount. I know the NVH will be noticeable, but I live in the PNW so A/C is almost never on. Also, I want the least amount of engine movement and wheel hop as possible as I have big power plans for this car in the future. Does anyone have personal experience with this mount? I think I've read every AWR thread on here and have yet to come across anything about the 95a.

 

[Lays]

I have a 95a, it's extremely aggressive. Even after break-in, it still shakes the entire car when you're at low RPM or starting from a stop.

If my car was a fullblown racecar I wouldn't mind, but daily driving it makes me wish I had gotten a little softer. My car is a dual use dragstrip & daily car, but I drive on the street WAAAY more often than at the dragstrip.

 

[CreepyOldMan]

I have a 95a, it's extremely aggressive. Even after break-in, it still shakes the entire car when you're at low RPM or starting from a stop.

If my car was a fullblown racecar I wouldn't mind, but daily driving it makes me wish I had gotten a little softer. My car is a dual use dragstrip & daily car, but I drive on the street WAAAY more often than at the dragstrip.

How about the performance? Would you have chosen the 88 or another RMM altogether? Thanks for your insight, by the way!

 

[Lays]

How about the performance? Would you have chosen the 88 or another RMM altogether? Thanks for your insight, by the way!

I still have wheel hop sometimes, but I have a weird clunk up front that's been happening for a little, and I think one of my other motor mounts has failed. I've been too busy with a newborn and work to try and diagnose. It definitely shifts smooth as butter now and it's definitely a massive improvement over stock stuff. I have vibratechnics trans/pass side mount, they've been on the car for like ~40k miles and I think one of them may be worn out leading to that clunk.

I'd probably do 88, I may actually order the bushings for 88 and swap it out.

 

[CreepyOldMan]

Got it, thanks so much for your insight. I think I'll probably do the 88.

 

[Lays]

Got it, thanks so much for your insight. I think I'll probably do the 88.

You're welcome, I previously had a whoosh RMM in street, blew through the bushings in like ~20-30k miles, and swapped it out for a race bushing from Whoosh, it held up better, but the AWR feels like higher quality for sure. Everything just feels nicer.

I think I'm going to get the 70A side mounts and replace my vibratechnics when I have the funds, and replace my RMM bushing with 88.

I talked with Ali one of the reps for them, and she said they can send me Delrin as well if I ever wanted stiffer than 95, but 95 is vibrate-y enough! lol

 

[CreepyOldMan]

You're welcome, I previously had a whoosh RMM in street, blew through the bushings in like ~20-30k miles, and swapped it out for a race bushing from Whoosh, it held up better, but the AWR feels like higher quality for sure. Everything just feels nicer.

I think I'm going to get the 70A side mounts and replace my vibratechnics when I have the funds, and replace my RMM bushing with 88.

I talked with Ali one of the reps for them, and she said they can send me Delrin as well if I ever wanted stiffer than 95, but 95 is vibrate-y enough! lol

Do you think you'll go with the AWR mounts in 88 too? I'm tempted to do everything from the RMM to the full mount set (https://whooshmotorsports.com/colle...sPCzDPwMSoUKE6_mxtd8J-wdROdyqOKLg1S82UsqspOgs) in 95 Race just to go bananas lol. I want to go fully braced underneath eventually with a forged and cammed motor and everything. I am fully prepared to drive a streetable 'track car' and probably never or rarely take it on the track lol. An asinine thing to do for a 38yo guy, but I've always wanted to go 'full race car' as impractical as it is. I'm conflicted 😂

 

[Lays]

Do you think you'll go with the AWR mounts in 88 too? I'm tempted to do everything from the RMM to the full mount set (https://whooshmotorsports.com/colle...sPCzDPwMSoUKE6_mxtd8J-wdROdyqOKLg1S82UsqspOgs) in 95 Race just to go bananas lol. I want to go fully braced underneath eventually with a forged and cammed motor and everything. I am fully prepared to drive a streetable 'track car' and probably never or rarely take it on the track lol. An asinine thing to do for a 38yo guy, but I've always wanted to go 'full race car' as impractical as it is. I'm conflicted 😂

I think when I do the AWR passenger side and transmission mounts I'll do 70A to keep the vibration down, they'll still do a million times better job at keeping things in place vs the stock mounts I'd imagine.

You can always talk to AWR website livechat, they're extremely helpful and helped me decide on 95a the first time. Ali is a great person to talk to when it comes to customer service, very knowledgeable.

 

[CreepyOldMan]

I think when I do the AWR passenger side and transmission mounts I'll do 70A to keep the vibration down, they'll still do a million times better job at keeping things in place vs the stock mounts I'd imagine.

You can always talk to AWR website livechat, they're extremely helpful and helped me decide on 95a the first time. Ali is a great person to talk to when it comes to customer service, very knowledgeable.

That's a good idea, thanks man

 

[oldedub]

I know that the internet can be an echo chamber for bullshit, so I'm reluctant to profess something that I have not directly seen, but at least one well-regarded tuner on this platform had advised that they had seen false knock pulling timing with excessively stiff motor mounts.

Again, not saying this is some sort of ST tuning axiom, but it may be worth consideration as you select components.

We have the AWR 70 lower mount, IIRC. I seldom drive the car, but I've never driven it and thought that it should be stiffer with S280 through open diff to RT660s.

 

[CreepyOldMan]

I know that the internet can be an echo chamber for bullshit, so I'm reluctant to profess something that I have not directly seen, but at least one well-regarded tuner on this platform had advised that they had seen false knock pulling timing with excessively stiff motor mounts.

Again, not saying this is some sort of ST tuning axiom, but it may be worth consideration as you select components.

We have the AWR 70 lower mount, IIRC. I seldom drive the car, but I've never driven it and thought that it should be stiffer with S280 through open diff to RT660s.

I appreciate the information and I suppose it makes sense. The only thing I cannot understand... is seldom driving the FiST! I get antsy if I don't get to take it for a spin after a few days. It's just so damn fun.

 

[esp_martin]

FWIW, I'm also looking into finally upgrading my FiST from bone stock to aggressive mounting/bracing when I install an AP tune (either dizzy or adapt-X). I haven't installed anything so take this advice with a lot of salt: just bothering upgrading the rear/side motor and transmission mount makes a night and day difference based on tuners' reviews and youtube videos. Multiply that with two or six point bracing. So going from street (70A) to race (95) mounts is not going to benefit the car at all in terms of performance because you won't be pushing the car to it's limits if you're not racing (and a really good racer).

All that will do is decrease your comfort level while also decreasing the life of the interior of your car. That kind of vibration will reduce the life of anything literally not bolted down. For a racer, they throw out anything not bolted down anyway so it's a moot point. For a daily driver? Contemplating wearing a mouth guard to reduce your teeth chatter may start to annoy. Just something to consider.

 

[M0LTEN]

I am happy with my AWR 70a RMM and the powerflex passenger insert. My car still vibrates quite a bit more than stock but
I no longer have the clunking that was there without them. I must have over 70 k on them and there still in good shape.