What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

[Bull Run]

Replaced the driver's side blend door actuator, hatch support struts, and installed Cobb catted DP over the last weekend. "Strong Arm" struts are aptly named as the hatch now flies open. No major drama with the DP install as bolts where rust free (still used BP Blaster to be on the safe side). If anything, one of the nuts for the stock DP to cat back was pain to get off, as if it was cross threaded.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Finally put just 93 octane into it after about almost a year of e50. It's weird....it felt odd not mixing. I'm sad....

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Intuit]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086G75KF3/
Pretty convenient way of boosting octane.
Note: It takes several "points" to increase by one octane number and is not linear. Look at the back of the package.

EDIT 22y01m23d07h41m00s:
Was using the (inconvenient) Lucas product. Cut the package and can have two in the wallet.

 

[Bull Run]

Finalized the gauge setup and installed a phone mount.

Mounted the boost gauge and AP right next to the tech and speedo so I don't have to look far down to view them. I decided to leave the Snow Stage 3 controller where it is in case I end up with a Dizzy ethanol content gauge later. The controller blocks the fuel level gauge but I only need to lean forward a little to view it, and I only check it once during start of the drive anyways.

Ran the phone cable (USB-C) tucked under the passenger side trim and clipped it to the phone mount so it won't flap around when not in use. I think that I found a perfect phone mount location as it doesn't block any controls nor get in the way of a passenger, and still easily reachable. I use the AP for the picture as an approximation of a phone.

 

[FiestaSTdude]

Finalized the gauge setup and installed a phone mount.

Mounted the boost gauge and AP right next to the tech and speedo so I don't have to look far down to view them. I decided to leave the Snow Stage 3 controller where it is in case I end up with a Dizzy ethanol content gauge later. The controller blocks the fuel level gauge but I only need to lean forward a little to view it, and I only check it once during start of the drive anyways.

Ran the phone cable (USB-C) tucked under the passenger side trim and clipped it to the phone mount so it won't flap around when not in use. I think that I found a perfect phone mount location as it doesn't block any controls nor get in the way of a passenger, and still easily reachable. I use the AP for the picture as an approximation of a phone.

View attachment 46277
View attachment 46278
View attachment 46279

What mount did you use for the Accessport?

 

[DaleFredriks]

What mount did you use for the Accessport?

Looks like the exact same one that I did, correct me if I'm wrong.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WG6J8D...t_i_MVZXM10WV31K1AKCGSEB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Sent from my IN2025 using Tapatalk

 

[Bull Run]

What mount did you use for the Accessport?

I used the mount that came with the Accessport. If you are talking about the magnetic phone mount, it's Scosche MAGKIT (also works well with AP).

 

[Ludeem1]

Installed BC Coilovers that I’ve had for a few months lying around. I’ll try to get some better shots tomorrow. We put them in how they came and it sits pretty good. I’m gonna probably adjust it a bit harder since it feels a bit too soft for my liking but it rides comfortable

 

[rallytaff]

Replaced the driver's side blend door actuator, hatch support struts, and installed Cobb catted DP over the last weekend. "Strong Arm" struts are aptly named as the hatch now flies open. No major drama with the DP install as bolts where rust free (still used BP Blaster to be on the safe side). If anything, one of the nuts for the stock DP to cat back was pain to get off, as if it was cross threaded.

View attachment 46219 View attachment 46220 View attachment 46221

What's the part number for the StrongArm hatch struts?

 

[Ludeem1]

This how she sits on the BC’s

 

[Supapoopa]

Changed the tape holding the aluminum foot rest to my husky rubber floor mat. Need to find a better weather proof option to hold it on when it gets wet

 

[Bull Run]

What's the part number for the StrongArm hatch struts?

It's STRONGARM 6791 {#BE8Z58406A10A}: https://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=3345249&parttype=1404
I used a Rock Auto discount code for 5% off: 196088199173079009

 

[anticon]

I swapped out the Ramair induction hose I had for a Mountune one. The Mountune is significantly stiffer. I never had a problem with the Ramair collapsing, but I also have the Mountune airbox and filter.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Drove It to work trying NOT to go above 4k until the clutch is broke in. Talk about hard just as it starts to pick up and start into screaming eagle mode...NOPE. Gotta pull the rug out from underneath the FiST.

 

[Business6]

Replaced my crumbling and withering windshield moldings. Didn't realize the retainers were in there in the manner they are because they absolutely do not need to be replaced, though I guess they might for a windshield replacement? I dunno. I planned on replacing my windshield this year so maybe I'll keep them just in case. Also picked up the sunroof weather strip because, of course, that's also falling apart. Finally got a new jack and jackstands, too, so hopefully I can figure out a way to open my fucking hood and do an oil change. What an unbelievably stupid problem.

 

[foodtruck]

Drove It to work trying NOT to go above 4k until the clutch is broke in.

You know, I honestly don't understand the reason, you're not breaking the engine in. Peak torque comes up earlier than 4k so they can't argue its because you wait for surface to get more grabby? I understand if they tell you not to dump 1-2 shifts past 4k but I don't see why you can't just rev it in same gear. And you can also just... not dump the clutch while upshifting and, yeah, maybe downshift at lower RPMs for a while and don't do launches.

 

[rallytaff]

Replaced my crumbling and withering windshield moldings. Didn't realize the retainers were in there in the manner they are because they absolutely do not need to be replaced, though I guess they might for a windshield replacement? I dunno. I planned on replacing my windshield this year so maybe I'll keep them just in case. Also picked up the sunroof weather strip because, of course, that's also falling apart. Finally got a new jack and jackstands, too, so hopefully I can figure out a way to open my fucking hood and do an oil change. What an unbelievably stupid problem.

You don't need to replace the retainers. I replaced the rubber in mine a few weeks ago.

 

[Business6]

You don't need to replace the retainers. I replaced the rubber in mine a few weeks ago.

I know that now but it was frequently mentioned with the moldings, unless you meant when replacing the windshield, haha.

 

[rallytaff]

I know that now but it was frequently mentioned with the moldings, unless you meant when replacing the windshield, haha.

If you wanted to replace the retainers, you have to remove and replace the windshield. I didn't have to do that.

 

[the duke]

Snagged this for a buck twenty. Brand new.