Lightweight (lithium-ion) battery

[eagle]

Using an Odyssey PC680 twice for my daily and both lasting one year each without any major weight losses 15.65 pounds
I decided to search for a lithium alternative and found the ELTX20H from EXIDE

Battery capacity 7.0 Ah
Battery CCA 380.0 A
Battery layout L+
Battery energy 84.0 Wh
Battery weight 3.7 pounds


Is anyone using such a small / or lightweight battery such as this one?
I have read somewhere (dont know if its true) that there may be power loss when fitting such a small battery? Is that even possible?

other alternative that have seen in a few youtube car-builds and has the same weight:

Skyrich LFP-8

Battery capacity 8.0 Ah
Battery CCA 480.0 A

 

[XR650R]

I put one in my motorcycle. Works fine, and I definitely felt the 5 lbs. of weight loss. No experience with them in cars.

 

[eagle]

I put one in my motorcycle. Works fine, and I definitely felt the 5 lbs. of weight loss. No experience with them in cars.

which one?

the primary use of the exide seems to be for HARLEY DAVIDSON FXST and HONDA VF 1100/1340

also found a video where a skyrich is used to power this

 

[XR650R]

which one?

the primary use of the exide seems to be for HARLEY DAVIDSON FXST and HONDA VF 1100/1340

also found a video where a skyrich is used to power this

The Shorai seen here. https://procycle.us/model/suzuki/dr650/electrical
It was the same size as the stock battery. I didn't need to use foam pads to make it fit. It appears to cost a lot more now than I paid 3 years ago, which make sense.

 

[ronmcdon]

I used an antigravity unit for a few months and did lose quite a bit of weight up front. However at random the battery would lose charge, especially at driving events when I turned the car off and couldn't start it again. maybe it could have been the additional heat generated at track events that did this. however sometimes even driving to a track event that was less than 2 hours away, turning the car off, then trying to turn the car on the battery would be unresponsive.

In the end it was just too much of a hassle and I got rid of the battery. If I were to do it again, more tempted to relocate OEM battery to the rear and get better weight distribution, even if that's more labor intense and adds overall weight from the wiring.

 

[Dpro]

You need a battery of at least 16 amp hours that is more important than CCA which is battery companies marketing speak to sell people.
My friend has done a lot of research on this all of the batteries above would need to be maintained on a battery tender overnight.

 

[M-Sport fan]

You need a battery of at least 16 amp hours that is more important than CCA which is battery companies marketing speak to sell people.

Agreed, but maybe where you live the CCA means almost nothing, but it does have some significant relevance where I, and many others on here live.

 

[Capri to ST]

You need a battery of at least 16 amp hours that is more important than CCA which is battery companies marketing speak to sell people.
My friend has done a lot of research on this all of the batteries above would need to be maintained on a battery tender overnight.

Just for reference, the Advance Auto group 96R AGM battery which I got to replace the OEM battery is rated at 45 amp hours.

 

[CaptainCheesy]

But our cars require so many CCA.. and I fear that these don't really offer that. Unless I'm just stupid

 

[Bull Run]

I used an antigravity unit for a few months and did lose quite a bit of weight up front. However at random the battery would lose charge, especially at driving events when I turned the car off and couldn't start it again. maybe it could have been the additional heat generated at track events that did this. however sometimes even driving to a track event that was less than 2 hours away, turning the car off, then trying to turn the car on the battery would be unresponsive.

In the end it was just too much of a hassle and I got rid of the battery. If I were to do it again, more tempted to relocate OEM battery to the rear and get better weight distribution, even if that's more labor intense and adds overall weight from the wiring.

I had the same issue with Antigravity in a Mustang. It's ReStart feature along with the Ford's Smart Charge were the cause. Disabling the Smart Charge via Forscan helped but didn't completely resolve the issue, and the battery eventually ended up swelling and dying. I switched to no-frills Shorai over a year ago and no issues so far and ended up transplanting into the Fiesta: https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/bulls-daily-driver-build.28005/post-460723.

 

[eagle]

In some (online) calculators it says that 300cca are enough for 150cid (2.4L) of displacement

Ah are important if you want to power things with the ignition switch off I believe
but I also concur 7-8ah seem a little bit low for a d.d

 

[Alkoran]

In some (online) calculators it says that 300cca are enough for 150cid (2.4L) of displacement

Ah are important if you want to power things with the ignition switch off I believe
but I also concur 7-8ah seem a little bit low for a d.d

There's so much more than just displacement to take account for when you check how many CCA you need to start a car. CCA rating for batteries is at a fixed -18C. When you go below, you quickly reduce the real output of battery is giving. Not only that, it also depends on your engine compression ratio and to some extent, the weight and type (synthetic vs non synthetic) of oil you use. Also is your engine already warm or cold from the night?

 

[eagle]

I think most of the Fiestas here use the same oil 5w-30 have the same compression ratio and are used in temps hotter than -18c

I dont say you are wrong, I am just saying we are all on the same page here

 

[kevinatfms]

Id find the lightest battery with the most CCA available. The 480CCA in the Skyrich LFP-8 is an interesting one as its 100cca more than the PC680 and much closer to the factory OE CCA rating. Ive never had good luck with the PC680's. They are just too small for todays engines to last longer than a year under any circumstances.

With that, my factory OE battery is going on 6 years without a single issue(which i just jinxed myself).

 

[CaptainCheesy]

I think most of the Fiestas here use the same oil 5w-30 have the same compression ratio and are used in temps hotter than -18c

I dont say you are wrong, I am just saying we are all on the same page here

Not sure where you're at, but in the US, Ford recommends that we use 5w-20 in our engines. I prefer 5w-30, no real difference to me.

 

[M-Sport fan]

There's so much more than just displacement to take account for when you check how many CCA you need to start a car. CCA rating for batteries is at a fixed -18C. When you go below, you quickly reduce the real output of battery is giving. Not only that, it also depends on your engine compression ratio and to some extent, the weight and type (synthetic vs non synthetic) of oil you use. Also is your engine already warm or cold from the night?

THIS, EXACTLY!!

 

[M-Sport fan]

Not sure where you're at, but in the US, Ford recommends that we use 5w-20 in our engines. I prefer 5w-30, no real difference to me.

It can get fairly 'warm' in the Mediterranean where eagle is located, without as harsh a winter as some of us get here in the northern parts of N.A.

So yeah, besides the slightly thicker cold oil not effecting his cold start up as much, the lower CCA ratings of a lightweight 'racing' battery would not carry quite as much importance as it does for some of us here for year round/daily driver duties.

 

[Fiestig]

I have had an antigravity re-start 680 for 3+ years now. No it is not in all of the time and yes it is always on a tender in or out when not in use. When in the car I can plug it in with the tender extension without taking the battery out. Feels like I am back in ND with a good ol block heater...lol. The restart feature is spectacular, but I will be going to their actual car battery series probably by summer.

 

[CaptainCheesy]

It can get fairly 'warm' in the Mediterranean where eagle is located, without as harsh a winter as some of us get here in the northern parts of N.A.

So yeah, besides the slightly thicker cold oil not effecting his cold start up as much, the lower CCA ratings of a lightweight 'racing' battery would not carry quite as much importance as it does for some of us here for year round/daily driver duties.

I actually had to buy a new battery this winter myself. The factory Motorcraft battery gave out after only 2 years, which is why I don't use Motorcraft parts for much of anything. Bought a Duralast Gold I think, has a few more CCA. It'll get swapped out after a year or two and sold because I will need to switch to a racing battery for Project: Under Ice.