2nd pair of rotors in 6 months - am I doing it wrong?

[358R]

Cliff's notes are:
-installed new rotors and pads on (O'Reilly's parts if it matters) after buying the car. They were all shot, especially the front...warped and pads were on the squeakers.
-After the install, no issues for about 2-3 months.
-After that, started noticing shaking again. Fronts are shot, again. So, new pads and rotors are coming. It's only been about 6 months.

This is probably the 5th or 6th time ever installed rotors and pads. I feel like I'm fairly competent. I have a list that I use and go step by step. So, am I doing something wrong or does the FiST just wear them out that fast? I'm a grandpa driver at best. Don't wait to the last second to brake. Come to think of it, I've never had to change rotors this fast before.

Any ideas/comments of something common or easy that I might be missing or doing wrong? Ask away.

 

[Magnetic]

F

 

[rcarbajal4]

Definitely not normal. Have you checked the calipers themselves?

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[358R]

Definitely not normal. Have you checked the calipers themselves?

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No. Look for sticking or something? Maybe I didn't compress them enough?

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Cliff's notes are:
-installed new rotors and pads on (O'Reilly's parts if it matters) after buying the car. They were all shot, especially the front...warped and pads were on the squeakers.
-After the install, no issues for about 2-3 months.
-After that, started noticing shaking again. Fronts are shot, again. So, new pads and rotors are coming. It's only been about 6 months.

This is probably the 5th or 6th time ever installed rotors and pads. I feel like I'm fairly competent. I have a list that I use and go step by step. So, am I doing something wrong or does the FiST just wear them out that fast? I'm a grandpa driver at best. Don't wait to the last second to brake. Come to think of it, I've never had to change rotors this fast before.

Any ideas/comments of something common or easy that I might be missing or doing wrong? Ask away.

Which brand of Oreally's? Quit buying filth from them and go to Rock Auto.

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[358R]

Which brand of Oreally's? Quit buying filth from them and go to Rock Auto.

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Whatever the cheap, low end shiz was. Maybe that's my issue. Would you trust anybody else that would be local as opposed to online? Your options are:
1) Advanced
2) Napa
3) Autozone
4) Filth, er, O'Reilly

 

[Jabbit]

Rock Auto or OEM Ford parts counter if you don't want to shop online. Also define "shot" - pads complete worn, scarring on rotors, vibration, etc.

 

[358R]

Rock Auto or OEM Ford parts counter if you don't want to shop online. Also define "shot" - pads complete worn, scarring on rotors, vibration, etc.

A lot of vibration. Seems like I remember scarring...I think from pads being completely gone. I have the old pair sitting around somewhere. I'll check when I get home.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

All caliper pins must be Grease to ensure longevity of pad life and proper operation of the calipers. Front and back should be greased at the same time. The rears need to be checked at least 1 a yr due to their ability to seize and allow caliper failure along with pads and rotor wear at a faster rate.

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[Ford ST]

The parts you are using are the problem. The brake rotors are not warping. The brake pads are leaving a uneven buildup of pad material on the rotor surface.

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[358R]

Also, every now and then, out of the blue when i brake, it won't do it at all. Usually after if i pump the brakes a few times on the way down through the gears. Fluke?

 

[ronmcdon]

another option is to go with Stoptech rotors where I get from Ron @ Whoosh but others sell them too like FSWERKS.

https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopify.com/collections/ford-fiesta-st-suspension?page=2

only con is they're pricey but very durable. they've taken a lot of abuse with aggressive hawk dtc30 pads for street and track duty. no warping whatsoever.
have my fingers crossed they'll survive my second set of pads.

 

[SteveS]

O'Reilly sells Motorcraft discs and pads for the Fiesta. You want the ones listed as "with rear disc brakes, High Level Service Design". They also have both versions of the Motorcraft pads. You want to look for "with rear disc" and then you choose between the ones that came with the all season tires or not. They are not cheap.

Also, after you install them, you need to properly bed the pads in. If you don't do that they won't last as long and won't stop as well.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Also, after you install them, you need to properly bed the pads in. If you don't do that they won't last as long and won't stop as well.

I've always wondered just how the factory does this on a new car before delivery to the dealer, (on powered rollers??), or don't they do anything at all, and it still turns out OK?

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Rotors

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...ocharged,3436081,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896

Pads

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...rged,3436081,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+pad,1684

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[meGrimlock]

Rotors are just chunks of iron. Most consumer or retail "brands" are 3rd tier reboxed chunks of iron anyway. There are only so many rotor manufacturers in the world and I've found no discernable differences. What you are paying for in a name brand is QA, distinct metallurgy (ie. high carbon), anti-rust coating or paint, and drilled or slotted "speed holes." Same idea with consumer brake pads, you don't really know what you're getting unless you know the brand really well.

I agree with Ford ST, most judder or what people think are warped rotor feeling is usually due to uneven transfer layer. Scuff the rotor contact surfaces with emery cloth or sandpaper and repeat the bedding procedure and see if that helps.

How many miles did you put on the 6 months? If your pads are completely worn to the backing material are the calipers or caliper slide pins seized? You would notice smoke or the car steering in one direction over another.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

The parts you are using are the problem. The brake rotors are not warping. The brake pads are leaving a uneven buildup of pad material on the rotor surface.

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Actual warping happens at Temps of 1750°-2000° and with warping comes pad destruction/ separation of the backing plate and adhesive on pad material. Usually when rotors become "warped" they just are out of round. You can use a micrometer and measure them at different points around and across the rotors surface. Sometimes rotors can be turned back into spec and are defined as being True. But now these days not many manufacturers use multiple use rotors that can be turned and still kept in spec and avoid discard. They are a one time use* it's a sad thing the one time use consumers we have become. Vs. In the past where things were able to be reused/resurfaced instead of one time use.

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[358R]

Rotors are just chunks of iron. Most consumer or retail "brands" are 3rd tier reboxed chunks of iron anyway. There are only so many rotor manufacturers in the world and I've found no discernable differences. What you are paying for in a name brand is QA, distinct metallurgy (ie. high carbon), anti-rust coating or paint, and drilled or slotted "speed holes." Same idea with consumer brake pads, you don't really know what you're getting unless you know the brand really well.

I agree with Ford ST, most judder or what people think are warped rotor feeling is usually due to uneven transfer layer. Scuff the rotor contact surfaces with emery cloth or sandpaper and repeat the bedding procedure and see if that helps.

How many miles did you put on the 6 months? If your pads are completely worn to the backing material are the calipers or caliper slide pins seized? You would notice smoke or the car steering in one direction over another.

Probably 6k miles. I'll have to check these pads when i pull them. No smoking, but car does pull left a little under hard braking.

 

[Old Mike Emerson]

Check the soft lines to the caliper, I have seen them go bad with age, the inside can come apart causing the caliper to not fully release. Just something to check. Feel the line for soft spots.

 

[Ford ST]

This is a common issue on the Kia stinger and Genesis G70. Why does this happen on those cars pad material. Let's not overcomplicate this there is a 99.9% chance the brake pads are the problem. He is using bottom of the barrel part store pads they are garbage this is what they do. I have done a lot of brake jobs in my life, and I'm good at it. Brake pad choice is extremely important. You can get the OEM summer tire pads from Rockauto front and rear for $100. Remember the 2 golden rules of brake jobs clean and lubricate. Dry and dirty is always a bad idea.

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