Turbo Technics S280

[dhminer]

geez... that's not good at all..

I’m on OEM summer tires I’m hoping they work ok for 3rd gear pulls. Will let you guys know

 

[dhminer]

Keep in mind people there are NO EFFICIENCY charts available for these to know if you're over spinning the Turbo. So sticking with the stock Actuator might be the best option.

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One of my biggest worries going to this from 2860. I’m assuming, maybe highly incorrectly, that Peron’s S284 kit was developed with TT’s input and confirmation they were operating within the turbos efficiency range. Would mean stock fuel system and pump gas is acceptable but anything else is a guessing game.

 

[AzNightmare]

Sorry, kind of off topic but I'm getting my S280 and dp installed soon.
I have a 3" downpipe and a 2.5" exhaust.
I bought the vibrant adapter kit (from whoosh) and it came with a gasket and this plate, but the plate seems too small. Anyone have an idea how to put this setup together? Or can I just ditch the plate and just use the 2.5" gasket?

Anyone else have suggestions on putting together a 3" dp to 2.5" exhaust so that it seals up with no leaks?

 

[Dpro]

One of my biggest worries going to this from 2860. I’m assuming, maybe highly incorrectly, that Peron’s S284 kit was developed with TT’s input and confirmation they were operating within the turbos efficiency range. Would mean stock fuel system and pump gas is acceptable but anything else is a guessing game.

Stock fuel system and pump gas is fine . You are not getting Peron’s tune for it if that is what you are thinking. Their Tune was for the Euro ECU not ours. You will be tuning it with your AP and a tuner like the rest of us. I considered the Peron kit and the only reason I did not get it was availability at the time. Plus I had the TS blowoff valve already and I bought the TS 14lb wastegate. The Turbo works fine with the 14lb wastegate actuator it says tuneplus on the box because Adam did a lot of testing with it before recommending it. Both Ron and Adam recommend it for the Turbo do not let anyone tell you it might cause issues or might not be safe.

 

[MagnetiseST]

Keep in mind people there are NO EFFICIENCY charts available for these to know if you're over spinning the Turbo. So sticking with the stock Actuator might be the best option.

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We will be keeping the stock actuator on the replacement turbo for the race car.

 

[MagnetiseST]

Keep in mind people there are NO EFFICIENCY charts available for these to know if you're over spinning the Turbo. So sticking with the stock Actuator might be the best option.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

We will be keeping the stock actuator on the replacement turbo for the race car.

The Turbo works fine with the 14lb wastegate actuator it says tuneplus on the box because Adam did a lot of testing with it before recommending it. Both Ron and Adam recommend it for the Turbo do not let anyone tell you it might cause issues or might not be safe.

I firmly believe that the only reason Adam requires the use of these actuators is to get the same results out of every turbo. I do not think there is any real benefit to them as far as power goes, when I was tuned by CPE (with an S280) we maxed out the fuel system way before the wastegate actuator.

I will also reserve my judgement on these until TT replies with their belief of what caused the turbo to fail.

 

[Dpro]

We will be keeping the stock actuator on the replacement turbo for the race car.



I firmly believe that the only reason Adam requires the use of these actuators is to get the same results out of every turbo. I do not think there is any real benefit to them as far as power goes, when I was tuned by CPE (with an S280) we maxed out the fuel system way before the wastegate actuator.

I will also reserve my judgement on these until TT replies with their belief of what caused the turbo to fail.

Consistency is important. If the stock actuator was not acting the same way on all the tunes given the same parameters for the tunes that suggests the the actuator is inconsistent and therefor possibly not reliable . . If what you believe is true then it backs up Adams and Ron’s suggestion to use the TS actuator.

I can only say that we probably do not have the kind of experience he has achieved tuning this turbo. So we can only surmise. I will say I can deduce what I have written above based off whats been stated.

 

[Woods247]

Consistency is important. If the stock actuator was not acting the same way on all the tunes given the same parameters for the tunes that suggests the the actuator is inconsistent and therefor possibly not reliable . . If what you believe is true then it backs up Adams and Ron’s suggestion to use the TS actuator.

I can only say that we probably do not have the kind of experience he has achieved tuning this turbo. So we can only surmise. I will say I can deduce what I have written above based off whats been stated.

Has the stock actuator been proven unreliable and problematic? If so, what are its weaknesses? Sorry if this has been answered elsewhere.

 

[Dpro]

Has the stock actuator been proven unreliable and problematic? If so, what are its weaknesses? Sorry if this has been answered elsewhere.

I will say I was told it was an issue . I will say having said that the typical naysayers on the forum will come out of the wood work just because I uttered those words. They love to shoot messengers around here.
jokes aside I do not know beyond what I was told . Mag is definitely suggesting that could be the reason with his hypothesis as to way Adam and Ron recommend it.
It could also be that it just does not hold boost beyond say 26psi with the stock actuator.
Per previous threads about other UK turbo’s fact is in the UK they do not push as much boost as we tend to do here.
That has been stated by certain UK companies and found to be somewhat true.

which leads to the summation…
It could be that because U.S. boost heads tend to go crazy on boost you need a better actuator than stock.

Changing actuators on Turbo’s is not as uncommon as some may think.

Its done all the time and has been for years. So when I was advised to do it I thought nothing of it. I will also add my Turbo runs great and the extra buck and half or so of change did not break my bank so why not. I will also add though the Peron kit comes with the TS 14lb actuator which is interesting as well as they are a UK company and sell it in the UK with their tune and that actuator.

Which brings one to suppose that A: the stock actuator is not consistent per my theory based off mag summations. Of course and B: My thought that indeed the stock actuator will not hold as much boost as the turbo is capable of.
After all Peron is a pretty trusted company in the UK.

 

[dhminer]

Sorry, kind of off topic but I'm getting my S280 and dp installed soon.
I have a 3" downpipe and a 2.5" exhaust.
I bought the vibrant adapter kit (from whoosh) and it came with a gasket and this plate, but the plate seems too small. Anyone have an idea how to put this setup together? Or can I just ditch the plate and just use the 2.5" gasket?

Anyone else have suggestions on putting together a 3" dp to 2.5" exhaust so that it seals up with no leaks?

I had the vibrant for the same purpose, never had an issue. The hole is small yes and it creates a restriction. Just make it face the right direction and you’ll be fine.

 

[AzNightmare]

I had the vibrant for the same purpose, never had an issue. The hole is small yes and it creates a restriction. Just make it face the right direction and you’ll be fine.

Which downpipe do you have? After taking another look, correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't see the point of using that metal adapter plate...
The whoosh dp comes with an inner ring that fits just at the mouth of the outlet. Putting that ring in effectively changes the opening from 3" to 2.5"
Can't I now place a 2.5" gasket on top and bolt it up with my 2.5" exhaust and call it a day? Looks ok here.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Which downpipe do you have? After taking another look, correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't see the point of using that metal adapter plate...
The whoosh dp comes with an inner ring that fits just at the mouth of the outlet. Putting that ring in effectively changes the opening from 3" to 2.5"
Can't I now place a 2.5" gasket on top and bolt it up with my 2.5" exhaust and call it a day? Looks ok here.

Sure* I will seal just fine after it heat cycles a couple times and the bolts are Tightened down.

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[MagnetiseST]

Which brings one to suppose that A: the stock actuator is not consistent per my theory based off mag summations. Of course and B: My thought that indeed the stock actuator will not hold as much boost as the turbo is capable of.
After all Peron is a pretty trusted company in the UK.

I'm leaning towards B, it is designed to not overspin the turbo and at the same time limits the output of holding higher boost until redline. To each their own though, I don't expect everyone to do what Ron / Adam says nor do I expect people to do the opposite.

Is the 14psi the same as the Tune+ spec one?

 

[dhminer]

Which downpipe do you have? After taking another look, correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't see the point of using that metal adapter plate...
The whoosh dp comes with an inner ring that fits just at the mouth of the outlet. Putting that ring in effectively changes the opening from 3" to 2.5"
Can't I now place a 2.5" gasket on top and bolt it up with my 2.5" exhaust and call it a day? Looks ok here.

I have whoosh v3 catless. Strange, I definitely needed the adapter but yours looks like you don’t. Looks like it’ll be just fine without it.

 

[AzNightmare]

Speaking of the actuator, what's the best way to preload it?

With limited research, it seems like the suggested method is all over the place, from 3mm or 4mm, from 2 full (360°) turns, to 4 full turns, and anything in between.
What did you guys do? I really prefer to do it right once with the turbo outside of the car, than have to tinker with it once the turbo is in the car.

The S280 also doesn't use a nut like the stock/hybrid turbo, so I'm not sure if turning the nut 3 full turns is applicable here.

 

[AzNightmare]

I have whoosh v3 catless. Strange, I definitely needed the adapter but yours looks like you don’t. Looks like it’ll be just fine without it.

While the whoosh dp seems to come with an inner ring piece that seems to convert the 3" dp to a 2.5" opening, the product only comes with a 3" gasket.

The vibrant adapter kit comes with an adapter plate (which looks like it's 2.15"~ diameter) and also a 2.5" gasket.
IMO, the plate is not useful here... maybe it's for an oem exhaust... ?

The 2.5" gasket that also comes with the Vibrant kit is what I've used in the picture. You'll need it if you're going from 3" dp to 2.5" exhaust.

I kind of wished I knew this ahead of time, cause the kit seems to be a bit pricy if I'm only buying it for a 2.5" gasket, lol.

 

[dhminer]

While the whoosh dp seems to come with an inner ring piece that seems to convert the 3" dp to a 2.5" opening, the product only comes with a 3" gasket.

The vibrant adapter kit comes with an adapter plate (which looks like it's 2.15"~ diameter) and also a 2.5" gasket.
IMO, the plate is not useful... maybe it's for an oem exhaust...

The 2.5" gasket that also comes with the kit is what I've used in the picture. If you don't have this, then you'll need it if you're going from 3" dp to 2.5" exhaust.

I kind of wished I knew this ahead of time, cause the kit seems to be a bit pricy if I'm only buying it for a 2.5" gasket, lol.

No kidding. Maybe a new design? I have a full 3" exhaust now but when I had the whoosh v3 downpipe and a Cobb 2.5" cat back I definitely needed the adapter.

 

[dhminer]

We will be keeping the stock actuator on the replacement turbo for the race car.



I firmly believe that the only reason Adam requires the use of these actuators is to get the same results out of every turbo. I do not think there is any real benefit to them as far as power goes, when I was tuned by CPE (with an S280) we maxed out the fuel system way before the wastegate actuator.

I will also reserve my judgement on these until TT replies with their belief of what caused the turbo to fail.

How much boost were you running on the one that failed?

 

[DmacsFiesta]

Eh, I think 200 tw tires is overkill for third gear pulls, logs start at 3k RPMs. Firehawk Indy 500s are 340 tw and I can do 3rd all day with the completed e30 tune, just make sure the tires are warm by driving around for a bit.

 

[wetwea33]

We will be keeping the stock actuator on the replacement turbo for the race car.



I firmly believe that the only reason Adam requires the use of these actuators is to get the same results out of every turbo. I do not think there is any real benefit to them as far as power goes, when I was tuned by CPE (with an S280) we maxed out the fuel system way before the wastegate actuator.

I will also reserve my judgement on these until TT replies with their belief of what caused the turbo to fail.

I think you could get away with the supplied actuator on thr stock fuel system just fine. You won't push more then 26psi sustained up top really anyhow. Anyrhing over that boost level it will struggle to hold boost up top.

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