Engine Replacement Questions

[Dash]

I ended up buying a forum members Fiesta ST with a blown motor.

I found a 2014 Escape engine locally I'm planning on swapping in. When the blown engine is out, I plan to replace the clutch/flywheel. Unfortunately, I am not too familiar with the Fiesta ST thus not really knowing which parts are hard to reach and replace. What should I replace on the 'new' used motor before bolting it back in?

Also, just want to confirm the 2014 Escape 1.6 EcoBoost will mount up with no issues right (Exhaust manifold, ECU, etc)? If not, what parts will I need to make it all work?

Thank you all

 

[DoomsdayMelody]

The Fiesta is a small car, with a small (dimensionally speaking) engine. The biggest headaches to get at once the motor is in is anything on the exhaust manifold side (ie, the turbo) everything else is relatively straightforward, and everything on the front of the engine can be reached relatively easily with enough swear words and bruised/cut knuckles.

I personally haven't swapped an Escape 1.6 EB into a FiST, but IIRC a few other forum members have and as long as the update has been done (or will be done by you during the swap) it should work out fine. If I were you, I'd get a variety pack of different colored zip ties and use matching colors on all the electrical connectors you have on the blown motor and the corresponding wires that attach to them, and then when the blown motor is out copy the zip ties that are on the sensors to the escape engine so that when you go back together everything will be really straightforward.

 

[Dash]

Thanks for the reply. What update?

I've been taking out all of the cooling system components to see what went wrong to where the original engine overheated and ended up with a cracked block.

The weird part is the heater stopped working for the previous owner before the overheating. I wonder if a clogged heater core had something to do with it BUT I've always thought a clogged core wouldn't affect coolant circulation in the block.

Last thing I want is to have the new engine put in and having it overheat again.

 

[Dash]

Took the whole cooling system out and flushed the block and found no blockage in the block or heater core. The thermostat was stuck closed and the 2 coolant bypass valve looked in bad condition. I decided to remove the gates of the bypass valves. I put everything back together without the thermostat and the heater works again. Will do more testing later this week, but I think the thermostat was stuck closed and that's how the motor overheated.

 

[kivnul]

I think the update referenced above is about the coolant system recall. Engines made prior to 2016 had a flaw that prevented adequate cooling at a certain spot of the engine that could cause cracking of the head/block and subsequent coolant loss. The recall installs a coolant level monitor (does not actually address the cause of the problem as that would require major mechanical replacement which $$)

 

[TyphoonFiST]

It was mostly 2014 Engines* Not too many 15's had encountered the issue from what I gathered from a Service manager* @ Fomoco.

 

[Jabbit]

It was mostly 2014 Engines* Not too many 15's had encountered the issue from what I gathered from a Service manger @ Fomoco.

I'll likely find the limits once I start pushing my 2014 hard. Already have replacement ideas in the back of my mind if I get to that point.

 

[turpid porpoise]

I'll likely find the limits once I start pushing my 2014 hard. Already have replacement ideas in the back of my mind if I get to that point.

You and me both. I've considered buying one to have as a spare

 

[Jabbit]

You and me both. I've considered buying one to have as a spare

If you ever get a line on anything decent up in the Northeast, let me know. I'll keep an eye out in mid-atlantic as well.

 

[Dash]

After I took the thermostat off, I've been driving the car with no thermostat for about 200 miles (mostly canyon high RPM runs and freeway). It's not losing any water/coolant. No more white smoke out the tailpipe. Can anyone explain how that's possible? When the thermostat was stuck closed, the coolant was somehow getting pushed in and mixed with the oil/combustion chamber, so how is it not doing that now?

I know 200 miles is still very preliminary but it seems like I might not even need a swap.... Maybe wishful thinking. The car pulls strong but I will do a compression test soon and possibly a leak down.

 

[M-Sport fan]

'Self-curing' head gasket maybe? LOL

 

[Dash]

The only thing I can think of is that when the thermostat was stuck, the coolant was boiling in the block and getting pushed out of the micro fractures on these cylinder head (Seems like many pre-2016 1.6 EB had this problem with coolant loss). I think having the thermostat out allows the coolant to free flow and not PUSH out of the block?

I have no clue lol I'm still investigating.

 

[Dash]

 

[Jabbit]

Good numbers!

 

[Dash]

I'm totally lost but in a good way

 

[Jabbit]

That's the replacement engine right? You got it to crank so you have to be close to starting it.

 

[Dash]

No. This is the original engine which was thought to be "blown."

 

[Jabbit]

Oh dang, didn't realize that. This has potential to turn out great in your favor.

 

[Intuit]

Thermostat essentially blocks flow. It's possible that maybe the blockage has the impact of elevating the pressure slightly between the thermostat and water pump output.

But blown is blown. It is but a temporary reprieve. Previous vehicle had a hairline crack between the exhaust and coolant ports on cylinders two and three. I drove on that for 40k before it got bad enough for me to surrender to doing the work. I was kind of cheating with aluminum flakes in the coolant though; and as long as I stayed out of the accelerator too much it didn't much complain.

EDIT: BTW, coolant is reportedly bad for oxygen sensors and/or catalytic converters.

 

[kuvduvod]

While a Hyundai I30 engine might not be your first thought for an engine swap, it actually sounds like an interesting experiment. They make a decent amount of power and are generally reliable, which makes them a good candidate.