Are big turbos worthwhile and hows the reliabilitys

[Dpro]

I've been saving to build my own BT kit using Full-Race G25-550 and manifold along with ATP knick knacks. But I'm interested on what people have to say about the peron S284 and how it preformers.

Peron S284 is an S280 like I said above. Its a Euro/UK specific kit that if bought over there includes a tune for the S280 for their ECU’s. Over here we do not get the tune. So its a S280 kit with a turbosmart 14psi wastegate included and Peron pipes and hoses.

 

[gtx3076]

With a quality turbo (and both popular options seem to reliable) the only other thing that really makes a bigger turbo safe is the tune. Even a bad tune can vent your block on the stock turbo.

 

[ledzz]

The s280 has been bought guys thankyou for all responses

 

[ywgbandit]

I have the S280 and all the Whoosh intake and turbo piping and Whoosh FMIC. I would change one thing if I was to do it all over again....get a good radiator first! The stock Rad is insufficient for the stock engine IMO and extremely inadequate for a BT. The S280 is the perfect turbo for this car IMO....good bottom end without excessive wheel spin like a hybrid, spools maybe 500 - 600 rpm further up from stock but pulls hard all the way to 7K. No falling on it's face at 4500 rpm.

 

[gtx3076]

I have the S280 and all the Whoosh intake and turbo piping and Whoosh FMIC. I would change one thing if I was to do it all over again....get a good radiator first! The stock Rad is insufficient for the stock engine IMO and extremely inadequate for a BT. The S280 is the perfect turbo for this car IMO....good bottom end without excessive wheel spin like a hybrid, spools maybe 500 - 600 rpm further up from stock but pulls hard all the way to 7K. No falling on it's face at 4500 rpm.

What does the radiator have to do with the turbo.

 

[ywgbandit]

More power = more heat. It's just physics. The rad in these cars wasn't designed for North America or added horsepower. If you check you will find when most guys blow an engine (like I did) it is almost always #4 cylinder that is the issue because it is the hottest cylinder. In my case I was running pretty good boost going up a 7% grade for about 20 min when the piston let go. Since I installed my new engine with a 185F thermostat and my Mountune Radiator I haven't heard the cooling fans come on once, not even in traffic

 

[TemecFist]

Yes my first tuner was a local SoCal shop that has their own Mustang Dyno. I will not name names beyond that. I will say they are known of in the Ford community as well as other compact car communities. Needless to say I was not happy with the tune and went to Adam at Tune+ and the car has run great ever since.

SoCal? Dang.....now I REALLY want to know. Lol

 

[gtx3076]

More power = more heat. It's just physics. The rad in these cars wasn't designed for North America or added horsepower. If you check you will find when most guys blow an engine (like I did) it is almost always #4 cylinder that is the issue because it is the hottest cylinder. In my case I was running pretty good boost going up a 7% grade for about 20 min when the piston let go. Since I installed my new engine with a 185F thermostat and my Mountune Radiator I haven't heard the cooling fans come on once, not even in traffic

20 minutes of boost, and under load is a lot. The only other folks running their cars that hard for that long are likely taking their car to the track where they should not be running the most aggressive tune anyway. Race car setups need to be robust.

I'd say for the majority of BT owners the stock radiator should be fine, at least if it wasn't giving them issues on the stock turbo. I agree a cooler t-stat would probably be beneficial especially for folks in hotter climates.

 

[ywgbandit]

I wasn't running big boost, 4 th gear running the RPM up to keep the boost down. Just saying the Radiator core for this car was designed for the UK where the ambient air temps are lower and the driving distances much shorter. You start driving at 70+ mph on the freeway in 80 degree temps and you will see coolant numbers over 205F. I can't get mine over 195 with the Mountune Rad....and that's fine with me. I'm just saying if you are looking for a 100 hp gain over stock, you'd be wise to look at a better Rad as your first mod....might not be sexy, but it gives you a margin of safety and reliability. Changing out engines isn't fun.

 

[gtx3076]

I wasn't running big boost, 4 th gear running the RPM up to keep the boost down. Just saying the Radiator core for this car was designed for the UK where the ambient air temps are lower and the driving distances much shorter. You start driving at 70+ mph on the freeway in 80 degree temps and you will see coolant numbers over 205F. I can't get mine over 195 with the Mountune Rad....and that's fine with me. I'm just saying if you are looking for a 100 hp gain over stock, you'd be wise to look at a better Rad as your first mod....might not be sexy, but it gives you a margin of safety and reliability. Changing out engines isn't fun.

Based off similar discussions I may be an outlier, but I drive in 110 degree heat regularly in the summer and if I'm cruising steady my temps are about 185-195. I don't see 200's until I'm crawling in traffic, and I've never gone into limp mode. I run stock heat spark plugs and am 100% stock besides the dizzy custom 93 and E30 tunes.

I can't speak to what the previous owner did to the car but everything on it looks stock and the service history was nothing fancy.

I only argue against generalizations like yours because I don't agree with people's "supporting mod" lists because it can be really cost prohibitive or unnecessary and people that are new to modding don't know any better.

The only "supporting mod" anyone needs when upgrading their turbo is an accessport and custom tune. Tuners will simply tune around the limits of your hardware, they won't push more boost and add more timing if it's not making more power, or causing knock or corrections.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I basically agree with you overall on the aftermarket radiator thing (and I will have a Mountune installed in the near future).

But I disagree with the elevated coolant temps during steady state 6th gear highway distance runs, even at higher ambients, at least on mostly level roads.

I've been on 91 & 93 North heading up through Massachusetts, and Vermont/N.H. at the end of July in 90*F+ temps, doing a steady 75-80, and my coolant temps never went above 195*F, on the factory radiator, tune, and turbo.

Now I did have about 65% water in the system, and two bottles of the Kool-It additive in there, but that only helps so much.

 

[Dpro]

Based off similar discussions I may be an outlier, but I drive in 110 degree heat regularly in the summer and if I'm cruising steady my temps are about 185-195. I don't see 200's until I'm crawling in traffic, and I've never gone into limp mode. I run stock heat spark plugs and am 100% stock besides the dizzy custom 93 and E30 tunes.

I can't speak to what the previous owner did to the car but everything on it looks stock and the service history was nothing fancy.

I only argue against generalizations like yours because I don't agree with people's "supporting mod" lists because it can be really cost prohibitive or unnecessary and people that are new to modding don't know any better.

The only "supporting mod" anyone needs when upgrading their turbo is an accessport and custom tune. Tuners will simply tune around the limits of your hardware, they won't push more boost and add more timing if it's not making more power, or causing knock or corrections.

Ok I cannot keep my mouth shut any longer. Lets throw some facts out .

1. The cars radiator was designed for Europe and the UK and also a normally aspirated engine that does not generate as much heat as Turbo engines do.

2. Plastic end tank radiators can and do fail and sometimes in a quite spectacular way. Which could cause you to overheat and blow a headgasket. Our cars come stock with small plastic end tank radiators.

3. You own a 2014 which is actually prone to a overheating issue with the head that is not only documented its a recall.

4. These are not so much generalizations as a consensus of many owner who have experienced overheating with the stock radiator. Yes you and a few others are outliers.

5. Its a practical safety mod that is not prohibitively expensive like you try to say. If it is one should not be modding their car in the first place. Ya I said that.

In conclusion its you who seems to be making the generalization over what seems to be overwhelming majority of owners that seem to feel its a wise and practical safety mod.
Given the amount of FiST’ owners that do the Aluminum radiator mod.

You can take your chances and preach all day long but you are doing a lot of owners a disservice saying they do not need it. That in and of itself is more of an assumption . It is not gospel and to advise against the mod is doing people a disservice.

Sure you can say you did not need it. But to state because you did not does not mean others will not .
in otherwords Your mileage may vary.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

I NEVER had any issues with my Stock radiator also when it was in the FiST. I saw temps into 210's and that was it during the heat of 90's and A/c running max. Mine is a 2015 also. Now I have a Mountune Radiator in and haven't seen any temps Over 200 with the a/c on and stop and go traffic and when I do an nice 3rd or 4th gear pull to get it into the higher Mphs. Was the Radiator worth it...So far maybe. I will put it through its paces this summer and see its true colors.

 

[AzNightmare]

Are we talking about the necessity of an upgraded radiator for FiST's with stock turbos or with upgraded turbos? (or both?)

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Are we talking about the necessity of an upgraded radiator for FiST's with stock turbos or with upgraded turbos? (or both?)

A little bit of Both*

 

[Ford ST]

Ok I cannot keep my mouth shut any longer. Lets throw some facts out .

1. The cars radiator was designed for Europe and the UK and also a normally aspirated engine that does not generate as much heat as Turbo engines do.

2. Plastic end tank radiators can and do fail and sometime in a quite spectacular way. Which could cause you to overheat and blow a headgasket. Our cars come stock with small plastic end tank radiators.

3. You own a 2014 which is actually prone to a overheat issue with the head that is not only documented its a recall.

4. These are not so much generalizations as a consensus of many owner who have experienced overheating with the stock radiator. Yes you and a few others are outliers
5. Its a practical safety mod that is not prohibitively expensive like you try to say. If it is one should not be modding their car in the first place. Ya I said that.

In conclusion its you who seems to be making the generalization over what seems to be overwhelming majority of owners that seem to feel its a wise and practical safety mod.
Given the amount of FiST’ owners that do the Aluminum radiator mod.

You can take your chances and preach all day long but you are doing a lot of owners a disservice saying they do not need it. That in and of itself is more of an assumption . It is not gospel and to advise against the mod is dong people a disservice.

Sure you can say you did not need it. But to state because you did not does not mean others will not .
in otherwords Your mileage may vary.

Agree perfectly said.
If a radiator a part that is under $500 is a financial burden to you maybe a turbo is a bad idea.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[dhminer]

Ok I cannot keep my mouth shut any longer. Lets throw some facts out .

1. The cars radiator was designed for Europe and the UK and also a normally aspirated engine that does not generate as much heat as Turbo engines do.

2. Plastic end tank radiators can and do fail and sometime in a quite spectacular way. Which could cause you to overheat and blow a headgasket. Our cars come stock with small plastic end tank radiators.

3. You own a 2014 which is actually prone to a overheat issue with the head that is not only documented its a recall.

4. These are not so much generalizations as a consensus of many owner who have experienced overheating with the stock radiator. Yes you and a few others are outliers
5. Its a practical safety mod that is not prohibitively expensive like you try to say. If it is one should not be modding their car in the first place. Ya I said that.

In conclusion its you who seems to be making the generalization over what seems to be overwhelming majority of owners that seem to feel its a wise and practical safety mod.
Given the amount of FiST’ owners that do the Aluminum radiator mod.

You can take your chances and preach all day long but you are doing a lot of owners a disservice saying they do not need it. That in and of itself is more of an assumption . It is not gospel and to advise against the mod is dong people a disservice.

Sure you can say you did not need it. But to state because you did not does not mean others will not .
in otherwords Your mileage may vary.

My stock radiator was perfect in my 2016 but I put a Mountune prior to big turbo because, as others have said, more power = more heat.

Point #2 is why I have the Fiesta - My Infiniti's radiator had a catastrophic failure at the end tank. RIP engine.

 

[gtx3076]

Ok I cannot keep my mouth shut any longer. Lets throw some facts out .

1. The cars radiator was designed for Europe and the UK and also a normally aspirated engine that does not generate as much heat as Turbo engines do.

2. Plastic end tank radiators can and do fail and sometime in a quite spectacular way. Which could cause you to overheat and blow a headgasket. Our cars come stock with small plastic end tank radiators.

3. You own a 2014 which is actually prone to a overheat issue with the head that is not only documented its a recall.

4. These are not so much generalizations as a consensus of many owner who have experienced overheating with the stock radiator. Yes you and a few others are outliers
5. Its a practical safety mod that is not prohibitively expensive like you try to say. If it is one should not be modding their car in the first place. Ya I said that.

In conclusion its you who seems to be making the generalization over what seems to be overwhelming majority of owners that seem to feel its a wise and practical safety mod.
Given the amount of FiST’ owners that do the Aluminum radiator mod.

You can take your chances and preach all day long but you are doing a lot of owners a disservice saying they do not need it. That in and of itself is more of an assumption . It is not gospel and to advise against the mod is dong people a disservice.

Sure you can say you did not need it. But to state because you did not does not mean others will not .
in otherwords Your mileage may vary.

That's why I've always recommended a radiator upgrade.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[ywgbandit]

I see a radiator upgrade as a preventative measure. Probably not required on a stock engine, but it can't hurt either. I hate the way they make almost all OEM radiators with the plastic end caps. Like Dpro said, your mileage may vary. All I know is... a better Rad won't hurt anything and IMO it's money well spent if you are going to a BT. Just my opinion.

 

[AzNightmare]

lol, damn, I can barely afford my dp and turbo with my Canadian dollars.
Now I need a radiator too... =/