Erratic torque delivery after new actuator

[WaterMore]

Hi,

Looking for some advice if anyone can help?

I was having some serious idle issues in the past.
The car was eventually diagnosed with a bad actuator and wastegate solenoid.
I got an OE solenoid and a forge motorsport actuator with an updated spring.
The car is finally now idling ok after a lot of troubleshooting.
The car is tuned to roughly a stage 1.5 for all the world, I am an exhaust system short for full stage 2.

The issue is, and I will attach screenshots, boost itself builds perfectly fine. The torque stutters as it builds. It will be more clear in the graphs. But is very very noticeable in the driver's seat.

I have gotten the actuator tightened twice since installed for fear the wastegate was flapping. But I'm limited in where I live in ireland for getting this to pros to properly review.
But for the now, I'd just love for this to be resolved.

Here is a list of what the car has
k&n filter
mountune silicone boost pipes
mountune lower intercooler hard pip upgrade
mountune high flow induction hose
mountune coolant pipes
mountune intercooler
mountune mp215
vudu sound symposer delete
eibach pro springs 30mm drop
mountune short shifter
cobb rear engine mount
Forge Motorsports actuator
upgraded exhaust mounts
jtk custom remap for the hardware upgrades
Vudu magnetic sump nut
ngk spark plugs
gfb dv+ diverter valve
new wastegate solenoid
new top engine mount
new map sensor
new boost sensor
new purge valve breather system
new clutch
new seals and bearings in gearbox

 

[slopoke]

Does your new wastegate have the correct spring and correct preload that the tune was mapped for? I don't know if that will cause your issues, but since you are getting boost, the solenoid is doing it's job, the only other difference is the wastegate. Good luck.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Was the Wastegate pre-load set correctly? It's should be 3mm or 3 turns of the buckle.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

 

[WaterMore]

Does your new wastegate have the correct spring and correct preload that the tune was mapped for? I don't know if that will cause your issues, but since you are getting boost, the solenoid is doing it's job, the only other difference is the wastegate. Good luck.

I got the 13psi (purple) spring which is the next one up from stock spring. I brought the car to a local tuner who then mapped it for the new actuator.

It's strange because boost builds and holds perfectly. It's just the torque isn't smooth and drops off quickly.

Last week I cleaned panel filter and tightened all boost clamps too.

I also had a smoke test on the intake system to see was it sneaking out of somewhere that wasn't obvious and there was nothing leaking.

I've had the preload adjusted twice since install. The fear is over tightening it at this stage.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[WaterMore]

Was the Wastegate pre-load set correctly? It's should be 3mm or 3 turns of the buckle.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

I think this is the 64,000 dollar question. It wasn't fitted right after the install. However it has been adjusted twice since install. I didn't do the install, but I got instructions straight from forge and gave it mechanic.

 

[WaterMore]

Here is a little screen recording of 2 6th gear pulls.

 

[Dpro]

Here is a little screen recording of 2 6th gear pulls.

6th gear pulls? You should not be doing 6th gear pulls thats a good way to detonate your engine .
At least on this side of the pond tuners require pulls in 3rd or 4th gear. 6th is an overdrive gear and doing pulls in it bogs the hell out of your engine. Guys have blown their engines up trying to hit the turbo hard in 6th gear.

 

[FiSTY]

6th gear pulls? You should not be doing 6th gear pulls thats a good way to detonate your engine .
At least on this side of the pond tuners require pulls in 3rd or 4th gear. 6th is an overdrive gear and doing pulls in it bogs the hell out of your engine. Guys have blown their engines up trying to hit the turbo hard in 6th gear.

So... no more romping 6 for me! Tyty

 

[TyphoonFiST]

6th gear pulls? You should not be doing 6th gear pulls thats a good way to detonate your engine .
At least on this side of the pond tuners require pulls in 3rd or 4th gear. 6th is an overdrive gear and doing pulls in it bogs the hell out of your engine. Guys have blown their engines up trying to hit the turbo hard in 6th gear.

I think he means he did a complete rowing through the gears 2nd through 6th. NOT a pull in just 6th alone* That gear has nothing and is gutless. ALWAYS downshift into at least 4th if in 6th! But most of us already know this!

 

[WaterMore]

6th gear pulls? You should not be doing 6th gear pulls thats a good way to detonate your engine .
At least on this side of the pond tuners require pulls in 3rd or 4th gear. 6th is an overdrive gear and doing pulls in it bogs the hell out of your engine. Guys have blown their engines up trying to hit the turbo hard in 6th gear.

Interesting, I did not know that re 6th, it's good to know that now.

I did only do the 2 6th pulls for the sake of the video, and the car was doing a steady 50mph at the time and I rolled the throttle in.

I very much on purpose left the speedo off the data on the app due to the fact the road I was testing on had a limit of 50mph.

Thanks for the heads and I will keep that logged in my head

 

[XR650R]

From my tuner:
Pro Tip: DO NOT bog the car or lug the car around in 5th and 6th gear. If you are cruising and are at low RPMs (1600 RPMs, for example) in high gear and suddenly go WOT for whatever reason you are likely to see some negative spark correction. Doing this is very hard on the engine and is a bad idea. Please down shift if you need to accelerate quickly. If you are just needing to casually accelerate, applying light throttle in high gear is perfectly fine.

The erratic torque is probably just your engine cutting timing so it doesn't blow up.

 

[FiSTY]

I think he means he did a complete rowing through the gears 2nd through 6th. NOT a pull in just 6th alone* That gear has nothing and is gutless. ALWAYS downshift into at least 4th if in 6th! But most of us already know this!

That's what I thought too (6th being gutless)... but was playing around with my new setup (intercooler, intake, bov, Mountune tune) omw home from the shop... goosed it in 6th. Ended up spinning tires and torque steer nearly jerked me out of my lane 🙀. I'll temper that statement with "I've got crap tires"... but still.

 

[FORZDA 2]

Hi,

Looking for some advice if anyone can help?

….

Log the APP, ETC Actual, Boost, Load Actual, and Load Desired Torque Control on one of your pulls and post the .csv file from the AP.

 

[WaterMore]

Sixth gear pulls for a video aside, unfortunately this is still happening in every gear.

My plan was to get a mk8 this year. But I've paid for new clutch, gearbox rebuild (bearing's), discs and pads all round, battery, servicing, crossover pipe and tyre's. So I'm about 3k for this year alone and deposit gone for new car on the above.

So unfortunately I need to double down and keep it 😃

Would you think it would be turbo? Now that I am doubling down and keeping I am toying with the idea of an s280 turbo.

 

[FORZDA 2]

If you logged the PIDs I asked earlier, I may can tell you the exact problem...

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^They do not get the Cobb APs over there on the Emerald Isle (but maybe they have other means of monitoring those PIDs available?? ).

 

[WaterMore]

No, the Cobb APs would be very hard to get here. The cars in general are difficult enough to buy with our stupid tax system on importing cars. There is very little available in the country with servicing and upgrading, my local ford dealership every time I went over they would say "we've never ordered one of these before" but UK isn't too far, but Brexit has put an end to that life line being cheap but it still exists.

I will be honest forzda , I tried my best to get PIDs from the torque pro app, however even though I work in IT I gave up trying to figure it out due to laziness 😂

I can say with all honesty that this is thankfully now resolved.

I was watching all I could in graph view every time I went for a drive in the car. I could clearly see the spikes and drips then when lifting off and accelerating.

I had thought throttle body, but there was one thing that was in my mind all the time and for the sake of 25 euro/30 dollar part I thought I would replace the cam bucket/ tappet / plunger in the high pressure pump. In my mind it was a snake oil product, and when I removed the old (pics attached) this confirmed my belief.

But.

The car is night and day in the difference in how it was to how it is from one tiny little part. A part in my eyes didn't even seem worn.

With 75,000 miles on the clock on my car I would advise anyone I know to now with one of these cars to do it at minimum 50k miles.

The boost is as clean as it could be now with torque building as it should.

Thanks for help.

 

[LilPartyBox]

Glad I poked my head in here! Mine has been feeling sluggish and a bit rough under load even after a full tune up. Ordering a cam bucket tmw.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I've wondered; at what point is the CAM lobe itself, which contacts/actuates this tappet, too worn to function properly, even with a brand new tappet installed?

 

[FORZDA 2]

Hmmmm? Glad you got your problem solved for now. However, those cam followers are not “wear” items that need replacement, UNLESS there is a problem with the motor oil. I don’t know the quality/availability of synthetic oils there, but it needs more zinc for those high/pressure lubrication points. What oil you running?