Looking at Passenger side engine mounts.

[FiSTer17]

New here, and forgive me if this topic has been brought up before, I looked around and didn't see it. I am needing a new passenger side engine mount for my 2017 Fiesta ST. The factory one was defective, and from what I've read, that isn't unusual. I purchased what I thought was a factory replacement, but turned out to be a cheap Chinese knockoff from partsgeek, and that too is causing and extreme amount of vibration. Enough to rattle body panels and the hood and all around sound like dog poo. So here I am looking at buying aftermarket quality parts. My question is, what is the best quality passenger side mount, giving me a decent upgrade over factory, yet retaining a good amount of vibration dampening? I don't race, or autocross my car, just a daily driver that I enjoy "spirited" driving in.

 

[Ford ST]

Does not exist. The OEM part will always be the best for vibration control.

You can go to a performance based engine mount they are good quality but it's going to add vibration over OEM. Some people are more sensitive to vibrations than others and you sound like maybe you fit that profile.

If you want a performance one this is the one you want.
https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...de-uprated-engine-mount-fast-road-competition

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[Rocketst]

Check out tasca parts. They supply the oem replacements made specifically by the manufacturer.

Here's a link.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-part...9Zmllc3RhJnk9MjAxNyZ0PXN0JmU9MS02bC1sNC1nYXM=

60 bucks is a shit ton better than the prices for aftermarket mounts.

Sent from my IN2019 using Tapatalk

 

[Rocketst]

Aftermarket parts, minimum your gonna be looking at double that price. And it won't solve your concern.

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[PunkST]

The fast road compound vibratechnics mount is pretty tame, and frankly a damn good part. Its barely harsher than stock imo, and way better than a cheap knock off of a factory mount.

 

[LilPartyBox]

I just ordered a pass mount from Tasca for $66 on 1/12/2021...I still don't have it. Tasa parts shipping has always been 4-6 weeks no matter what i ordered. The oem rear rotors i got over the summer took 5 weeks! I'm ordering from https://www.bluespringsfordparts.com/ from now on. A bit more expensive but the wait is a lot shorter.

I'm using the Powerflex inserts to stiffin them up a bit but i don't think NVH will get to the level of the full blown aftermarket replacements.

 

[Irish]

Yes OEM replacement is your best option check out this one https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-mount-8v5z6038d this may help absorb the vibration and shock from the motor.

 

[LiftedCulture]

Going from an OEM mount replacement to a Vibratechnics mount, I would recommend the street spec mount as I've had agret experience so far.

 

[LilPartyBox]

Installed the oem mounts with powerflex and the NVH is next to none. My shifts feel great and it even steers and stops better. Overall, the car feel so much more solid. Glad this kind of feel can be achieved without being overly spendy.

 

[Dpro]

Installed the oem mounts with powerflex and the NVH is next to none. My shifts feel great and it even steers and stops better. Overall, the car feel so much more solid. Glad this kind of feel can be achieved without being overly spendy.

see how long the Powerflex ring holds. I hear the Viton rings are better. The older ones would break and you would have to zip tie them which usually slipped off over time.

 

[PunkST]

^ that reason alone is why i went with the vibratechnics.

 

[LilPartyBox]

see how long the Powerflex ring holds. I hear the Viton rings are better. The older ones would break and you would have to zip tie them which usually slipped off over time.

I left the ring in place and zipped tied it along the bottom before installing. The zip tie doesn't have anywhere to slip to as it's in contact with the mount's body. I also did that because I suspect running a zip tie ABOVE the supplied ring would likely wear the ring prematurely. At any rate, if it does happen to fail somehow, I'll just zip tie again without removing the mount. Not a big deal.

^ that reason alone is why i went with the vibratechnics.

Definitely not a big enough deal to pay double to replace my upper mounts. For the price of a single vibra mount i upgraded both. You could argue that vibra mounts are stiffer and better quality, and I would agree. But then again I'll never track my car and don't need the extra performance they offer. But your reason isn't performance, just the perceived inconvenience of the zip tie that may or may not fail. Not at all worth paying double.

I may change my tune when I go hybrid but even then, i feel the powerflex setup will suffice for my driving style.

 

[Pablo Pistoffo]

New here, and forgive me if this topic has been brought up before, I looked around and didn't see it. I am needing a new passenger side engine mount for my 2017 Fiesta ST. The factory one was defective, and from what I've read, that isn't unusual. I purchased what I thought was a factory replacement, but turned out to be a cheap Chinese knockoff from partsgeek, and that too is causing and extreme amount of vibration. Enough to rattle body panels and the hood and all around sound like dog poo. So here I am looking at buying aftermarket quality parts. My question is, what is the best quality passenger side mount, giving me a decent upgrade over factory, yet retaining a good amount of vibration dampening? I don't race, or autocross my car, just a daily driver that I enjoy "spirited" driving in.

Do you have an aftermarket rear motor mount?
I have a theory that stiffer RMMs redirect the energy that was being absorbed by the stock mount into the two remaining mounts, and this causes premature wear and failure. I could be wrong, though. Based on this theory, I went with PowerFlex inserts with ziptie reinforcements on the two upper mounts, and a Whoosh street RMM. It vibrates and makes noise, but has been holding up well.

 

[PunkST]

I left the ring in place and zipped tied it along the bottom before installing. The zip tie doesn't have anywhere to slip to as it's in contact with the mount's body. I also did that because I suspect running a zip tie ABOVE the supplied ring would likely wear the ring prematurely. At any rate, if it does happen to fail somehow, I'll just zip tie again without removing the mount. Not a big deal.



Definitely not a big enough deal to pay double to replace my upper mounts. For the price of a single vibra mount i upgraded both. You could argue that vibra mounts are stiffer and better quality, and I would agree. But then again I'll never track my car and don't need the extra performance they offer. But your reason isn't performance, just the perceived inconvenience of the zip tie that may or may not fail. Not at all worth paying double.

I may change my tune when I go hybrid but even then, i feel the powerflex setup will suffice for my driving style.

I dont like adding failure points to an already ill equipped part. Between the weak factory bolt and soft rubber it just made more sense to do it once that way. Knowing my luck it would have failed otherwise.

 

[LilPartyBox]

Can't argue with that. May I not be the hard lesson you avoided **fingers crossed** lol

 

[The_Ryan]

Do you have an aftermarket rear motor mount?
I have a theory that stiffer RMMs redirect the energy that was being absorbed by the stock mount into the two remaining mounts, and this causes premature wear and failure. I could be wrong, though. Based on this theory, I went with PowerFlex inserts with ziptie reinforcements on the two upper mounts, and a Whoosh street RMM. It vibrates and makes noise, but has been holding up well.

Engineer here: You are not wrong. You are 100% right. less deflection at one point will cause more deflection at others, some points of which may not be able to take it. You're not changing the amount of force the motor mounts see, you're just changing where it goes. With full stiff mounts it goes right to the bolts holding the mounts together which is why some people experience snapped bolts on their motor mounts. Especially if they don't use a torque wrench to properly torque things.

That's a very simplified version, and there's a lot more to it, and I left out a bunch of details and other things so to all the pedants out there: don't come at me. I'm not going to give a lecture on mechanics and elements of design. (for free at least)

 

[M-Sport fan]

Does anyone make grade 10.9/12.9 (or whatever is the least brittle, highest yield/shear PSI) grade bolts for our power train/drive train mount apps?

 

[The_Ryan]

Does anyone make grade 10.9/12.9 (or whatever is the least brittle, highest yield/shear PSI) grade bolts for our power train/drive train mount apps?

McMaster-Carr. Just need to match the thread pitch & bolt length and bolt shape. Though be advised required torque may be different than if you were using OEM hardware

 

[tri-pedaler]

Resurrecting this thread - thinking of refreshing my PSMM since the whoosh RMM is transferring more NVH that direction and fatiguing it.

How have folks liked the vibra technics insert with a stock mount after a few years?

 

[Dialcaliper]

Does anyone make grade 10.9/12.9 (or whatever is the least brittle, highest yield/shear PSI) grade bolts for our power train/drive train mount apps?

If you look closely, most of the critical bolts are already marked class 10.9, some of them even torque to yield on top of that, just kind of undersized for cost savings.

In fact the passenger mount main bolt that’s famous for breaking is already 10.9, which is why whoosh sells an ARP replacement instead of a more normal 10.9/12.9 bolt.