Are all sub-$1k coilovers the same?

[Jabbit]

Looking at Bilsteins, BC Racing, ISC, etc...what's the difference? Are KWv3's or FA 510s really twice as good as the Bilsteins? My car will be a track car for hpde and similar, with warm weather weekend drives. Don't really care if it's a harsh ride. Also I don't want to constantly fiddle with it. More of a set it and forget it thing. I'm running 205 re71r tires with the hope to go up to 225 or even 245 later in the year. Thoughts?

 

[CSM]

Looking at Bilsteins, BC Racing, ISC, etc...what's the difference? Are KWv3's or FA 510s really twice as good as the Bilsteins? My car will be a track car for hpde and similar, with warm weather weekend drives. Don't really care if it's a harsh ride. Also I don't want to constantly fiddle with it. More of a set it and forget it thing. I'm running 205 re71r tires with the hope to go up to 225 or even 245 later in the year. Thoughts?

Bilsteins are nicely built, a league of their own for the price IMO, but the B14s are the only thing they offer on our cars and Its more of a sporty setup than something suited for a lot of track use. one of the reasons I'm switching to FA500s soon.

KWs are generally premium coilovers but there have been quality and longevity issues with the V3s on this platform.

IF you're a set it and forget it type of person why not just get a nice spring/shock combo?

 

[Erick_V]

IF you're a set it and forget it type of person why not just get a nice spring/shock combo?

+1 to this. If my car gets turned into a mostly track car I'll be replacing my BC Coils (maybe trying stiffer Swift springs first) with Fortune Auto's. I'm not opposed to fiddling, my car is corner balanced and I'm excited to maybe try the RT-660's and play with tire pressures and damping some more. However, I understand why some people don't care to do that.

 

[Dpro]

I think I am switching to Meister R’s here. I will admit I thought about the Fortunes as well.

 

[ronmcdon]

I have a set of Meister Gt1's on order w/ request for linear swift 6k front/4k rear springs (stock rates 5k/3k linear springs iirc). Was looking to get minimal drop and linear springs. looking for a fun street car as a priority and very occasional non competitive hdpe. The FA500's would have been my second choice.

I'm also tempted to get wider 17x9 +30 wheels where I can throw on dunlop z3's 245/40s or 235/40s, have my fingers crossed it won't rub with flares and mild -2.0ish camber front and rear.

 

[Dpro]

I have a set of Meister Gt1's on order w/ request for linear swift 6k front/4k rear springs (stock rates 5k/3k linear springs iirc). Was looking to get minimal drop and linear springs. looking for a fun street car as a priority and very occasional non competitive hdpe. The FA500's would have been my second choice.

I'm also tempted to get wider 17x9 +30 wheels where I can throw on dunlop z3's 245/40s or 235/40s, have my fingers crossed it won't rub with flares and mild -2.0ish camber front and rear.

17x9‘s will probably work with flares you will need to cut sheet metal. There are guys with flares running 9‘s.. You see more about those kinda of setups on the facebook groups than here. Fists of Fury , Socal STRS etc,... they are not quite as bad as ST Nation which tends to be a total shit show.
A number of people here are on them.

 

[Jabbit]

What would be the ideal spring/shock combo if I go that way? I had Mountune springs on my other ST and like them

 

[kevinatfms]

I run a spring/shock combo of the Swift / Bilstein B8's and love them. I havent exceeded the cars ability yet so i find no need to upgrade. I need more camber(currently stuck at -1.5 or so) so i bought the DNA camber plates to throw on it for -2.0 to -2.5 up front. The spring rate is great for a street/occasional track car and the dampers, even though only twin tube, are matched quite well to the increased spring rate and slight drop.

I measure around 1" lower that stock front/rear. Tie rods are near level, travel isnt compromised and the car will rotate with just a pressure change. I removed the big rear sway bar due to the snap oversteer i was having in colder temps. I went back with a torsion brace to stiffen the rear beam up slightly(which adds spring rate).

And i run 16x8 Dekagrams with 215/45R16 Azenis 615k's. My new setup(when it arrives) will be 15x8 Dekagrams with 225/45R15's in some sort of 200tw stickies. The more tire the better with this car.

 

[ronmcdon]

17x9‘s will probably work with flares you will need to cut sheet metal. There are guys with flares running 9‘s.. You see more about those kinda of setups on the facebook groups than here. Fists of Fury , Socal STRS etc,... they are not quite as bad as ST Nation which tends to be a total shit show.
A number of people here are on them.

yes defintely counting on cutting sheetmetal. hoping it'll give the car a bit more traction and grip.

however won't lie and confess I like the way wider rubber looks. the 16x8 and 205 tires I have isn't bad but not used to that look with so skinny tires. even my beater has 225 tires.

 

[Dpro]

yes defintely counting on cutting sheetmetal. hoping it'll give the car a bit more traction and grip.

however won't lie and confess I like the way wider rubber looks. the 16x8 and 205 tires I have isn't bad but not used to that look with so skinny tires. even my beater has 225 tires.

Oh ya I get it I would have put 9’s on with 225’s as well. I was just not into cutting sheetmetal on my brand new car. . Thats why I won’t go any less than 8 inch on aftermarket wheels on the car and try to go for as wide a contact patch as I can get away with. One thing I also found in 16’s was severe size limiting factors as in a lot of manufacturers just are not making 215/45’s in that diameter.
I am now putting on a set of 17x8 Titans with 215/40’s . I thought about going 15 but I am just not into the small wheel look. Call it an esthetics thing. I also am concerned about losing turn in because regardless of what anyone says a 225/45 or 50 on a 15 will effect turn in. I love the turn in on these cars.

 

[ronmcdon]

would there be enough clearance to run 17/225's with fender rolling and pulling?

no im not a fan of 15s esp given the taller sidewalls. aesthetically that looks good on a miata or older civic or sentra.

Jabbit - I would say Swift and bilstein or koni yellow is the way to go if you prefer shock and spring combo. had that on my daily drivers and they work great. Also had this on past EF/EG civic and my old NA miata and loved it.

What I am not sure is, with the fiesta ST application if the drop of the swift R springs would creat create clearance issues if you do choose to run 245s at some point. Tbh i'm still learning but thats one of the things I was concerned with, would be the height clearance. im sure someone can elaborate more accurately on this.

 

[Dpro]

would there be enough clearance to run 17/225's with fender rolling and pulling?

no im not a fan of 15s esp given the taller sidewalls. aesthetically that looks good on a miata or older civic or sentra.

Jabbit - I would say Swift and bilstein or koni yellow is the way to go if you prefer shock and spring combo. had that on my daily drivers and they work great. Also had this on past EF/EG civic and my old NA miata and loved it.

What I am not sure is, with the fiesta ST application if the drop of the swift R springs would creat create clearance issues if you do choose to run 245s at some point. Tbh i'm still learning but thats one of the things I was concerned with, would be the height clearance. im sure someone can elaborate more accurately on this.

I think its a overall height issue. Truthfully the chassis was never designed for 17’s The stock Fiesta’s came 16’s and the car does look ok with 16’s . I just decided to jump back to 17’s because of wheel design. lol I do have a hub redrill jig to redrill my hubs to 4x100 opening the door too more wheels choices. Though like I earlier mentioned our tire choices in 16 are limited.

 

[M-Sport fan]

would there be enough clearance to run 17/225's with fender rolling and pulling?

IF someone made a NOT full race, NOT 00-40 tread wear slick (i.e; NOT A7s/R7s), in a 225/40-17, possibly. (They do NOT. )

I just cannot see how a 225/45-17 could not rub, despite so many on here claiming other wise, especially on anything lower than factory ride height.

 

[shouldbeasy]

MeisterR's have been nice for me - no complaints and the adjustable dampening is noticeable when I go from hard to soft for summer to winter.

If you want to add a 225 tire, add 1.8° of camber in the front and it will minimize your rubbing - I didn't initially and I ended up eating my fenders (had one grab the tire and fold inward almost parallel with the ground).

The Yellow Speed Racing option is on my radar for the future - depending on where I use the car most in the next year or two as my living situation changes.

 

[Jabbit]

Just an update - I took the plunge and picked up ISC N1 coilovers with street/sport valving and upgraded springs. I liked the fact that they are close to me and were quite helpful when I had questions. If/when I need a rebuild, they are close. A lot of the locals have great things to say so I figured I'd give them a shot. With my ultimate plan being to run wide tires, I liked the idea of adjustable height. I'll get to doing a full build thread at some point. Great conversation in here, let's keep it going!

 

[ronmcdon]

I think its a overall height issue. Truthfully the chassis was never designed for 17’s The stock Fiesta’s came 16’s and the car does look ok with 16’s . I just decided to jump back to 17’s because of wheel design. lol I do have a hub redrill jig to redrill my hubs to 4x100 opening the door too more wheels choices. Though like I earlier mentioned our tire choices in 16 are limited.

4x108 makes it tough to find a lot of wheel choices too wider than 17x8. wish I could run a set of te37's in 17x9 on the fist or similarly light wheel.