Turbo Technics S280

[Dpro]

It was Mobil 91 octane which here in Canada is an Esso product sold thru Super Store Gas Bars. I was running a 91 tune. I have to say I am concerned with the reliability of this engine because I wasn't running a radical tune by any means. Not sure if you read the other thread, but I did not burn a hole thru the piston like I originally thought. The piston failed at the wrist pin boss and took out the rings. I don't think any of the pieces went out the top. The broken rings were still in the ring lands and any piston pieces went down into the oil pan. I didn't find anything in the sump pick up screen, just in the oil when I drained it out.

There are a lot of FiST’s out there running fine with no piston failure. You openly admitted in your other thread that you bought the car used and that the clutch went at 17k no clutch should go at 17k treated right a clutch can last 100k or longer. Abused a clutch can last 50k . Someone beat the piss out of your car before you bought it , Possibly did not change the oil for too long. Myriad of other things that would abuse the engine. Fact is you told us your clutch was gone at 17k and thats a dead giveaway that you bought a messed up car.
Do not try to go blaming it on the reliability of these engines because there are tons running around with hybrids and upgraded turbo’s without problems as well as tons on tunes with stock turbo’s.
You bought someones elses trashed headache sorry if that comes off harsh but I am just tired of seeing your posts trying to blame gas , trying to blame the engine.
You made a bad purchase I am sorry for you for that but just suck it up man and stop trying to look for something else to blame,

 

[ywgbandit]

There are a lot of FiST’s out there running fine with no piston failure. You openly admitted in your other thread that you bought the car used and that the clutch went at 17k no clutch should go at 17k treated right a clutch can last 100k or longer. Abused a clutch can last 50k . Someone beat the piss out of your car before you bought it , Possibly did not change the oil for too long. Myriad of other things that would abuse the engine. Fact is you told us your clutch was gone at 17k and thats a dead giveaway that you bought a messed up car.
Do not try to go blaming it on the reliability of these engines because there are tons running around with hybrids and upgraded turbo’s without problems as well as tons on tunes with stock turbo’s.
You bought someones elses trashed headache sorry if that comes off harsh but I am just tired of seeing your posts trying to blame gas , trying to blame the engine.
You made a bad purchase I am sorry for you for that but just suck it up man and stop trying to look for something else to blame,

I did make a bad purchase, but I'm not "trying to look for something else to blame" I'm looking for a cause. If you don't find the cause, then you are destined to repeat the failure. I have been reading the "Blown Engine Resource Thread" and there is one guy that popped two engines in a row. I do not want to follow in his footsteps! Seems a lot of the failed engines were do to #4 cylinder piston failure. Seems to me that might indicate cooling issues. If I had it to do all over again my first mod would be an aftermarket radiator like the Mountune. If my posts bother you that much...don't read them.

 

[Dpro]

I did make a bad purchase, but I'm not "trying to look for something else to blame" I'm looking for a cause. If you don't find the cause, then you are destined to repeat the failure. I have been reading the "Blown Engine Resource Thread" and there is one guy that popped two engines in a row. I do not want to follow in his footsteps! Seems a lot of the failed engines were do to #4 cylinder piston failure. Seems to me that might indicate cooling issues. If I had it to do all over again my first mod would be an aftermarket radiator like the Mountune. If my posts bother you that much...don't read them.

Well you come into the S280 thread posting your supposedly cautionary tale like its some kinda of truth about the car and its just not. I am not bothered by it but ya you are spreading disinformation. You do not know what caused the problem.

I just think you are failing at seeing the possible reasons or dismissing them, Its true if you bought a 2014-2015 there could be the cooling issue. Though that usually shows with a blown headgasket and failed head not a failed piston. Also there could have been a problem with the Tune. You cannot just dismiss that. I know Dizzy has a decent rep. Yet at the same time your not the only the only with a upgraded turbo that blew his engine on a dizzy tune.

I think getting the aftermarket radiator is good preventive practice. It was one of the earlier things I got for my car. Coming in I read and saw and went aha good preventive maintenance upgrade.


Though I do think you do not have the knowledge to do the diagnosis and now are throwing darts to pinpoint the reason.

 

[ywgbandit]

My car is an early model 2015 but has not leaked or used coolant since I bought the car. I would agree the previous owner thrashed the car, but i did not know that until I saw the clutch. My objective is not to shit all over the car, I'm sharing information and looking for feedback from other members so that I might prevent this from happening again. I love driving this little rocket and it is by far the most fun vehicle since I sold my motorcycle, plus it has heat and A/C!!!

 

[EnthusiaST]

Sorry to hear about your motor man! It’s a good thing they can be had for less than the cost of an s280. I’m still waiting for the day I get the tracking info for mine. I’m hoping it comes before it’s too cold here to hook in 3rd gear for data logging.


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[Se7eN]

Quick note of things I've come across when installing these things. Up to my 4th install so far:

- The turbo fits perfect with out having to remove the cross-member or anything. That's probably the main thing.

- Make sure the brass seals on the turbo oil inlet are seated well and maybe re-tighten after having it warm up.

- The grinding is not 100% necessary but it's good to give the clearance.

- Get longer vacuum lines if you can for the Boost Solenoid.

- Get some hose clamps for the OE coolant lines that connect to the adapters provided. Kit comes with 4 such clamps you need at least 5, the other side stock clamp is big enough, the passenger side not so much.

- I've done 3 of these on jack stands and 1 on a lift. It was faster on jack stands as I didn't have to keep lowering an raising the car to do stuff.

- Use the provided Studs, they fit better on the DP side and it's always good to use new hardware.

- The 14-15PSI WG is a PAIN to get stretched out to the little pin once you've done the proper preload. (Have a strong friend handy) Also trim or remove the heatshield from the stock WG as it hits the hose clamp on the turbo.

 

[EnthusiaST]

Does anyone know the correct mm preload for the tune + actuator?


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[Se7eN]

Does anyone know the correct mm preload for the tune + actuator?
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Rule of Thumb is let it go to where it goes over the pin easilly and back it out until it's about half way on the hole. Usually about 3 to 4 full turns to get there.

Every time I've done it that way and has come out in the 14-15psi range.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Rule of Thumb is let it go to where it goes over the pin easilly and back it out until it's about half way on the hole. Usually about 3 to 4 full turns to get there.

Every time I've done it that way and has come out in the 14-15psi range.

I think its 3mm of preload and it equals 3 full turns of the Eyelet on the shaft.

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[TyphoonFiST]

I just wish there was a good video to show members!

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[Se7eN]

I just wish there was a good video to show members!

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I don't think Adam ever showed the preload on his vids

 

[B18_Spoon]

I started with 3mm and Adam made me adjust it twice before he was happy. Finally with the 3rd adjustment we were able to hold a minimum boost level of
about 18lbs. It was basically completely unloaded and then I added like 1 or 2 turns to make sure it was completely shut unless the boost
controller wanted it to move. this was with Whooshes "All The Boost" 14psi Turbosmart actuator.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

I Think the Sellers of the Turbos should do the adjustment on all Actuators that they sell as an add on, on top of the Actuator the Turbos ship with* Thats just me though. I think it would be a great courtesy to the purchaser and less dicking around they have to do after install and during tuning!

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[Se7eN]

I Think the Sellers of the Turbos should do the adjustment on all Actuators that they sell as an add on, on top of the Actuator the Turbos ship with* Thats just me though. I think it would be a great courtesy to the purchaser and less dicking around they have to do after install and during tuning!

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the stock actuator comes marked and adjusted, but o fcourse this is an upgrade part

 

[flbchbm]

Yeah. My idle is set to 2750. Lol


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Idle? What's that?

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[Jason@dizzytuning]

I just wish there was a good video to show members!

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This is a video I did on a stock frame turbo. The s280 will be very similar.

View: https://youtu.be/ATi_9TZ6b9Q

 

[PhoenixM3]

Idle? What's that?

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Idle is the anti-redline.

 

[Se7eN]

This is a video I did on a stock frame turbo. The s280 will be very similar.

View: https://youtu.be/ATi_9TZ6b9Q

very nice

 

[ron@whoosh]

I Think the Sellers of the Turbos should do the adjustment on all Actuators that they sell as an add on, on top of the Actuator the Turbos ship with* Thats just me though. I think it would be a great courtesy to the purchaser and less dicking around they have to do after install and during tuning!

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the stock actuator comes marked and adjusted, but o fcourse this is an upgrade part

correct - adding the uprated WGA is a modification to the kit as supplied by TT
Also, if the installer can't pre-load a WGA they certainly should not be installing a turbo kit

 

[MagnetiseST]

Seems a lot of the failed engines were do to #4 cylinder piston failure. Seems to me that might indicate cooling issues. If I had it to do all over again my first mod would be an aftermarket radiator like the Mountune.

This really isn't the thread for this, but: #4 tends to fail because it runs the leanest, #1 & #4 are typically the problem cylinders. Mine was #3, but from an unrelated issue. Also better cooling will not fix a lean running cylinder and therefore will not prevent damage.

I really hope you get your car back soon (if you havent already), and I hope that is the end of your engine problems. I just feel like posts like this are what causes the rapid spread of misinformation on the internet.