Turbo Technics S280

[MagnetiseST]

If I blew a motor I'd rather get another used fist (if at all) than try to rebuild. I got burned bad when I dropped $8k to rebuild my MS3.

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I already did this route, I still wasn't totally happy with the chassis

 

[EnthusiaST]

If I blew a motor I'd rather get another used fist (if at all) than try to rebuild. I got burned bad when I dropped $8k to rebuild my MS3.

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IMO If my motor ever blows I’ll be dropping a stocker in. If I ever get to the point where I feel the need to build a motor I’ll probably move onto another platform.


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[wetwea33]

If I blew a motor I'd rather get another used fist (if at all) than try to rebuild. I got burned bad when I dropped $8k to rebuild my MS3.

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That absurd and makes no sense. I know a friend who built a ms3 motor after he spun a bearing for not even half that. A used low milage fist motor goes for less then 1k. You could get a built sleeved motor depending on components used for 3.5-6k. Ideally I would love a fist as a cheap track car that I would build a sleeved motor for and gut down the line.

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[gtx3076]

That absurd and makes no sense. I know a friend who built a ms3 motor after he spun a bearing for not even half that. A used low milage fist motor goes for less then 1k. You could get a built sleeved motor depending on components used for 3.5-6k. Ideally I would love a fist as a cheap track car that I would build a sleeved motor for and gut down the line.

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It was $8k out with upgraded clutch several slave cylinders, catch can upgrade, and refurbished turbo. The builder ruined the first built motor, then the bearing spun on me on my first log after a 1k mile break in on the 2nd, then he built one more and the bearings spun in the middle of a MAF cal around 5k in 2nd gear.

When it was all said and done I was out about $8k. But the motor built and installed was around $5-6k. I sold it for $2k as is to wash my hands of it.

He actually took another customers donor motor for the 2nd build. We both were looking to sue him, and he closed shop soon after.

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[Se7eN]

It's sad to see people parting out so soon after installing new turbos and such. But I get it, on to new things and such. I personally plan on keeping my fiesta as it's soon to be paid off and maybe get something else to mod later on.

 

[Dpro]

It's sad to see people parting out so soon after installing new turbos and such. But I get it, on to new things and such. I personally plan on keeping my fiesta as it's soon to be paid off and maybe get something else to mod later on.

Ya my plan is to go bigger Turbo and run it. Then I am also planning on getting another RWD sports car. Possibly a new Z as Nissan just announced it and the official reveal is tomorrow.

 

[Se7eN]

Ya my plan is to go bigger Turbo and run it. Then I am also planning on getting another RWD sports car. Possibly a new Z as Nissan just announced it and the official reveal is tomorrow.

I already have the RWD car, would actually like an AWD as I've never had one. Keep the Fiesta for track days and such

 

[Dpro]

I already have the RWD car, would actually like an AWD as I've never had one. Keep the Fiesta for track days and such

Ya I do too except I am over it. lol Plus its too rare too drive. Still kinda regret getting rid of the old track beater one as you could drive it like you stole it. Between having excessively high mileage and a salvage title. lol But it was pretty dope,. I do not think I will buy another BMW though.

 

[EnthusiaST]

I sold my ND a few weeks ago due to the move. I’m itching for another red car to enjoy. I have my eyes on a 987.2 Boxster/Cayman once I have garage space again.


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[Dpro]

I sold my ND a few weeks ago due to the move. I’m itching for another red car to enjoy. I have my eyes on a 987.2 Boxster/Cayman once I have garage space again.


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I have honestly been ogling the 718 Though ya I will jump on a new Z if Nissan does it right. I was a Nissan guy for a long time. Its rumored to be the 3 liter twin turbo V6 out of the Infiniti Q60 which would be a 400hp engine. That is like perffect

 

[ywgbandit]

FYI to anyone with an S280....I just blew the piston in number 4 cyl and wanted to get the S280 turbo checked out. According to Turbo Technics there is no one other than them that can service the S280 turbo. They do not sell any parts to this bespoke turbo. If you want your S280 serviced, it needs to be shipped back to England. I wish I knew this before I purchased this turbo.

 

[Se7eN]

that's a bit of a downside, but I guess it goes with all the pumaspeed turbos as well

 

[SwissLime]

Could a turbo swap make you fail an emissions test? Google searches aren't very clear, seems like people fail the visual check in California and other places that are real strict, I think PA is just a readiness check so I'd be fine right?

 

[Fordman]

I pulled my 280 out of the box and checked it (waiting on exhaust manifold, due today). The entire trailing edge of the turbine wheel is visible. Do you see any indications of DOD - Domestic Object Damage - dings, missing chunks, etc.? If not, most likely your blades have not been compromised. You could get a cheap borescope with a small radius snake and check the entire turbine wheel. If there aren't any significant dings on the leading edges, or any missing pieces on any of the blades, you're good. If you find damage that would lead to an imbalance, you'd need to address. If nothing is missing, but you see indications, depending on extent, it may affect turbine performance. You can also check the scroll, but if the blades are good, your scroll will be fine. You shouldn't have and FOD on the compressor side (Foreign Object Damage), and if the turbine wheel looks good with your eyes, you are likely ok. Just for reference, I'm at 35 years and counting in Gas Turbine / Jet Engine business. Borescoping compressors and turbines is routine to assess FOD or DOD - we don't take apart a jet engine to check it's too expensive, and in the power industry, it can cost millions to take an outage to take apart a gas turbine to inspect it. If it was me and the turbine wheel checks good, I'd pump a bunch of low viscosity oil through it just to be safe, and be and at least feel good about the turbo.

 

[Fordman]

FYI to anyone with an S280....I just blew the piston in number 4 cyl and wanted to get the S280 turbo checked out. According to Turbo Technics there is no one other than them that can service the S280 turbo. They do not sell any parts to this bespoke turbo. If you want your S280 serviced, it needs to be shipped back to England. I wish I knew this before I purchased this turbo.

See above, forgot to click reply...

 

[DAW]

I pulled my 280 out of the box and checked it (waiting on exhaust manifold, due today). The entire trailing edge of the turbine wheel is visible. Do you see any indications of DOD - Domestic Object Damage - dings, missing chunks, etc.? If not, most likely your blades have not been compromised. You could get a cheap borescope with a small radius snake and check the entire turbine wheel. If there aren't any significant dings on the leading edges, or any missing pieces on any of the blades, you're good. If you find damage that would lead to an imbalance, you'd need to address. If nothing is missing, but you see indications, depending on extent, it may affect turbine performance. You can also check the scroll, but if the blades are good, your scroll will be fine. You shouldn't have and FOD on the compressor side (Foreign Object Damage), and if the turbine wheel looks good with your eyes, you are likely ok. Just for reference, I'm at 35 years and counting in Gas Turbine / Jet Engine business. Borescoping compressors and turbines is routine to assess FOD or DOD - we don't take apart a jet engine to check it's too expensive, and in the power industry, it can cost millions to take an outage to take apart a gas turbine to inspect it. If it was me and the turbine wheel checks good, I'd pump a bunch of low viscosity oil through it just to be safe, and be and at least feel good about the turbo.

That’s exactly why on the f-35 you take the different modules off, ship them out, and you get a whole new one to replace. No more wasted man hours or money tearing apart the engine for anything.

 

[DAW]

That’s exactly why on the f-35 you take the different modules off, ship them out, and you get a while new one to replace. No more wasted man hours or money tearing apart the engine for anything, and it’s all QDs.

 

[ywgbandit]

I pulled my 280 out of the box and checked it (waiting on exhaust manifold, due today). The entire trailing edge of the turbine wheel is visible. Do you see any indications of DOD - Domestic Object Damage - dings, missing chunks, etc.? If not, most likely your blades have not been compromised. You could get a cheap borescope with a small radius snake and check the entire turbine wheel. If there aren't any significant dings on the leading edges, or any missing pieces on any of the blades, you're good. If you find damage that would lead to an imbalance, you'd need to address. If nothing is missing, but you see indications, depending on extent, it may affect turbine performance. You can also check the scroll, but if the blades are good, your scroll will be fine. You shouldn't have and FOD on the compressor side (Foreign Object Damage), and if the turbine wheel looks good with your eyes, you are likely ok. Just for reference, I'm at 35 years and counting in Gas Turbine / Jet Engine business. Borescoping compressors and turbines is routine to assess FOD or DOD - we don't take apart a jet engine to check it's too expensive, and in the power industry, it can cost millions to take an outage to take apart a gas turbine to inspect it. If it was me and the turbine wheel checks good, I'd pump a bunch of low viscosity oil through it just to be safe, and be and at least feel good about the turbo.

I have no visible damage on either the compressor or turbine wheel. I flushed oil thru the oil inlet and outlet and spun the shaft by blowing 120 psi air from my compressor thru the blades and it spools up without any rubbing or noise, so I guess I'm OK. No longitudinal play on the shaft and a less that 1mm lateral play at the compressor and and nothing measurable at the turbine end.

 

[Fordman]

I have no visible damage on either the compressor or turbine wheel. I flushed oil thru the oil inlet and outlet and spun the shaft by blowing 120 psi air from my compressor thru the blades and it spools up without any rubbing or noise, so I guess I'm OK. No longitudinal play on the shaft and a less that 1mm lateral play at the compressor and nothing measurable at the turbine end.

That sounds very promising. It would be a slam dunk if you could look at the leading edges of the turbine wheel and confirm no indications there. I'm not sure what I'd do if I were where you are at this point, as far as considering borescoping. The most likely place FOD or DOD usually shows is LE, but there's usually other areas downstream including TE. Most likely you are good based on the amount of the turbine wheel you can see, considering no visible indications. Still a bummer, but not an avalanche. Did you ever figure out what fuel you were running at the time of the event? Sorry if you already posted the info.

 

[ywgbandit]

It was Mobil 91 octane which here in Canada is an Esso product sold thru Super Store Gas Bars. I was running a 91 tune. I have to say I am concerned with the reliability of this engine because I wasn't running a radical tune by any means. Not sure if you read the other thread, but I did not burn a hole thru the piston like I originally thought. The piston failed at the wrist pin boss and took out the rings. I don't think any of the pieces went out the top. The broken rings were still in the ring lands and any piston pieces went down into the oil pan. I didn't find anything in the sump pick up screen, just in the oil when I drained it out.