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How to extract the LCA from the knuckle

Messages
13
Likes
15
Location
Twin Cities, MN
#1
I'm in the process of doing a diff swap, but at the moment I'm stuck because I can't separate the LCA/ball joint from the steering knuckle.
I've driven a chisel into the pinch socket, and liberal amounts of PBBlaster, but no amount of prying on the LCA has budged the ball joint.

I'm considering taking the brakes apart in hopes that I could then reach the very end of the control arm to beat on.

Any other recommendations?
 


Messages
190
Likes
134
Location
Michigan
#2
It's for sure a stubborn part but you have the right idea, definitely take the rotors and calipers off. If you have a piece of wood or something to hammer on you can place it on the lca and smack away until it is loose. Also if you have some kind of tool or piece of metal that fits behind the knuckle, hitting the post of the ball joint itself might be effective too but that one is a bit riskier and you could end up damaging the joint.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 


PunkST

2000 Post Club
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Menasha
#3
Take the rotors off and use the correct tool. You may also have to take the pressure of the spring out of the equation by jacking up on the edge of the hub.
 


OP
A
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Location
Twin Cities, MN
Thread Starter #4
I ended up disassembling the brakes. The driver's side ended up coming apart with a few whacks on the very nose of the LCA. Unfortunately, on the passenger side, the drift slipped at some point and when the ball joint finally came out of the knuckle, I saw that I'd put a small hole in the ball joint boot. The cheapest solution turned out to be to just replace the whole control arm.
 


maestromaestro

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Houston
#5
I ended up disassembling the brakes. The driver's side ended up coming apart with a few whacks on the very nose of the LCA. Unfortunately, on the passenger side, the drift slipped at some point and when the ball joint finally came out of the knuckle, I saw that I'd put a small hole in the ball joint boot. The cheapest solution turned out to be to just replace the whole control arm.
That won’t resolve the tear in the boot though. It is, however, less aggravating to replace the whole half-shaft than just to futz with the boot. I know from the bitter experience. Not much more money, but a much easier job.
 


Messages
119
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121
Location
West Chester, PA, USA
#6
That won’t resolve the tear in the boot though. It is, however, less aggravating to replace the whole half-shaft than just to futz with the boot. I know from the bitter experience. Not much more money, but a much easier job.
I think he meant the ball joint boot, not the half shaft CV boot- I'd guess the new control arm came with a new ball joint.
 


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