shouldbeasy's 'not a build' build.

[shouldbeasy]

I took a few inches off the threaded rod once it was on the ground - skid plate will go on sometime in the future and allow for the final cut.

Rear bumper clean up - I kinda dig the no bumper skin look!

 

[shouldbeasy]

Install recap:
- Quaife LSD
- Mountune radiator
- Motorcraft 180°F Thermostat
- Whoosh Aux Fuel
- Front Crash Bar
- OMP Tow Rings - Front and Rear
- CMComposites WRC Hood Vents
- DEI Turbo Blanket (warranty replacement)
- Powerflex Motor Mount Inserts - Race
- Bridgestone RE71R Tires - 225/45R17

Rust protection - POR-15
- Lower control arms
- Rear subframe brace
- Front crash bar
- Rear crash bar

Fluid Film'd front unibody 'frame' ends - next move is the rear frame ends after touching it up with POR-15.

 

[Woods247]

Love the 240 Blitz. I have a set of those as well on my old Scrambler. They look like giant double Ds on the front of that thing lol. Your car is bad ass.

 

[4DGC]

I just caught up on this thread and had one question. Is it possible the turbo blanket keeps too much heat in the turbo which then caused the failure? When reading the thread it goes from turbo blanket install to turbo failure in a few posts. Just a thought.

In other news, thanks for sharing your build. This is awesome. I really like the lights behind the grill and I think I'll steal that idea someday when I get around to it.

 

[shouldbeasy]

I just caught up on this thread and had one question. Is it possible the turbo blanket keeps too much heat in the turbo which then caused the failure? When reading the thread it goes from turbo blanket install to turbo failure in a few posts. Just a thought.

In other news, thanks for sharing your build. This is awesome. I really like the lights behind the grill and I think I'll steal that idea someday when I get around to it.

I don't think that the turbo blanket has anything but a positive affect - none of my research leads me to believe the capture of the heat in the turbo would result in the shaft failure.

The tuner at the time was Stratified - I have no doubt that Alex didn't give two craps about my tune and probably didn't care enough to actually fine tune the areas where I had boost surging. Oddly enough, the same issues were evident with the X-47R but it has been rectified by Tune+ (repeatedly - I drive this car year round so the air density changes and thus map slots change while operating).

Break in oil being changed out today! Gotta keep the dog at home and hit some on-ramps!

 

[shouldbeasy]

Well, yesterday was fun!

Took the car in to the stealership for an alignment and, after finding a loose lower control arm bolt, it also became obvious there was an EXTREME fuel leak from the 5th injector LPFL T connector! This scared the shit outta me - I was just driving to town (20 mins) and didn't have my extinguisher with me as I was cleaning the interior. Thankfully disaster was avoided but I was very alarmed to discover the plug from the AeroMotive hose was the culprit.

Being new to push connectors I figured one of them would be an issue - very concerned to see fuel leaking profusely (we're talking almost a stream) out of the brass plug in the pre-packaged T. This was VERY close to the downpipe and would have been the end of the car if it happened to catch fire. I had done a hundred KM or so on the car as break in procedure for the LSD - not aggressively accelerating or pushing the car. My only thought is that when I came out on the pavement before going to the dealership, I did put my foot down for a quick second, had felt the car hesitate and lifted - I was thinking perhaps it was a tune abnormality (I've had boost surge before). NOW, I think that's when the fuel pump supplied maximum pressure and blew past the sealant and started leaking.

I spoke to Ron @ Whoosh and it seems to be a one off - he doesn't package this item but takes the hose from AeroMotive and combines it with the SplitSecond controller for his package. In any case, I think Ron will be removing the plugs from the kits he sells and allowing the end user to install them. This would be avoided if that were the case - the main issue is that the plug HAD sealant on it. I didn't even think to tighten it due to this.

Just to be clear, I'm not voicing my frustration at Ron, but AeroMotive. Ron seemed to be receptive to my issue and understood the ramifications of this happening without the car sitting at the dealership when discovered.

So.... fun stuff number 2!
On the alignment machine the car was having issues - the rear end is apparently tweaked so that the passenger rear is toed in 0.7° which is non-adjustable and out of spec. So... Ford tech tells me it's the rear end that's bent - the spindle on the outside by the hub is knackered and there really isn't a fix for it. Fuck sake....

THIS is the reason I bought a Fiesta ST and not a German competitor - complete rear axle is $504. So... that's now my strategy. Take the new axle, clean it, POR-15 it and then get it re-aligned and confirmed to be in spec.

Can project cars NOT be such big projects some time???

 

[kivnul]

...
On the alignment machine the car was having issues - the rear end is apparently tweaked so that the passenger rear is toed in 0.7° which is non-adjustable and out of spec. So... Ford tech tells me it's the rear end that's bent - the spindle on the outside by the hub is knackered and there really isn't a fix for it. Fuck sake....

THIS is the reason I bought a Fiesta ST and not a German competitor - complete rear axle is $504. So... that's now my strategy. Take the new axle, clean it, POR-15 it and then get it re-aligned and confirmed to be in spec.

I saw somewhere here recently: A person was able to get the shop to loosen up the rear axle mounts and twist it a bit, evening out the toe between left and right sides. This would allow you to at least have a 0 thrust angle.

 

[shouldbeasy]

Anyone running a few degrees of camber in the front and not too happy with how it tramlines? I'm wondering if I should dial it back to 1.6-1.8° as opposed to 2.0-2.2 as it's set now.

Also, after the stock battery decided to start acting up, a replacement was in order - thankfully Odyssey has a replacement size available now and I've added a 96R-600 to the car. Always been happy with my Odyssey in the 4Runner, didn't save any weight but that's not my main concern - I just want reliable and a battery which doesn't leak!

 

[M-Sport fan]

With you 1000% on the battery! (I think I had one of the very first 96R-600s available.)

Even though I will eventually be on tires which actually demand big negative camber (like 2.5* and UP) in order to 'function' to their full capabilities (Yoko A052s), I will not go beyond 1.8 negative in the front, since it is a street car first and foremost.

 

[shouldbeasy]

285 hp and 290 ft*lbs - tuning the single port aux fuel (not really for gains, just for intake valve cleaning for now)

 

[shouldbeasy]

My RokBlok mud flaps are curling back and look kinda weird now (too much speed!!) and so I'm going to the Rally Armor option that are flimsy and just flap in the wind and won't permanently deform.

In addition to that, I've also put down a deposit for some SS Tuning flares as I can't stand looking at my mangled fenders (also had some rust show up from cracked paint) and so I really need to just trim the clearance and install flares.

Probably going with some spacers first, then I'll shop for some proper spec'd wheels to make sure that the wheels aren't tucked with the flare kit.

 

[Woods247]

My RokBlok mud flaps are curling back and look kinda weird now (too much speed!!) and so I'm going to the Rally Armor option that are flimsy and just flap in the wind and won't permanently deform.

In addition to that, I've also put down a deposit for some SS Tuning flares as I can't stand looking at my mangled fenders (also had some rust show up from cracked paint) and so I really need to just trim the clearance and install flares.

Probably going with some spacers first, then I'll shop for some proper spec'd wheels to make sure that the wheels aren't tucked with the flare kit.

I love those flares. How long does it take to get them?

 

[shouldbeasy]

I love those flares. How long does it take to get them?

Guessing close to a couple months - they say 5 weeks plus covid plus shipping.

They're a solid consolation prize as the Whoosh couldn't come through on the M2 Motoring flares.

 

[M-Sport fan]

My RokBlok mud flaps are curling back and look kinda weird now (too much speed!!) and so I'm going to the Rally Armor option that are flimsy and just flap in the wind and won't permanently deform.

Rally Armor also offers those 'Motorsport' level flaps, which are more stout (and larger) than anything out there, save for the SMS ones I have on the car (but they are 'universal fit' so you have to find a way to mount them without the fitting brackets/mounts supplied with Rally Armor's model bespoke kits).

 

[xxiaze]

Guessing close to a couple months - they say 5 weeks plus covid plus shipping.

They're a solid consolation prize as the Whoosh couldn't come through on the M2 Motoring flares.

Hold on tight! Lol. Definitely plan a few vacations before arrival. Those are sweet though! I’ve never seen those.

 

[shouldbeasy]

Tossed the winters on today... New set of Nokian Nordman 7's in 205/50R17 - studded this round. I've marked the tires with chalk to get the tire pressures dialed in - after changing the size off of stock I want to make sure that they're running as true as possible as I wore out the center section of the last set of winter tires by over inflating them (and running them too high of speeds...).

 

[M-Sport fan]

Are you even going to be able to get enough grip on dry tarmac to check their 'rollover' with the chalk, given the metal in the tread?

(Or are you putting the chalk marks on the outside edges/blocks of the contact patch itself??)

 

[shouldbeasy]

Are you even going to be able to get enough grip on dry tarmac to check their 'rollover' with the chalk, given the metal in the tread?

(Or are you putting the chalk marks on the outside edges/blocks of the contact patch itself??)

Chalked a 6" wide patch across the tire - edge to edge - it's not so much the rollover that I'm worried about, just how badly they deform while being under or over inflated. 39 PSI is WAY too much for winters and it ran the center section out of my Yokohama winter tires (they were cupped sooooo badly).

So, I'm just looking to check whether or not 32 and 30 psi (front and rear respectively) work to properly control tire wear.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

You running stock Suspension or Coil overs? An issues with rubbing using the 50 vs stock 40 size aspect ratio?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

 

[M-Sport fan]

Chalked a 6" wide patch across the tire - edge to edge - it's not so much the rollover that I'm worried about, just how badly they deform while being under or over inflated. 39 PSI is WAY too much for winters and it ran the center section out of my Yokohama winter tires (they were cupped sooooo badly).

So, I'm just looking to check whether or not 32 and 30 psi (front and rear respectively) work to properly control tire wear.

I ran my 195/60-15 Arctic 12s (on 15x7 methods) @ almost 45 PSI on dry summer roads traveling to rallies, and out to the stages, (as well as on rough forestry stage roads working those rallies) and they did not wear unusually at all.

But then I do not put anywhere near as many miles on them overall, or in total, as you probably put on your low profile, 17" setup.
(I'm guessing that something 100+ miles away is considered 'around the corner' out there in Ian Tyson country. LOL)