Stock radiator is just awful.

[Business6]

Those seem like not terrible numbers given ambient conditions. Might even venture to say those look pretty good.


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Could have been worse, I agree, especially considering I didn't get above 50mph. But for about a 40 minute drive where I'm basically a Fiesta SE because I'm staying out of boost as much as possible it's on the upper limit of my comfort level.

I still have to baby it even into late night because charge temps will be at/near 100° without any provocation because it's still that damn hot outside

 

[Fiestig]

Those seem like not terrible numbers given ambient conditions. Might even venture to say those look pretty good.

I would have to agree. I am not sure how many people realize or are aware that standard normal operating temps are between 195-220. In other words 220 is not considered hot in the realm of coolant temps. It is still a normal operating temp.

 

[Business6]

Point being I wasn't driving normally in the slightest. That was about as gentle as I've ever driven the car.

 

[Fiestig]

But would it have changed drastically if not driving gentle is what makes me wonder? The cooling system is supposed to be designed to adapt to the best of its ability regardless of how poor that may or may not be.

I am taking the 2014 through the desert this week and I think I am going to do my own little test of half driving gentle and half driving it hard to see what I can get for temps with the stock system. Last time I went through at 104 I was boosting it pretty hard and never got out of normal operating temp even at stop/go. I will just have to push it harder and see what happens.

 

[Business6]

But would it have changed drastically if not driving gentle is what makes me wonder? The cooling system is supposed to be designed to adapt to the best of its ability regardless of how poor that may or may not be.

I don't get what your point is with that last line. Yes, of course it would change if I wasn't being gentle. It's impossible to generate a shit ton more heat and not have consequences on an already-taxed cooling system

Whether or not it's designed to adapt is moot when the system itself, intercooler and friends included, is inadequate for normal driving which also means getting into boost. Yes, normal operating temps go up to 240° but you can't seriously be suggesting that I should be comfortable with granny driving resulting in temps over 220 even after the thermostat is fully opened.

 

[Fiestig]

Anything 230+ would be cause for concern and it should not be pushed. I will drive a car at 215-220 all day without a care in the world. Its when you get past there (Not normal operating temp) when its considered hot and its time to pay attention. When you get upwards of 230 you should have already been finding a place to pull over. 240+, It should make you pull over all on it's own...lol.

 

[WutApex]

So I decided against the Evans coolant and waffled going Motorcraft Yellow ($14.45/gal at RockAuto) vs. the standard Motorcraft Orange. Went with the Orange despite the higher cost ($21.34/gal at Amazon). Sticking with a 50/50 mix for right now.

Any negative effects of running Water Wetter with the Orange coolant? I've used it extensively with just distilled water (which was great for a track/race car), but never on a DD with regular coolant that will see some colder weather.

 

[Fiestig]

So I decided against the Evans coolant and waffled going Motorcraft Yellow ($14.45/gal at RockAuto) vs. the standard Motorcraft Orange. Went with the Orange despite the higher cost ($21.34/gal at Amazon). Sticking with a 50/50 mix for right now.

Any negative effects of running Water Wetter with the Orange coolant? I've used it extensively with just distilled water (which was great for a track/race car), but never on a DD with regular coolant that will see some colder weather.

I use to run water wetter years ago and changed to Royal Purple Purple Ice. Nothing wrong with running it in coolant as long as you use the proper ratios. However I would not run any cooling additives if the are will see cold weather. I believe both specify for warm climates.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Some of the f-body forum members were getting a sludge/gunk from using specifically the RED Water Wetter in their Dex Cool (which is supposedly the same exact chemistry as the Motorcraft orange?? ) mixes, but NOT with the diesel spec BLUE WW for some reason.
Others blamed air in the system reacting badly with the Dex Cool, and not the RED WW for this, so who knows?

I never had any problems with either the Z28's Dex Cool, or this car's Motorcraft orange, running the Lubegard Kool-It stuff, or the Purple Ice.

 

[WutApex]

Thanks. I think I'll just roll with the coolant and if I run into any problems during the summer or on track, I'll adjust the mix, followed by WW.

 

[jayrod1980]

I have water wetter in my Mountune radiator, but I’m running 30/70 Coolant to Water. Being Vegas, it’s still effective to freezing as far as I know, but does a much better job in high temps. Coolant is mostly important in cold climates.

 

[James1980]

Back in stock if anyone is looking for one

 

[DoomsdayMelody]

Took the car out in the canyons today before some errands. Stock radiator and IC, but ambient temps were between 99-104 Fahrenheit. Picked a fast road so I could be in 3rd to see full boost too. Honestly don’t see any issues, aside from heat soak.


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[jmrtsus]

Just returned from trip out West from E TN. Radiator has been perfect in the East but cruising up I 70W from Denver sent temps to "all bars". Was fine after a cool down eating supper. No fluid loss or any antics. Then again in N. Phoenix but full heater on dropped it to 2 bars in normal with a slowdown. Just ordered the Mountune, $455 shipped with a PayPal $20 new card discount and 6 months interest free. So $76 a month.

 

[DAW]

Don’t tell people you’re financial situations on the inter web. ^^

 

[Ford ST]

Don’t tell people you’re financial situations on the inter web. ^^

Why?

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[Dpro]

Why?

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I think he is extrapolating that out from the commonly held maxim that one should not talk about their wealth publicly. Which is somewhat true for the inter webs as well. Though talking about getting a credit card that gives you a discount on an item is far from disclosing ones financial position lol.

 

[Ford ST]

I think he is extrapolating that out from the commonly head belief that one should not talk about their wealth publicly. Which is somewhat true for the inter webs as well but talking getting a credit card that gives you a discount on an item is far from disclosing ones financial position lol.

I enjoy talking about money/discounts.
Everyone's got a opinion I guess.

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[jmrtsus]

Don’t tell people you’re financial situations on the inter web. ^^

LOL....

 

[vmaxbaby]

Well I just spent the last 45 minutes reading all these posts and now have questions. So I live in VA where it is in the 90's and I have a 2019. I don't have a AP yet so all I have to go off of is those squares in the center of the instrument cluster. It shows 3 squares and after a few minutes of driving it goes to 4 squares and just stays there. I have no idea if that is good or bad. My commute to work is open road for 20 minutes and then maybe 4 stop lights and I am at work so nothing like some of you guys are experiencing or have to deal with. So been waiting on the V3 IC from whoosh to get back in stock because I know our IC is crap but now wondering if I should get the RAD first and IC later down the road. My car has thermal exhaust, and crossover pipe with high flow filter and that is it. (did change my trans fluid to make sure I had 2L in it) but other then that stock. Plan to get a tune next year wanted to drive the car for 1 year (bought it new in Jan 2020) to make sure everything was good with the car before I walk away from the warranty. Getting a tune mean more power and more heat and don't want to screw the motor or head so before the stage 2 tune should the RAD be before the tune and before the intercooler?