-
Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features
Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!
New to the MOD game
- Thread starter Hitchcock&Scully
- Start date
You have a great start! As a lot have already mentioned, the rear motor mount and other mounts should be changed over. The whoosh street spec is the best rmm in my opinion. Also, I recommend not following the whole "stage" system for this car since it doesn't quite apply to the Fiesta as it does to other cars. For the intercooler is would go for the Whoosh V3, as I did. Didn't have any fitment issues at all and for the extra $100 it will support basically any power application you could ever want, and (probably) helps keep your air a little cooler if you need it (Florida heat sucks rn). Better to just buy once and not regret it if you think you might want to pursue more power. For a catback just pick whichever one sounds better. For induction if anything just get a better panel filter and not a CAI. I have the ST200 airbox from Mountune and it gives you whatever air you need. Other induction pieces will help, but the gains are very minimal and might not be worth your money. With all this you would basically max out the stock turbo on E30 with a stage 2 tune with a Cobb Accessport (I use and recommend Dizzy). After that is the world of aux fuel and bigger turbos. For the aesthetic mods just do whatever appeals to you, and everything else on your list looks great! 
Cobb AP + tune of your choice
An intercooler upgrade (really anything is better than the stock intercooler)
A rear motor mount (firmness of your own tolerance)
A radiator upgrade (optional in colder climates)
OP
Thread Starter
#27
Thread Starter
#27
Hey everyone I really appreciate the responses and input.
So I think I'm going to nix the intake and just grab a Ramair filter, induction and crossover hoses as well as the big mouth for the stock intake. Since I'm adding a few extras, instead of the full Boomba shift kit I'm going to go with the Mountune quick shift plate with the transmission cable bushings to save a few bucks. Same with the exhaust. I've heard good things about the Thermal R&D, its cheaper than the COBB and apparently doesn't have much drone, which is my main concern. The only reason I was going with COBB for a lot is they have a pretty decent military discount.
The Rallyarmors stay though, I do like the way they look and at the end of the day ill be the one driving it!
New wheels and rubber are definitely next on the list too. Any suggestions on that part?
So I think I'm going to nix the intake and just grab a Ramair filter, induction and crossover hoses as well as the big mouth for the stock intake. Since I'm adding a few extras, instead of the full Boomba shift kit I'm going to go with the Mountune quick shift plate with the transmission cable bushings to save a few bucks. Same with the exhaust. I've heard good things about the Thermal R&D, its cheaper than the COBB and apparently doesn't have much drone, which is my main concern. The only reason I was going with COBB for a lot is they have a pretty decent military discount.
The Rallyarmors stay though, I do like the way they look and at the end of the day ill be the one driving it!
New wheels and rubber are definitely next on the list too. Any suggestions on that part?
The Mountune quick shift plate is a pain to install, but WELL worth it, being the most throw reducing option on the market!
I was going to do the boomba interior shift lever as well, but decided against it with the installation hassles (everyone breaking the thin plastic clips/pieces during install), and the lack of need for the throw to be any shorter for me, as well as the fear (very 'unfounded', I am told![[dunno]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_dunno.gif "Dunno [dunno]")
) that there would be major cable bind with everything maxed out to the shortest throw possible.
I did do the under hood cable bracket bushings (also a pain, but also maybe 'worth it'), but did not do the interior, under the shifter bushings, since I did not want to mess with that if I was not already doing the lever itself.![[wink]](/images/smilies/wink.gif "Wink [wink]")
I was going to do the boomba interior shift lever as well, but decided against it with the installation hassles (everyone breaking the thin plastic clips/pieces during install), and the lack of need for the throw to be any shorter for me, as well as the fear (very 'unfounded', I am told
) that there would be major cable bind with everything maxed out to the shortest throw possible.I did do the under hood cable bracket bushings (also a pain, but also maybe 'worth it'), but did not do the interior, under the shifter bushings, since I did not want to mess with that if I was not already doing the lever itself.
OP
Thread Starter
#31
Thread Starter
#31
The Mountune quick shift plate is a pain to install, but WELL worth it, being the most throw reducing option on the market!
I was going to do the boomba interior shift lever as well, but decided against it with the installation hassles (everyone breaking the thin plastic clips/pieces during install), and the lack of need for the throw to be any shorter for me, as well as the fear (very 'unfounded', I am told) that there would be major cable bind with everything maxed out to the shortest throw possible.
I did do the under hood cable bracket bushings (also a pain, but also maybe 'worth it'), but did not do the interior, under the shifter bushings, since I did not want to mess with that if I was not already doing the lever itself.
I was going to do the boomba interior shift lever as well, but decided against it with the installation hassles (everyone breaking the thin plastic clips/pieces during install), and the lack of need for the throw to be any shorter for me, as well as the fear (very 'unfounded', I am told
) that there would be major cable bind with everything maxed out to the shortest throw possible.I did do the under hood cable bracket bushings (also a pain, but also maybe 'worth it'), but did not do the interior, under the shifter bushings, since I did not want to mess with that if I was not already doing the lever itself.
I've had both the Cobb CBE and the Thermal R&D CBE. Both are very good about not droning at highway speed, but they have some distinct differences.
Cobb's sound is very bass heavy, and very refined. No pops, burbles, or wastegate noises. It is a good sound, it just seems like Cobb wanted to go for a more OE type of sound. Volume is also fairly consistent in that it doesn't ever get all that loud.
The Thermal R&D is Jekyll and Hyde. It's quiet at idle and constant state cruising, but gets pretty rowdy with liberal applications of your right foot. It burbles, pops, and generally sounds a lot more raw. It's nothing like a straight pipe or a catless exhaust, but it's not the refined bass note of the Cobb.
Cobb's sound is very bass heavy, and very refined. No pops, burbles, or wastegate noises. It is a good sound, it just seems like Cobb wanted to go for a more OE type of sound. Volume is also fairly consistent in that it doesn't ever get all that loud.
The Thermal R&D is Jekyll and Hyde. It's quiet at idle and constant state cruising, but gets pretty rowdy with liberal applications of your right foot. It burbles, pops, and generally sounds a lot more raw. It's nothing like a straight pipe or a catless exhaust, but it's not the refined bass note of the Cobb.
Since you must get under the car anyway to drain it, I've found it much easier to just get one of those Sta-Lube, CRC, Amsoil, or Performance Tool hand pumps for the bottle, and do it all from under the car.
It takes me personally, A LOT less time than disconnecting/removing all of the air box tubes/sensor connections/clamps/etc. from the top, and then possibly forgetting to re-connect everything after.
It takes me personally, A LOT less time than disconnecting/removing all of the air box tubes/sensor connections/clamps/etc. from the top, and then possibly forgetting to re-connect everything after.
Since you must get under the car anyway to drain it, I've found it much easier to just get one of those Sta-Lube, CRC, or Performance Tool hand pumps for the bottle, and do it all from under the car.
It takes me personally, A LOT less time than disconnecting/removing all of the air box tubes/sensor connections/clamps/etc. from the top, and then possibly forgetting to re-connect everything after.
It takes me personally, A LOT less time than disconnecting/removing all of the air box tubes/sensor connections/clamps/etc. from the top, and then possibly forgetting to re-connect everything after.
But one still has to get under the car (and also have it high enough on jackstands/jack) to both drain the transaxle, and remove the fill plug anyway.
The tube method does NOT preclude the 'bother' of a jack and jack stands at all, unless one has access to a Jiffy Lube type 'pit' to change fluids.
The tube method does NOT preclude the 'bother' of a jack and jack stands at all, unless one has access to a Jiffy Lube type 'pit' to change fluids.
Similar threads
-
-
FS FS- CPE hot side pipe w/hoses, Mountune hot side pipe w/hose, GFB DV+ w/opt. modified OEM diverter valve- Started by Stevesims
- Replies: 0
-
Help. Not sure where to ask - Considering this ST link inside body. Not sure what I am doing. Good deal? Good mods?
- Started by SpeedandPower
- Replies: 13
-
-
Minor mod: installed a hidden 12v outlet to hide phone charger wiring- Started by celerystick009
- Replies: 0
-
-
-
