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Lowering spring install quote

Messages
493
Likes
643
Location
Sioux Falls, SD, USA
#21
I am attempting to install new struts/ springs tomorrow. I am not completely savvy with working on cars other than the basic stuff but it really doesn't look very hard from what I've seen so long as you have all the tools and some patience.

Me, I will try anything before I go to a shop.

Pro tip. On the rear struts use the smallest outside diameter top nut possible. On my Koni Orange that was the OEM nut, not the one supplied by Koni. A larger nut may make contact and cause some buzzing in the rear. I tested this theory on one side by accident.

Otherwise its all really pretty straight forward. My sway bar endlinks gave me enough grief getting them off of the OEM struts that it was fortunate I had a new set of endlinks on hand.
 


Mikey456

Active member
Messages
672
Likes
406
Location
Los Angeles
#22
The rears aren’t adjustable at all?? That seems strange to me


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No. They aren’t. U can look at my setup. I don’t run camber bolts because I already have negative 1 degree camber from lowering the car a inch and I don’t want to wear my 200 tread wear tires more quickly. I also run a 5mm spacer in the back which give me more stability (with a wider track) at higher cornering speeds and it looks better to boot. There are also a rear camber plate option if u need even more higher speed cornering stability. I don’t know what lowering springs you r going with but I would recommend driving your car first and getting used to the higher limits before spending extra. Get a set of sticky tires too if you want to go faster around the bends [emoji1]


2017 Ford Fiesta ST, Shadow Black, Recaro seats, Mountune RMM, Swift springs, 5mm rear spacers, Falken 615+ tires
 


SPhilli911

Active member
Messages
612
Likes
818
Location
Hartford, CT, USA
#23
Pro tip. On the rear struts use the smallest outside diameter top nut possible. On my Koni Orange that was the OEM nut, not the one supplied by Koni. A larger nut may make contact and cause some buzzing in the rear. I tested this theory on one side by accident.

Otherwise its all really pretty straight forward. My sway bar endlinks gave me enough grief getting them off of the OEM struts that it was fortunate I had a new set of endlinks on hand.
Thank you for the tip, I definitely wish I saw it before I did the install. I used the top nut supplied by Bilstein rather than the OEM and there is quite a bit of noise from rear.
 


kevinatfms

Senior Member
Messages
891
Likes
940
Location
Germantown
#24
Otherwise its all really pretty straight forward. My sway bar endlinks gave me enough grief getting them off of the OEM struts that it was fortunate I had a new set of endlinks on hand.
Pro Tip: Get the new Moog "problem solver" sway bar end links. They revised the end capture nut and balljoint to include a wrench holding position on the back side. This solves having to use an allen wrench to hold the balljoint center which usually strips.
 


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