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Engine Pull/Install

TyphoonFiST

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#21
Would rebuilding a used one be just as well as a new one from Mountune?
I’ve never built one so I don’t know how viable that options is to me.
I leave most of that to professionals....find a good engine builder and they can do anything. Plus with decades of knowledge factored in it can be really close and sometimes more than Mountune built engine who has a good track record for quality stuff.

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OP
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Thread Starter #22
I leave most of that to professionals....find a good engine builder and they can do anything. Plus with decades of knowledge factored in it can be really close and sometimes more than Mountune built engine who has a good track record for quality stuff.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
I have found a local shop about 6 hours away I could trailer the car too. I will see if he could rebuild the engine top to bottom with the Mountune stuff and see what the cost might be. The labor could wash it out in the end. Hope to follow up soon.
 


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#23
Would you trust a 120k mileage head on a $2200 new lower block? Or would you feel more comfortable spending a little more to ensure all parts are new and installed to spec?
it's common for muscle cars to have a base casting that's nearly 50 years old. The piece of metal itself isn't what wears, and you can do valve guides and springs for far less than $2800
 


OP
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Thread Starter #24
Fair enough. Though I’m a firm believer they make things to break and discard unlike the older vehicles that our elderly generation know of.
Either way I’ve found a junk yard about 7 hours away that has a few used ones for $6-1000. Maybe worth the trip.
 


MagnetiseST

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#25
imo the mountune stuff isn't worth the price. You're paying for their name, and there have been some threads here where the product is not as good as described. Build it yourself with your own machine shop for 1/3 the price. If there is no hole in your block then you can use it.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #26
imo the mountune stuff isn't worth the price. You're paying for their name, and there have been some threads here where the product is not as good as described. Build it yourself with your own machine shop for 1/3 the price. If there is no hole in your block then you can use it.
No holes, no. We just don't have many local machine shops so it would have to be sent away to be machined and checked over.

I am honestly hung up on the Mountune one because its $5900 shipped, and that included a lot of new parts that would need to be purchased and replaced anyway. I will have to sit down and really add everything up I think.

What would be labor time do you think to disassemble the engine and replace components?
 


MagnetiseST

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#27
No holes, no. We just don't have many local machine shops so it would have to be sent away to be machined and checked over.

I am honestly hung up on the Mountune one because its $5900 shipped, and that included a lot of new parts that would need to be purchased and replaced anyway. I will have to sit down and really add everything up I think.

What would be labor time do you think to disassemble the engine and replace components?
Considering all you would need to replace are the pistons / rods / bearings if you want a "built" engine. Whoosh sells a Weisco piston / k1 rod kit for 1,299. Good bearings will probably run about $120 for the entire set. Probably looking at a couple hundred to have the block checked, hot tanked, and assembled.

Assuming you do nothing with the cylinder head, I'd say somewhere between $2500-$3k depending on what all you end up replacing or if you did a balanced / polished crank. Throw in a modified camshaft and the timing components that should probably be replaced and you're sitting around ~$3800
 


OP
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Thread Starter #28
Considering all you would need to replace are the pistons / rods / bearings if you want a "built" engine. Whoosh sells a Weisco piston / k1 rod kit for 1,299. Good bearings will probably run about $120 for the entire set. Probably looking at a couple hundred to have the block checked, hot tanked, and assembled.

Assuming you do nothing with the cylinder head, I'd say somewhere between $2500-$3k depending on what all you end up replacing or if you did a balanced / polished crank. Throw in a modified camshaft and the timing components that should probably be replaced and you're sitting around ~$3800
Id probably want the valves and stuff redone. If I am going to have the engine built, I might as well build it. There is no point in my opinion to just half build it.

I will take a look at the Weisco setup, has this been proven on anyones builds?
 


MagnetiseST

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#29
Not many people have needed built engines since the stock one is more than capable of handling over 400whp.

Building our cylinder heads really doesn't do much, cost vs power gained wise. Replacing the valve seals and valves isn't a built head, but refreshing the parts is a good idea.

Also don't bother with the S280 if you're going to build it, wait for the S290 and get that.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #30
Not many people have needed built engines since the stock one is more than capable of handling over 400whp.

Building our cylinder heads really doesn't do much, cost vs power gained wise. Replacing the valve seals and valves isn't a built head, but refreshing the parts is a good idea.

Also don't bother with the S280 if you're going to build it, wait for the S290 and get that.
I have spent the last couple months not active on the forums....so I missed this. S290 is in the works? I have not decided 100% on the S280, just that it has the most common praise out of all the turbos that do not have E30 available to them. I have 93oct at best.
 


MagnetiseST

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#31
I have spent the last couple months not active on the forums....so I missed this. S290 is in the works? I have not decided 100% on the S280, just that it has the most common praise out of all the turbos that do not have E30 available to them. I have 93oct at best.
Yup S290 is on its way, requiring a forged engine to extract the most out of it.

You could also get a 2860 or 2867
 


OP
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Thread Starter #32
Yup S290 is on its way, requiring a forged engine to extract the most out of it.

You could also get a 2860 or 2867
Im not in any rush to get this done so I can wait. I had hoped to source a used turbo, but I never seem to have the cash when one pops up.

So basically forging the bottom end and replacing springs etc is the best way to go over the Mountune blocks in the consensus?

I tried searching for a build parts list but could not find one. I'll try to scour TASCA Parts and see what I can find out.

At minimum things like the timing belt and water pump, etc would be replaced I would think.

What upgraded internal parts would you personally recommend if you were going to do this?

The weisco setup or the Mountune one, what about things the the Mountune oil baffle? I know in the WRX side of things oil pickup was a weak point. Much more knowledge on that side of things compared to the Fiesta side.
 


MagnetiseST

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#33
Forging the bottom end is exactly what mountune is doing just using their own name and parts.

If I were doing it and had no goals over 400whp, I would leave it stock. Buy a used engine and refresh it / inspect for damage. Thats it.

If i were going all out I'd take a look at the pumaspeed website and see what they have to offer as well. Weisco is a great brand of piston, k1 makes good rods but there may be other options out there.

Definitely go for the baffle if you're having the pan off, i will once i have a need to remove mine.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #34
Forging the bottom end is exactly what mountune is doing just using their own name and parts.

If I were doing it and had no goals over 400whp, I would leave it stock. Buy a used engine and refresh it / inspect for damage. Thats it.

If i were going all out I'd take a look at the pumaspeed website and see what they have to offer as well. Weisco is a great brand of piston, k1 makes good rods but there may be other options out there.

Definitely go for the baffle if you're having the pan off, i will once i have a need to remove mine.
I'd like to make some bigger power, just not right off. If the engine is open, I figure a grand is not much to spend for insurance and confidence. I am currently making phone calls to machine shops and local shops before branching out to see what their thoughts are.
 


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#35
Considering all you would need to replace are the pistons / rods / bearings if you want a "built" engine. Whoosh sells a Weisco piston / k1 rod kit for 1,299. Good bearings will probably run about $120 for the entire set. Probably looking at a couple hundred to have the block checked, hot tanked, and assembled.

Assuming you do nothing with the cylinder head, I'd say somewhere between $2500-$3k depending on what all you end up replacing or if you did a balanced / polished crank. Throw in a modified camshaft and the timing components that should probably be replaced and you're sitting around ~$3800
Surprisingly, mountune is even cheaper than whoosh! (At least now)
https://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-Forged-1-6L-Ecoboost-Engine-Component-Kit-p/6064-ek-aa.htm
 


M-Sport fan

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#36
Yup S290 is on its way, requiring a forged engine to extract the most out of it.
Will it be the case where it could yield more power than the S280 given both NOT using aux fuel, or radical, 'edgy' tunes, and all of the other 'extras', without doing a full forged build?
(In the same way those who 'do not need', or even want, more than ~275 or so to the wheels do with the S280. [wink])

Or would it just end up way too 'laggy' without the auxiliary stuff, and the timing advance in the tune allowed by the built bottom end? [dunno]
 


MagnetiseST

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#37
Will it be the case where it could yield more power than the S280 given both NOT using aux fuel, or radical, 'edgy' tunes, and all of the other 'extras', without doing a full forged build?
(In the same way those who 'do not need', or even want, more than ~275 or so to the wheels do with the S280. [wink])

Or would it just end up way too 'laggy' without the auxiliary stuff, and the timing advance in the tune allowed by the built bottom end? [dunno]
It would make the power in a different place than the s280, its designed for peak power, not necessarily a good driving powerband.
 




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