Modding FAQ: A Beginners Guide to Modding the Fiesta ST

[SerialBrain2]

 

[SerialBrain2]

using regular 1" tall 1/2" width home depot foam and black rtv as the "glue"

 

[danbfree]

using regular 1" tall 1/2" width home depot foam and black rtv as the "glue"

Thanks man! I would likely do that for sure but I already have a Mishimoto clone radiator waiting to go in and since that is obviously thicker I'll have to see how much gap is left after install... And the thing is, is that this clone did not include the new fan bracket the actual Mishimoto includes (and can't buy separately) and have no idea if the stock one will work with some modifications, ugh... But for noobs, this is nearly a must do, you need to help the stock radiator all you can, which is barely larger than a regular non-ST Fiesta. Also, despite what some people claim, if you only use HALF the bottle as instructed for our stock cooling capacity, dropping from a 50/50 coolant water mix to only 30% coolant and half bottle of Water Wetter definitely helps too. You still get freeze protection down close to 0F, so for those who have really cold winters and still drive their FiST during that time will need to bring that ratio back up, but likely wouldn't apply to many people.

 

[SerialBrain2]

I will say, I come from a 2005 Nissan sentra spec v which I added a t3/t4 turbo with tune from 2j racing. The car would overheat standing in traffic if I was running the AC, which in Florida is a necessity. So I put in an all aluminum radiator with a slim fit shroud and 2 high performance Spal fans with lower temp thermostats. Still overheated. I took foam tape and sealed the shroud to the radiator - no more overheating. So I am a firm believer having obtained real world results.

 

[danbfree]

I will say, I come from a 2005 Nissan sentra spec v which I added a t3/t4 turbo with tune from 2j racing. The car would overheat standing in traffic if I was running the AC, which in Florida is a necessity. So I put in an all aluminum radiator with a slim fit shroud and 2 high performance Spal fans with lower temp thermostats. Still overheated. I took foam tape and sealed the shroud to the radiator - no more overheating. So I am a firm believer having obtained real world results.

Wow, that's really good to hear and something that should REALLY be suggested more in our community! Thanks for bringing it up here!

 

[M-Sport fan]

Also, despite what some people claim, if you only use HALF the bottle as instructed for our stock cooling capacity, dropping from a 50/50 coolant water mix to only 30% coolant and half bottle of Water Wetter definitely helps too. You still get freeze protection down close to 0F, so for those who have really cold winters and still drive their FiST during that time will need to bring that ratio back up, but likely wouldn't apply to many people.

As a matter of course, when the ambient temps start to stay in the 80s during the day with my factory radiator, I drop/dilute the coolant mix with distilled water by just pumping out the overflow reservoir multiple times, with the final fill including a full bottle of the Lubegard Kool It additive.

I also used the Depot bought, silver foil heat duct tape on the very warped away from the radiator bottom of my factory fan shroud, and will do the same for the top, along with the foam insulation tip above.

I want the Pro Alloy radiator, I just don't know (and it seems that NO ONE can even tell me one way or the other) IF it has any more 'over-temp headroom' capacity than the lower priced Mountune.
(Just being potentially 'prettier' does not cut it. )

 

[danbfree]

As a matter of course, when the ambient temps start to stay in the 80s during the day with my factory radiator, I drop/dilute the coolant mix with distilled water by just pumping out the overflow reservoir multiple times, with the final fill including a full bottle of the Lubegard Kool It additive.

I also used the Depot bought, silver foil heat duct tape on the very warped away from the radiator bottom of my factory fan shroud, and will do the same for the top, along with the foam insulation tip above.

I want the Pro Alloy radiator, I just don't know (and it seems that NO ONE can even tell me one way or the other) IF it has any more 'over-temp headroom' capacity than the lower priced Mountune.
(Just being potentially 'prettier' does not cut it. )

So, basically, the factory fan shroud can be made to fit it sounds like, and using the ducting and sponge tape sealed the bent away area and whatnot, I can visualize that kind of... But what I did was just pump out the reservoir once really good and added straight water and Water Wetter, and I think that dropped the ratio down to 40% at least, and every little bit under 50% helps additives work even better.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I did the tank drain/water refill thing multiple times because for the winter, I go to a greater than 50% coolant content (like 60%-65%), using this same method, so to get it to even a 60/40 water to coolant ratio, I must dilute the solution more than most would need to do.

 

[danbfree]

I did the tank drain/water refill thing multiple times because for the winter, I go to a greater than 50% coolant content (like 60%-65%), using this same method, so to get it to even a 60/40 water to coolant ratio, I must dilute the solution more than most would need to do.

AHH, I see exactly what you mean now, that makes total sense!

 

[New_Daily]

Excellent list! To add:

-Immediately drain and refill transmission with 2L of real full synthetic GL4 gear oil whether brand new or old (unless you know for sure it's been done already of course). Factory uses DCT fluid for convenience with the shit box DCT being installed in the same factory AND comes under-filled. You will not believe the difference in shift feel and avoid developing gear whine.

- If you do the symposer delete, your car will be dangerously quiet inside with no engine feedback at all, you will find yourself subconsciously stepping on it and driving too fast without the feedback. So while exhaust mods makes nearly zero power gains, a simple glasspack muffler swap on the rear sounds good and deep and gives you decent feedback without drone or excess noise.

- Just a hotside pipe with resonator delete helps spool a touch and adds justa touch of nice whoosh noises without being loud at all.

-If you are planning on tuning and going with e30+ tunes, you probably will want to do the PowerFlex inserts for the upper motor mounts and not do just the RMM. Especially if you are going to upgrade the passenger side bolt anyway, but you really should do both sides to avoid feeling peg-legged under hard throttle by just doing passenger side only. The driver side is a bit of a pain to do, but so worth upgrading all 3 mounts and the inserts for the uppers are only $80 for both. This help traction and torques steer significantly, and adding a traction bar or torque gusset helps even more and in cornering itself too.

- For budget suspension upgrades, go with either Eibach springs for an incredible difference in ride quality or Swift Spec-R for most all out performance, not much need to do more. The stock shocks are both too stiff and too high, and between these 2 choices of springs you get the proper balance depending on which is more important. Keep in mind no matter what is listed, the Eibach is a full 1.1"/1.0" drop much like the Swift but does not rub or scrape much at all even with more suspension travel with it's progressive rate

For your #7 foam tape thing, can you describe it better where t tape or have pics? I really want to try this! I'm also considering cutting the excess flaps and crap off the fan shroud itself too.

Yeah, I'm looking at sealing gaps between the rad and fan shroud also, Take a look at the thread from @shawn36 and the pics he posted:

https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/mountune-radiator-install-notes.15059/#lg=thread-15059&slide=6

I'm looking to do it a little different when I do my Mountune rad install, especially on the sides. I think I'm going to get some D rubber seal and put it on the inside of the fan shroud, at least for the sides. It may need to be on top for the top. Here's the seal I'm probably going to get

https://www.grainger.com/product/TRIM-LOK-INC-Rubber-Seal-48RM46

It's expensive and I certainly don't need 25' but they won't sell by the foot. You can find smaller for much cheaper, but in looking at the pics on the above link it looks like there's at least a 1" gap from the inside surface of the shroud and the rad.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^That might even be a bit better at handling the external heat radiated by the radiator, than the foam window/door insulation stuff.

 

[New_Daily]

^^^That might even be a bit better at handling the external heat radiated by the radiator, than the foam window insulation stuff.

Just ordered the roll from the link above. After tax and shipping it was $70 Whaaaaaaatever. Spent the money on the Mountune rad, might as well do everything to maximize the performance of the system and only do the job once while installing the rad.

 

[New_Daily]

The seal showed up. Looks pretty good. Hopefully start the rad install maybe this weekend. I’ll take a bunch of pics on where I put this stuff.

 

[SerialBrain2]

$70 for tape? i think thats way overboard...why not just use the $4 door edge foam from home depot...i had it on my sentra right next to the turbo...man it was so hot you couldnt touch it...but it lived there till i blew the head gasket - 60k miles...
$70 sealant tape...no need for that.

 

[New_Daily]

$70 for tape? i think thats way overboard...why not just use the $4 door edge foam from home depot...i had it on my sentra right next to the turbo...man it was so hot you couldnt touch it...but it lived there till i blew the head gasket - 60k miles...
$70 sealant tape...no need for that.

Foam looks like shit and I want to do a quality job that looks The part as well as it performs.

It was expensive mostly cause 25ft is the least amount I could buy and they charged $13 for shipping (which was hilarious, a box that the seal fit at the bottom then it was about 1.5’ tall 🙄). If I had been able to buy maybe 8 ish ft it would have been a much better price.

But when I’m done I know it will last. The rubber is the same stuff the coolant hoses are made out of. And I’ll be happy with how it looks and performs.

 

[SerialBrain2]

nobody will see it so how it looks is really irrelevant. to take that picture I had to lean way over and focus inward...it is normally not seen

 

[New_Daily]

nobody will see it so how it looks is really irrelevant. to take that picture I had to lean way over and focus inward...it is normally not seen

You can see the OEM foam around the radiator which will all be replaced on the new rad as well as added between the rad and fan shroud. Also, rubber seal works better than foam.

But the other thing you seem to be missing: my car, my money, my choice. Do you generally make a habit of arguing with people over what they should do with their cars?

 

[SerialBrain2]

a little touchy? $70 is really a lot to pay for foam which will not work any better or last longer.
If you leave the hood open a lot and often have groups of people standing around staring directly at the radiator then maybe I could see spending 20 times more than needed.... thats all Im sayin

 

[New_Daily]

a little touchy? $70 is really a lot to pay for foam which will not work any better or last longer.
If you leave the hood open a lot and often have groups of people standing around staring directly at the radiator then maybe I could see spending 20 times more than needed.... thats all Im sayin

Nope.

As noted, what I got was rubber not foam. Rubber is better than foam in both performance and looks.

Had to spend that much cause I couldn't buy a smaller amount. But I've already explained all this.

What's "needed" is subjective to each person and their car and their goals for the car. Your "needed" is different than my "needed".

 

[SerialBrain2]

well, we will have to disagree on the performance and durability for this particular application. Rubber is a stronger tougher material in general but those qualities are not utilized here. I had foam on my sentra spec v with a turbo sitting literally on top of the radiator (top mount treadstone turbo kit for sentra) you could boil water off my hood and the foam never distorted, peeled away, or even turned color...it was perfect and its better than rubber in this application because you can depress it easily to quickly adjust for varying heights, is more easy to shape and bend, and easier to apply, easier to locate product, inexpensive to aquire, and does the job as intended as well as any other material. ...as far as Looks better...if i didnt get black rtv on my hands when working the foam it would look nicer but I didnt care. When I pop the hood you dont notice unless I point right to it. and since the foam mod it hasnt overheated a single time. But hey to each their own.