shouldbeasy's 'not a build' build.

[shouldbeasy]

I took my catalytic converter in to a local shop yesterday and netted $71 back so that was great - certainly helps to offset the cost of the upgraded downpipe.

Word to the wise, google 'catalytic converters' in your area and go directly to the specialty shop - if you take it in to a wrecker they're going to low ball you and then just take it in to the specialty shop themselves.

 

[shouldbeasy]

Tune is progressing well - some decent graphs which are corrected to ambient conditions best I can do - the numbers seem to be around 275 whp and 305 lb*ft. I've just submitted some more logs and am anxiously waiting the change to race gas. I'm curious to see what sort of performance bump I can get when adding it to 94 octane.

 

[shouldbeasy]

Went to the local truck stop and weighed each corner of the car;

Front Driver - 430 kg / 947 lbs
Front Passenger - 370 kg / 815 lbs
Rear Driver - 300 kg / 661 lbs
Rear Passenger - 290 kg / 639 lbs

Total Weight with me (200lbs) dog (70lbs) and cat and carrier (15 lbs) along with a near full tank of gas = 1390 kg / 3064 lbs

When corner balancing it became clear that 'Deciding which wheel to adjust is the key. Look at the left and right sides of the imbalanced Corner Balance Equation. Balance can be achieved by increasing weight of the front wheel of the low numeric side or increasing weight of the rear wheel of the high numeric side. Alternatively balance can be achieved by decreasing weight of the rear wheel of the low numeric side or decreasing weight of the front wheel of the high numeric side.'

So, I'll be increasing the height of the Passenger Front coil over initially with hopes that the 50/50 cross balance will become closer.

LF = RF
LR RR

947 = 815 1.433 = 1.275 So, I need to get more weight to the passenger side - it will increase the right hand ratio while also
661 639 decreasing the left hand ratio.

 

[shouldbeasy]

Managed to get the car out to the mountains for some fun - ended up driving it for around 6 hours back and forth on a favourite road of mine. I took a few videos, here's one of the exhaust note while cruising around a boat launch. I still enjoy ripping it around with no music on as the exhaust is the only thing I want to hear! GoPro Mic hardly does it any justice... at least there is a noticeable change when the intake noise comes through as it's easy to hear when driving.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6DewHBWELY&feature=youtu.be

 

[shouldbeasy]

Also, this video preaches the benefits of low end torque and having a car you can enjoy 'below' the speed limit.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUO5bp-wyLU

 

[MRX430]

Also, this video preaches the benefits of low end torque and having a car you can enjoy 'below' the speed limit.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUO5bp-wyLU

Get an EFR turbo to enjoy torque and horsepower. Life’s too short to limit yourself to just torque. 👌

 

[shouldbeasy]

Well, time at home means time in the garage (and also having my 3rd Gen 4Runner running well) so the Fiesta is in for some of its last major surgeries - I don't foresee adding anything else after this point, just flares and tires!

- Quaife LSD
- Mountune Radiator
- Mountune Radiator Hoses
- WRC Hood Vents
- Re-Designed Skid Plate - incorporating front low pressure zones
- Whoosh 5th Injector Kit (just to clean intake valves really, I don't need the fueling at my elevation)
- Motor Mount Inserts - Passenger and Driver

Pictures to follow.... This will be a bit of a slow burn, no real rush to get it done.

 

[shouldbeasy]

Doing some research on bearings and such for the car and the LSD install it's become apparent that the differential bearings are hard to come by currently - the race (cup) especially.

From what I've gathered, Tasca lists the Differential Bearing HERE, which has a definitive R38Z-24 as double checked by this reddit post by /u/sluggyjunx HERE. So, trying to cross reference this R38Z-24 is not easy but I believe this Russian (?) site HERE lists the proper cup size when utilizing 'standard' part numbers as Timken LM29749/LM29711. This is backed up by a random bearing website which lists the same cup size as an alternative HERE. The LM29711 is the cup we need!

NTN and TImken are the only 'real' suppliers of theses otherwise you get in to Chinesium territory - I wouldn't even order off Amazon as I was shipped some Chinesium instead of the SKF ordered... frustrating.

So, new bearings will be a week (that race is hard to come by - out of the USA) and so I'll get everything sorted and prepped that I can in order to be ready for it. Purchased locally!!

Car looks pretty sad with the entire front end off and gearbox out!!

I figure I've come this far, might as well add the $200 clutch to the works so I'll have a brand new one in. Lastly, I've pulled the turbo in order to get it spec'd out for a repair kit so 'we' in North America can FINALLY have a repair kit for the X-47 which can be installed locally and avoid stupid shipping charges to the UK. This was in the works a while ago but the local guys didn't understand my request the first time so... here we are the second time.
Besides stripping the fuckin' oil drain hose torx it was easy enough to pull the turbo for the 4th time! I found a replacement BOLT for that stupid T-30 screw. Not dealing with that again.

 

[TDavis]

Doing some research on bearings and such for the car and the LSD install it's become apparent that the differential bearings are hard to come by currently - the race (cup) especially.

From what I've gathered, Tasca lists the Differential Bearing HERE, which has a definitive R38Z-24 as double checked by this reddit post by /u/sluggyjunx HERE. So, trying to cross reference this R38Z-24 is not easy but I believe this Russian (?) site HERE lists the proper cup size when utilizing 'standard' part numbers as Timken LM29749/LM29711. This is backed up by a random bearing website which lists the same cup size as an alternative HERE. The LM29711 is the cup we need!

NTN and TImken are the only 'real' suppliers of theses otherwise you get in to Chinesium territory - I wouldn't even order off Amazon as I was shipped some Chinesium instead of the SKF ordered... frustrating.

So, new bearings will be a week (that race is hard to come by - out of the USA) and so I'll get everything sorted and prepped that I can in order to be ready for it. Purchased locally!!

Car looks pretty sad with the entire front end off and gearbox out!!

I figure I've come this far, might as well add the $200 clutch to the works so I'll have a brand new one in. Lastly, I've pulled the turbo in order to get it spec'd out for a repair kit so 'we' in North America can FINALLY have a repair kit for the X-47 which can be installed locally and avoid stupid shipping charges to the UK. This was in the works a while ago but the local guys didn't understand my request the first time so... here we are the second time.
Besides stripping the fuckin' oil drain hose torx it was easy enough to pull the turbo for the 4th time! I found a replacement BOLT for that stupid T-30 screw. Not dealing with that again.

I work in the Parts Dept. at a Ford dealer here and I looked up the bearings on the LSD and they're indeed on backorder. They plan to be off backorder around 5/15/20. What race do you speak of? If its on the LSD then it should come with the bearing.

 

[shouldbeasy]

I work in the Parts Dept. at a Ford dealer here and I looked up the bearings on the LSD and they're indeed on backorder. They plan to be off backorder around 5/15/20. What race do you speak of? If its on the LSD then it should come with the bearing.

Through this link - HERE - You can see the two individual pieces of the tapered roller bearing.

 

[TDavis]

Through this link - HERE - You can see the two individual pieces of the tapered roller bearing.

Yep, thats the part number I get in my Ford catalog and is the one on backorder until approximately 5/15/20

 

[shouldbeasy]

Yep, thats the part number I get in my Ford catalog and is the one on backorder until approximately 5/15/20

I'm ordering them as two separate pieces - the race part number is specific to the automotive industry which leads to a bit of a run around finding a part utilizing the normal nomenclature of Timken, NTN etc.


Thankfully I think I've found it - the LM29711 is a odd spec'd race which isn't common, I've gone this route to ensure proper stack height and bearing compression when reinstalling. The differences in bearing width were significant - OD and ID were identical to more readily available LM29710

 

[shouldbeasy]

I'll be adding some down bars on the plates down to the bar corners. I never liked how the DHM was showing, mine is tucked and you'll only see my Lightforce lights. Tabs for those to come tomorrow. All tacked up with the crappy welder, I'll take it off and hit it with my Miller which is at my parents.

And some gold wrapping...

 

[Woods247]

That’s awesome! Are you a Toyota truck guy too? I have a couple of them 😉

 

[shouldbeasy]

That’s awesome! Are you a Toyota truck guy too? I have a couple of them 😉

Ya, that's my baby - 2001 4Runner, supercharged, 7th injector, 2.2 URD pulley makes around 8 PSI boost. Regeared and it still gets up and goes pretty good with the 35" mudders. Full skid plates, fully locked - 3 lockers!

Learned how to modify vehicles with the 4Runner - having it be an offroad beast is handy as I don't have to worry about making it pretty - it just had to work.

Now I use that mentality on the Fiesta, only trying to add what actually provides performance and not just because of looks.

 

[KnockOff]

I'm thinking about making a crash bar out of 2x2 squar tube. Cromoly is lighter and stronger but harder to weld and Less forgiving in a crash. MASCAR uses mild steel in their frames and some of those cars wreck then go back out. Drag cars use cromoly, when they wreck that thing is done. I don't care about weight. I just think it would be fun to make and would be different.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[shouldbeasy]

I'm thinking about making a crash bar out of 2x2 squar tube. Cromoly is lighter and stronger but harder to weld and Less forgiving in a crash. MASCAR uses mild steel in their frames and some of those cars wreck then go back out. Drag cars use cromoly, when they wreck that thing is done. I don't care about weight. I just think it would be fun to make and would be different.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I'm not sure what you're getting at here... When something deforms it absorbs the energy from the impact and reduces the forces transferred to the driver - having something that is sturdy and doesn't deform (wreck and go back out) means all those forces went in to you / whatever else can move - you've just shuffled the weak link in to something stronger.

Today's fun was finalizing the welding - got it done and it's super beefy - heavier than stock but I can at least put my skid plate on and then apply all the down forces I want! Maybe splitter time!

 

[shouldbeasy]

Tow ring mounts are sleeved - I should get a couple pics of those when the crash bars are mounted up again (I've also got the rear off).

 

[KnockOff]

I'm not sure what you're getting at here... When something deforms it absorbs the energy from the impact and reduces the forces transferred to the driver - having something that is sturdy and doesn't deform (wreck and go back out) means all those forces went in to you / whatever else can move - you've just shuffled the weak link in to something stronger.

Today's fun was finalizing the welding - got it done and it's super beefy - heavier than stock but I can at least put my skid plate on and then apply all the down forces I want! Maybe splitter time!

That looks sick! Nothing against anyone with a cromoly crash bar at all what so ever. Mild steel will absorb a lot in my opinion. I dont have the tools or ability to make a bar like yours. As long as the mild steel is close to as strong as stock I want to make 1.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[shouldbeasy]

That looks sick! Nothing against anyone with a cromoly crash bar at all what so ever. Mild steel will absorb a lot in my opinion. I dont have the tools or ability to make a bar like yours. As long as the mild steel is close to as strong as stock I want to make 1.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

No offence taken! It was more a comment regarding material deforming and WHY it deforms which is why newer cars are like helmets - crash them once and get a new one. They are designed to 'fold' and absorb energy which renders them inoperable for future use.

And thanks! Sand blasting it today I hope.