Suspension Refresh OEM Part #'s

[Phishy]

I am doing shocks and springs soon and want to replace everything in the front and assemble ahead so I can just swap the whole strut assembly. I have the part numbers for the strut mounts, bearings and dust boots, what else do I need, the strut top nut and...?

Anyone have an exploded view of the front struts with part numbers? If not I can go to the dealer thursday and get the run down.

 

[JDG]

https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-par...ont-suspension-cat/struts-and-components-scat

 

[Phishy]

Thank you!

 

[The_Ryan]

Keep in mind, there is a different part number for the struts (item 1) between model years 14-15 and some 15-16+, make sure you get the correct one for your vehicle (VIN check on Tasca). A lot of the genuine motorcraft parts can be found on RockAuto for a good bit cheaper than Tasca as well (and they ship faster).

Spring isolator (item 8) was on back-order last I checked as well, took about a month and a half to get mine so shop around to try to find a place that has them "in stock" if you want to get them soon.

I would also spend the extra and get new swaybar links in the event you strip them during removal (they're easy to strip). They're not expensive and it's worth the peace of mind even if you don't end up needing them.


edit: I got to say going this route of pre-assembling struts w/ springs is certainly the way to go. I went this route and replacing the F&R springs and dampers took me under 2 hours

 

[JDG]

Keep in mind, there is a different part number for the struts (item 1) between model years 14-15 and some 15-16+, make sure you get the correct one for your vehicle (VIN check on Tasca). A lot of the genuine motorcraft parts can be found on RockAuto for a good bit cheaper than Tasca as well (and they ship faster).

Spring isolator (item 8) was on back-order last I checked as well, took about a month and a half to get mine so shop around to try to find a place that has them "in stock" if you want to get them soon.

I would also spend the extra and get new swaybar links in the event you strip them during removal (they're easy to strip). They're not expensive and it's worth the peace of mind even if you don't end up needing them.


edit: I got to say going this route of pre-assembling struts w/ springs is certainly the way to go. I went this route and replacing the F&R springs and dampers took me under 2 hours

The 2016+ struts/springs are more desirable due to better ride quality FYI. They will fit the older model years.

 

[The_Ryan]

The 2016+ struts/springs are more desirable due to better ride quality FYI. They will fit the older model years.

Some people might find the softer ride more desireable, but I wouldn't say for sure it's overall an improvement.

The new dampers are paired with a new front swaybar. So to maintain the performance of the suspension I'd recommend sticking to whatever one your car came with (unless you plan to change the sway bar as well). If it were a 1-to-1 swap, Ford would have revised the part (like they did with the FoRS dampers) instead of making a new part number and maintaining the old one.

 

[JDG]

Some people might find the softer ride more desireable, but I wouldn't say for sure it's overall an improvement.

The new dampers are paired with a new front swaybar. So to maintain the performance of the suspension I'd recommend sticking to whatever one your car came with (unless you plan to change the sway bar as well). If it were a 1-to-1 swap, Ford would have revised the part (like they did with the FoRS dampers) instead of making a new part number and maintaining the old one.

As someone who has driven both cars, it is definitely an improvement and I think 99% of folks would agree. You are right thought that front swaybar and rear torsion beams were stiffened 33%. We have hashed this out before, so I won't say any more.

 

[The_Ryan]

Same here, and I agree, the newer setup is better. The point I was just making is that the change isn't just the dampers, and that without making the additional changes of sway bars you could be sacrificing some performance. (Which some people may accept in exchange for a better ride)

 

[Capri to ST]

I believe the newer suspension setup came on all cars with a build date from 2/16/16 on. You can see that in this parts diagram and list, where it shows a different part number from that date on for the struts-
https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-par...ont-suspension-cat/struts-and-components-scat

I also like the new setup better.

 

[M-Sport fan]

The 2016+ struts/springs are more desirable due to better ride quality FYI. They will fit the older model years.

Did the actual spring rates change at all between those years, or was it solely the damper valving that was toyed with to get the 'cushier' ride??

 

[The_Ryan]

Did the actual spring rates change at all between those years, or was it solely the damper valving that was toyed with to get the 'cushier' ride??

For the fronts:
Springs are the same part number. Struts are different; new ones are softer, and sway-bar is different; new one is stiffer

For the rear
Twist beam is different; new one is stiffer, everything else is the same.

 

[Sam4]

You'll soon discover how mushy the motor mounts are...

 

[Phishy]

Working through the installation. Why is my top mount/bushing /bearing off kilter and lot level like the OEM stuff?

Th OEM is the passenger side as it came off the car, new stuff is the drivers side. Eibach says install with the writing on the springs facing right side up, but that seems orient them at an angle?

 

[Phishy]

Flipped the spring around with the writing upside down and its still canted at the top.

 

[SteveS]

Looks like the OEM spring finishes with a wrap that levels off and the Eibach ends still angled.

 

[Phishy]

I put them in as they were, writing right side up. Still looks odd to me that the top turrets are at such an angle compared to stock. Everything seemed good when it was all back together.

I will go into detail more when I have time tomorrow or soon but the rock auto shock boots and bump stops are not at all correct, and my top sway bar end link nuts had red death loctite on them and could not be removed from the struts. New motorcraft end links don't come with nuts.

 

[Phishy]

Took it for a quick spin around the block and something is definitely not right. Feels/sounds like something is loose and rattly in the front. Checked sway bar end links, two big bottom strut bolts, 3 on top underhood, strut top nut, everything tight. When I reach up in there the spring and what I can feel of the top mount all feels tight.

Any ideas? I has to be in the strut mount or bearing?

 

[The_Ryan]

Maybe you weren't able to torque down the top but properly due to how the spring is sitting.

 

[Phishy]

Maybe you weren't able to torque down the top but properly due to how the spring is sitting.

Bingo. Redid everything and got the top nuts torqued down where they should be and after a quick test drive it seems all tight and right now.

Goes a lot quicker doing it the second time in two days.

 

[Phishy]

A few miles on it now and all seems good. Alignment later this week or next depending on how soon my replacement wheel shows up.

Thanks for the help with the part numbers and trouble shooting to those that contributed in this thread.