What is a good lightweight lug nut?

[DieselMech]

I went with SR 35's vs the 48's because of the corrosion that showed up when I had them on my Mazdaspeed 3. Yet to have any issues with the 35's. That being said if someone has I'd really like to know!

 

[KyleS]

I have had good luck with Gorilla 20033SD Open Ended Lugs. Can't beat them for for price and they are significantly lighter then stock. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O0CCLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NQB9CbE7SBHXZ

 

[maestromaestro]

So, what issues do y'all have with the OEM lugs nuts? I am not going to accept the argument that they are "too heavy" and so you need to go for Mg or Ti @ $15 a pop. Just don't supersize your McNuggets, and here's your weight savings.

So, it must be something else - stripped threads? Deformation from using the rattle gun? This is academic for me - I have long sold the Rados and use aftermarket acorns. (To that end, these Gorillas are absolute garbage when it comes to not chipping.)

 

[DieselMech]

So, what issues do y'all have with the OEM lugs nuts? I am not going to accept the argument that they are "too heavy" and so you need to go for Mg or Ti @ $15 a pop. Just don't supersize your McNuggets, and here's your weight savings.

So, it must be something else - stripped threads? Deformation from using the rattle gun? This is academic for me - I have long sold the Rados and use aftermarket acorns. (To that end, these Gorillas are absolute garbage when it comes to not chipping.)

The outer cap on them is softer than butter, they started shitting out of me after taking them on and off only a few times.


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[maestromaestro]

The outer cap on them is softer than butter, they started shitting out of me after taking them on and off only a few times.


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So - is this aesthetics? Can't be any different in the ability to keep the torque - just like open-ended ones.

 

[DieselMech]

So - is this aesthetics? Can't be any different in the ability to keep the torque - just like open-ended ones.

I wouldn’t consider tearing open the end of the lug aesthetic, and even if it was, that’s not what I’m trusting to hold the only contact I have with the street on my car. The integrity of the lug nut is compromised at that point, a closed end lug should act and operate as one.


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[maestromaestro]

I wouldn’t consider tearing open the end of the lug aesthetic, and even if it was, that’s not what I’m trusting to hold the only contact I have with the street on my car.


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It would be unsightly, but it's the seat of the nut that interfaces with the wheel that determines the bolting actions, so - no issues with the safety, if you can achieve the required 110 lbs-ft.

 

[DieselMech]

It would be unsightly, but it's the seat of the nut that interfaces with the wheel that determines the bolting actions, so - no issues with the safety, if you can achieve the required 110 lbs-ft.

True, but as a closed lug it’s manufactured to thread to a certain point and stop. Exceeding that subjects it to conditions it wasn’t designed for. If it’s made for a set amount of threads I’d want to keep it at that designed limit. The face may be what interfaces with the wheel but I’m more concerned with its ability to stay at 110ftlbs also.


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[maestromaestro]

True, but as a closed lug it’s manufactured to thread to a certain point and stop. Exceeding that subjects it to conditions it wasn’t designed for. If it’s made for a set amount of threads I’d want to keep it at that designed limit. The face may be what interfaces with the wheel but I’m more concerned with its ability to stay at 110ftlbs also.


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You need to achieve a certain MINIMUM engagement of the threads (people use 8 turns as a rule of thumb), past that it doesn't matter. So, if you did get the 8 turns and got the required torque applied, you are OK. But, I wouldn't drive with ugly wheels... [emoji51]

 

[DieselMech]

You need to achieve a certain MINIMUM engagement of the threads (people use 8 turns as a rule of thumb), past that it doesn't matter. So, if you did get the 8 turns and got the required torque applied, you are OK. But, I wouldn't drive with ugly wheels... [emoji51]

Maybe it’s just the technician side of me but I’m a perfectionist when it comes to those kinds of things and operate on a don’t use a small grade bolt for a high torque application mindset. In my mind everything is engineered (especially in heavy diesel) for specific torque, stress, heat etc, When it’s compromised, it’s gotta go imo.


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[maestromaestro]

Maybe it’s just the technician side of me but I’m a perfectionist when it comes to those kinds of things and operate on a don’t use a small grade bolt for a high torque application mindset. In my mind everything is engineered (especially in heavy diesel) for specific torque, stress, heat etc, When it’s compromised, it’s gotta go imo.


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No argument here. You should use the materials that are fit-for-service: so, your example of a lower strength (grade) bolt is spot on. What I'm saying that certain things - like a smooshed cap is not a safety/operation-impacting issue. After all, the cap doesn't stop the nut from the further engagement, quite the opposite - it shouldn't (again, what with the open-ended variety).

 

[DieselMech]

No argument here. You should use the materials that are fit-for-service: so, your example of a lower strength (grade) bolt is spot on. What I'm saying that certain things - like a smooshed cap is not a safety/operation-impacting issue. After all, the cap doesn't stop the nut from the further engagement, quite the opposite - it shouldn't (again, what with the open-ended variety).

I see what you’re saying, my emphasis is that it was originally a closed lug and then it wasn’t. Regardless if it operated the same, I’ve lost my faith in said component, and that’s my thought on almost all parts. No argument from me, we just may feel differently on this one topic in particular is all.


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[Capri to ST]

There was another thread on here that described the problem with the original lug nuts as moisture getting in between the two pieces of the lug nuts. They would then swell and deform and you couldn't get a standard size lug wrench on them. This was my primary motivation in replacing them, to avoid that problem, saving a little weight was an incidental benefit.
https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/swollen-lug-nuts.12751/

 

[mdude58]

Another reason to lose the stock nuts: I had the same type on my SVT Focus and one lost its outer cap. The only socket I could get to fit well enough to remove it was a Whitworth size from my British car tool set.

 

[AZSP33D]

For another perspective... Check out FlyingMiata it Good-Win racing for nice lug nuts, the alloy ones I would replace every couple of years, but quite nice, either open or closed or long, they have a nice shoulder for a socket to avoid wheel damage, torque to 85 ft/lb. The Miata uses M12X1.5 also.

On the other side of the spectrum are the cheap “tuner” lugs are terrible design with a sharp shoulder that damages wheels and loosens due to this, just terrible stuff. I like lightweight open lugs in rounded tip 2.5” ARP studs, stronger, lighter, better, and they look right to me. The Ti ones are decent but always use plenty of anti-seize, same as aluminum. Open lugs can be steel and with a nice shoulder, nice if you swap wheels often.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

For another perspective... Check out FlyingMiata it Good-Win racing for nice lug nuts, the alloy ones I would replace every couple of years, but quite nice, either open or closed or long, they have a nice shoulder for a socket to avoid wheel damage, torque to 85 ft/lb. The Miata uses M12X1.5 also.

On the other side of the spectrum are the cheap “tuner” lugs are terrible design with a sharp shoulder that damages wheels and loosens due to this, just terrible stuff. I like lightweight open lugs in rounded tip 2.5” ARP studs, stronger, lighter, better, and they look right to me. The Ti ones are decent but always use plenty of anti-seize, same as aluminum. Open lugs can be steel and with a nice shoulder, nice if you swap wheels often.

That and any nut that wont Flake its color off after a Year....Story of my life! Just bought some plain silver forged alloy ones from Goodwin....Blue look nice But goddam do they flake.

 

[AZSP33D]

Just bought some plain silver forged alloy ones from Goodwin.....

Great choice, really like those.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Acer Racing has a set of forged Ti short, open ended ones in our threading for ~$150.00, yup crazy $$$, but a BARGAIN when compared to most of the other Ti available out there (Mutekis are ~$250, or more, and other Nippon tuner companies get exponentially higher prices than that, for theirs), and the OEM length of them assures that they will be the lightest, as well as one of the strongest lug nuts anywhere.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Acer Racing has a set of forged Ti short, open ended ones in our threading for ~$150.00, yup crazy $$$, but a BARGAIN when compared to most of the other Ti available out there (Mutekis are ~$250, or more, and other Nippon tuner companies get exponentially higher prices than that, for theirs), and the OEM length of them assures that they will be the lightest, as well as one of the strongest lug nuts anywhere.

LINK?

 

[Woods247]

I use these. They’re light, cover the threads on the studs and handle an impact wrench: http://949racing.com/forged-alloy-lugs-black-12x15.aspx