Big brake kits BBK’s

[CFRmotorsports]

Actually, increasing the brake bias to the rear will increase rotation/instability when braking but that instability and increased rotation will help get the car turned into a corner whereas a brake setup with more front bias will increase braking stability but it will have more of a tendency to understeer or push on corner entry.

https://www.brakes-shop.com/brakepedia/general/brake-bias-and-performance

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I disagree with that on our platform, I will take another picture with the car on the scales to show how out of wack the weight distribution is on our cars. Prior to the off-season I was roughly 855lbs in the rear and 1600 and change on the front tires. That 70ish/30ish weight distribution paired with to much front brake made nose dive extremely bad and took even more of the weight off the rear tires under hard braking making the car extremely tail happy, borderline having a hard time catching the car when pushing 10/10ths on track. Rear SVT rotor ( nearly a 1in larger) and going from the low dust to high dust rear pad fixed this issue making the whole car plant under hard braking

 

[CFRmotorsports]

shame on me I only took a picture of total weight from last season. Will take new ones after the car is done this off-season of cross weights and front to rear weight distribution.

 

[MRX430]

This why I leave the rear seats in and full spare in the trunk. Crazy to unweight the rear only.

 

[zeddzik]

I disagree with that on our platform, I will take another picture with the car on the scales to show how out of wack the weight distribution is on our cars. Prior to the off-season I was roughly 855lbs in the rear and 1600 and change on the front tires. That 70ish/30ish weight distribution paired with to much front brake made nose dive extremely bad and took even more of the weight off the rear tires under hard braking making the car extremely tail happy, borderline having a hard time catching the car when pushing 10/10ths on track. Rear SVT rotor ( nearly a 1in larger) and going from the low dust to high dust rear pad fixed this issue making the whole car plant under hard braking

Oh good to know, haven't tested my AP racing kit on track yet so I don't have any personal experience with the difference yet.

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[CFRmotorsports]

This why I leave the rear seats in and full spare in the trunk. Crazy to unweight the rear only.

Don’t get me wrong I do think removing them was a good idea for the benefits, less weight helps about everything as long as the cross weights are good. But having a little extra weight on a fwd over the front trans axle helps the car rotate mid corner due to the rear end being light which is the beauty of a solid beam rear end like the old 80’s and 90’s rabbit and gti race cars. The downside of a bbk in the front and stock rears is what it does to the bias like I stated above and the issues I ran into. Now I have a full cage and the car is completely gutted so I’m looking for weight savings we’re ever I can find it at this point.

 

[CFRmotorsports]

Oh good to know, haven't tested my AP racing kit on track yet so I don't have any personal experience with the difference yet.

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Ya if you happen to run into any of the issues I stated about make sure you look into that rear upgrade. It was a night and day difference for me. Completely fixed the issues I was having and front going back to back weeks and that being the only upgrade and adjustment I made, I can solely claim that was what fixed it!

 

[MRX430]

Don’t get me wrong I do think removing them was a good idea for the benefits, less weight helps about everything as long as the cross weights are good. But having a little extra weight on a fwd over the front trans axle helps the car rotate mid corner due to the rear end being light which is the beauty of a solid beam rear end like the old 80’s and 90’s rabbit and gti race cars. The downside of a bbk in the front and stock rears is what it does to the bias like I stated above and the issues I ran into. Now I have a full cage and the car is completely gutted so I’m looking for weight savings we’re ever I can find it at this point.

I’m strictly street although I may dabble in Track Night in Murica events this season

 

[slopoke]

I had the Wilwood BBK and SVT rotors with SVT caliper brackets on my Fiesta. Wilwoods are at a great price point as were the SVT hardware at that time. The brackets are like finding a unicorn these days.

 

[Woods247]

Since I started this thread I will end my comments with this:
Wilwood front & rear BBK with Spec 37 rotors and Polymatrix pads. This is the kit I wasted my money on and it feels great to be rid of the shite stock calipers on both ends. Cheers!

LOL! This is gonna look awesome man. Congrats. Did you go with 2J?

 

[MRX430]

LOL! This is gonna look awesome man. Congrats. Did you go with 2J?

Yes sir. He’s got his game together with this kit since it’s nearly identical to his except for the race pads. I like that it’s light and a complete kit. Looking forward to this tasty mod fer sure 🤙

 

[TemecFist]

Does anyone have any track experience with the Gold Coast 323mm front and 302mm rear BBK?

 

[Sakel]

Are the rear bigger SVT rotors worth it for a street/ occasional canyon driven car? I heard they provide a bit more balance in braking or is that just in extreme (hard braking) conditions?

as others will say, it's much more planted feeling. My brake package is otherwise stock, and I'm happy with the SVT rotors. Also the larger disc looks damn good compared to the stock donuts

 

[CFRmotorsports]

Not trying to jack the post, but I’m currently looking into the Reyland AP kit that they claim fit under “some” 15’s.. that’s a must for me as I have 2 sets of TD pro race 1.2’s and I think the 15’s benifit this platform a lot. My biggest gripe with the vmaxx kit is lack of rotor choices as I feel the slotted rotors were contributing to some of the issues with brake pad material building up and haveing such bad pulsateing. If it does, the vmaxx kit will go up on the marketplace and I’ll run the hair larger J hook rotors and AP calipers that vmaxx seemed to try and replicate.

 

[zeddzik]

Not trying to jack the post, but I’m currently looking into the Reyland AP kit that they claim fit under “some” 15’s.. that’s a must for me as I have 2 sets of TD pro race 1.2’s and I think the 15’s benifit this platform a lot. My biggest gripe with the vmaxx kit is lack of rotor choices as I feel the slotted rotors were contributing to some of the issues with brake pad material building up and haveing such bad pulsateing. If it does, the vmaxx kit will go up on the marketplace and I’ll run the hair larger J hook rotors and AP calipers that vmaxx seemed to try and replicate. View attachment 27943

I'd say go for it! I'm pretty sure they will fit because the TD's usually have the most room for brakes out of any commonly available aftermarket wheel that fits on the Fiesta but I'm sure you can get a mesurement from them to make sure. The kit I have is great and the machining was top notch so you definitely won't be dissapointed!

 

[TDavis]

Yeah, my 17x8 ET:38mm TD's fit on the Stoptech BBK without problem and the Stoptech BBK is one of the BBK's thats a pain to find wheels that fit without spacers.

 

[CFRmotorsports]

I'd say go for it! I'm pretty sure they will fit because the TD's usually have the most room for brakes out of any commonly available aftermarket wheel that fits on the Fiesta but I'm sure you can get a mesurement from them to make sure. The kit I have is great and the machining was top notch so you definitely won't be dissapointed!

Who did you go though? I was just told they don’t ship to the US for insurance reasons? Smh

 

[zeddzik]

Who did you go though? I was just told they don’t ship to the US for insurance reasons? Smh View attachment 27944

https://focusrsparts.co.uk/

They don't sell the specific kit on the site anymore but they still sell Reyland kits so they might still be able to help u out.

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[theblue]

it's always fun reading this threads as a racer. my goal is to find a way to get smaller, lighter brakes on the car. If they're not fading they're too big.

 

[zeddzik]

it's always fun reading this threads as a racer. my goal is to find a way to get smaller, lighter brakes on the car. If they're not fading they're too big.

Honestly depends on the track, at Waterford Hills near me it's a tight small track with short straights and my brakes were smoking by the end of the last session of the day. My first time at Gingerman I cooked my brakes and went through a whole set of pads, destroyed the rotors and burnt the paint off of my front stock calipers. With a lighter car, stickier tires and an lsd or no torque vectoring the brakes are probably fine but with all the extra weight in a street car there is not enough thermal capacity or cooling to deal with the heat created under repeated hard braking or engagement from the torque vectoring system.

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[CFRmotorsports]

it's always fun reading this threads as a racer. my goal is to find a way to get smaller, lighter brakes on the car. If they're not fading they're too big.

but when your getting the fade halfway though a session that’s the issue, spending majority of the 25min session on cool down laps due to the brakes and not the tires is a issue. Also like stated about the gripe with the slotted rotors being the only option without spending big money. As you know the tracks you run will effect that as well.