• Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features

    Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!


Would a cut to the middle cowl help with temps?

Messages
470
Likes
544
Location
Metro Detroit
#21
If you are concerned about Engine Heat the the only real solution is to increase the cooling capacity of the Cooling System. On a temporary fix this can be done by turning the Interior Heating System to FULL HOT with the fans at the highest setting. That can sometimes allow you to limp home a car that has overheated due to sitting in traffic. However the ONLY permanent long term solution is an Engine Radiator with more Capacity, ie. a BIGGER Radiator. In addition a small improvement can be gained by increasing the air flow thru the Radiator by adding some exhaust vents for underhood air but that will only provide a small gain. Another potential gain would be by replacing the bumper bar with a tubular assembly and cutting out all the blocked openings in the lower grill area. BTW, increasing the grill opening count will impact high speed aerodynamics and possibly the stability at speeds over 100 mph.
 


PunkST

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,239
Likes
1,415
Location
Menasha
#22
^ that still wont affect the deadzone of hot air stuck behind the engine, and between it and the firewall Which from what i understand of the thread the op is trying to mitigate. Increasing the efficiency of the cooling system isnt going to reduce temps of hot exhaust parts.
Solutions there are ceramic coating exhaust parts and either a turbo blanket or channeling air down the firewall in some way.
 


PunkST

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,239
Likes
1,415
Location
Menasha
#23
Are you using heat wrap or heat tape on your cross over pipe? Reason I ask is if you're using Heat Wrap like the DEI Lava Rock stuff you're not doing yourself any favors. If anything you're adding to the heat soak.
For real. Get the gold tape, its pricey but it reflects heat instead of retaining.
 


Messages
420
Likes
325
Location
Phoenix, AZ, USA
#24
Not sure how you have it set up but make sure you retain the stock turbo heatshield if you can, or get a new one if it's mangled, it's surprisingly effective and a lot of people remove it. The downpipe heatshield is also often removed, so some additional insulation is needed like a heat blanket or a wrap, and it's possibly not as effective.
 


shouldbeasy

1000 Post Club
Messages
1,469
Likes
824
Location
Calgary, AB, Canada
#25
Honestly you are better off cutting the hood for a proper naca duct. And then making the required shroud underneath to blast air down the back side of the engine. Take advantage of the air thats moving over the car.
Well, best case would be to catch the air from the underside of the car and have it exit the hood.

You don't want to stuff air into the engine bay unless it's going specifically to a cooler - that air has to go somewhere and under the car creates lift.
 


Messages
386
Likes
221
Location
Rochester
#26
any entrances to the engine bay from the back top will create lift. you want to seal this area. when you're moving at speed the heat should go under the car to exit or not allowed into the engine bay at all. your cooling system should do the cooling.
 


shouldbeasy

1000 Post Club
Messages
1,469
Likes
824
Location
Calgary, AB, Canada
#27
any entrances to the engine bay from the back top will create lift. you want to seal this area. when you're moving at speed the heat should go under the car to exit or not allowed into the engine bay at all. your cooling system should do the cooling.
You don't want to stuff air under the car, you want to remove it from under the car.
 


PunkST

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,239
Likes
1,415
Location
Menasha
#28
Thats why you properly duct the air down to where it dumps near the turbo. Having a useless hole with no ducting isnt gonna do shit. And there isnt enough of a pressure zone under the car thanks to the rubber flap under the bumper. It doesnt need to be a huge duct either. Im bett i g you could get the desired effect with a relatively small inlet and hose. You have three choices of higher pressure zone to grab cool air from. Either front fenderwell ( will have to have a good screen for rocks and muck) or the hood area near the cowl.
 


PunkST

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,239
Likes
1,415
Location
Menasha
#29
The exhaust tunnel would be the escape point. Just like it naturally is. These cars have a pretty decently flat bottom apart from the tunnel.
 


PunkST

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,239
Likes
1,415
Location
Menasha
#30
I may try with some drainage hose i habe laying about and some zip ties to the bottom of the frame horn just as a proof of concept of pulling air from the grille area. Ideally id want the path to be as short as possible ( hence the wheel well thought)
 


TyphoonFiST

9000 Post Club
Premium Account
Messages
11,708
Likes
8,213
Location
Rich-fizzield
#31
I may try with some drainage hose i habe laying about and some zip ties to the bottom of the frame horn just as a proof of concept of pulling air from the grille area. Ideally id want the path to be as short as possible ( hence the wheel well thought)
It's called the dead cat hole* seriously check It out...

https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=dead cat hole

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 


Messages
386
Likes
221
Location
Rochester
#33
You don't want to stuff air under the car, you want to remove it from under the car.
if you create a cowl induction area once you're at speed air will come off the windshield and into the engine bay. you're not creating a an exit, you're making an entrance.
 


DoomsdayMelody

Active member
Messages
579
Likes
462
Location
San Jose
#34
^ that still wont affect the deadzone of hot air stuck behind the engine, and between it and the firewall Which from what i understand of the thread the op is trying to mitigate. Increasing the efficiency of the cooling system isnt going to reduce temps of hot exhaust parts.
Solutions there are ceramic coating exhaust parts and either a turbo blanket or channeling air down the firewall in some way.
Isn’t the KP39 water cooled? Meaning that if you can keep temps down in coolant then you should, in theory, absorb more heat from the turbo which would impact the ambient heat by the firewall?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


TyphoonFiST

9000 Post Club
Premium Account
Messages
11,708
Likes
8,213
Location
Rich-fizzield
#35
Pretty much every turbo today is water-cooled to prevent Coking and convenience of not having to deal with a Turbo timer.
 


PunkST

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,239
Likes
1,415
Location
Menasha
#36
Isn’t the KP39 water cooled? Meaning that if you can keep temps down in coolant then you should, in theory, absorb more heat from the turbo which would impact the ambient heat by the firewall?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
it only cools the center cartridge. You still have the manifold, exhaust housing, and downpipe/cat pipe blasting out heat. And if youve pulled off any of the heat shielding, or have been tracking the car, its really hot. Some folks have melted the factory plastic crossover pipe and thats a good foot above the turbo on the back side of the engine.
 




Top