Blend Door Actuator Issue Thread

[TDavis]

Fixed my blend door earlier this week. Thumb ratchet made it SO much easier. Highly recommend having one prior to doing the mode door.

 

[Eightphoenix]

Hey guys. I actually had my Blend Door replaced when the car was under warranty (now at almost 40k). I just encountered this problem today where a short clicking sound happens (sounds like it's coming from behind the glove box) AFTER I turn off the heat. It even was going on after I had the car turned off while washing it. Any ideas? Thanks!

 

[deegs28]

Hey so it could be the blend door behind the glove box, which is easy to replace. I don’t know if there are any videos but basically the same process as replacing the blend door behind steering wheel. This guy is easier to get to but the “trickiest” part (it’s not hard) is aligning the gears of the blend door to get it to stir properly. But if it’s still under warranty I’d take it to the dealer.... might take a lot less time if you do it ourself though.

 

[Mikey456]

I don’t know if this has been answered already.., but do the replacement door actuator parts last longer then the defective ones (the one that makes noises) Or are they the same part that will eventually fail (or make noises) after a certain amount of miles, just like the original part.


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[DaleFredriks]

I don’t know if this has been answered already.., but do the replacement door actuator parts last longer then the defective ones (the one that makes noises) Or are they the same part that will eventually fail (or make noises) after a certain amount of miles, just like the original part.


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I just got mine replaced under warranty about 3 weeks ago, and interestingly, the part number they replaced it with is BE8Z19E616B, not 616A as mentioned above. I'm hoping it's an upgraded piece compared to the old OEM part, so I'll be watching it with interest over the life of the car and see if its an issue again. I'm also doing things a little bit different based on tips I saw here, specifically using the AC only on low or high and keeping the airflow coming out head and feet, not just head

 

[jeff]

Hey folks. I just processed this thread and condensed it all here into one post to help avoid confusion. I'd suggest to a moderator that this information be put in post #1 along with today's date so people in the future won't have to spend 2 hours reading through this confusing thread. I am only reporting information I carefully collected and cross-referenced on this thread so if it's wrong I am not responsible. Here goes:

* There are a number of decent DIY videos on YouTube, it can be done without removing the seat/airbag, with the right tools it's not bad at all.

DRIVER SIDE
"Defrost mode door actuator"
Has 5 prongs
Motorcraft YH-1896 is the part you want, it is the updated one, made in China
Dorman 604-400 is the Dorman version
Motorcraft YH-1935 is the old part number, made in France...the YH-1896 above is the replacement part for it, updated (in theory)
Ford AV1Z-19E616K is Ford's number for the YH-1896, they are the same thing
Ford AV1Z-19E616A is Ford's number for the YH-1935, this is the old part number before update
Click this link for more info
BE8Z19E616B is another part number for this one I found floating around, which only lends to further confusion...

PASSENGER SIDE
"Heater recirculation door actuator"
Has 2 prongs
Motorcraft YH-1895 is the part you want
Dorman 604-251 is the Dorman version
Ford BE8Z-19E616A is Ford's number for the YH-1895, they are the same thing
Click this link for more info

* The Dorman versions are reported to be more sturdy, but if you look at Amazon reviews they break often as well
* Dorman gives you one year warranty, Motorcraft gives you two year warranty, from my reading
* Cost for various versions is similar if you shop around; Motorcraft tends to be a bit more but not much
* Knockoff unbranded parts can be had very cheap ($12) but I'd steer clear of those
* Part descriptions show that all of these may cause cancer or reproductive harm

My driver's side broke a few years ago at 6k miles, the passenger side broke today at 35k miles, I will be replacing soon once I get the part.

 

[Mikey456]

I just got mine replaced under warranty about 3 weeks ago, and interestingly, the part number they replaced it with is BE8Z19E616B, not 616A as mentioned above. I'm hoping it's an upgraded piece compared to the old OEM part, so I'll be watching it with interest over the life of the car and see if its an issue again. I'm also doing things a little bit different based on tips I saw here, specifically using the AC only on low or high and keeping the airflow coming out head and feet, not just head

That’s good to know. A couple of weeks ago it was pretty consistent clicking on start up. Now it’s less often. I will be bringing it for warranty work before it ends.


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[DFWFiST]

I bought my 2016 FiST a week ago. I have 36K and clicking from the center console. While I’m capable of replacing the part myself, I shouldn’t have to. My issue with this is that this is an item that should only fail on a vehicle that is at least 10 years old. I have tweeted my complaint to Ford and Ford Service. I suggest anyone else facing the issue do the same. The number of these I’ve seen here and number of how to videos on YouTube would (to me) highly suggest that this should be a recall/TSB item for sure.

 

[ShaunPanday]

Any way to disable it...

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Any way to disable it...

Unplug it...but then the HVAC system won't function at 100%.

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[ShaunPanday]

Unplug it...but then the HVAC system won't function at 100%.

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Shot man. Im guessing the fan etc wont work. Its the plug that powers the unit right

 

[TyphoonFiST]

The Fan will still work ....Just the either blend or Mode doors wont open to allow air to certain areas inside the car depending on which actuator is Poo Poo.

 

[ShaunPanday]

Thanks man. I think im not on the same page. Where is the plug that you disconnect. Im thinking disconnecting the power supply via the fuse. If there is another way pls guide me.

 

[jmrtsus]

I bought my 2016 FiST a week ago. I have 36K and clicking from the center console. While I’m capable of replacing the part myself, I shouldn’t have to. My issue with this is that this is an item that should only fail on a vehicle that is at least 10 years old. I have tweeted my complaint to Ford and Ford Service. I suggest anyone else facing the issue do the same. The number of these I’ve seen here and number of how to videos on YouTube would (to me) highly suggest that this should be a recall/TSB item for sure.

FYI, recall is for safety issues. Just a poor design with gear made of too soft material and wears rapidly. With a version "B" out I hope Ford rectified the issue. As for a TSB it is not needed. Any tech can hear the problem. Ford can extend the warranty covering it but that would require many complaints to Ford or the BBB. I'm sure like mine most are replaced under warranty. If you are slightly out of warranty talk to Ford Customer Care (nicely!) and they can make exceptions but no guarantees. If you are a long time Ford customer on record with Ford you are more likely to get exceptions made. Each dealer has a Customer Satisfaction fund. I received $840 in two separate issues on my 2016 FiST from the fund. But we have 4 Fords bought new so I expect better treatment. I hear GM has their version also.

 

[Raziel510]

'18 and '19 FiST's should be added to the poll. I have a 2019 FiST with 15k miles and my center actuator started clicking recently.

 

[ROCKYFiestta]

im about to do the passenger side behind the glove box any tips like setting the heater on high setting or do the knobs need to be in a certain position before shutting the car off and doing the swap, just want to be sure I don't fudge anything and make it worse. thx for any info.

 

[jeff]

im about to do the passenger side behind the glove box any tips like setting the heater on high setting or do the knobs need to be in a certain position before shutting the car off and doing the swap, just want to be sure I don't fudge anything and make it worse. thx for any info.

None of that was necessary for me, just left it off, no issues, in and out, here’s a helpful video I made recently:

View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eAu9J2zFuz0

 

[ROCKYFiestta]

thanks jeff you rock man much appreciated for the video.

 

[ROCKYFiestta]

finally got the passenger side fixed today video was good the only thing extra I had to do was use my pick tool to rotate the teeth that the little gears go into so that it would line up. it took me an hour only because I struggled to simply fit my hands in there a thumb ratchet would have made it easier for sure.

 

[bangeræng]

Hey folks. I just processed this thread and condensed it all here into one post to help avoid confusion. I'd suggest to a moderator that this information be put in post #1 along with today's date so people in the future won't have to spend 2 hours reading through this confusing thread. I am only reporting information I carefully collected and cross-referenced on this thread so if it's wrong I am not responsible. Here goes:

* There are a number of decent DIY videos on YouTube, it can be done without removing the seat/airbag, with the right tools it's not bad at all.

DRIVER SIDE
"Defrost mode door actuator"
Has 5 prongs
Motorcraft YH-1896 is the part you want, it is the updated one, made in China
Dorman 604-400 is the Dorman version
Motorcraft YH-1935 is the old part number, made in France...the YH-1896 above is the replacement part for it, updated (in theory)
Ford AV1Z-19E616K is Ford's number for the YH-1896, they are the same thing
Ford AV1Z-19E616A is Ford's number for the YH-1935, this is the old part number before update
Click this link for more info
BE8Z19E616B is another part number for this one I found floating around, which only lends to further confusion...

PASSENGER SIDE
"Heater recirculation door actuator"
Has 2 prongs
Motorcraft YH-1895 is the part you want
Dorman 604-251 is the Dorman version
Ford BE8Z-19E616A is Ford's number for the YH-1895, they are the same thing
Click this link for more info

* The Dorman versions are reported to be more sturdy, but if you look at Amazon reviews they break often as well
* Dorman gives you one year warranty, Motorcraft gives you two year warranty, from my reading
* Cost for various versions is similar if you shop around; Motorcraft tends to be a bit more but not much
* Knockoff unbranded parts can be had very cheap ($12) but I'd steer clear of those
* Part descriptions show that all of these may cause cancer or reproductive harm

My driver's side broke a few years ago at 6k miles, the passenger side broke today at 35k miles, I will be replacing soon once I get the part.

Dude. Thanks for consolidating this info. I had to a bunch of cross referencing and re-reading to find out what was accurate. This should be bumped to the top lol