rear camber on fiesta st

Dpro

6000 Post Club
Member ID
#7958
Messages
6,361
Likes
5,983
#21
Did you test with the rear dust shields?
I'm interested either way, but I somehow still have the dust shields up front with the V-Maxx brake kit and I'd like to keep them in the rear, too.

Sent from my H8314 using Tapatalk
I have not had time yet to put a set on my car. I am trying to get to it this coming week . Though I also have a local guy in Chino who is getting a set so it will be race to see who gets theirs on first . lol
 


kivnul

1000 Post Club
Member ID
#3947
Messages
1,203
Likes
726
#22
I am up for a set once you list them.
 


Dpro

6000 Post Club
Member ID
#7958
Messages
6,361
Likes
5,983
#23
Well I will take pics and list tonight then.
 


kivnul

1000 Post Club
Member ID
#3947
Messages
1,203
Likes
726
#24
Well I will take pics and list tonight then.
Don't rush on my account: I won't be installing until winter is over. Like my BBK, I figure this is something I will have to put on / take off seasonally.
 


Woods247

2000 Post Club
Member ID
#5473
Messages
2,609
Likes
4,743
#26
oh no I am ready to sell now . I made 25 sets.
As soon as we're certain this won't effect the ABS sensors (or require modification to them), I'm in. Thanks for taking this on!
 


green_henry

1000 Post Club
Member ID
#7801
Messages
1,043
Likes
779
#27
As soon as we're certain this won't effect the ABS sensors (or require modification to them), I'm in. Thanks for taking this on!
I think the ABS sensor "issue" is a red herring. You only need to remove the ABS bolt to release the dust shield, and then you reattach it -- the sensor itself stays right where it started, and there's not enough deflection to make a difference.
 


Last edited:

Woods247

2000 Post Club
Member ID
#5473
Messages
2,609
Likes
4,743
#28
I think the ABS sensor "issue" is a red herring. You only need to remove the ABS bolt to release the dust shield, and then you reattach it -- the sensor itself stays right where it started, and there's not enough deflection too make a difference.
Let us know if your theory is correct after you’ve pushed them on track.
 


kivnul

1000 Post Club
Member ID
#3947
Messages
1,203
Likes
726
#29
It is amazing how much things move and flex, even things that you would think shouldn't.
 


green_henry

1000 Post Club
Member ID
#7801
Messages
1,043
Likes
779
#30
Let us know if your theory is correct after you’ve pushed them on track.
Fair point. I won't get back on the track until March, but even if there were an issue, does ABS in the rear even make a difference? I'm not sure I'd notice. Front, yes. Rear, not so sure
 


Woods247

2000 Post Club
Member ID
#5473
Messages
2,609
Likes
4,743
#31
Fair point. I won't get back on the track until March, but even if there were an issue, does ABS in the rear even make a difference? I'm not sure I'd notice. Front, yes. Rear, not so sure
I had problems with ABS after installing rear camber shims. I posted it somewhere here. You can track without it but I like knowing it’s there. Since then, I installed washers on the bottom two hub bolts and I’ve been running it like that all season with no problems. They’re creating a little too much negative camber though, which is why I’m interested in these shims. I’m redoing my alignment soon and will post the rear measurement. We didn’t put it on the rack after the ghetto washer mod so I have no clue where it sits lol. I just went straight to the track to try it out.

Edit: The adjustable shims I used are much thicker than these plates. They required a custom bracket for the ABS sensor. DPro’s shims shouldn’t need that. My guess is they’ll work just fine. I’m just not up for spending $100 to try again haha.
 


Dpro

6000 Post Club
Member ID
#7958
Messages
6,361
Likes
5,983
#32
It is amazing how much things move and flex, even things that you would think shouldn't.
Got to honestly say these things are literally sandwiched between your hub carrier and your beam with 4 bolts torqued down. If that stuff was going to move it would move stock. plus the holes are not slotted so how can it move?
I also think he is right about just reseating the abs sensor bolt. plus if there was going to be deflection aka movement in the sensor again it would happen stock. His theory is pretty solid IMO. Again the abs sensor bolt is not sitting in a slotted hole. So movement would not be an issue. Also you are spacing the sensor bolt not the sensor.

I will be putting a set on my car shortly not sure how soon it will be till I get to the track though.
I had problems with ABS after installing rear camber shims. I posted it somewhere here. You can track without it but I like knowing it’s there. Since then, I installed washers on the bottom two hub bolts and I’ve been running it like that all season with no problems. They’re creating a little too much negative camber though, which is why I’m interested in these shims. I’m redoing my alignment soon and will post the rear measurement. We didn’t put it on the rack after the ghetto washer mod so I have no clue where it sits lol. I just went straight to the track to try it out.
Interesting so these shims were on the top only and not across the complete carrier surface? How much negative camber were the shims supposed to give? I do think that the shims only on top was what caused your issues.
 


Woods247

2000 Post Club
Member ID
#5473
Messages
2,609
Likes
4,743
#33
Got to honestly say these things are literally sandwiched between your hub carrier and your beam with 4 bolts torqued down. If that stuff was going to move it would move stock. plus the holes are not slotted so how can it move?
I also think he is right about just reseating the abs sensor bolt. plus if there was going to be deflection aka movement in the sensor again it would happen stock. His theory is pretty solid IMO. Again the abs sensor bolt is not sitting in a slotted hole. So movement would not be an issue. Also you are spacing the sensor bolt not the sensor.

I will be putting a set on my car shortly not sure how soon it will be till I get to the track though.


Interesting so these shims were on the top only and not across the complete carrier surface? How much negative camber were the shims supposed to give? I do think that the shims only on top was what caused your issues.
They spaced the entire hub out. I’ll see if I can find a photo. You can clock them to increase/decrease camber. Cool idea but too thick for our ABS setup.

Edit: These are the ones that didn’t work.
 


Dpro

6000 Post Club
Member ID
#7958
Messages
6,361
Likes
5,983
#34
They spaced the entire hub out. I’ll see if I can find a photo. You can clock them to increase/decrease camber. Cool idea but too thick for our ABS setup.

Edit: These are the ones that didn’t work.
interesting can almost see why they did not work.lol
 


Similar threads



Top