What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

[Toofless ST]

After waiting 3 months, my Clubsport suspension finally came in. Hardly lowered the car at all which is what I was looking for, and soaks up road imperfections much better.
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I’m looking to go that same route. Any advice or issues with the install?


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[boyracer]

hmm car is tuxedo black> blaze orange it is, thanks T

 

[Bretley]

I’m looking to go that same route. Any advice or issues with the install?


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Install was very straightforward. No issues at all, just give it a week or 2 to settle before you get an alignment. It's a big improvement over oem or oem with koni oranges.

 

[DieselMech]

It was snowing here in Hampton roads so memes boys

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[DieselMech]

Damond sealed OCC put on. Ending the mod list until it’s paid off here soon.


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[1eecom]

AUXITO 921 912 LED Bulb Canbus Error Free 2400 Lumens with 2020 SMD for Backup Reverse Light 6500K Xenon White. Try these out. I I always go after the highest lumens and the design output of the bulb.

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Ok, I bit and bought these Auxito as well as previously buying the JDM ASTAR bulbs. No loss since my F150 uses the same bulbs. Going on the assumption that the Auxito bulbs would throw light more back than the JDMs, Tonight I replaced the passenger bulb with the Auxito. (It made sense to me that the passenger side would want more light distance than drivers side, but maybe someone can convince me otherwise?)

This is me sitting in hatch with both bulbs on.

This is covering the Auxito passenger bulb. JDM only.

And finally this is covering the JDM driver side. Auxito only

It is clear that the Auxito throws more light back than the JDM when against the garage door. But, down a driveway I really had a hard time telling if it was going further back than sideways. I did the same test covering a side at a time. Short story is they are not driving lights so don’t expect a huge distance of light with either of them. I’m leaving the mismatch in for now and installed the same setup in the F150.

 

[GreenthumbTim]

Went from the Turbosmart BOV that goes in the sound symposer place to the Boomba delete kit/reinstalled the stock BPV setup with GFB DV+ internals instead of the CPE block off plate on the housing. On the Stage 0 tune it seems to hold boost pressure way better up top and is way more stealth. Call me crazy but the loud BOV noise was only fun for about 10000 miles and it always worried me knowing it was geared towards a bigger turbo setup than the KP39. Also put a UPR check valve on my Radium catch can pcv side between the intake manifold and catch can/reverted back to the stock intake tube instead of the silicon Mountune one to get rid of the P04DB cel(but kept the Mountune intake box). Not sure if the check valve or the stock intake tube caused it but it has not come back since these changes, I drove around on the stage 0 tune for about 200 miles until my OARs were at -.8 and switched back to the Mountune custom tune with no issues returns of CELS. The custom tune also found the -1.0 Oar much faster kinda funny. Car feels faster and sounds better with some of the OEM bits back on and ill save the other parts for if and when I try to get a big turbo. Fun weekend tinkering with the car

 

[purityracer316]

slow process but fixing curb rashes and going gloss black.

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[Hypergram]

Installed my Swift Spec-R springs with help from a friend from the Central Florida RSST Facebook page. Better pic coming soon.

 

[M-Sport fan]

slow process but fixing curb rashes and going gloss black.

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Nice , but I refuse to do all of that work to factory wheels which I don't even like aesthetically.

In fact, I am selling mine as soon as the (interest free from Ford) loan is paid off, and getting some strong Speedline Turini 16x7s from England, with a good 205/50-16 UHP all season (probably the General G-Max AS-05s, or the like) to replace them for mostly year-round 'intermediate' use.

That is unless I just totally replace the hubs with some 5x120 M-Sport deals, sell ALL of my wheels, and then have a WORLD of choice in that PCD (even as compared to the ubiquitous/popular 4x100 conversion so many do).

 

[purityracer316]

Nice , but I refuse to do all of that work to factory wheels which I don't even like aesthetically.

In fact, I am selling mine as soon as the (interest free from Ford) loan is paid off, and getting some strong Speedline Turini 16x7s from England, with a good 205/50-16 UHP all season (probably the General G-Max AS-05s, or the like) to replace them for mostly year-round 'intermediate' use.

That is unless I just totally replace the hubs with some 5x120 M-Sport deals, sell ALL of my wheels, and then have a WORLD of choice in that PCD (even as compared to the ubiquitous/popular 4x100 conversion so many do).

Yeah I wanted ST black wheels but haven't found a good deal on a set or old Focus SVT rims.

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[cxwrench]

Installed this, which I ordered Tuesday on Amazon Prime and received Wednesday. Super easy install as well.

Then put this on...

 

[lowda9]

i didnt do anything but i bought an intercooler and catted downpipe for my st. lets call it my early christmas present to myself.

 

[flbchbm]

I towed my 5x6 utility trailer for the first time w/the FiST. ~2 hours up the road and back with a small load of Troy-Bilt Flex attachments. Even with Stage 1, speed limit/lead foot acceleration and PA foothills, 27 MPG. (still looking for the Flex Log Splitter and Chipper/Shredder) I could go for another mower attachment too.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Installed this, which I ordered Tuesday on Amazon Prime and received Wednesday. Super easy install as well.

Then put this on...

Nice gravel bike, and love that Nitrous Blue color!

 

[1eecom]

Installed my Whoosh FMIC, cougarx bulbs, and a used AWR 70a RMM. Changed oil at 1000 miles as well. Went stock fluid for this one. It was a PITA to remove the oil filter. Had to run out and buy a fourth style wrench and bent it a little just getting the dang thing loose.
For those looking for tools, Home Depot has a pretty good deal on a few of the Husky Torque wrenches. $50 a piece for the two I bought to be able to do the RMM and upcoming torsion bar and exhaust. Seemed to work as advertised

 

[DieselMech]

Forgot pictures but the hose sleeves are on order just couldn’t wait lol, tight fit but really straight forward install

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[METZGER]

Nice , but I refuse to do all of that work to factory wheels which I don't even like aesthetically.

In fact, I am selling mine as soon as the (interest free from Ford) loan is paid off, and getting some strong Speedline Turini 16x7s from England, with a good 205/50-16 UHP all season (probably the General G-Max AS-05s, or the like) to replace them for mostly year-round 'intermediate' use.

That is unless I just totally replace the hubs with some 5x120 M-Sport deals, sell ALL of my wheels, and then have a WORLD of choice in that PCD (even as compared to the ubiquitous/popular 4x100 conversion so many do).

Awesome! I actually like the stock rims, they are different to any other rim and suit the car really well IMO. [emoji106][emoji108]

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[ghodge]

Installed my Whoosh FMIC, cougarx bulbs, and a used AWR 70a RMM. Changed oil at 1000 miles as well. Went stock fluid for this one. It was a PITA to remove the oil filter. Had to run out and buy a fourth style wrench and bent it a little just getting the dang thing loose.
For those looking for tools, Home Depot has a pretty good deal on a few of the Husky Torque wrenches. $50 a piece for the two I bought to be able to do the RMM and upcoming torsion bar and exhaust. Seemed to work as advertised View attachment 25286 View attachment 25287 View attachment 25288

Can you post a picture of the front of your car with the bumper cover on? I'm curious to see what the black intercooler looks like on a Magnetic car.

 

[1eecom]

Can you post a picture of the front of your car with the bumper cover on? I'm curious to see what the black intercooler looks like on a Magnetic car.

I don’t have a pic yet, but this is the pic that I used to decide on black with red stencil
https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/whoosh-fmic-early-bf-sale.22315/#post-380982