What should I do about lights?

[Hypergram]

I was looking at those, was considering "real carbon fiber" ones on eBay/AliExpress for like $50-60, they would be only for appearance using projectors. But they can actually be quite functional for those using bright glaring LED's in their reflectors to cut down on the glare, but now that there are proper LED's available with minimal glare, there is less need for their functionality too...

Sounds good. When I save some money I'll get the Depos and photoshop the brows on to see if I like them.

You can always cancel within the first 15 minutes easily if you want to save like $2.. I know I'm a cheap-skate and would, LOL.

I can't even be bothered lol.

 

[XR650R]

Based on your parameters - I would suggest 100W H1 high beams (dirt cheap!), and upgraded H11 lows. I think I have Sylvania Silverstar. They are not going any further down the road, but flood the same zone with more light. You can spend a lot more, or put in LED replacements - but I'd research the negative points posted on this site concerning those solutions.

Got a link for those?

 

[Blindeye_03]

Well the right side depo projector is on back order and they have no idea when it'll be in stock again. I just canceled my order on cars245. Might keep an eye out on the fs forum but for now I'm using tech max less.

 

[danbfree]

Well the right side depo projector is on back order and they have no idea when it'll be in stock again. I just canceled my order on cars245. Might keep an eye out on the fs forum but for now I'm using tech max less.

Wow, that's really lame! But at least the TechMax is a significant improvement alone...

 

[danbfree]

Got a link for those?

For H1 high beams, THESE along with THESE bulb holders would get you serious bright white output with low heat/draw for under $40 total. I have nothing against halogen per se, but to make them white they need a blue coating which reduces output and has you needing hot 100w bulbs that aren't recommended. If you only use your high beams rarely and not for long, they can be like with the experience shared here and work fine, I'm not going to discount their experience but I personally don't want that much heat and draw happening, so just offering an option.

 

[Blindeye_03]

Wow, that's really lame! But at least the TechMax is a significant improvement alone...

Yeah Constantine didnt know when hed get it and didnt seem too interested in waiting for it for my order. Im like why do I just want one light? lol. I dont want to deal with TYCs again lol.

I have been on staycation for a few days so tonight ill finally get to use the techmax leds on my commute home. We have a lot of unlit backroads here. Im bummed... I miss the projector cutoff.


oh it looks like the DEPO lights are on ebay but are $100 more :-/.

 

[danbfree]

Yeah Constantine didnt know when hed get it and didnt seem too interested in waiting for it for my order. Im like why do I just want one light? lol. I dont want to deal with TYCs again lol.

I have been on staycation for a few days so tonight ill finally get to use the techmax leds on my commute home. We have a lot of unlit backroads here. Im bummed... I miss the projector cutoff.


oh it looks like the DEPO lights are on ebay but are $100 more :-/.

Ouch, Constantine provides good service, at least you know know instead spending your money and waiting forever.... Well, for $100 more, I still say the Depo's are worth it, who knows if TYC addressed their aiming adjustment issues, but I've heard their aim itself was pretty good, despite not having much range adjustment. Damn, sucks to have to decide, if the TYC's are in stock in might be worth trying, if they have issues Constantine can help or at least issue partial refunds too, it's not like you are going to ship them back to Latvia though, crap...

 

[NorthLightingConcepts]

It’s seriously easier to retrofit them with some projectors. You can easily do it in an afternoon start to finish. I did mine in about 7 hours from opening them up, installing, adjusting and aiming and resealing. I even painted them-let them dry for 24 hours though. But if you didn’t paint, would probably be less time.
I’d be happy to give some pointers if interested. I could even entertain the thought of completing the service for a fee. Depending on interest. It’s labor intensive though, but not hard and output is significantly increased. Top is high beam and bottom is low beam.

Adding higher wattage bulbs is not going to fix the problem. It’s just a band aid

 

[MagnetiseST]

It’s seriously easier to retrofit them with some projectors. You can easily do it in an afternoon start to finish. I did mine in about 7 hours from opening them up, installing, adjusting and aiming and resealing. I even painted them-let them dry for 24 hours though. But if you didn’t paint, would probably be less time.
I’d be happy to give some pointers if interested. I could even entertain the thought of completing the service for a fee. Depending on interest. It’s labor intensive though, but not hard and output is significantly increased. Top is high beam and bottom is low beam.

Adding higher wattage bulbs is not going to fix the problem. It’s just a band aid
View attachment 22511 View attachment 22512

How did you go about opening yours? I cut one of mine open and I'm debating on doing that to the other side or trying to pry it open with heat.

 

[Blindeye_03]

It’s seriously easier to retrofit them with some projectors. You can easily do it in an afternoon start to finish. I did mine in about 7 hours from opening them up, installing, adjusting and aiming and resealing. I even painted them-let them dry for 24 hours though. But if you didn’t paint, would probably be less time.
I’d be happy to give some pointers if interested. I could even entertain the thought of completing the service for a fee. Depending on interest. It’s labor intensive though, but not hard and output is significantly increased. Top is high beam and bottom is low beam.

Adding higher wattage bulbs is not going to fix the problem. It’s just a band aid
View attachment 22511 View attachment 22512

I'd be down for that. I would miss the drl led at the bottom. I liked seeing someone that was having theirs retrofitted with a switchback? I guess that's what that's called lol. If I ever get some oem headlights I may hit you up.

 

[NorthLightingConcepts]

How did you go about opening yours? I cut one of mine open and I'm debating on doing that to the other side or trying to pry it open with heat.

It’s super easy to open with heat. The rights tools help immensely. The worst part of the process is cleaning out the permaseal. Once that’s done it’s all gravy.

 

[danbfree]

It’s seriously easier to retrofit them with some projectors. You can easily do it in an afternoon start to finish. I did mine in about 7 hours from opening them up, installing, adjusting and aiming and resealing. I even painted them-let them dry for 24 hours though. But if you didn’t paint, would probably be less time.
I’d be happy to give some pointers if interested. I could even entertain the thought of completing the service for a fee. Depending on interest. It’s labor intensive though, but not hard and output is significantly increased. Top is high beam and bottom is low beam.

Adding higher wattage bulbs is not going to fix the problem. It’s just a band aid
/QUOTE]
Yes, retrofitting a projector for low beam provides awesome low beam output but you still don't have the LED brow marker either. Also, you *can* get inexpensive projectors now vs. name brand that are actually very solid, but good brand projectors and accompanying bulbs, especially good HID sets, can start adding up fast, as in just upgrading the stock headlights to projectors and it's bulbs can easily be $300+ and you still have no LED marker and have the 7 hours labor to do too. Low-end projectors and solid LED's for them can be done for maybe $100, but if you are going through all the labor to cut open an OEM headlight, not many people want to spend that little but it can be done and the output isn't THAT bad compared to say, Morimoto projectors. It also can make a great project for a hardcore lighting nerd, but even I'm not that hardcore, LOL. I mean for $415 total, including all new bulbs, I feel I got awesome value for what I got with the LED brow marker and everything, but there are indeed some cool options out there, it's always good to let people asking about options know about these for sure!

 

[danbfree]

It’s super easy to open with heat. The rights tools help immensely. The worst part of the process is cleaning out the permaseal. Once that’s done it’s all gravy.

Permaseal can be opened with heat? Wow, didn't know!

 

[MagnetiseST]

It’s super easy to open with heat. The rights tools help immensely. The worst part of the process is cleaning out the permaseal. Once that’s done it’s all gravy.

Heat gun or oven bake? I was gonna try small flathead screwdrivers with a heat gun, but I mean the dremel made pretty quick work of the other lens, you'll never see the seam, I just dont know if it will seal.

 

[Hypergram]

Feel free to update this thread when the Depos come back on sale.

 

[NorthLightingConcepts]

Heat gun or oven bake? I was gonna try small flathead screwdrivers with a heat gun, but I mean the dremel made pretty quick work of the other lens, you'll never see the seam, I just dont know if it will seal.

Oven bake is what I did. I’ve done 5 retrofits so far in the oven and each time has turned out well. I have not done a dreamel and hot knife.

To seal it you need to melt the plastic back together. A hot knife comes in handle with a spreader attachment like a screwdriver almost. Plastic welding is what you are doing.

 

[NorthLightingConcepts]

Permaseal can be opened with heat? Wow, didn't know!

Yep. It’s just harder to work with is all. I can post a detailed how too next week when I get some free time.

 

[MagnetiseST]

Oven bake is what I did. I’ve done 5 retrofits so far in the oven and each time has turned out well. I have not done a dreamel and hot knife.

To seal it you need to melt the plastic back together. A hot knife comes in handle with a spreader attachment like a screwdriver almost. Plastic welding is what you are doing.

So if i plastic welded it, it would likely be fine? I have access to one of those interestingly enough. I'll try baking the other one, any suggestions for that?

 

[NorthLightingConcepts]

So if i plastic welded it, it would likely be fine? I have access to one of those interestingly enough. I'll try baking the other one, any suggestions for that?

Check out lightwerkz for some how to videos. I have used them for most parts and instructables.
A lot depends on your oven and if it even fits.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

For H1 high beams, THESE along with THESE bulb holders would get you serious bright white output with low heat/draw for under $40 total. I have nothing against halogen per se, but to make them white they need a blue coating which reduces output and has you needing hot 100w bulbs that aren't recommended. If you only use your high beams rarely and not for long, they can be like with the experience shared here and work fine, I'm not going to discount their experience but I personally don't want that much heat and draw happening, so just offering an option.

I don't know about others, but the slight yellow tint of halogens helps me with contrast at night. Too white and I feel like contrast suffers. ~4300k was my typical HID preference IIRC (on my motorcycles).

The best thing I ever did for driving at night was getting my glasses with a slight amber tint, it really makes things "pop" at night.