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Dizzy Tuning Intake Tests

danbfree

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#61
Like seriuosly... lol yes. I live in Cali you are in Oregon there is a reason lots of us are running ST200 Airboxs etc. Smog techs are not idiots. They have to take refresh courses all the time to keep up,with model year changes.
Its is against the CARB rules to swap in parts from earlier years in your emissions systems.
The sharp techs indeed will know. Its really called how much are you willing to roll the dice and get the tech that might not give a shit or be up on stuff. If you have to go to a referee then ya no dice rolling.They will call you on visual shit your head will spin.
I had a 240sx exhaust ticket had to go to the ref. One would think he would just tailpipe decibel meter test it. Nope he went straight to my hood popped it and started inspecting my engine bay to make sure everything was right.

I know peole who have done legal engine swaps with one fuel line out of place and the referee has called it on that.
Smog techs its a gamble and who you know. Refs nine out of ten are gonna hammer you. Koozy went straight back to all stock underhood that was visible when he got reff’d. Evap lines are visible refs look at everything for your year.
Not worth gambling in my book some do I don’t . Used to more when I was younger , been there done that been to the ref as well. No fun.

Sum it up...
Fact is the cost of full 15 evap lines and a 14-15 Whoosh intake tube even with discounts still comes out to the price of the Mountune Hose for 16+ plus .

So why make things hard with fiddling with evap lines. Buy the Mountune put it in and done. Get ref’d swap it out for your stock hose in 5 minutes to play it safe.
I was gonna say, it still has an adapter for '16+, sounds like you need to be able to swap back and forth, period, when it comes to smog check time anyway... And, you can get induction hoses for as cheap as $60, adapter $40 and still be at $40+ less than the Mountune even with the WINNING promo code... so it may be whatever is cheapest if they are both easy to switch back to stock for smog check time. What's even stranger, I just don't get how evaps lines, if simply hooked up properly, would effect smog, but I guess they have to do a visual as you could have reset the computer right before driving in knowing it takes a while to set off a CEL or even a stored code.
1557265785412.png
 


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Dpro

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#62
I was gonna say, it still has an adapter for '16+, sounds like you need to be able to swap back and forth, period, when it comes to smog check time anyway... And, you can get induction hoses for as cheap as $60, adapter $40 and still be at $40+ less than the Mountune even with the WINNING promo code... so it may be whatever is cheapest if they are both easy to switch back to stock for smog check time. What's even stranger, I just don't get how evaps lines, if simply hooked up properly, would effect smog, but I guess they have to do a visual as you could have reset the computer right before driving in knowing it takes a while to set off a CEL or even a stored code.
View attachment 20080
Have you priced trying to put together the kind of adapter Mountune uses evn one that looks more generic? They are expensive an fittings. I can gurantee you will spend more than $40 to get it right and not throw codes.
You have to watch being cheap sometimes it bites you in the ass in the long run.
While I am all for saving money and what not sometimes Diying this kind of thing does not save you a ton and wastes more of your time.

Clit Beastwood learned that trying to build a non drone exhaust in the end even though he did all the right research it wound up costing him as much as my Thermal RD cost. He spent all that time and effort and I just went out and bought a researched and engineered piece that worked. Put it on and done.
I would hazard to say you have gone through a bit of that with all your headlight stuff. Its great if you are business to build and design a better product to sell. Then you see the fruits of your time and effort in sales but when you waste time doing for no profit? Well screw that my time is worth some kind of money. If I can spend a little more and save signifcant time its worth it.
 


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danbfree

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#63
Have you priced trying to piut together the kind of adapter Mountune uses evn one that looks more generic? They are expensive an fittings. I can gurantee you will spend more than $40 to get it right and not throw codes.
You have to watch being cheap sometimes it bites you in the ass in the long run.
While I am all for saving money and what not sometimes Diying this kind of thing does not save you a ton and wastes more of your time.

Clit Beastwood learned that trying to build a non drone exhaust in the end even though he did all the rigt research it wound up costing him as much as my Thermal RD cost. He spent all that time and effort and I jusf went out and bought a researched and engineered piece that worked. Put it on and done.
I would hazard to say you have gone through a bit of that with all your headlight stuff. Its great if you are business to build and design a better product to sell. Then you see the fruits of your time and effort in sales but when you waste time doing for no profit? Well screw that my time is worth some kind of money. If I can spend a little more and save signifcant time its worth it.
Good point, and I'm not against profits either, I'm not a commie, LOL, I just know most of this stuff is made in cheap labor countries anyway, whether it costs $150 or $60, you know? But yeah, at $143 with discount, that Mountune setup looks good and will likely have less issues with codes piecing together Whoosh's fix with whatever induction hose too. I wish Mountune sold that adapter piece separately, hehe, as I'm sure with the actual induction hose part having exactly the same evap connection as all of them and that's the magic part of the formula.
 


Dpro

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#64
Good point, and I'm not against profits either, I'm not a commie, LOL, I just know most of this stuff is made in cheap labor countries anyway, whether it costs $150 or $60, you know? But yeah, at $143 with discount, that Mountune setup looks good and will likely have less issues with codes piecing together Whoosh's fix with whatever induction hose too. I wish Mountune sold that adapter piece separately, hehe, as I'm sure with the actual induction hose part having exactly the same evap connection as all of them and that's the magic part of the formula.
Well the Mountune hoses are quality Samco hoses. As far as the fitting goes that is a U.S. made item. A lot of those small AN fittings are U.S. made because they are precision aircraft stuff. Lots of small CNC shops all over SoCal doing that kind of work for the Aerospace industry. Its actually stuff we don’t buy from China because its for fighter planes and whatnot.
I am sure they buy the fittings local because the guy at Mountune told me when I was at the MoFoCo meet. They had to wait for the the Hoses to come in from Samco.
 


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#65
would a setup like this with the oem crossover mimic the results of AEM and map? only real difference I can tell is the size of the filters being larger on the latter 2


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danbfree

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#66
Well the Mountune hoses are quality Samco hoses. As far as the fitting goes that is a U.S. made item. A lot of those small AN fittings are U.S. made because they are precision aircraft stuff. Lots of small CNC shops all over SoCal doing that kind of work for the Aerospace industry. Its actually stuff we don’t buy from China because its for fighter planes and whatnot.
I am sure they buy the fittings local because the guy at Mountune told me when I was at the MoFoCo meet. They had to wait for the the Hoses to come in from Samco.
FYI I ordered the Mountune '16+ induction hose, but is back-ordered, of course... Can't wait to get it!
 


danbfree

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#67
would a setup like this with the oem crossover mimic the results of AEM and map? only real difference I can tell is the size of the filters being larger on the latter 2
I think the a lot of the gains are in the crossover too. So if you have plenty of free flow before the crossover and then bottleneck it from there using an OEM crossover, you may not see much gains.
 


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#68
I think the a lot of the gains are in the crossover too. So if you have plenty of free flow before the crossover and then bottleneck it from there using an OEM crossover, you may not see much gains.
Good point. I actually read as part of MAP's r&d they kept the oem crossover due to the plastic having better thermal properties than any custom metal one they could make, to prevent heat soak. Thoughts?

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danbfree

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Good point. I actually read as part of MAP's r&d they kept the oem crossover due to the plastic having better thermal properties than any custom metal one they could make, to prevent heat soak. Thoughts?
Funny timing you mention that, I have a Whoosh x-over that is metal and it does indeed get very warm right above the turbo. But same guy who was kind enough to donate a Cobb RMM after having probs with my others also donated a piece of blanket to me... so I ordered some heat tape to seal off the edges and wrap more and it JUST arrived. I'll be installing this afternoon, but indeed at least some basic heat tape would be highly recommended, it's pretty cheap off Amazon.
 


danbfree

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Good point. I actually read as part of MAP's r&d they kept the oem crossover due to the plastic having better thermal properties than any custom metal one they could make, to prevent heat soak. Thoughts?
Just wrapped my crossover. Used a piece of thermal blanket for the hottest spot right above the turbo. But the tape alone would help and is $6 a roll. Now to put it all back together again, lol.

IMG_20190801_155429.jpg
 


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#71
Just wrapped my crossover. Used a piece of thermal blanket for the hottest spot right above the turbo. But the tape alone would help and is $6 a roll. Now to put it all back together again, lol.

View attachment 22330
looks solid. that's probably the way to go

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gtx3076

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#74
This thread should be stickied, and is exactly what I was looking for. Looks the intake is a restriction, just not good for anything besides more torque. 5whp is not something I'd throw money at, but 20wtq is.
 


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