Swift Spec-R Springs Installed

[KKaWing]

Just finished reading the bulk of this thread. Definitely want to do something about that ride height. In the pics someone posted the swifts look like they are progressive to me (different spacing between coils) - am I missing something?

They're technically dual rate springs, which is exactly as it sounds. The spring has 2 different spring rates for the 2 sections that are wound differently. The tighter part completely collapses when the car is on the ground and effectively is not in play. They call that part a tender section. That part allows the car to be lowered, but still keep the spring captive where it's supposed to be. Once on the ground, the other part takes over and that part is linear. A progressive spring does not necessarily have to have differently wound sections. It can have even coils throughout the spring and still be progressive.

Here's a link with comparisons of aftermarket springs to take a look at if you have some time to burn: https://store.redshiftmotorsports.com/category-s/134.htm

 

[FiestaAlex]

They're technically dual rate springs, which is exactly as it sounds. The spring has 2 different spring rates for the 2 sections that are wound differently. The tighter part completely collapses when the car is on the ground and effectively is not in play. They call that part a tender section. That part allows the car to be lowered, but still keep the spring captive where it's supposed to be. Once on the ground, the other part takes over and that part is linear. A progressive spring does not necessarily have to have differently wound sections. It can have even coils throughout the spring and still be progressive.

Here's a link with comparisons of aftermarket springs to take a look at if you have some time to burn: https://store.redshiftmotorsports.com/category-s/134.htm

Interesting, thanks for the clarification. I've actually seen that page you linked, good review of those springs and visualization of force vs compression but it didn't explain the basic concept of having a weak ("tender") section that simply keeps the spring in place when unloaded. You knocked that out in one sentence.

So that section will coil bind, and limit the amount of travel, keep the spring from getting unseated, while the rest of the spring is linear or progressive, but typically stiffer than stock to make up for the limited amount of travel? Is that right? This is why you can't just lop off a coil or two off the stock spring and call it a day. Makes sense.

I wonder how they get evenly spaced coils of the same diameter to be progressive or linear. I always assumed that having different coil spacing and diameter dictated linear vs progressive. Never messed with coil springs much. My M3 has Eibachs over Koni yellows, which works really well and was recommended to me as a popular street set up. On my old corvette springs were stock. It had a very unique transverse spring made of some carbon-composite material, which also acts as a sway bar. I wanted to rip it out and do coilovers at some point, but sold it and bought the M3. Basically never had a chance to fully understand the ins and outs of coil springs. I had a '95 integra that I swapped to a full Type R suspension I bought from a local importer (struts, springs, LCAs, sway bars, braces, etc), and that was a remove and replace affair, no thinking necessary. Again great result but the only choice I had to make was to do it or not to do it...

Here I'm debating Swifts for handling versus Eibachs for comfort. In both cases I want the lower CG and less roll. I thought all lowering springs were generally stiffer than stock, which would reduce roll, but many people say the Eibachs actually feel softer than stock, and there's MORE roll on turn-in - maybe due to being progressive? Doesn't sound like a perfect solution. Swifts seem better in that respect, but the Fiesta is already so stiff that I'm a bit weary of going significantly stiffer. I hate having to make blind choices. And I don't want to buy both sets just to find out which I like more

Is there a comprehensive review of each set for our cars, by someone who tried both over stock shocks? I saw Ron's post, but he's going off other people's experiences and it boils down to comfort vs handling between Eibachs and Swifts... Those obviously mean different things to different people.

For example I tried the AWR RMM, softest bushing (71 or whatever) - uninstalled it the next week. The cons outweighed the pros by far, for me, in a daily driver. Very solid and well made, price was right. Just not for me. Very thin bushing. Going to try a COBB or Mountune, something a good amount thicker and softer. Many reviews said it's "perfectly streetable" but I'd say it's a track-only part. Mirrors and everything else including my fillings jiggled like crazy at idle with AC on. Ruined the car, honestly. Basically everyone has their own threshold of what is acceptable in a commuter, and I'm wondering which spring will suit my taste given that experience.

 

[LanT5]

"comfort vs handling between Eibachs and Swifts... Those obviously mean different things to different people"

So true. I still wouldn't classify Eibachs as a comfort option. The Bilstein/Eibach combo I'm running has slightly and I mean ever so slightly more compliant than stock but it is still a harsh setup on the street. I have done a few track days and the car is great, turn in is sharp, balance is very good, can't say I feel it has too much roll.
I've begun to contemplate looking at a set of Meister GT1 coilovers. Go the custom valved route.

 

[FiestaAlex]

At this point, after weighing the cost of new shocks and springs together, I think I'll just go for the B14 copilover set. Adjustable and everyone raves about it. Fronts are linear, monotube shocks, etc. That ticks every box except cost, but I should gain some compliance over bad patches of road. Our roads aren't terrible (SD area) but not super great either.

If I buy new hats and all that, the swap should be pretty easy. I can leave the old struts intact, maybe sell them or keep them for when I sell the car. I do have a spring compressor, but at this point in my life easy and fast is another selling point.

 

[tyhackman15]

Swifts are made for OEM struts and in my experience ride about the same. Also you don't need a compressor to install them, it's incredibly easy and takes about 2 hours with a floor jack and hand tools (other than an impact to get the top nut off the strut, but even a cheap electric one does the trick). I'd recommend giving them a shot for the few hundred dollars vs coilovers if you truly just want a nice daily.

 

[theblue]

sorry if burried somewhere in here, but I've narrowed down to swift, H&R sport (not super sport), and cobb.

H&R sport is the cheapest by a lot. I'm curious if anybody has experienced more than one of these and can compare them

 

[ron@whoosh]

sorry if burried somewhere in here, but I've narrowed down to swift, H&R sport (not super sport), and cobb.

H&R sport is the cheapest by a lot. I'm curious if anybody has experienced more than one of these and can compare them

COBB is basically the same spec as Eibach
H&R is a good set of springs and it drops the car just right (the Sport @ 1.5")

Another great option that is relatively new to us in the US is Whiteline

 

[theblue]

I put a white line roll correction kit on my Evolution 8 back in like 2005, they’re a great company. I’m looking for stock shock compatible and street first but track day capable. Let’s talk if you need somebody to test and document for you.

 

[LILIKE16ST]

sorry if burried somewhere in here, but I've narrowed down to swift, H&R sport (not super sport), and cobb.

H&R sport is the cheapest by a lot. I'm curious if anybody has experienced more than one of these and can compare them

Imo swift is the best spring for the ST in particular if you are reusing stock dampers but also with upgraded dampers. They are more performance oriented in my mind as they are dual rate (in effect act just like a linear spring once the car is on the ground) so they are little more predictable and stuff over the others as they are progressive rate. If this isn't something that matters to you and you don't mind going progressive then IMO out of those 3 I would go with the H&R because they have the best drop between those and eibach and handling will be every bit as good as eibach and price is cheaper. So IMO swift if you want linear rate and more predictable handing and H&R if that isn't a concern.

 

[theblue]

Imo swift is the best spring for the ST in particular if you are reusing stock dampers but also with upgraded dampers. They are more performance oriented in my mind as they are dual rate (in effect act just like a linear spring once the car is on the ground) so they are little more predictable and stuff over the others as they are progressive rate. If this isn't something that matters to you and you don't mind going progressive then IMO out of those 3 I would go with the H&R because they have the best drop between those and eibach and handling will be every bit as good as eibach and price is cheaper. So IMO swift if you want linear rate and more predictable handing and H&R if that isn't a concern.

thanks for the info. can you rate them from general softest to hardest and also smallest drop to most drop if you know?

 

[LILIKE16ST]

thanks for the info. can you rate them from general softest to hardest and also smallest drop to most drop if you know?

swift is probably the hardest as they are stiff and not progressive eibach is probably the softest but I would say that H&r and eibach would be close enough in ride to choose based off of other factors like drop and price. If you want a very slightly milder drop and very slightly better ride then eibach if you want the opposite and save cash h&r. if it was me I would have went h&r if I didn't want a linear spring and more preditable handling.

 

[Mikey456]

As a result of the reviews (thank you) I’ve read, I recently purchased the Swift springs for my car. I like the aesthetic of the car with the 1 inch drop and the flatter handling. In the future, I am considering the TB torsion bar for better rotation.

 

[pinchvalve]

I have a question about the sway bar links. With the car lower, does that add pre-load to the front sway bar? I am thinking that adjustable links would be required with lowered coils, but see no info on that anywhere.

 

[TemecFist]

215/45/17 nexen sur4g for autocross, some fender liner rub at full lock and when loaded up hard in the front

stock wheels and tires no rub, also on Koni yellows

Are you on the swift springs also? I'm running 215/40r17s now with the Swift springs and have zero rub, but I want to go to a 205/45/17 but have heard they might rub with Swift springs. Any ideas?

 

[neeqness]

Are you on the swift springs also? I'm running 215/40r17s now with the Swift springs and have zero rub, but I want to go to a 205/45/17 but have heard they might rub with Swift springs. Any ideas?

In general, you are very likely to rub. However, if the roads that you frequently travel are fairly smooth and/or your shocks are particularly tight, it's possible that you won't.

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

 

[Mikey456]

Are you on the swift springs also? I'm running 215/40r17s now with the Swift springs and have zero rub, but I want to go to a 205/45/17 but have heard they might rub with Swift springs. Any ideas?

What wheel/tire brand combo are you running at the 215/40r17?

 

[DangerMouse]

I just installed swift springs with bilstein b8's. I forgot to measure or take before pics but it doesn't even look lowered at all. Now lowering wasn't my reason for this setup, it was a nice bonus even if only one inch. I did install powerflex rear spring pads so I knew that would be a factor but the front doesn't even look lowered.

I love the setup so far. Still firm but more compliant over bumps. Less jarring. Less rattles and clunk too. I suppose it's possible my front oem struts were going bad. They don't appear to be leaking but who knows, only 24k miles.

 

[TemecFist]

What wheel/tire brand combo are you running at the 215/40r17?

I'm running Federal RS-RR's, stock wheels

 

[Grendlehop18]

I just installed swift springs with bilstein b8's. I forgot to measure or take before pics but it doesn't even look lowered at all. Now lowering wasn't my reason for this setup, it was a nice bonus even if only one inch. I did install powerflex rear spring pads so I knew that would be a factor but the front doesn't even look lowered.

I love the setup so far. Still firm but more compliant over bumps. Less jarring. Less rattles and clunk too. I suppose it's possible my front oem struts were going bad. They don't appear to be leaking but who knows, only 24k miles.

How long did the swap take you? I'd be working on the ground, under my carport, ugh. Thx!

 

[DangerMouse]

How long did the swap take you? I'd be working on the ground, under my carport, ugh. Thx!

Did mine in a garage by myself. Start to finish was around 3-3 1/2 hours.

That also included time to pull the trunk panels out and time I spent trying to fit endlinks that aren't made for our car. I did have the fronts already assembled so that helped.

One thing I'll say is use the stock nuts on the top of the rear shocks. The nut that comes with the bilstein shocks is same thread but a much larger nut and it will rub on the inside of the car.