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* NEW PRODUCT* 11-18 Fiesta ST UPGRADED Alternator Pulley. (Quick Acceleration) Thoughts/ Suggestions
- Thread starter HBST51
- Start date
Have you checked to see if there is a difference in the charge voltage at idle? Running the alternator slower at idle might mean that you’re discharging the battery. I’ve no doubt that the voltage will rise to the regulator voltage with just a little engine rev. but Ford sized that pulley for a reason.
Before I get to this intake that you are speaking of here. I have a big turbo so would you think the pully would be noticeable with it? Now to the intake I’m very curious on the design have in mind. I have been interested in swapping out for the IGT that goes under the headlight but if you design is more efficient I’m interested.
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OP
Thread Starter
#48
Thread Starter
#48
@jeffreylyon....You know I don't like you trolling my post, BUT to answer your question.... as I stated in my OP the voltage was tested and I have been running this now for 3 weeks with no issues to alt voltage or Battery drop. So with this pulley it is only 3/4 of a inch larger than the stock clutched pulley....Without getting into any long drawn out discussions. To simply answer your question NO...It does not affect voltage. A FORD master mechanic is actually the one who put me on to this specific pulley size, its a standard FORD pulley that had the snout machined to fit flush on the Alternator. This is not some homemade grinder machining, this was machined on a lathe the size of a car that's used to machine aircraft parts man. The pulley is well thought out and machined to work perfectly. That's why I personally tested all 6 on my own vehicle a week before even making this post. I have two going out for 2 people to test, The results will be in soon for everyone to make there own judgement on if they would like to purchase or not.
@NorcalBTFiST....No this is a Intake you are thinking of, trying to find a material that will remain cool in Summer months and hold up over time....Titanium is EXTREMELY expensive and you have to be very skilled at welding to make it look good. Also looking at Carbon Fiber intake tubes...(Similar to a JLT) I liked the idea of the intake that went in under the plastic vent with the wiper motor (Not sure of the company who designed it) but that is prone to sucking in water. So I am looking at a intake that runs down towards the driver fender beside the windshield washer fluid tank. But im still looking for a optimal "airflow'' location for the filter. As far as the pulley, I think you would actually benefit from it due to the fact you have a larger turbo....It would spool up quicker. If you have any questions DM me and I will answer any you may have.
@NorcalBTFiST....No this is a Intake you are thinking of, trying to find a material that will remain cool in Summer months and hold up over time....Titanium is EXTREMELY expensive and you have to be very skilled at welding to make it look good. Also looking at Carbon Fiber intake tubes...(Similar to a JLT) I liked the idea of the intake that went in under the plastic vent with the wiper motor (Not sure of the company who designed it) but that is prone to sucking in water. So I am looking at a intake that runs down towards the driver fender beside the windshield washer fluid tank. But im still looking for a optimal "airflow'' location for the filter. As far as the pulley, I think you would actually benefit from it due to the fact you have a larger turbo....It would spool up quicker. If you have any questions DM me and I will answer any you may have.
OP
Thread Starter
#49
Thread Starter
#49
If anyone has a design idea for an actual INTAKE MANIFOLD for the engine, get with me and I will see if I can get one welded up. They currently do not offer a engine intake manifold for the fiesta, or if someone has an idea for a Carbon Fiber intake that would be legit also. I have the resources to make these parts, Just need some ideas on parts to be designed that are not currently offered. My whole idea with these parts is is to offer products that are not currently being offered for our vehicles. The Focus ST/RS have so many options but the Fist seems like its always left out. I want to change that!
Except for the fact that load is what causes boost. Less load means a larger delay in boost (although we are talking a practically insignificant amount of weight here). This logic would have the opposite effect of faster spool time.
Not to mention that the weight savings benefit (unless it’s significant) will be completely negated by the larger diameter of the pulley.
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Not to mention that the weight savings benefit (unless it’s significant) will be completely negated by the larger diameter of the pulley.
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Wow, are you delicate. I posed a question to a brand new member and vendor to this forum; I did not troll. But, since you answered my question with a bunch of anecdote rather than just putting a voltmeter of the battery terminals at idle, OF COURSE YOUR PULLEY AFFECTS ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE. If you spin an alternator slower, it produces less voltage. That's why there's a voltage regulator and why the alternator and pulley are sized to ensure that the alternator is producing enough voltage and is able to supply enough current at idle with the high beams and fog lights on, A/C running a full tilt with fan set to max, and a thirsty battery. That the pulley is a FORD part, that it's turned on a high quality lathe instead of ground on in your house, etc. makes no different to the alternator, which is now spinning more slowly.
Let's do some assumptive math. On a perfect day I'm motoring around in my FiST. A/C off, lights off, etc. So the electrical drain is the LPFP, the injectors, the computers, the instruments and the electrical power steering when I turn. I don't know how much power steering drains, so I'm going straight for this exercise. I'm going to assume that's, say, 10 amps of draw and then double it - 20 amps.
14VDC @ 20 Amps = .28 KW = .36 HP
All the electronics on my car are drawing .36 HP direct and some due to inefficiency of the alternator. Make it easy, say the alternator is only 33% efficient. Rounding off, that's 1 HP. So if I took my alternator off and ran my FiST 0-charge, like my race car, I'd gain 1 HP. The only reason I run 0-change of my race car is weight because the drain of an alternator is zip, esp. when I'm not running lights or A/C.
The interesting thing is that an alternator does not induce drain as does, say, a water pump. A water pump is always pumping. An alternator supplies current as needed - more electrical load == more current == more drain. That's why older cars drop revs. at idle when you turn on the lights - more load.
What works for you on your commute might completely fail for someone stuck in stop and go traffic with the A/C and lights on.
For sure there's less of a dynamic load b/c you're spinning the alternator up more slowly. A V-dyno would show that improvement. Why not post a before and after?
You see where this is going. I love the entrepreneurial spirit - back it up with some facts and a lot less whining. You want to sell on this forum? Give one to Jeff and let him do a review. He's fair, comprehensive, and trusted and that's worth a lot more than $35 of direct cost. In the meantime, build some facts about your product - not that it's turned on a nice lathe, but the positive effect on the cars of the people you're trying to turn into customers. If you can prove a 2 HP improvement with no loss of function, then you've got a winner. If not, everyone on this forum deserves to know that before you take money from them.
Let's do some assumptive math. On a perfect day I'm motoring around in my FiST. A/C off, lights off, etc. So the electrical drain is the LPFP, the injectors, the computers, the instruments and the electrical power steering when I turn. I don't know how much power steering drains, so I'm going straight for this exercise. I'm going to assume that's, say, 10 amps of draw and then double it - 20 amps.
14VDC @ 20 Amps = .28 KW = .36 HP
All the electronics on my car are drawing .36 HP direct and some due to inefficiency of the alternator. Make it easy, say the alternator is only 33% efficient. Rounding off, that's 1 HP. So if I took my alternator off and ran my FiST 0-charge, like my race car, I'd gain 1 HP. The only reason I run 0-change of my race car is weight because the drain of an alternator is zip, esp. when I'm not running lights or A/C.
The interesting thing is that an alternator does not induce drain as does, say, a water pump. A water pump is always pumping. An alternator supplies current as needed - more electrical load == more current == more drain. That's why older cars drop revs. at idle when you turn on the lights - more load.
What works for you on your commute might completely fail for someone stuck in stop and go traffic with the A/C and lights on.
For sure there's less of a dynamic load b/c you're spinning the alternator up more slowly. A V-dyno would show that improvement. Why not post a before and after?
You see where this is going. I love the entrepreneurial spirit - back it up with some facts and a lot less whining. You want to sell on this forum? Give one to Jeff and let him do a review. He's fair, comprehensive, and trusted and that's worth a lot more than $35 of direct cost. In the meantime, build some facts about your product - not that it's turned on a nice lathe, but the positive effect on the cars of the people you're trying to turn into customers. If you can prove a 2 HP improvement with no loss of function, then you've got a winner. If not, everyone on this forum deserves to know that before you take money from them.
Also, to add, from an engineering standpoint, replacing a smaller pulley with a larger pulley is going to increase your rotational inertia, that is to say that it will make that pulley (and your entire drive belt system) LESS likely to change rpm.
The formula for rotational inertia, measures a resistance to a change in rotational speed with this equation:
I=(M)x(R)^2
I is the rotational inertia, another way of saying your engines unwillingness to change rpms.
M is the mass, you said you’ve reduced this.
R is the radius, which you’ve increased. Increasing this is the best way to increase the I in the equation because this quantity is squared, while M is not.
This is why 16” and 15” wheels are so popular with this car, not only do you generally lose weight in that process but you are also decreasing the R in the above equation netting a massive win for a reduction in I.
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The formula for rotational inertia, measures a resistance to a change in rotational speed with this equation:
I=(M)x(R)^2
I is the rotational inertia, another way of saying your engines unwillingness to change rpms.
M is the mass, you said you’ve reduced this.
R is the radius, which you’ve increased. Increasing this is the best way to increase the I in the equation because this quantity is squared, while M is not.
This is why 16” and 15” wheels are so popular with this car, not only do you generally lose weight in that process but you are also decreasing the R in the above equation netting a massive win for a reduction in I.
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I'd like to mention that plenty of us run the 2J cowl intake with no problem, myself included, and to the manufacturers knowledge there hasn't ever actually been any incident with water intake from the design. So if you'd like to design something made from titanium in that locationI'm sure there would be a market for it!
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OP
Thread Starter
#57
Thread Starter
#57
No no I was not talking about the 2J intake at all....If you read the post I said “I did not know the manufacturer” it’s the intake that runs up in front of the windshield....So whoever said that “I said it was the 2J” you need to reread and correct your post....
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