Fiesta ST Intake Thread

[danbfree]

I would agree with this. I have the Mountune air box which comes with the MP215 tune, my understanding is it is exactly the same thing except the Mountune one is metal and the ST200 one is plastic. You can buy it separately without doing the whole tune.
The Mountune box uses the stock upper part where the air filter is, and adds a new lower part that has an extra cold air feed which brings in colder air from down low behind the bumper / fog light area. One advantage of both of these is that they are OEM, the Mountune one being developed in close cooperation with Ford.
This air box only adds a small extra bit of sound, which sounds like what you are looking for. However, I did choose to use it with the stock paper air filter to get the extra air filtration after a lot of folks on here reported that it would not detract from the power. I suspect that if you use it with the included K&N type air filter or another panel filter that there would be more noticeable extra sound.

Here's the intake from Mountune-
https://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-Induction-Upgrade-Kit-Fiesta-ST-2014-18-p/2364-cais-aa.htm

Here it is with the tune added, same airbox as you can see-
https://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-Fiesta-ST-MP215-Performance-Upgrade-p/2364-215-aa.htm

Yes, a drop in adds more sound for sure, I just feel the stock paper filter is WAY too think and restrictive and a well maintained drop in is the way to go... but also where the evap connects to has nothing to do with the airbox, it is the induction hose section that also helps provide actual gains. Then at that point you have to consider "fixes".

 

[Dpro]

Don't care; 2014-2015 evap harness guarantees every intake to work without codes. Also, are you aware that the 2016+ "fix" included with most 2016+ intakes alters the evap harness in way to make it operate like the 2014-2015 harness? Even the MAPerformance intake for 2016+ models involves cutting the evap harness to install their fix. Why not simply use the actual OEM component that is guaranteed to work instead of what is effectively a band-aid that may potentially require you to mangle your factory harness? Unless saving $20 is a priority, in which case, no judgment here.

Or, as Ford ST stated, just get the ST200 airbox.

As far as induction hoses go Mountune now sells a 2016+ induction hose with the proper fitting for all 2016+ setups. No kits no messing around. Has the proper t fitting for connecting up the evap lines. I was going to use the Whoosh induction Hose with their $45 evap line kit . Now that this is out I figure ya its gonna cost me $20-30 more but it looks stock! I already am putting in a ST200 Airbox with a ITG/Revo panel filter.

 

[koozy]

2016+ OE Evap noodle solutions look like poo, lol


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[koozy]

I know that I keep saying this, but you know what else is guaranteed to work? The '14-'15 evap harness, and unlike many of these fixes it doesn't involve hacking apart your factory harness. Another point in my previous post that you seem to have glossed over is that all these fixes really do is make the '16+ evap harness function similarly to the '14-'15 harness anyway, so concerns about TSBs are rather moot IMO.



Being a package or not has nothing to do with being a band-aid, and it's disingenuous to imply that. Function and form dictate this. Do they function? Sure, but so does a band-aid. As for "form," that can be largely subjective. More on that below...



Yes, in the case of the MAPerformance '16+ intake, the savings are more like $35-$40 vs their '14-'15 intake with the OEM '14-'15 harness. But, here's why I don't consider any savings that are less than the cost of an entirely new evap harnesss to be worth it: in the case of the MAPerformance '16+ intake, which you brought up as an example of an intake with an alternative evap fix, in MAP's own installation video guide they recommend taking a razor to the factory evap harness in order to remove and replace a portion of it with their evap fix. Here's the video, timestamped to the relevant portion: [video]https://youtu.be/2lvDB9z9Ysk?t=65[/video]

Perhaps you could use a heat gun to soften the plastic hard line at the fitting and remove it without cutting, but having used heat on this type of hard line before I can speak from experience that it's often tricky at best, and good luck getting it to fit back on securely!

I'm also not 100% certain about other makes as I haven't looked over all of the install guides, but many of the evap fixes included with others have a "blank" end that would appear to require you to do the same. I could be wrong, so maybe someone can correct me on that.

Anyway, anything that involves hacking apart a factory component and potentially altering/damaging it irreversibly is a poorly thought out design and even poorer value, especially if you are at all concerned with the possibility of needing to return the car to stock for any reason at any point in the future. I would call it a band-aid as the most generous descriptor, and would call it a hack job if I wanted to be blunt about it. I cannot and do not presume to speak for other people here, but spending another $20-$40 to save my stock evap harness and avoid the possibility of needing to buy a new evap harness in the future anyway is worth it. (Tangent - this is one reason I wrote off a number of RMM replacements, since they require you to drill out and remove the bracket from the stock mount. No thanks!)



True enough! No arguments here.



Yeah, I saw that! I really hope that they offer that fitting separately at some point, or that someone else offers a similar piece!



This guy gets it.

I find it pathetic that those running CATLESS are so interested in getting their EVAP clean. ROFL, tools.


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[Dpro]

I find it pathetic that those running CATLESS are so interested in getting their EVAP clean. ROFL, tools.


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Its more comical.

“i am gonna go catless” lol why becuase you pick up 1-2hp. Damn dealt with that in the 240 world. Get a clue gaining 1-2 hp is a waste of your time and money. Yet all these big Turbo guys on Facebook want to go or do go catless. Woohoo you jus gained 1-2 hp and slightly better flow. Big Win!

And then they get worried about evap lines? Huh what?

 

[koozy]

Yeah, I guess. If you're talking about me, I haven't touched my exhaust yet so all my plans are subject to change. After having read more about spool/laminar flow benefits with catalysts vs decat downpipes on our cars, I'm hoping that Ron releases a V2 Catted downpipe with a two-bolt bracket by the time I do.

Not you specifically. I tend to be blunt and straight forward with my thoughts.


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[koozy]

It's cool either way, koozy. You know we all love you! I was just confused by you quoting me.

Yeah, I was on my phone and it’s a pain to try to delete lines of texts sometimes. I wasn’t aware you were catless tbh. I just know there’s a lot of peeps out their that are and are also fiddling with the Evap to get it clean.


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[danbfree]

As far as induction hoses go Mountune now sells a 2016+ induction hose with the proper fitting for all 2016+ setups. No kits no messing around. Has the proper t fitting for connecting up the evap lines. I was going to use the Whoosh induction Hose with their $45 evap line kit . Now that this is out I figure ya its gonna cost me $20-30 more but it looks stock! I already am putting in a ST200 Airbox with a ITG/Revo panel filter.

Yeah, there is a Mishimoto induction kit for '16+ too, but they are $140-150 (after discount with Mountune) but there is the decent brand RAMAIR induction hose for less than $60 on eBay but without a "fix" for '16+ included. I just wish I knew if the Whoosh, Cobb or other fix out there in the $40-45 range would work, for sure, with no CEL's... it's just too weird to think I have to spend more on an adapter than the induction hose too, but I'm also the ultimate cheap skate, LOL. At least I research when it's OK to skimp or not, I'll step up in price if I HAVE to, to make sure it works too. So that why I'm actually considering just getting the Mishimoto or Mountune induction kit since I already have a crossover upgrade. Then, since I already have a drop in and cold air cut out in the shroud for factory snorkel, I can do what has gains now and maybe do the airbox later for a bit more intake sound.

 

[danbfree]

I know that I keep saying this, but you know what else is guaranteed to work? The '14-'15 evap harness, and unlike many of these fixes it doesn't involve hacking apart your factory harness. Another point in my previous post that you seem to have glossed over is that all these fixes really do is make the '16+ evap harness function similarly to the '14-'15 harness anyway, so concerns about TSBs are rather moot IMO.



Being a package or not has nothing to do with being a band-aid, and it's disingenuous to imply that. Function and form dictate this. Do they function? Sure, but so does a band-aid. As for "form," that can be largely subjective. More on that below...



Yes, in the case of the MAPerformance '16+ intake, the savings are more like $35-$40 vs their '14-'15 intake with the OEM '14-'15 harness. But, here's why I don't consider any savings that are less than the cost of an entirely new evap harnesss to be worth it: in the case of the MAPerformance '16+ intake, which you brought up as an example of an intake with an alternative evap fix, in MAP's own installation video guide they recommend taking a razor to the factory evap harness in order to remove and replace a portion of it with their evap fix. Here's the video, timestamped to the relevant portion: [video]https://youtu.be/2lvDB9z9Ysk?t=65[/video]

Perhaps you could use a heat gun to soften the plastic hard line at the fitting and remove it without cutting, but having used heat on this type of hard line before I can speak from experience that it's often tricky at best, and good luck getting it to fit back on securely!

I'm also not 100% certain about other makes as I haven't looked over all of the install guides, but many of the evap fixes included with others have a "blank" end that would appear to require you to do the same. I could be wrong, so maybe someone can correct me on that.

Anyway, anything that involves hacking apart a factory component and potentially altering/damaging it irreversibly is a poorly thought out design and even poorer value, especially if you are at all concerned with the possibility of needing to return the car to stock for any reason at any point in the future. I would call it a band-aid as the most generous descriptor, and would call it a hack job if I wanted to be blunt about it. I cannot and do not presume to speak for other people here, but spending another $20-$40 to save my stock evap harness and avoid the possibility of needing to buy a new evap harness in the future anyway is worth it. (Tangent - this is one reason I wrote off a number of RMM replacements, since they require you to drill out and remove the bracket from the stock mount. No thanks!)



True enough! No arguments here.



Yeah, I saw that! I really hope that they offer that fitting separately at some point, or that someone else offers a similar piece!



This guy gets it.

You make good points, I'm leaning strongly towards the Mishimoto or Mountune induction hose, no cutting anything there or just using the OEM harness. As long as it doesn't cause stalling then I could appreciate the plugs and play factory.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

You make good points, I'm leaning strongly towards the Mishimoto or Mountune induction hose, no cutting anything there or just using the OEM harness. As long as it doesn't cause stalling then I could appreciate the plugs and play factory.

So does the ST200 box....[emoji23]

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[danbfree]

So does the ST200 box...

hehe, but that's a different story, I agree for the airbox end, but it's the induction hose section that has the evap connector. You either buy a whole intake or you piece together, like when you use the ST200 air box. From there you still need to upgrade the induction hose and crossover, it's upgrading those 2 sections that show the actual gains. Going ST200 air box is mainly for sound and if you want a cold air hose intake off the bottom.

 

[danbfree]

Good call, I bet those would work great for you! I think you were spot-on about the induction/crossover being the main restriction in the stock intake - I recall reading about testing done that indicated that to be the case.

Also, sorry if I came off harshly. I'm gonna have to take the koozy defense on that one.

No, thanks for the quality feedback, love to see people break down their reasoning and I learned a lot from that! So it's either RAMAIR with OEM harness, Mishimoto or Mountune all in the $140 range to "do it right". I'll have to research the 2 different fix systems on the Mishimoto and Mountune and decide from there!

 

[Ford ST]

So does the ST200 box....[emoji23]

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Somebody gets it. It was my second mod.

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[Dpro]

Yeah, there is a Mishimoto induction kit for '16+ too, but they are $140-150 (after discount with Mountune) but there is the decent brand RAMAIR induction hose for less than $60 on eBay but without a "fix" for '16+ included. I just wish I knew if the Whoosh, Cobb or other fix out there in the $40-45 range would work, for sure, with no CEL's... it's just too weird to think I have to spend more on an adapter than the induction hose too, but I'm also the ultimate cheap skate, LOL. At least I research when it's OK to skimp or not, I'll step up in price if I HAVE to, to make sure it works too. So that why I'm actually considering just getting the Mishimoto or Mountune induction kit since I already have a crossover upgrade. Then, since I already have a drop in and cold air cut out in the shroud for factory snorkel, I can do what has gains now and maybe the airbox later for a bit more intake sound.

I have a Whoosh induction hose with the whoosh kit for sale both are new unused . People have had issues with the Mishimoto one. Mountune is pretty good on the its factory it works front. So its why I am most likely spending the extra cash to get theirs. I just want the basic underhood appearance to look unmessed with as possible, in the odd chance I wind up in Irvine and get some overzealous cop wanting to pop my hood and have a look.

 

[Dpro]

So does the ST200 box....[emoji23]

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I think you got confused here.
The induction hose is where the evap lines connect. Which connects to the Airbox but is not a part of it . Some aftermarket intake kits include a changed induction hose setup but the ST200 box and the stock one do not.



I beleive the confusion stems from them thread title and tossing around the terminology in the aftermarket..

 

[danbfree]

I have a Whoosh induction hose with the whoosh kit for sale both are new unused . People have had issues with the Mishimoto one. Mountune is pretty good on the its factory it works front. So its why I am most likely spending the extra cash to get theirs. I just want the basic underhood appearance to look unmessed with as possible, in the odd chance I wind up in Irvine and get some overzealous cop wanting to pop my hood and have a look.

But aren't they all pretty close in appearance or your are saying the Mountune connectors make the difference in appearing stock?

 

[grip grip]

I have a few intake questions I hope you guys can help me with. My '14 Fiesta ST is currently stage 3 running a loud AF Injen intake. I wrapped it with header wrap today, which helped quiet it down a lot but not enough for my taste. I have a Garrett 2860R I'm installing in the next few weeks, and I'm wondering if there's really any benefit to running the Injen versus the stock airbox? If the Injen doesn't really offer a power increase, then I want to go with a the stock airbox and maybe mod it. Will a '16/'17 Fiesta ST airbox setup work with my '14? There's a nice one on ebay for $130 shipped, which seems like a fair price. Will it fit without grief? Thanks

 

[TyphoonFiST]

I have a few intake questions I hope you guys can help me with. My '14 Fiesta ST is currently stage 3 running a loud AF Injen intake. I wrapped it with header wrap today, which helped quiet it down a lot but not enough for my taste. I have a Garrett 2860R I'm installing in the next few weeks, and I'm wondering if there's really any benefit to running the Injen versus the stock airbox? If the Injen doesn't really offer a power increase, then I want to go with a the stock airbox and maybe mod it. Will a '16/'17 Fiesta ST airbox setup work with my '14? There's a nice one on ebay for $130 shipped, which seems like a fair price. Will it fit without grief? Thanks

View attachment 20220

View attachment 20221

Just buy the ST200 box from Ron@whoosh and be done with it!

 

[Dpro]

But aren't they all pretty close in appearance or your are saying the Mountune connectors make the difference in appearing stock?

Here is the deal, in California there is a chance that for whatever reason I need to go to a smg check or ref haivng a evap kit or a 14-15 evap line setup on my car while looking stock could cause a ref or smog tech to say the lines were not stock for my 18.

Now granted he could also point to the induction hose amd say its not stock but in the case of the Mountune the lines would at least hook up to it in a somewhat stock comfiguration. I shoudl add some Smog techs might even go since all the lines are there and no codes you are good because I also have a stock looking Airbox aka ST200.

Plus I do not have to buy 14-15 evap lines and install them. Which are roughly $70 at the cheapest amd someplaces $90.
So best option buy a Mountune 2018 hose and keep my stock one just in case less hassle overall.

 

[Turbo9922]

Finally got it installed yesterday and I'm in love with the sound it makes.