Learnings from installing the 2j intake, since I couldn't find much install help.

[Clint Beastwood]

I've found several threads with users slinging "there are threads about this" but I cannot for the life of me locate one with *actual* instructions.
I found a thread listing some differences between the newer and older gen fists, but no actual clear installation instructions. I cannot for the life of me figure out routing the hoses :|

Also, I have been struggling to get the (darn) aluminum intake tube into the (gosh dang) rubber coupler that attach to the (midget farting) turbo. This tube should really be two (goldmine) pieces.

My learnings during install:
- Put the silicone coupler onto the intake before dropping it into the car. If you install the coupler onto the turbo inlet, it's nearly impossible to get the intake pipe in there.
- The heater hose they send is (oxen scat). It either needs a right-angle fitting on the end or tougher, internally supported hose. As-is, it kinks right where it comes out of the intake.
- If you have hand dexterity issues, get help. I paid my neighbor's stick-armed kid a hundred bucks to help me with the really fiddly bits. I just couldn't twist my arms to get an appropriate angle to get the intake seated onto the turbo inlet. It's still not 100% engaged, but its close.
- So far, no matter what I do, it rattles when I start the car and sometimes when I first release the clutch to get moving. Coasting down in-gear causes it to buzz. I currently am on stock mounts, so I will see if it improves with my RMM installed.
- Getting the stock hard-lines off to re-use the fitting (the big one that I think is PCV?) was easy with a blowdryer, I didn't have to cut anything.
- My 2j intake did not come with screws for the MAF sensor. I had to snag the screws from my old Injen intake.
- Because of how it lines up, if you put the MAF sensor in before installing the intake pipe, you run the risk of cracking the maf sensor like I did.

Helpful links:
How to remove the cowl/crossover pipe: https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/whoosh-motorsports-crossover-pipe-install-and-review.17983/
A (poorly cut) video about the installation:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRlmB0wGjls

I say poorly cut because he cuts out "boring stuff", but that boring stuff is important. Also, bad camera angles. I get that he's trying to make it like a TV show instead of an instructional video, but the angles and presentation get in the way of the efficacy of the video. I'd like to see a "raw uncut" version where he swears for 30 minutes trying to get the intake to line up.

--------
Because of all of my experience with helmholtz and quarter wave noise cancellation, I might add a threaded bung to the side of the 2j intake so I can screw on various sized side-branches to cancel out a few of the more headache-y frequencies from the intake. I would actually like to learn how to custom mold silicone so I can reproduce my 2j in pure silicone, it sure would make installation easier.

 

[MKVIIST]

Here you go https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/2j-cowl-intake-install-2016.14727/

 

[Clint Beastwood]

Here you go https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/2j-cowl-intake-install-2016.14727/

Thanks, but from the beginning of the other thread, "This will NOT serve as a full install guide, as there are plenty of tips floating around in other threads, but this will serve as a checklist for those of you wishing to perform the install on your newer model FiST."

I can't find any actual install guide. I'm watching this

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRlmB0wGjls
but when he drops down in and rotates it, I can't fit the intake past what I think is a brake line and the stock wastegate. That's where I'm hung up now, I've been trying for two hours to rotate it into place and cannot get it to fit, it's all scratched to heck now and my MAF clip has cracked.

 

[Alkoran]

Sub'd , I'll need those when my intake arrives.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

Ok anyone else that has one - no matter what you do it’s going to rattle against “something” when you start, right? I can’t for the life of me install without rattling at startup but I think that’s because it’s not supported by anything but the silicone coupler. Let me know if that’s accurate or not, I’m generally looking for things that fit like factory parts

 

[Clint Beastwood]

I moved all the info to the first post.

 

[nickstewartroc]

So my learnings thus far:

- Put the silicone coupler onto the intake before dropping it into the car. If you install the coupler onto the turbo inlet, it's nearly impossible to get the intake pipe in there.
- The heater hose they send is bullshit. It either needs a right-angle fitting on the end or tougher, internally supported hose. As-is, it kinks right where it comes out of the intake.
- If you have hand dexterity issues, get help. I paid my neighbor's stick-armed kid a hundred bucks to help me with the really fiddly bits. I just couldn't twist my arms to get an appropriate angle to get the intake seated onto the turbo inlet. It's still not 100% engaged, but its close.
- So far, no matter what I do, it rattles when I start the car and sometimes when I first release the clutch to get moving. Coasting down in-gear causes it to buzz. I currently am on stock mounts, so I will see if it improves with my RMM installed.
- Getting the stock hard-lines off to re-use the fitting (the big one that I think is PCV?) was easy with a blowdryer, I didn't have to cut anything.

I had the same problem with that hose. Ended up buying a PEX I think 1" or 3/4" elbow from Lowes that let me put a right angle on it, couldn't get it to work otherwise. As far as rattling, no issues on my side, but I do have an RMM

 

[Clint Beastwood]

I had the same problem with that hose. Ended up buying a PEX I think 1" or 3/4" elbow from Lowes that let me put a right angle on it, couldn't get it to work otherwise. As far as rattling, no issues on my side, but I do have an RMM

Thanks for the validation.
TBH, I'd be willing to pay 300-400 bucks for this intake if it came with instructions, better fittings, and slightly better fit and finish. It isn't "bad", but it seems very unrefined.

 

[Alkoran]

You have a 2017 right? What did you use for countering the check engine related to the vacuum line that is different on the 16+? I'm currently checking options out and the Cobb one seems appealing as it's cheap and very stock looking.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

You have a 2017 right? What did you use for countering the check engine related to the vacuum line that is different on the 16+? I'm currently checking options out and the Cobb one seems appealing as it's cheap and very stock looking.

I got the cobb thingy, good fit and finish for what it is.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

Anyone else installed and getting buzzing? I keep adjusting it but I get buzzing on decel.

 

[PhoenixM3]

Anyone else installed and getting buzzing? I keep adjusting it but I get buzzing on decel.

I was a dumbass and forgot to order the extender harness. Now I have that and am getting ready to install mine. I recall a 2JR thread where someone send dynamat to elliminate buzzing and to reduce interior noise.

 

[The Cuzi]

Ok anyone else that has one - no matter what you do it’s going to rattle against “something” when you start, right? I can’t for the life of me install without rattling at startup but I think that’s because it’s not supported by anything but the silicone coupler. Let me know if that’s accurate or not, I’m generally looking for things that fit like factory parts

I just finished my install last night. I don't have any vibration sounds, very tight in the cowl area, I'm not sure what we might have done differently.

 

[The Cuzi]

I'm sorry to read the install didn't go as easily as hoped. I had a fairly smooth install once I got the cobb adapter (take 1 got all the way to the vacuum lines before I realized I didn't check everything, smh). I got to ~90% solution very quickly and with a little improvisation finished it up in a few hours. The intake does not buzz or rattle (though I've only put about 100miles on thus far) but I'll be damned if the intake isn't audible.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

I'm sorry to read the install didn't go as easily as hoped. I had a fairly smooth install once I got the cobb adapter (take 1 got all the way to the vacuum lines before I realized I didn't check everything, smh). I got to ~90% solution very quickly and with a little improvisation finished it up in a few hours. The intake does not buzz or rattle (though I've only put about 100miles on thus far) but I'll be damned if the intake isn't audible.

Do you have the filter kinda wedged into the cowl area, or does the entire intake kinda move around? I've installed it both ways, if I rev it out in 3rd gear and coast down, I get a lot of vibration carried into the cowl. Do you have photos of your cowl hole? My honest concern is the pipe/filter rubbing against metal and winding up "holed" without me noticing. It's happened to me before.

 

[The Cuzi]

Do you have the filter kinda wedged into the cowl area, or does the entire intake kinda move around? I've installed it both ways, if I rev it out in 3rd gear and coast down, I get a lot of vibration carried into the cowl. Do you have photos of your cowl hole? My honest concern is the pipe/filter rubbing against metal and winding up "holed" without me noticing. It's happened to me before.

My entire setup is wedged in. It was actually quite difficult to get the pipe in place (where I assume most of the resistance is originating). I doubt that it added much size to the diameter but I did put DEI heat tape around the intake piping if that effects anything. The filter is also fairly tight in the cowl area. The 'holed' you mentioned is a concern and, pending shorterm unforeseen issues, I will check in on it again at the 5,000 mile mark.
I do not have pictures of the hole I cut in the cowl. It was not my best work so I may end up redoing this down the road. When it comes to the hole I tried to keep the hole very close to the width of the pipe but to give extra space above the pipe to allow for lateral/roll axis movement (engine flex). I have a RMM but I'm sure there is still plenty of movement. To dress the cut I cut a hose long ways and wedged it around the lip of the cut surface. It could be done much better, but thus far it is working. I still only have 100 miles on it, down the road I could get more vibration.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

My entire setup is wedged in. It was actually quite difficult to get the pipe in place (where I assume most of the resistance is originating). I doubt that it added much size to the diameter but I did put DEI heat tape around the intake piping if that effects anything. The filter is also fairly tight in the cowl area. The 'holed' you mentioned is a concern and, pending shorterm unforeseen issues, I will check in on it again at the 5,000 mile mark.
I do not have pictures of the hole I cut in the cowl. It was not my best work so I may end up redoing this down the road. When it comes to the hole I tried to keep the hole very close to the width of the pipe but to give extra space above the pipe to allow for longitudinal axis movement (engine flex). I have a RMM but I'm sure there is still plenty of movement. To dress the cut I cut a hose long ways and wedged it around the lip of the cut surface. It could be done much better, but thus far it is working. I still only have 100 miles on it, down the road I could get more vibration.

I installed edge bulb molding around the hole, it actually holds the tube snugly and dissipates some of the louder vibes, but instead of vibing filter-on-chassis, its vibing the entire cowl :|

 

[The Cuzi]

I installed edge bulb molding around the hole, it actually holds the tube snugly and dissipates some of the louder vibes, but instead of vibing filter-on-chassis, its vibing the entire cowl :|

That makes sense and I bet it looks great. I tried to prevent any contact between the pipe and cowl. Only because the cowl plastic seemed weak (with just a few bolts/clips) and I didn't want to pull/tear it loose during spirited driving. Do you think that contact could be giving your lower cowl a resonance and that is what you're hearing?

 

[Clint Beastwood]

That makes sense and I bet it looks great. I tried to prevent any contact between the pipe and cowl. Only because the cowl plastic seemed weak (with just a few bolts/clips) and I didn't want to pull/tear it loose during spirited driving. Do you think that contact could be giving your lower cowl a resonance and that is what you're hearing?

Either I wedge it against the firewall inside the cowl and deal with one sort of rattling/squeaking, or I wedge it against teh cowl and deal with the "cowl howl". I maybe made the hole in the cowl too small. If anyone else does their install can you grab pics of your cowl hole? Mine isn't pretty, all I had handy was an angle grinder, so the hole's pretty square.

 

[Dpro]

I gotta say this sounds like a lot of effort and hassle. Makes one think an ItE maxogen intake might be a simpller solution if its sound your after.