Tips For Replacing OEM Brake Fluid With High Temp Fluid

[drewcrolwey]

Hello Fiesta ST owners, I am taking my Fiesta ST to my first track day at Lime Rock in about a month and have a set of Hawk HPS 5.0 pads and Motul RBF 600 brake fluid to install before getting on track. What suggestions, tricks or tips do you have for replacing the OEM fluid with the high temp fluid particually in the Fiesta ST? Mostly worried about making sure the ABS module doesn't have any air in it when I'm done. I have never bled brakes before but familiar with the basic process and concept. Thanks!

 

[koozy]

What's your method for bleeding brakes?
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[maestromaestro]

There's no magic for it. Suck out the OEM fluid from the reservoir, fill it with the one you want, and start bleeding until the new ones starts coming out - start from the passenger side rear caliper, topping off as needed. (The assumption is that there IS a difference in color).

I don't like Motul 600 - the wet boiling temperature is not high enough for tracking in Houston summer. My preference is for the Castrol SRF.

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[SonicDeathmonkey]

Three words: Motive Power Bleeder! This makes it so easy and, for me, it's vastly superior to the vacuum pump method: https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/import-power-bleeder-kits As long as you have fluid in the Power Bleeder's reservoir you don't have to worry about running the car's reservoir dry. Just make sure you get the kit with the right adapter for the FiST's cap. I don't recall which one it is ATM.

I would also recommend Castrol SRF. It's pricey but the wet boiling point is way up there so you don't have to worry about flushing it quite as much as you would something like RBF600. I'm pretty sure that RBF was originally made for track use only where old fluid is constantly being bled/flushed out, and the wet boiling point isn't as big of a concern. I used that stuff on my formula car and it was great, but I wouldn't use it on a street car.

I just did a complete flush and my 1.5 year old SRF was just about the same color as the new stuff! So knowing when to stop is kind of an issue for me. I wish ATE still made the blue fluid.

 

[Plainrt]

Good info. Also don’t wait to
Do it till right before event. Just Incase get air in system or something else goes not so right

 

[koozy]

To do it right you also need to bleed the emergency brake lines. Why half ass. Power bleeders won’t do that. If you read the post on the link provided, the how to exist there or read the service manual.


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[SonicDeathmonkey]

To do it right you also need to bleed the emergency brake lines.

What emergency brake lines? Do we not have a mechanical e-brake? Ie the cable pulls the lever at each caliper which extends the piston? I’m not aware of any additional lines for the e-brake. What am I missing? I’m not suggesting anything should be done half-assed, TY very much.

 

[koozy]

What emergency brake lines? Do we not have a mechanical e-brake? Ie the cable pulls the lever at each caliper which extends the piston? I’m not aware of any additional lines for the e-brake. What am I missing? I’m not suggesting anything should be done half-assed, TY very much.

Correct. I misspoke about the lines. Here's the instructions lifted from the service manual with regards to the ebrakes.

NOTE: Due to the complexity of the fluid path within the rear integral parking brake calipers, it is necessary to apply and release the parking brake during the bleed procedure.

• Remove the RH rear bleeder cap and place a box-end wrench on the bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the RH rear bleeder screw and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean, specified brake fluid.
• Loosen the RH rear bleeder screw. Leave open until clear, bubble-free brake fluid flows, then tighten the RH rear bleeder screw.
• For vehicles with rear integral parking brake calipers, apply and release the parking brake 5 times. Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.

 

[SonicDeathmonkey]

• For vehicles with rear integral parking brake calipers, apply and release the parking brake 5 times. Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.

Good stuff. I’ll have to do this before I start my usual routine with the Power Bleeder next time.

 

[drewcrolwey]

Thanks for the advice everyone! Track day is not until May 20th so have time to put some miles on and make sure everything is good before sending it on track.

 

[maestromaestro]

Thanks for the advice everyone! Track day is not until May 20th so have time to put some miles on and make sure everything is good before sending it on track.

A word of caution - track effects on the car are much more profound than the street. Things may not manifest until you are attempting to brake from 80 to 20 mph to go from a straight into a hairpin... Ask me - no, don't - how I know. [emoji849]

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[SonicDeathmonkey]

A word of caution - track effects on the car are much more profound than the street. Things may not manifest until you are attempting to brake from 80 to 20 mph to go from a straight into a hairpin...

Seriously. I thought my new brake setup was good to go until I got out on track at Laguna Seca this past weekend.

OP: Just take the first lap or two to warm everything up and take your time to increase your pace. I expect you'll be doing that anyway since it's your first time.

 

[drewcrolwey]

Seriously. I thought my new brake setup was good to go until I got out on track at Laguna Seca this past weekend.

OP: Just take the first lap or two to warm everything up and take your time to increase your pace. I expect you'll be doing that anyway since it's your first time.

Good to know gents thanks!

 

[DoomsdayMelody]

Three words: Motive Power Bleeder! This makes it so easy and, for me, it's vastly superior to the vacuum pump method: https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/import-power-bleeder-kits As long as you have fluid in the Power Bleeder's reservoir you don't have to worry about running the car's reservoir dry. Just make sure you get the kit with the right adapter for the FiST's cap. I don't recall which one it is ATM.

I would also recommend Castrol SRF. It's pricey but the wet boiling point is way up there so you don't have to worry about flushing it quite as much as you would something like RBF600. I'm pretty sure that RBF was originally made for track use only where old fluid is constantly being bled/flushed out, and the wet boiling point isn't as big of a concern. I used that stuff on my formula car and it was great, but I wouldn't use it on a street car.

I just did a complete flush and my 1.5 year old SRF was just about the same color as the new stuff! So knowing when to stop is kind of an issue for me. I wish ATE still made the blue fluid.

Look at mr fancy pants here.

I’ve done a gravity bleed every time I do brakes on my car. [emoji23]


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[DEss]

Three words: Motive Power Bleeder! This makes it so easy and, for me, it's vastly superior to the vacuum pump method: https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/import-power-bleeder-kits As long as you have fluid in the Power Bleeder's reservoir you don't have to worry about running the car's reservoir dry. Just make sure you get the kit with the right adapter for the FiST's cap. I don't recall which one it is ATM.

Would it be possible for you to check which adapter you have that works for the Fiesta? The motiveproducts application guide is awful.




Thanks,
DEss

 

[sonicmn]

I use the Motive 1118 adapter with the thick rubber washer. you are right the guide is a mess, they recommend the 1118 over the plastic one for the Fords (i have both)

make sure you pump the system up to ~15 PSI and let sit for 10 min without fluid in the bottle, this is to make sure the cap isn't leaking (1-2 psi in that time is fine) if it is leaking try again. if you pump up the system with fluid and it is leaking, it will fill the fluid reservoir with brake fluid and it is a mess when you take it apart as fluid will go everywhere.

This process seems to work well for me, i change fluid before each track event. I usually go once in the spring and once in the fall.

 

[SonicDeathmonkey]

Would it be possible for you to check which adapter you have that works for the Fiesta? The motiveproducts application guide is awful.

I will check tonight.

 

[maestromaestro]

I have both types of adapters; the one that works better is the metal one (anodized reddish color) with the thick gasket. I believe it is the 1118. But- it's not the best of fits, and it's annoying.

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[SonicDeathmonkey]

I have both types of adapters; the one that works better is the metal one (anodized reddish color) with the thick gasket. I believe it is the 1118. But- it's not the best of fits, and it's annoying.

I'm not sure about the model number but that sounds like the one that I have. It is a VERY tight fit with that thick gasket so you have to be careful when screwing it on/off. Gets the job done when it's on there though.

 

[maestromaestro]

I'm not sure about the model number but that sounds like the one that I have. It is a VERY tight fit with that thick gasket so you have to be careful when screwing it on/off. Gets the job done when it's on there though.

That's the problem. The thin gasket is too thin, and the thick is too thick. Goldilocks is upset.

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