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DIY Rear Camber Plates???

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#1
Has any anyone created a file/template for their own rear camber plate which mount behind the wheel hub? Looks like an Italian vendor (DNA) came up with a set and looks fairly easy to have someone make if you got the design files and life stateside.
 


Woods247

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#2
Has any anyone created a file/template for their own rear camber plate which mount behind the wheel hub? Looks like an Italian vendor (DNA) came up with a set and looks fairly easy to have someone make if you got the design files and life stateside.
I haven’t found any. Please let us know if you do.
 


D1JL

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#7
Those would be pretty easy to fabricate. its just sheetmetal or stamped steel.
The hard part is the fact is that it is a wedge.
The bottom needs to be about 0.030" thicker than the top.
That is very difficult to do.



BTW: 0.030" will give you about 1° negative, great for street use without too much tire ware.

Dave
 


Dpro

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#8
The hard part is the fact is that it is a wedge.
The bottom needs to be about 0.030" thicker than the top.
That is very difficult to do.



BTW: 0.030" will give you about 1° negative, great for street use without too much tire ware.

Dave
Ya but we live in area full of ex amd current aerospace machine shops. I know for a fact I could get something like that waterjetted or cnc’d if I felt the market was large enough.
 


D1JL

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#9
Ya but we live in area full of ex amd current aerospace machine shops. I know for a fact I could get something like that waterjetted or cnc’d if I felt the market was large enough.
You may be correct however, the cost puts the part at about $150.00 per set.
In addition they are illegal in sanctioned racing events.
I looked into this years ago when I made my set.
Water Jet and CNC prices have gone up since then.
You are better off just buying the ones listed above while they are still available.

Good luck.


Dave
 


Woods247

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#10
Ya but we live in area full of ex amd current aerospace machine shops. I know for a fact I could get something like that waterjetted or cnc’d if I felt the market was large enough.
You build and I’ll test it. The shims I used f’d up the ABS sensors so I had to remove them. I have washers pushing out the bottom of the hubs now. It’s ghetto but it works. I’d rather have a proper plate like this though. What’s the number that makes this worth your time?
 


D1JL

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#11
You build and I’ll test it. The shims I used f’d up the ABS sensors so I had to remove them. I have washers pushing out the bottom of the hubs now. It’s ghetto but it works. I’d rather have a proper plate like this though. What’s the number that makes this worth your time?
That too is part of the problem.
I want through a few sets until I got them correct and the ABS wheel sensor worked and the whole thing was a Plug-N-Play.

This is why making the wedge is critical and very expensive to do.
I am not even sure that the above mentioned set works with the ABS sensor as it was originally designed for racing purposes.

I did come up with a way to make the part but the cost of making the tool fixture also required the selling of a large quantity of them.
Now that the FiST has been discontinued, it is not worth it.



Dave
 


koozy

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#12
Why not just buy the DNA set, it’s roughly $125 shipped. Worth the time in trying to DIY.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


D1JL

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#13
Why not just buy the DNA set, it’s roughly $125 shipped. Worth the time in trying to DIY.


That's what I said.
From the experience of making mine, it is not worth making them yourself.



Dave
 


OP
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Thread Starter #14
That's what I said.
From the experience of making mine, it is not worth making them yourself.



Dave
Dave,

I’m with you. Buy the DNA set. Also, I’m observing what else is going on in your photo.... end link? Care to share more photos of your rear suspension set up? I’m liking what I see!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


D1JL

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#15
Dave,

I’m with you. Buy the DNA set. Also, I’m observing what else is going on in your photo.... end link? Care to share more photos of your rear suspension set up? I’m liking what I see!

Not to hijack this thread, please check out my mod photos, then we can discuss things on my build page.
Links, below.

Dave
 


Dpro

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#16
You may be correct however, the cost puts the part at about $150.00 per set.
In addition they are illegal in sanctioned racing events.
I looked into this years ago when I made my set.
Water Jet and CNC prices have gone up since then.
You are better off just buying the ones listed above while they are still available.

Good luck.


Dave
Who were you talking too? Lol I can make a call to my cnc guy tomorrow . Get me the dimensions of yours . I was doing runs of heat shields for engine mounts and for $160 I could probably get multiples .
 


jeffreylyon

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#17
Who were you talking too? Lol I can make a call to my cnc guy tomorrow . Get me the dimensions of yours . I was doing runs of heat shields for engine mounts and for $160 I could probably get multiples .
It's not a flat piece of stock, it's milled or ground at a ~ 1º angle and is quite thin to avoid too much offset. If your guy is willing to cut more than 1 for $160 then I'd like his number - I'll send all sorts of work his way.
 


Dpro

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#18
It's not a flat piece of stock, it's milled or ground at a ~ 1º angle and is quite thin to avoid too much offset. If your guy is willing to cut more than 1 for $160 then I'd like his number - I'll send all sorts of work his way.
Indeed its ground. I was having a discussion about it last night with a machinest friend.
 


kivnul

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#19
In for updates. Anyone have details on how this screws with the ABS? I am not familiar with how that works.
 


Woods247

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#20
In for updates. Anyone have details on how this screws with the ABS? I am not familiar with how that works.
I haven’t used these but I’ve used adjustable shims. They moved the ABS sensor too far away from the tone ring so you have to fab brackets to try to slide the sensor closer. We couldn’t get it to work correctly and I ended up frying a sensor by pushing it too close to the tone ring. They’re cheap, but the car will limp on track with damaged sensors. At least my 14 did..
 




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