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Shims for the Brake Rotors -

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Andover
#1
Has anyone used Shims to fix run out issues with front disks? i have all new Motor-craft Disks and the run out is 6 thousands. I even tried swapping the location relative to wheel bolts with no major change.
In my experience if there is this much run out its only a matter of time when you get vibration during braking.

I have seen where folks use shims to fix this. Does anyone have experience doing this? I would imagine they would have to be specific for the Fiesta.
 


dmb

Active member
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#4
$20 each to machine at the local brake shop. i paid $89 for new ones with fancy holes and slots to make me look cool [i hope]
 


jmrtsus

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#5
.006 of an inch is one and one half of a human hair thickness. So Ford and the most of the world don't really care about a hair and a half.
 


Ford ST

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#7
No I do not measure the runout of a new rotor I put it on the car.

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OP
V
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Thread Starter #8
In my experience when i have runout with new rotors i get brake pedal vibrations about 2-3K miles down the road. I think what is happening is that the constant rubbing on the brake pad material deposits a layer on the disk that gets worse and worse. The vibration is the end result. With other cars i have solved this by using shims. Machining the rotors is not a solution unless you use one of those machines that do it with the rotor on the car.
 


alexrex20

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#9
Stand on the brakes a few times and drive it like an asshole and you won't get pad deposits on your rotors. Also, don't use cheap organic low-friction pads.
 


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Location
Rochester
#10
brakes are so cheap for these cars. bed your pads in and lean on them now and then and you'll be fine. if you're getting troubles with brakes on the street after a couple thousand miles you're probably using white box garbage rotors. I always use high-carbon solid rotors (typically centric who also make stoptech) because it's never worth the money you save to go cheap.
 


koozy

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#12
IMO you’re worrying about something that hasn’t happened yet on this platform by experiences from another. From a technical standpoint the logic may make sense, but If ain’t broke don’t fix it.


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OP
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Location
Andover
Thread Starter #13
It may not be happening to others that post but it is to me. This is my 3rd brake job and the fisrt 2 have resulted in the same thing (vibration in pedal 3K after all new ford parts). I am trying to find shims that will fit this car. to bring it back into specification. I hate it when brand new factory parts are not making their published runout specification. But then again this is a Ford...
 


alexrex20

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#14
It's not the parts, it's your driving style. Everybody else uses the same parts as you and doesn't have this problem.
 


Ford ST

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#15
Why don't you try a different brand of rotor if you're so unhappy.

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jmrtsus

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#16
If this was a "Ford" problem others should be having the same issues......Ford parts are not your problem as they work well for others and you say you have changed them prior. I have not seen one post that says anyone else is having this problem. I am a numbers kind of guy and the odds of you getting three defective NIB rotors is slim to none. Not impossible but we have no complaints of just a single one being defective much less three from the same buyer. This car has sold about what now?....... 20-25K in the USA alone. No TSB's that I have seen nor other posters having the same problem again that I have seen. If your car is out of warranty I would take it to an independent shop specializing in brakes to find out what is happening I would be looking elsewhere for the cause of your problems.
 


dmb

Active member
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Location
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#17
In my experience when i have runout with new rotors i get brake pedal vibrations about 2-3K miles down the road. I think what is happening is that the constant rubbing on the brake pad material deposits a layer on the disk that gets worse and worse. The vibration is the end result. With other cars i have solved this by using shims. Machining the rotors is not a solution unless you use one of those machines that do it with the rotor on the car.
It looks like you answered your own question.
 


Intuit

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#18
Sometimes you get corrosion between the hub and rotor, wheels and rotor. This needs to be removed prior to reassembly. I'm in the rust belt and will apply a little anti-seize between the wheel and rotor. It's been awhile since I've done brakes so don't recall, but probably did the same thing between the rotor and hub.
 


OP
V
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Andover
Thread Starter #20
I will be using this to clean hub and area around studs (studs slide in). You know the issue may be with my hub. I will check it’s runnout as well. B61DEEC3-1B2D-4341-8BE4-7ED619D78AC7.jpg B61DEEC3-1B2D-4341-8BE4-7ED619D78AC7.jpg
 


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