Pineapple slice review (Powerflex pass side motor mount insert)

[Bonesaw]

My Powerflex pineapple slice (yellow/street) from Whoosh came in and installed it last night. The whole job took just under 30 min. Here is my order of operations for this install:

1. Jack passenger side up and place jackstand.

2. Remove passenger side headlight (2 screws, 1 plug)

3. Disconnect top coolant hose connection from coolant reservoir

4. Pop out reservoir and drape it over in space where headlight was

5. place floor jack with wood block under engine and jack just enough to support engine

6. Remove mount- 3 bolts bottom/ 3 nuts on top

7. Work new insert into the mount, grooved side down. The insert is thick enough to fill in the gap between the stock black rubber and the base of the mount. This is a very snug fit! This
was the hardest part- working the insert into the mount, but not that hard. I used a screwdriver to pry here and there. I used a little white lithium grease I had to help it slide into place and prevent creaks.
Note the hole in the middle is semi-rectangle shaped and can fit only a certain way. If the split ends come together once inserted then it is right (will be obvious). Place zip tie around new insert.

8. Install mount back into car, coolant reservoir and top hose, and headlight.

9. Drop car, slam hood- enjoy!

Impressions:

Fired the car up and instantly noticed really slight vibes, but not in a bad or distracting way... a good way imo. After driving around and testing it last night and on this morning's work commute I am impressed! I really like the feel this mount gives. The car feels tighter and more communicative all around, especially when shifting. Just like when a RMM is added- this insert gave the same feel- as much if not more. The car feels like it responds that much sooner on throttle imputs and my shifting feels more solid and firm. I really noticed it when I got on it hard coming out of a turn and the shifting felt noticeably better... agressive and firm/tight. More instantaneous feel or jolt. I have never driven a car with solid mounts, but to borrow someone else's word, the engine/trans feels almost "hardwired" to the pedals, steering wheel and shifter(faster/firm response, not NVH) Makes me think the TTR mounts would be amazing, but I know I could not deal with that much NVH. I really like the feel this insert is providing and for only $36 shipped this thing makes a BIG improvement in driving feel.

For reference I can not comment on probably the greatest feature/gain of this insert- the reduction of wheel hop and torque steer. I recently installed a Pierce 6 point brace and that alone removed all wheel hop and torque steer. So if you don't have lower bracing then this insert should make a much greater difference by massively reducing wheel hop and torque steer as reported by others.

Pros: Price!

Easy install - less than 30 min

Cons: If very sensitive to NVH (subjective)- very small vibes

https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...ront-upper-engine-mount-insert-street-or-race

 

[ron@whoosh]

My Powerflex pineapple slice (yellow/street) from Whoosh came in and installed it last night. The whole job took just under 30 min. Here is my order of operations for this install:

1. Jack passenger side up and place jackstand.

2. Remove passenger side headlight (2 screws, 1 plug)

3. Disconnect top coolant hose connection from coolant reservoir

4. Pop out reservoir and drap it over in space where headlight was

5. place floor jack with wood block under engine and jack just enough to support engine

6. Remove mount- 3 bolts bottom/ 3 nuts on top

7. Work new insert into the mount, grooved side down. The insert is thick enough to fill in the gap between the stock black rubber and the base of the mount. This is a very snug fit! This
was the hardest part- working the insert into the mount, but not that hard. I used a screwdriver to pry here and there. I used a little white lithium grease I had to help it slide into place and prevent creaks.
Note the hole in the middle is semi-rectangle shaped and can fit only a certain way. If the split ends come together once inserted then it is right (will be obvious). Place zip tie around new insert.

8. Install mount back into car, coolant reservoir and top hose, and headlight.

9. Drop car, slam hood- enjoy!

Impressions:

Fired the car up and instantly noticed really slight vibes, but not in a bad or distracting way... a good way imo. After driving around and testing it last night and on this morning's work commute I am impressed! I really like the feel this mount gives. The car feels tighter and more communicative all around, especially when shifting. Just like when a RMM is added- this insert gave the same feel- as much if not more. The car feels like it responds that much sooner on throttle imputs and my shifting feels more solid and firm. I really noticed it when I got on it hard coming out of a turn and the shifting felt noticeably better... agressive and firm/tight. More instantaneous feel or jolt. I have never driven a car with solid mounts, but to borrow someone else's word, the engine/trans feels almost "hardwired" to the pedals, steering wheel and shifter(faster/firm response, not NVH) Makes me think the TTR mounts would be amazing, but I know I could not deal with that much NVH. I really like the feel this insert is providing and for only $36 shipped this thing makes a BIG improvement in driving feel.

For reference I can not comment on probably the greatest feature/gain of this insert- the reduction of wheel hop and torque steer. I recently installed a Pierce 6 point brace and that alone removed all wheel hop and torque steer. So if you don't have lower bracing then this insert should make a much greater difference by massively reducing wheel hop and torque steer as reported by others.

Pros: Price!

Easy install - less than 30 min

Cons: If very sensitive to NVH (subjective)- very small vibes

https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...ront-upper-engine-mount-insert-street-or-race

great review

 

[danbfree]

If you have a '16+, they have rubber instead of hard plastic lines and can definitely skip step 3, it will drape over into the passenger headlight space without disconnecting anything and for Step 7, if you pull the mount out completely then you can just add it right in, the hard part is splitting the mount apart once out, a vice helps here tremendously... maybe your instructions are how to do it if you don't have a vice available? And definitely agree on using an actual zip tie, the included rubber ring is 100% worthless to even hold it closed fully to tighten back down. For those out there who do this, get a pack of thin zip ties from Harbor Freight or wherever before.

That said, I replied to you on your FB post too, (aaaand now you've replied there too) I still feel you really should do the upgraded bolt at the same time, with so much less "give" in there the stock one can break, and also the trans/drivers side should be done at as well to help with torque steer, even adding a traction bar later it still pulls really bad like it feel like one side is buttoned down and the other floppy...

 

[koozy]

Step 3 can not be skipped by everyone.

The suggestion is simple ignorance to the fact that some have hard coolant lines to the reservoir with limited movement.

There's a high risk of cracking it, not removing it.

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[theblue]

perfect timing. mine should be arriving from woosh anytime now.

 

[Dpro]

Cool review ya mine is going in shortly.

 

[LilPartyBox]

you just convinced me to do this. I might do the tranny side as well. cheap mods and tangible results are hard to resist

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[Ford ST]

Definitely can skip step 3, it will drape over into the passenger headlight space without disconnecting anything and for Step 7, if you pull the mount out completely then you can just add it right in, the hard part is splitting the mount apart once out, a vice helps here tremendously... maybe your instructions are how to do it if you don't have a vice available? And definitely agree on using an actual zip tie, the included rubber ring is 100% worthless to even hold it closed fully to tighten back down. For those out there who do this, get a pack of thin zip ties from Harbor Freight or wherever before.

That said, I replied to you on your FB post too, (aaaand now you've replied there too) I still feel you really should do the upgraded bolt at the same time, with so much less "give" in there the stock one can break, and also the trans/drivers side should be done at as well to help with torque steer, even adding a traction bar later it still pulls really bad like it feel like one side is buttoned down and the other floppy...

I'm still waiting about your nonsense over this insert. He has a 6 point brace maybe you didn't read that torque steer has already been solved. I'm not trying to be rude but you can't give advise when you are so damn sure that this was a replacement no insert because you didn't like the vibrations.

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[danbfree]

I'm still waiting about your nonsense over this insert. He has a 6 point brace maybe you didn't read that torque steer has already been solved. I'm not trying to be rude but you can't give advise when you are so damn sure that this was a replacement no insert because you didn't like the vibrations.

Well, you've been plenty rude in the past and again now, so I'll take the liberty to speak freely... If you can't even comprehend that I'm having a discussion, with him, for the benefit of other people considering or installing this, how do you expect me to explain the simple, elementary level of basic science involved in sandwiching one or 2 objects that you can understand? Are you really that dense to accept the basic fact that if I have bushing A, that is for discussion purposes, say 10mm thick and then Bushing B, that is 15mm thick and more durable, that you could always just use bushing B instead of using both if you don't want it too tight? What kind of rocket engineer science are you using to dispute this basic concept that I'm unaware of? ESPECIALLY when PowerFlex themselves uses wording that CLEARLY could be interpreted it can be used as either an insert or replacement. We have already gone through this before and you refused to offer any kind of explanation then, despite directly and clearly asking you, you just ignored me so I dropped it and haven't brought it up again... Go back and read those posts if you want, I clearly asked you to explain yourself but you ignored me... but here we are, Mr. Genius here who *can't even answer basic questions* jumps in and tries to start up with this again... it's like when a clearly "special" kid from the short bus tries to insult you after you've already tried to explain a basic concept to them and they can't process it, so they just get all frustrated and keep insulting instead whenever the subject comes up again down the line... How am I supposed to respond?

 

[Ford ST]

Well, you've been plenty rude in the past and again now, so I'll take the liberty to speak freely... If you can't even comprehend that I'm having a discussion, with him, for the benefit of other people considering or installing this, how do you expect me to explain the simple, elementary level of basic science involved in sandwiching one or 2 objects that you can understand? Are you really that dense to accept the basic fact that if I have bushing A, that is for discussion purposes, say 10mm thick and then Bushing B, that is 15mm thick and more durable, that you could always just use bushing B instead of using both if you don't want it too tight? What kind of rocket engineer science are you using to dispute this basic concept that I'm unaware of? ESPECIALLY when PowerFlex themselves uses wording that CLEARLY could be interpreted it can be used as either an insert or replacement. We have already gone through this before and you refused to offer any kind of explanation then, despite directly and clearly asking you, you just ignored me so I dropped it and haven't brought it up again... Go back and read those posts if you want, I clearly asked you to explain yourself but you ignored me... but here we are, Mr. Genius here who *can't even answer basic questions* jumps in and tries to start up with this again... it's like when a clearly "special" kid from the short bus tries to insult you after you've already tried to explain a basic concept to them and they can't process it, so they just get all frustrated and keep insulting instead whenever the subject comes up again down the line... How am I supposed to respond?

Coming from a guy that needs a friend to put on a two point brace. You clearly said you were going to email powerflex and ask them the question did you no? Someone clearly has a short fuse just like your incident over the reverse camera and backing up. Just trying to protect people from poor information. Thank God I'm not on Facebook.

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[danbfree]

Need a friend? I did it myself, nice reach there guy, because it's so important to be macho and cool to do just do everything yourself and not worth worry about screwing up your car, right? So, Powerflex themselves, their own product manager, couldn't even give me a straight answer, literally, had no clue it opinion either way...so that tells me the basic fact that a simple circular bushing that is bigger and stronger than the original doesn't HAVE to be added in and could be used alone... but I already decided it's not worth trying to argue about it anymore if people can't have a civil discussion without immediately being made to be an idiot over something so spectacularly unimportant... I think it's best for both of us as far as our status on this forum, that you cease with your unfounded harassment and we just ignore each other if we have nothing positive to say... Besides, this forum is dying because most everyone uses the FB groups now anyway, so whatever, I'm always going to just try to help but also question things and that should never be cause for belittling and name calling when it's just to have open discussion.

 

[danbfree]

Step 3 can not be skipped by everyone.

The suggestion is simple ignorance to the fact that some have hard coolant lines to the reservoir with limited movement.

There's a high risk of cracking it, not removing it.

If you have a '14-'15, thats true, I updated my post... But doesn't that get replaced to rubber as part of the cooling recall too?

 

[Ford ST]

You seem like a blast when people don't agree you just explode. I could careless about Facebook will never ever have one. We have some wonderful knowledgeable people here that are going to stay so it's all good.

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[koozy]

If you have a '14-'15, thats true, I updated my post... But doesn't that get replaced to rubber as part of the cooling recall too?

It does because they use a new reservoir, if one has the recall done.

I believe the replacement line is rubber, if it is then yes no need to remove, one can flip the bottle over.


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[danbfree]

You seem like a blast when people don't agree you just explode. I could careless about Facebook will never ever have one. We have some wonderful knowledgeable people here that are going to stay so it's all good.

Funny, because it was YOU who pretty much flat out called me stupid for me even bringing up, for conversation purposes, the possibilities of treating the insert as a straight replacement when there is quite a bit of description from the manufacturer themselves that it could be done either way. With no facts or proof to counter the common-sense points I made, I only "explode" on (I.E. Not afraid to call out) arrogant dicks who have no facts implying I'm 100% wrong, period, and stupid for even bringing it up. I have NEVER had a problem with people who correct me or offer their reasons for disagreeing, it's how I learn and base what I say on facts or at LEAST an opinion that is established with the vast majority of owners and tuners... Anyway, since I couldn't get a clear answer from even the manufacturer, we are just going to have to agree to disagree on that specific thing. I'm not going to tell people that flat out they should do it if they want less vibes, but it's worth talking about if someone ever is looking to try something different, couldn't hurt to try it knowing you might have to add the stock rubber back in also. Let's move on dude.

 

[Ford ST]

I did move on that's why I didn't quote your post I also don't use caps because I don't like to yell at people, because I'm actually about the nicest guy there is.

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[danbfree]

I did move on that's why I didn't quote your post I also don't use caps because I don't like to yell at people, because I'm actually about the nicest guy there is.

OCCASIONAL caps just means emphasis... like excessive use of "..." is not proper grammar but is an easy way to show a slight pause. I'll start using Italicsor bold more often instead

I'm sorry if I got defensive, but that's how I am when it was clear you implied I was 100% wrong and dumb for even bringing up that discussion, when there was no facts either way, still isn't... I'm also a genuine nice guy IRL, we all learn to adjust our online etiquette on the fly sometimes to make sure we make our points in a respectful manner, including on sometimes just knowing when to specifically agree to disagree and move on. I learned a bit about that from that conversation actually and I hope we can just agree to leave it at that man.

 

[Bonesaw]

If you have a '16+, they have rubber instead of hard plastic lines and can definitely skip step 3, it will drape over into the passenger headlight space without disconnecting anything and for Step 7, if you pull the mount out completely then you can just add it right in, the hard part is splitting the mount apart once out, a vice helps here tremendously... maybe your instructions are how to do it if you don't have a vice available? And definitely agree on using an actual zip tie, the included rubber ring is 100% worthless to even hold it closed fully to tighten back down. For those out there who do this, get a pack of thin zip ties from Harbor Freight or wherever before.

That said, I replied to you on your FB post too, (aaaand now you've replied there too) I still feel you really should do the upgraded bolt at the same time, with so much less "give" in there the stock one can break, and also the trans/drivers side should be done at as well to help with torque steer, even adding a traction bar later it still pulls really bad like it feel like one side is buttoned down and the other floppy...

Yes- if you have a vise that would be very helpful for holding the mount steady when manuvering the insert into place. I'll take a fail on this since every garage on the planet is supposed to have a vise- garage 101! I'll have to put that on my short list of things to do

 

[danbfree]

Yes- if you have a vise that would be very helpful for holding the mount steady when manuvering the insert into place. I'll take a fail on this since every garage on the planet is supposed to have a vise- garage 101! I'll have to put that on my short list of things to do

Heh, I was lucky I did it at my buddy's who has a fully stocked garage full of tools and all that, it's good to have instructions for those without a vice, which I would have faced if I did it at home.

 

[theblue]

in a pinch a C clamp is a vise for the poor.