Pierce 6 point brace REVIEW!

[theblue]

I installed mine along with whiteline springs last night. I had to remove the rear diagonal factory braces that go from the front subframe to the unibody because one of the rear bolts would not go in with it there. I figure those are not really needed with this anymore. One of the middle bolts felt a little sketchy going in like it might be crossthreaded, but it wasn't, just really really tight.

the rear flexbeam was a real paint to get the bolts started and aligned, but I got it in the end.

The whole car feels super transformed in terms of stability and traction. I am getting rubbing up front on the fender liners on big compressions, but I'm also running tires a little too tall. I might try to fix this with camber.

 

[jeff]

I reused to those rear diagonal factory braces and installed them on top of the six point brace for extra stability, it can be done!

 

[alexrex20]

Those factory braces need to come off to install the 6pt. The 6pt basically replaces them and then some.

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[theblue]

I can't imagine they add anything once you have the 6 point installed.

 

[vixenlotus]

So with an air impact wrench the bolts come right out? that's my big fear I have heard the bolts can be a bitch to take out.

So just take the 6 bolts out, line up the brace and put them back in? that's it?

 

[Bonesaw]

Yeah, I ditched the thin little factory braces since the Pierce brace is prob like 600x stronger LOL. It cages the whole front suspension to the body.

 

[theblue]

removing with air was cake for me. remove all the bolts. get all of them back in with the brace loosely first, then tighten them up. done.

 

[jeff]

I would clean the bolts once out, use air to blow out the hole, and install them very carefully by and until power is needed to fully sink them. You don't want to cross-thread them.

Contrary to other statements, the diagonal braces will fit with the 6 point, I had to hammer the U-shape out a bit to fit it but it does fit just fine, in my opinion the more bracing the better, to each his own.

 

[D1JL]

Just to be clear.
The front suspension on the FiST does not flex very much but it does flex.
The six main anchoring bolts used in conjunction with these braces are long.
Therefore the head end of these bolts do flex a little.

The 2 point brace is designed to tie the lower "A" bolts together, thereby adding support and preventing the bolts from flexing independently.
However the "A" bolts can still flex.
Upgrading to the 4 point brace now ties the front sub frame bolts together, reducing their flexing.
In addition, connecting to the 2 point brace, preventing almost all of the suspension flex.

The last piece of the puzzle is that the sub frame can still flex in relation to the body of the car.
This was the reason for the 6 point brace.
Now everything is locked together, so it is almost impossible to have any unwanted flex in the front suspension.

I hopes this helps you decide on what brace to use, if any.




Dave

 

[alexrex20]

So with an air impact wrench the bolts come right out? that's my big fear I have heard the bolts can be a bitch to take out.

So just take the 6 bolts out, line up the brace and put them back in? that's it?

That's it. I didn't use air tools.

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[TDavis]

Assuming the torque spec for the brace are the same as the workshop manual states?

 

[alexrex20]

I'd assume so. I did the control arm bolts to 120lb-ft. The other 4 i just torqued to gudentite.

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[theblue]

I did 4 ugga-duggas and called it good.

 

[KenST]

I was debating on picking up the whole race package. Now I think I’ll just get the 6point and call it a day.


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[theblue]

I was debating on picking up the whole race package. Now I think I’ll just get the 6point and call it a day.

I'd grab the rear flex beam one also then call it a day.

 

[Dpro]

D

I'd grab the rear flex beam one also then call it a day.

If his car is a 17 or 18 the likelihood of the rear being needed is small to none. As Ford put a larger front sway bar in the car and a stiffer rear torsion beam in the car comparision of the earlier years. This is due to them softening up the shock spring setup in response to complaints of a stiff ride stock on earlier models.
The stiffening of rear chassis components and larger front sway bar is one of the benefits of owning a 17-18.
A six point is literally all any 2017-2018 owner needs. IMO

They would be better off getting stiffer springs and shocks than spending the money on the rear torsion beam add on.

 

[theblue]

I have an 18 and just put the 6 point and rear on. I did springs at the same time so I can give a true review of just the rear bar, but handling is much better in the back now. Maybe I’ll take it off in the spring and see what it’s like without.

 

[alexrex20]

I have a '17 with the 6pt and the rear torsion brace. Great balance that favors oversteer. The rear torsion brace tidied it up up nicely, especially under heavy braking.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Meh----2point Brace is more than ample! got rear beam and reat trunk brace and the supposedly the most worthless the strut tower for the front! I gotta be different To go nowhere ...follow the crowd!

 

[Dpro]

Meh----2point Brace is more than ample!

This is a actually what several seasoned Pro’s have said as well. Its the reason I bought a 2 point. At this point if I go more it will most like be this
https://www.sico-developments.co.uk...front-lower-6-point-brace?variant=13571409860

To stiffen up the factory subframe bracing which seems minimal.